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In the 1800s, leather jackets saw use mainly as protective garments. They were worn by lumbermen and by dockworkers, but had not entered the realm of "fashion". Many period descriptions of them described them as cold and cumbersome and their tailoring as being of poor quality. For outerwear, wool was decidedly the norm. Early motorists favored cotton and linen for dust protection, and rubber garments against the wind and rain. Motorcyclists still predominantly wore tweed and whipcord. Although leather jackets like these gained favor with the automobile crowd, they were still specialized garments, not streetwear. The leather jacket wouldn't come into widespread popularity and acceptance until the 1920s.
The New York leather man in 1885. Though not typical, this is the sort of image of crudely made, patchwork leather garments the ads below conjure.
As the 20th century dawned, leather jackets started appearing more frequently on the market. Here are some early examples, from 1905. They were made by Oscar Henriques and Company, 21 Citygade, Copenhagen, Denmark, were made of kidskin leather, and were imported and sold by Sak's Fifth Avenue in New York City.
This plate describes reasons why the leather jacket had not caught on previously on the American market, describing American tanned leathers as "hard" and "stiff", and the quality of American leather tailoring as low grade. While some of this is almost certainly exaggeration for the sake of selling more of these Danish-made leather jackets, other sources confirm these descriptions.
Another plate, also disparaging the quality of the American leather jacket industry. The waist length double breasted styling is similar to what would become the "aviator" or "motorcycle" jacket by the 1930s.
Another short style which appears to be an ancestor of the modern motorcycle jacket. This was designed to be worn as a sleeved waistcoat, underneath other clothing. The high buttoning double breasted style (without sleeves), was known as a "Russian Vest"
The Russian Vest
The New York leather man in 1885. Though not typical, this is the sort of image of crudely made, patchwork leather garments the ads below conjure.
As the 20th century dawned, leather jackets started appearing more frequently on the market. Here are some early examples, from 1905. They were made by Oscar Henriques and Company, 21 Citygade, Copenhagen, Denmark, were made of kidskin leather, and were imported and sold by Sak's Fifth Avenue in New York City.
This plate describes reasons why the leather jacket had not caught on previously on the American market, describing American tanned leathers as "hard" and "stiff", and the quality of American leather tailoring as low grade. While some of this is almost certainly exaggeration for the sake of selling more of these Danish-made leather jackets, other sources confirm these descriptions.
Another plate, also disparaging the quality of the American leather jacket industry. The waist length double breasted styling is similar to what would become the "aviator" or "motorcycle" jacket by the 1930s.
Another short style which appears to be an ancestor of the modern motorcycle jacket. This was designed to be worn as a sleeved waistcoat, underneath other clothing. The high buttoning double breasted style (without sleeves), was known as a "Russian Vest"
The Russian Vest
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