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Lets see your Balloon Tire Bikes

KilroyCD

One Too Many
Messages
1,966
Location
Lancaster County, PA
Lucky Strike said:
I love the lines of the American bicycles...curves!

Not mine, but my "grail" bicycle; the venerable Dursley-Pedersen:

DursleyPedersen.jpg


Seat arrangement on the hammock principle:

dp3.jpg


Here's a couple of links:

http://www.dursley-pedersen.net/

http://www.dursley-pedersen.co.uk/
Wow! That's a really interesting design, to say the least. Looking through the information on the links provided, it appears as though Pederson was too far ahead of his time. Those bikes weigh probably little more than a typical ballon tire bicycle's rear wheel (with coaster brake). It's also interesting to see that they are being reproduced, as some of the photos I saw showed some with modern derailleurs at the rear wheel. I know what it's like to have a "grail" bicycle, and I was fortunate enough to have gotten mine. Good luck with your quest!
 

KilroyCD

One Too Many
Messages
1,966
Location
Lancaster County, PA
jeep44 said:
Well, here's my Fleet-I never noticed the name on the chainguard before, as it is so faded. Mine is not nearly so nice as Airgrabber's, so I must get busy with chrome polish and rubbing compound. It will probably be a project for next winter,when I will haul it down to the basement and start work. Looks like I need to start looking for that front fender light,too.

fleet.jpg
I think the Fleet is the nicest looking of the middleweight Schwinns. The tank is perfectly proportioned for a middleweight bike, yet is a throwback to the days when heavyweight balloon tired bikes with tanks reigned supreme. As far as the fender light is concerned, I was able to find a very similar style light (but in chrome) through Memory Lane Classics: http://www.memorylane-classics.com . You may want to give them a try.
 

jeep44

One of the Regulars
Messages
252
Location
Detroit,Mi
KilroyCD said:
I think the Fleet is the nicest looking of the middleweight Schwinns. The tank is perfectly proportioned for a middleweight bike, yet is a throwback to the days when heavyweight balloon tired bikes with tanks reigned supreme. As far as the fender light is concerned, I was able to find a very similar style light (but in chrome) through Memory Lane Classics: http://www.memorylane-classics.com . You may want to give them a try.

Thanks. I notice they will be down at the Antique Motorcycle meet in Wauseon, Ohio in two weeks, so I'll see if I can find something there (always a lot of bike stuff there)
 

MPicciotto

Practically Family
Messages
771
Location
Eastern Shore, MD
Gee that guy in the leather jacket looks familiar...

KilroyCD said:
My 1942 Hawthorne "Litewate" (with basket) and my 1962 Hercules are in the background, posing with friends of mine.
IMAG0013.jpg

Since I don't have an avatar pic up yet. That's me in the cheaters and leather jacket.
Matt
 

Speedster

Practically Family
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876
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60 km west of København

Spudsnsalsa

New in Town
Messages
3
Location
Chicago-metro
Newbie with questions!

While digging through the mound of bicycle carcasses in my parent's garage (I'm one of nine so lots to choose from) I dug out this 24" Roadmaster. Was just looking for something this cash poor mom could turn into 'one of those cool cruisers' that my 11yo has been begging for...but now I'm conflicted! While surfing looking for a new seat and back wheel I'm discovering this world of vintage bicycle restoration. Can anyone tell me anything about the age or history of this bicycle? The only serial number I could find was J14449.
Silly me thought I'd just polish off the rust and spray paint it, add a new seat, rear wheel, and grips and gain a happy kid. Asking before I 'ruin' anything!
http://s348.photobucket.com/albums/q344/s_and_s_album/
 

KilroyCD

One Too Many
Messages
1,966
Location
Lancaster County, PA
Spudsnsalsa said:
While digging through the mound of bicycle carcasses in my parent's garage (I'm one of nine so lots to choose from) I dug out this 24" Roadmaster. Was just looking for something this cash poor mom could turn into 'one of those cool cruisers' that my 11yo has been begging for...but now I'm conflicted! While surfing looking for a new seat and back wheel I'm discovering this world of vintage bicycle restoration. Can anyone tell me anything about the age or history of this bicycle? The only serial number I could find was J14449.
Silly me thought I'd just polish off the rust and spray paint it, add a new seat, rear wheel, and grips and gain a happy kid. Asking before I 'ruin' anything!
http://s348.photobucket.com/albums/q344/s_and_s_album/
P1010037.jpg

Welcome to the Lounge! I've taken the liberty of posting one of the images of your bike.
I'm glad you're asking questions before undertaking any work on the bike. Too many times a vintage bike ends up with a coat of new paint, destroying any collector value. Your Roadmaster most probably dates from the mid 1960s. I don't have (and can't find) a serial number listing for Roadmaster bikes, so I can't pin it down to the exact year.
It's a middleweight bike, and middleweights are starting to become a bit more collectable as Baby Boomers are starting to appreciate and collect the things from their youth. Still, having said that, there isn't a lot of collector value in the bike. There's probably more sentimental value in it.
I've said before on this thread that a bike is only ever original once. If you want to retain the bike's originality and enhance the value, don't paint the bike. Polish and preserve the original paint as much as you can.
You might want to touch up deep scratches, however. I like to recommend Meguire's polishes to bring the paint up and a good carnauba wax to protect the finish.
The rear rim appears to be badly rusted. That could be a problem to polish out, but you'd need to use 000 steel wool and a lot of elbow grease. That goes for any of the rust on chrome surfaces. Tackle rusty chrome with 000 steel wool as opposed to a Scotchbrite pad. Scotchbrite pads will leave the finish a bit dull compared to steel wool.
It looks like your fenders, pedal crank, chainring (front sprocket) and handlebars should polish up nicley. If you can't get the fender braces to clean up nicley, paint them with a cadmium-look paint. The wheel hubs might need some extra attention, use steel wool again to try to clean these up.
All in all, except for the rear wheel, the bike looks like it's in pretty decent shape.
 

MPicciotto

Practically Family
Messages
771
Location
Eastern Shore, MD
You can also buy replacement handlebars, grips, pedals and seat to customize the bike without reducing it's value by setting aside the original parts in a box to return to the bike if so desired. A look on ebay for bicycle chopper items will provide you with all sorts of ideas for customizing that are "bolt-ons"

Matt
 

Spudsnsalsa

New in Town
Messages
3
Location
Chicago-metro
Thanks!...and more questions?

So far we took the bike apart down to the frame and are working on the pieces individually. The fenders, handlebars, handlebar neck, front rim, and chain sprocket have come back beautifully with the steel wool. My 11yo and I are very impressed with the 'simple' solution to what appeared overwhelming. I've started on the rear wheel but I'm worried about the integrity in a few spots. I'm liking the idea of setting that whole wheel aside in a box (along with the front light) and putting a new rear wheel on for my daughter's safety.
She loves the original colors so the idea of 'touching up' the deep cracks is great but any suggestions to a complete newbie on what paint to use and where one would find such paint? The chain guard has the biggest paint issues and any suggestions on how to paint that decorative piece at the top would be welcome!
Trying to keep this a 'do-it-yourself' project for financial reasons so I'm also open to the best way to clean some of the gunked-up grease on the chain? It's wrapped around the frame and I'm loath to break a link to get it off to soak...since I'm not sure I'd get the skill to repair the link to put it back together.
 

KilroyCD

One Too Many
Messages
1,966
Location
Lancaster County, PA
Regarding the rear wheel, check with a good independent bicycle store to see if they can source a new rear wheel with coaster brake. I say independent because many of the big chain bike shops mainly concentrate on the newest and high-tech bikes. I've had friends get blank stares when they went into such shops looking for parts for cruisers.
I've sourced brand new rear rims with Shimano coaster brake that are complete and ready for the tube and tire that have cost far lass than expected. The ones with a no-name brake are even less, but parts for the brake are not easy to find if needed. If you have difficulty finding a wheel, let me know and I'll see what I can do at this end.
Regarding the paint color, try going to an auto parts store to match the color. Take your chain guard along to try to match the color as closely as possible. Avoid getting a lacquer paint, as the bikes have enamel paint and applying a lacquer over enamel will result in something not very pretty. As far as painting the top of the chain guard is concerned, sand the rust down before painting, then mask off the areas you don't want paint spray on and apply your paint. I'm assuming that the paint will be in aerosol cans.
You can take the chain off without breaking a link. There will be a master link somewhere on the chain. The master link usually has a clip on the one side that, once removed, allows you to take that link off and remove the chain. De-gunk the chain in mineral spirits. To relube the chain, use a light oil or even WD-40 (which is actually fish oil for those who didn't know).
You mentioned that you are going to put the headlight aside as well. Was that not working or salvageable? If not, Memory Lane Classics in Grand Rapids, Ohio ( www.memorylane-classics.com ) will have a suitable light that is the right style and is only $5 (plus shipping). It's the "2 cell 60's style headlight", and there is a shorter version that only takes one battery. It's also $5. I hope this has been of some help.
-Chris
 

Luddite

One of the Regulars
Messages
118
Location
Central England
FAO Kilroy

I wonder if you've had any experience with lacquering over decals?

I'm reaching the end of a resto of a Schwinn Spitfire - it was a total wreck of a bike, bent forks, rust aplenty and scrap wheels. You have to take what you can get over this side of the pond! I've rebuilt it non-original based on a picture of a Hornet I rather like. I want to add decals, probably from Memory Lane, to finish it, but want to lacquer over the decals to fix them, and herein lies my question... do waterslide decals crumble under an application of standard auto rattle-can clear coat?
 

MPicciotto

Practically Family
Messages
771
Location
Eastern Shore, MD
Luddite,

With model trains laquer based dull-coats and gloss-coats from Testors are a 'standard' applied under and over waterslide decals. So I'd say yes it would not be a problem. BUT remember "Test First". Use a scrap piece of decal film and give it a try.

Matt
 

KilroyCD

One Too Many
Messages
1,966
Location
Lancaster County, PA
Luddite, I completely agree with Matt. He might be relatively new on the Lounge, but he's quite good when it comes to reviving and preserving original paint on bikes. I've seen some of his work.
I can also say that I've had no bad experiences with clear coating over modern waterslide decals, but as Matt said, it's always best to test first.
 

MPicciotto

Practically Family
Messages
771
Location
Eastern Shore, MD
You don't necessarily need a complete sacrificial decal. The decals are likely to have extra film surrounding the logo you want that for a good look you'd be trimming anyways. OR check a hobby shop clearance bin for a 99 cent pack to experiment with.

Matt
 

Spudsnsalsa

New in Town
Messages
3
Location
Chicago-metro
Tire sources?

Anyone with some suggestions to purchase 'hard to find' tires online? I'm now working on an old 20" Schwinn Breeze for another daughter and my local bike shop is telling me "that mold has been retired" and that they cannot order tires to fit this bike! They are 20 x 1 3/8 to fit S-5 or S-6 rims and if they are obsolete is there a way to see if any new wheels will fit this older frame? Thanks for all your help so far. The Roadmaster went on it's first roadtrip this morning....haven't addressed the frame paint yet but the mechanics are all in order.
 

MPicciotto

Practically Family
Messages
771
Location
Eastern Shore, MD
http://www.memorylane-classics.com/ appears to have some, I'd email and ask them. Also check some of the Schwinn sellers on eBay. Schwinn did use a proprietary rim type that "standard" tires are not compatible with. But so many people collect and deal in Schwinn's I'm confident you can find what your looking for.

Good luck.

Matt
 

MPicciotto

Practically Family
Messages
771
Location
Eastern Shore, MD
Luddite,

Another decal thought. You could order one additional decal of the sort you'd like to have on a coffee mug and then apply it to the mug and use that for your experimentation.

You could use a Victor mug like this one for a vintage look:
coffeemug.jpg


Worst case you have a mug, best case you have a CUSTOM mug. Either way it's your mug not mine ;)
Matt
 

KilroyCD

One Too Many
Messages
1,966
Location
Lancaster County, PA
Spudsnsalsa said:
Anyone with some suggestions to purchase 'hard to find' tires online? I'm now working on an old 20" Schwinn Breeze for another daughter and my local bike shop is telling me "that mold has been retired" and that they cannot order tires to fit this bike! They are 20 x 1 3/8 to fit S-5 or S-6 rims and if they are obsolete is there a way to see if any new wheels will fit this older frame? Thanks for all your help so far. The Roadmaster went on it's first roadtrip this morning....haven't addressed the frame paint yet but the mechanics are all in order.

Just to confirm what Matt said, Memory Lane Classics has the correct tire listed on their site. (Scroll down, it's near the bottom of the tire page before you get to the tubes.) The listing says they're for the S-5 or S-6 rim, so there should be no question as to compatibility. They are $10 each, which isn't bad either.
 

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