Leather field jacket, some questions

[Goel]

Hello, been lurking for a little while and decided to post now that I'm planning on getting a nice leather jacket. This won't be my first leather jacket as I've owned 3 wilson's leather jackets of questionable quality but they've been invaluable in determining my fit and measurements needed.

So for my first decent leather jacket I've decided on a field jacket. One of my Wilson jackets is a field jacket of sorts and while I like the design it's pretty shoddy in terms of quality. After looking through various makers (and not finding many who even do field jackets) I've decided to give Johnson leathers a try as they've got a good selection of leathers and options. Specifically, they have an option for a removable liner as the proper M65s have, but many leathers do not. Unfortunately, they don't have many options for liners on hand. Right now they only have some thinsulate and a plaid wool, so I'm looking to provide the liner myself. Does anyone have any recommendations for any good places to get wool or alpaca fabric that would be appropriate for a liner? The first one that comes to mind is Pendleton woolen mills, they have a 24oz melton wool. Would that be too heavy for a liner? I know Filson's at least has 24oz mackinaw wool liner. Secondly, should the arms be lined in wool or thinsulate to make it easier to slip on and off? From other posts it looks like many line their jackets in something less likely to snag. Lastly, what leather would be a good option for this kind of jacket? Right now I'm heavily leaning towards a goat but they've also got some 2.75-3oz horween horse as well.

 

[crimsonofsam]

Welcome to the FL! Good to know that you've chosen Johnson Leathers for a custom jacket. You won't be disappointed.

 

[Guppy]

Hello, been lurking for a little while and decided to post now that I'm planning on getting a nice leather jacket. This won't be my first leather jacket as I've owned 3 wilson's leather jackets of questionable quality but they've been invaluable in determining my fit and measurements needed.

So for my first decent leather jacket I've decided on a field jacket. One of my Wilson jackets is a field jacket of sorts and while I like the design it's pretty shoddy in terms of quality. After looking through various makers (and not finding many who even do field jackets) I've decided to give Johnson leathers a try as they've got a good selection of leathers and options. Specifically, they have an option for a removable liner as the proper M65s have, but many leathers do not. Unfortunately, they don't have many options for liners on hand. Right now they only have some thinsulate and a plaid wool, so I'm looking to provide the liner myself. Does anyone have any recommendations for any good places to get wool or alpaca fabric that would be appropriate for a liner? The first one that comes to mind is Pendleton woolen mills, they have a 24oz melton wool. Would that be too heavy for a liner? I know Filson's at least has 24oz mackinaw wool liner. Secondly, should the arms be lined in wool or thinsulate to make it easier to slip on and off? From other posts it looks like many line their jackets in something less likely to snag. Lastly, what leather would be a good option for this kind of jacket? Right now I'm heavily leaning towards a goat but they've also got some 2.75-3oz horween horse as well.

I would go with the thinsulate from Johnson, personally. Unless they don't have it in a color that will work with your leather selection. Thinsulate is a modern material, but it's a very good one. It will help keep the weight and bulk down. I'd recommend it for a removable liner.

I'm interested in your project, as a leather m65 field jacket has been something I've wanted for literally decades, and I've yet to find one that I truly liked, and I've also been considering approaching Johnson to do a custom one for me. Definitely keep us posted.

 

[Edward]

Might be worth looking into a commercially available repop of the original M65 liner in the right size, then get them to build the jacket around that - I'm assuming here you mean the removable, Winter liner?

The only leather M65 I've ever seen is this one by Silvermans under their own GTH brand:

https://www.silvermans.co.uk/products/gth-leather-m65-jacket?variant=4194708355

Not my bag, so I've never checked out what the liner is, tbh. Their stuff is usually quite nice, if no Aero.

 

[Peacoat]

Edward has a good idea, if the liner can be found. It is quite substantial and gives good warmth, if somewhat bulky. Don't know what the repros are like, though. The thinsulate type lining used by Johnson is not that warm, unless they have changed it in the last 3 years.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Cockpit USA currently do an M65 in leather but it's lamb. Magnoli Clothiers do one in the leather of your choice - it's a copy of one worn by Robert De Niro in a 1980's movie. Many companies have done them.

Cooper Sportswear versions in goat show up on ebay pretty often. I was kind of interested in getting one too years ago but decided a black fabric one was fine. In building your own it could get very heavy which may limit its appeal as a wearable coat. Johnson will make a great one. I'm sure a range of bike leather makers do this style as a classic bike touring jacket as well. Vanson had/has a similar one minus the collar.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Hello, been lurking for a little while and decided to post now that I'm planning on getting a nice leather jacket. This won't be my first leather jacket as I've owned 3 wilson's leather jackets of questionable quality but they've been invaluable in determining my fit and measurements needed.

So for my first decent leather jacket I've decided on a field jacket. One of my Wilson jackets is a field jacket of sorts and while I like the design it's pretty shoddy in terms of quality. After looking through various makers (and not finding many who even do field jackets) I've decided to give Johnson leathers a try as they've got a good selection of leathers and options. Specifically, they have an option for a removable liner as the proper M65s have, but many leathers do not. Unfortunately, they don't have many options for liners on hand. Right now they only have some thinsulate and a plaid wool, so I'm looking to provide the liner myself. Does anyone have any recommendations for any good places to get wool or alpaca fabric that would be appropriate for a liner? The first one that comes to mind is Pendleton woolen mills, they have a 24oz melton wool. Would that be too heavy for a liner? I know Filson's at least has 24oz mackinaw wool liner. Secondly, should the arms be lined in wool or thinsulate to make it easier to slip on and off? From other posts it looks like many line their jackets in something less likely to snag. Lastly, what leather would be a good option for this kind of jacket? Right now I'm heavily leaning towards a goat but they've also got some 2.75-3oz horween horse as well.

Greetings Goel:
Google Cooper M65 field jacket. I don’t know if they still offer it but i bought one about 10 years ago. It is a most impressive repo of all the real ones i’ve worn during and after the service. I love mine which is in goat. The only diff is no hood and it has a permanent lining. Very well made and to the “T” correct if that’s your goal.
Sure a custom would be higher quality but i’ll keep my Cooper forever and pass it down when it outlives me. My 2 cents.
Be well. Bowen

 

[Goel]

I would go with the thinsulate from Johnson, personally. Unless they don't have it in a color that will work with your leather selection. Thinsulate is a modern material, but it's a very good one. It will help keep the weight and bulk down. I'd recommend it for a removable liner.

I'm interested in your project, as a leather m65 field jacket has been something I've wanted for literally decades, and I've yet to find one that I truly liked, and I've also been considering approaching Johnson to do a custom one for me. Definitely keep us posted.

Thinsulate will be my choice if I can't find any decent wool to use, but a removable wool liner would add some seasonal versatility.

Might be worth looking into a commercially available repop of the original M65 liner in the right size, then get them to build the jacket around that - I'm assuming here you mean the removable, Winter liner?

That would be a good idea but I'm getting custom sizing based off my most well fitting jacket.

Greetings Goel:
Google Cooper M65 field jacket. I don’t know if they still offer it but i bought one about 10 years ago. It is a most impressive repo of all the real ones i’ve worn during and after the service. I love mine which is in goat. The only diff is no hood and it has a permanent lining. Very well made and to the “T” correct if that’s your goal.
Sure a custom would be higher quality but i’ll keep my Cooper forever and pass it down when it outlives me. My 2 cents.
Be well. Bowen

The cooper one does look good but there's none in my size on the bay unfortunately. I can agree with the sentiment that even something that may not be top of the line or whatever can still be a great, long lasting jacket.

I have looked at some of the other options but most lack a hoodie or removable liner that I like in mine. I know it could get heavy, which is why I'm leaning towards the 2.75-3oz goathide. Actually, I did find one other option that could work out, it's the Pop's leather field jacket.

http://www.popsleather.com/prod_v2....9-3dc3f6f8a408185aad3482eb0292568a-6823548109

It's based on the M51 jacket which is pretty similar to the M65 minus the collar, but I bet it would be doable. Would be about half the price too. Unfortunately there's not much info on them online, from what I can tell they're not well liked by vintage repro crowd but loved by the NATO service members that they supply. Luckily for me, I don't really care about authentic details as much as build quality and fit. Does anyone here have any experience to share with them? How are their leathers? Of course I'm not expecting it to be on par with Aero or Johnson, but it would still be something that would probably outlast me.

 

[Goel]

I'm in the final stages of finishing up my jacket but I'm not sure on an issue with sizing on an area that doesn't seem to be talked about much. My jacket will be using a removable wool liner in the body with thinsulate sleeves. About how much extra space should I add in the sleeves to accommodate the thinsulate sleeves? I'm thinking a good extra inch of total sleeve width would be appropriate since this will be primarily a winter a jacket.

 

[Peacoat]

I'm in the final stages of finishing up my jacket but I'm not sure on an issue with sizing on an area that doesn't seem to be talked about much. My jacket will be using a removable wool liner in the body with thinsulate sleeves. About how much extra space should I add in the sleeves to accommodate the thinsulate sleeves? I'm thinking a good extra inch of total sleeve width would be appropriate since this will be primarily a winter a jacket.

You don't need to worry about how much extra to allow in the sleeves. That is Alan's job, and he has been doing it for quite awhile now. I think Thinsulate in the sleeves is a good choice.

Don't depend on the wool lining to be warm for winter wear unless you are in a mild climate. Depending on where you live, plan on layering a vest or a sweater under your coat when the temps get down in the 30s. Field jackets aren't closely fitted, so you will have enough room to layer underneath.

As CrimsonFan said, welcome to the Lounge.

 

[Goel]

I forgot to mention, I'm actually doing my field jacket through pop's leather and I'm doing a leather trucker jacket through Johnson Leather. My main reason was that pop's already has a really thick lambswool liner on hand that's almost as warm as my N1 deck jacket, while JL has my favorite type 3 makeup with snaps and handwarmer pockets. The majority of leather field jackets or similar styles I see today are actually pretty slim.

 

[Goel]

Updating this topic as I did get my goatskin M51 jacket and it turned out great.

I wasn't sure of the idea so I got a cheap one through pop's leather and it ended up being my main jacket through the winter. Something about wearing a big leather jacket with a fluffy collar that laughs at the cold just feels good. Now I'm wanting to try out an M65 as I much prefer that collar style with a shearling liner in the body like I've seen on some Aeros. I'm going through Johnson leather this time but I'm not sure of the leather to use. It's going to be a cowhide, I'm thinking of either a forest green or black finished cowhide, along with a 1/4 or 1/2 inch shearling. For reference, my current jacket has a lambswool that looks to be about a 1/2 inch and it's kept me warm in some miserable cold, even below 0F in some short bursts.

Would a forest green leather M65 be too out there? I will be doing a removable mouton collar and hood with a fur ruff from a retailer I found, but might skip the removable liner this time as I don't really use it all that much (and I've already got the M51 for that role). What colors would look good and what color hardware?

 

[Guppy]

Looks great! Post some fit pics.

 

[barnabus]

What colour is forest green @Goel?

Even Google can't seem to tell me properly!

I love the idea though. A full on weatherproof brick outhouse of a green military leather jacket sounds immense!

 

[Edward]

Yes , fit-pics would be great; it looks like an interesting jacket.

 

[Goel]

I'm allergic to mirrors but here it is without the liner and collar, I do believe it might have a shearling liner after all as the nylon backing was attached to something, I'm assuming the hide.

Honestly the field jacket design is just so functional that I'm having a hard time thinking of anything else to use for winter. I've had peacosts, shearling bombers, deck jackets, nothing compares to this so far. The only thing more functional would probably be a down jacket just for the lighter weight, but this isn't very heavy for me at all.

Regarding the forest green, here is the picture JL sent me

That is the naked version, I assume the finished one will have an even smoother grain judging from the pictures of the black finished hide. I feel like it would be the equivalent of the those trucker jackets done in navy/blue leather as the denim ones were, except in green leather instead of green sateen of the real field jackets.