Lee 101Z 23 oz selvedge jeans

[St. Valentine]

I have soaked my Momotaros to remove the starch which made them quite stiff. Some people say the stiffness aides to the fading but as well to wearing through the fabric in these parts of the jeans. Some denims fabrics become much tighter after a soak which makes them more durable. I don´t go with the "never wash for the first month" method but handwash my jeans every two or three weeks or so. I use vinegar or a special detergent for dark clothes to prevent excessive bleeding.

 

[majormajor]

- my only dilemma with these is whether I should have size 34 waist or size 32. What I have is 34 but i can fit a fist into them and they measure out as a true size 36" - which makes me think I might be better off with 32s.

As I said - if you wash them they will shrink. As someone else said, they can then stretch back again. But that will only happen if they are now too tight, and the strain of wearing them stretches them out. If they shrink, and your waist size does put pressure on them, they will stay at the shrunken size.

I hope that makes sense :eeek:

 

[oldcrow82]

How about some pictures?

 

[MillersCrossing]

Yeah! Come on guys... pics pls!

How about some pictures?

 

[Dav]

My raw, unsanforized Iron Hearts have got the leg twist thing going on, more so in the left leg than the right, whereas my Sanforized ones don't have any sign of it. I read somewhere that leg twist on the left leg of raw denim was partly caused by the way they are sown together prior to the denim shrinking, IE the inside leg seam is sown in one go, up one side and down the other. At least I think that is what they were getting at.
Anyway here's a couple of pics of the aforementioned leg twisted jeans, doesn't bother me at all TBH!

 

[schitzo]

As I said - if you wash them they will shrink. As someone else said, they can then stretch back again. But that will only happen if they are now too tight, and the strain of wearing them stretches them out. If they shrink, and your waist size does put pressure on them, they will stay at the shrunken size.

I hope that makes sense :eeek:

I think I get you, you mean that if my waist size does NOT put pressure on them they'll stay the same, right?

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

Hey Dav those looks pretty effing amazing!

 

[schitzo]

How about some pictures?

Here's a pic to show you just how big the 34s are. The fit guide I was referred to says the 34s have a 36 waist. Granted they aren't easy to get an accurate measurement from, but as you can see in my pic these are bigger than that. My waist measures 35". So I am gonna buy the 32s this week and we'll see how they are. Hopefully they're somewhere between 34 and 35 - which should be bang on. But if they aren't I'll keep these 34s as I don't think they're excessively big, just a bit bigger than ideal. And like the Major says they'd probably shrink a bit with washing

When I get the 32s - hopefully this week - I'll post pics of me wearing both and the group can decide which are the keepers!

 

[schitzo]

My raw, unsanforized Iron Hearts have got the leg twist thing going on, more so in the left leg than the right, whereas my Sanforized ones don't have any sign of it.]

Dav those look great. Do you mind if I ask how long you've been wearing them for?

 

[Dav]

Hey Dav those looks pretty effing amazing!

Dav those look great. Do you mind if I ask how long you've been wearing them for?

Thanks, I've had them for around 18 months, so probably about 9 months wear.

 

[Graemsay]

My pair of Nudie in the Average Joe style. Worn for a couple of years, and chucked in the washing machine on a regular basis. No, I didn't keep track.

Not as impressive at Dav's Iron Hearts. I really need to get a pair of them sometime soon.

 

[majormajor]

I think I get you, you mean that if my waist size does NOT put pressure on them they'll stay the same, right?

Sorry, mate. Yes that's what I meant to say

 

[majormajor]

Not as impressive at Dav's Iron Hearts. I really need to get a pair of them sometime soon.

The ones that Dav put up are the UNsanforized denim. Completely different stuff to the sanforized - which is why they look SO cool.

Unfortunately, they are now pretty much impossible to buy

 

[Graemsay]

Selfedge have a few pairs of the unsanforised 634s left.

Rivet and Hide have unsanforised 21 oz jeans from Steel Feather. Unfortunately the leg measurements for that style are too small for me.

 

[majormajor]

Selfedge have a few pairs of the unsanforised 634s left.

Rivet and Hide have unsanforised 21 oz jeans from Steel Feather. Unfortunately the leg measurements for that style are too small for me.

Hey, thanks for that, Graemsay.

Unfortnately all the 634s (like everywhere else) have completely gone in regular sizes - only tiny or huge left. The Steel Feathers are a tapered cut, which I don't want

 

[Graemsay]

There are rumours that there might be a few pairs of the 634SR cut floating around, so you might be lucky.

Drop IH UK an email and see.

Alternatively, the Vulcan is in a 19 oz unsanforised denim.

 

[Graemsay]

Another suggestion for jeans is Tender. Aero currently carry them, but I'm not sure if this is going to continue. The 132 cut that they sell is relatively loose, the 130 is slimmer, and the 129 is much tighter.

William Kroll, who runs the company, is a mad genius. Take a look at the Tender thread on Superfuture where he posts as Rodeo Bill. He's branched out into all sorts of other products (via the Trestle Shop), so the later posts tend to be something of a tour of craft industries in the UK.

 

[Ishmael]

My raw, unsanforized Iron Hearts have got the leg twist thing going on, more so in the left leg than the right, whereas my Sanforized ones don't have any sign of it. I read somewhere that leg twist on the left leg of raw denim was partly caused by the way they are sown together prior to the denim shrinking, IE the inside leg seam is sown in one go, up one side and down the other. At least I think that is what they were getting at.
Anyway here's a couple of pics of the aforementioned leg twisted jeans, doesn't bother me at all TBH!

Just wanted to say thanks for this info. My Denime jeans have a very pronounced twist on the left leg. I always thought it was just that pair. Glad to hear this is pretty normal. Would prefer not to have it, but it's good to know that this issue isn't limited to Denime.

 

[trapp]

Not only is leg twist normal but some would be disappointed if their jeans didn't have or develop leg twist. I'm in that camp...I love it. It has nothing to do with being cheaply made. Most quality loomed denim will develop twist in the direction of the twill (left hand twills like Lee twist to the left, right hand twills like LVC and most other brands will twist to the right). Even my IH 634s twist a little to the right.

I'm wearing some Lee Japan 101z right now, though I can't figure out what model. I think they're a one-off sample pair as they have a bunch of great details (5-dips dyed, talon zip, 7 belt loops, half selvedge, hammered ufo rivets, etc.) but none match up with models I've seen online or elsewhere. I thrifted them NWOT for a coupla bucks. Oh, and they twist to the left

 

[schitzo]

Good to see you back on the boards again trapp, and with another one of your informative posts. As already pointed out these Lee 101z jeans are my first serious pair. The reason I went for them is that of all the modern throwaway denim I've owned to date the best performing pair are a pair of Lee jeans I happened upon. The funny thing about those was that after owning them for about a year I realised that the name of that particular model is the same as my own! Which was quite a coincidence as we are talking about one seriously irregular first name here. Anyway, the 32s will arrive tomorrow and I'm quite optimistic that they are gonna be the answer

All the best
Schitz