Latest Project: Mycustomtailor Suit!

[Jovan]

I hope I can do the same sometime this year for the few fellow fans here of the 1960s. Just need to save the money!

I really like how Big Man and Hemingway's stuff came out. Hope to see Atomic Glee's when his comes in, too. Good luck, I know how ordering tailored things online can be sometimes!

 

[Atomic Glee]

I only hope you didn't pick the "Bi-Swing" back option. If you have, email them and ask them not to do it. They don't know how! The put a single center pleat that is totally random. It showed up that way on mine, but I had it sewn shut. Or email them and educate them exactly how it should be.

I didn't choose that - in fact, I don't recall ever seeing the option. How odd!

Sounds like they need a bit of an education on action backs. I only have one jacket with a back like that - a J. Peterman jacket that is a heavy wool plaid, and it's quite well done for a modern number.

I agonized over the lapels. I wanted them to be bold. I am very pleased how it worked out.

Bold they are! I find myself tiring of weak clothing - I am coming around in confidence to be bold. Thanks for blazing the path on those lapels - they really do look great.

 

[Atomic Glee]

My new Hemingway Special has shipped out from Mycustomtailor and is winging its way towards Fort Worth now. Really anxious to get ahold of this one.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Excellent news, Atomic. You are building quite the wardrobe!

 

[Matt Deckard]

Post some good pics when it arrives. I'm all about the peak single breasteds.

 

[reetpleat]

Coming to this thread way late, I just wanted to comment on the original suit. It is nice, nice fabric, looks great on him and pretty cool. But one thing wa bothering me and I had to think hard until I figured it out.

What bothers me, especially with the peak lapel single breasted, is that the vest is not only a little high, but more importantly, the v of the vest is not near the same angle as the jacket. On most suits of the era, and the original pic of the style, the vest is much more in line with the angle of thae jacket.

Not only does this affect the vintage style, but also in general throws off the lines for me.

I didn't see anyone else mention that, but it seems to really jump out to me.

That said, very cool to get sch a nice suit for a good price and it looks great on you overal Hemm,

 

[metropd]

What bothers me, especially with the peak lapel single breasted, is that the vest is not only a little high, but more importantly, the v of the vest is not near the same angle as the jacket. On most suits of the era, and the original pic of the style, the vest is much more in line with the angle of thae jacket.

You have a Very good eye, I was thinking the same thing but you still look great Mr. Jones:eusa_clap .

 

[Hemingway Jones]

.

Thank you, Gentleman. I appreciate the feedback and kind words.

As to the vest and it's relative position. Each time I believe I have seen something frequently enough to codify it as a rule, something else comes along to disclaim it. I have seen so many variations in relative button stances, height, lapel and how each piece relates, that I've realized that there was so much artistry, taste, and aesthetic at work, that painting with a broad brush simply does not encapsulate the variations and possibilities.

I suppose, ultimately, I have adopted a more particular method of critiquing; how does it look on you? How does it fit your physique and purposes?

In this instance, I am very pleased for $300 or so, and you should see it in person; the material is very heavy and drapes very well.

 

[Atomic Glee]

I have the suit. Pics will be forthcoming. As for first impressions?

Oh yes.

I'm really happy. The pants are a smidge tight around the waistular area, but nothing to get worked up about, and a good incentive to lose a little more weight. Beyond that, it feels really great. I didn't give them much to go on - just basic sizes, chest/waist/stomach measurements, pant size/length, simple stuff. Specified "snug fit" for the jacket. Five and a half inch lapels, two inch cuffs on the pants. Fit feels really good, very close. Next time I'll try full measurements, but they really did a great job even with just the basic stuff. Easily the best-fitting suit I have ever worn. Quality seems great. I sprung for the Italian silk lining as well, and suspender buttons. Heavier than I was expecting, and the drape seems great.

It may not be a perfect vintage repro, but you can definitely tell where it's coming from. It has a fantastic vintage look and feel even without being completely accurate. I am really happier than I expected I'd be with it. I'm thinking I will definitely be working with MCT again.

Now, to get some photos.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Excellent news and I am waiting for those photos.

So, the "Italian designer lining," is it similar to Houston Street Gucci bag material? Mine was. lol

 

[Atomic Glee]

Excellent news and I am waiting for those photos.

So, the "Italian designer lining," is it similar to Houston Street Gucci bag material? Mine was. lol

You know, now that you mention it, it is eerily similar.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

I was surprised about how heavy my blue suit was. It was much, much heavier than the brown suit I bought first. What color was yours?

 

[Atomic Glee]

I was surprised about how heavy my blue suit was. It was much, much heavier than the brown suit I bought first. What color was yours?

Brown with cream stripe, if only because I have a lot more brown stuff to go with it. Similar to your original, not exactly the same I think but in that neighborhood. Already stands out from the crowd, though for the next I think I'd do something even more unusual to today's mainstream.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Brilliant! It sounds wonderful... now go get your digital camera.

 

[Daisy Buchanan]

Excellent news and I am waiting for those photos.

So, the "Italian designer lining," is it similar to Houston Street Gucci bag material? Mine was. lol

lol lol lol lol

 

[Atomic Glee]

A couple of quick shots. I hate using the flash, but I had no alternative. Probably get some better ones in the light of day tomorrow, but you get the idea:

Forgive the rather dorky looking guy in the suit - he doesn't do it justice. Heh.

 

[Feraud]

The lapels on the jacket look great! Great tie too. :eusa_clap

 

[Big Man]

That suit really does look great. What fabric (what was their number) did you use?

 

[Fletch]

As to the vest and it's relative position. Each time I believe I have seen something frequently enough to codify it as a rule, something else comes along to disclaim it. I have seen so many variations in relative button stances, height, lapel and how each piece relates, that I've realized that there was so much artistry, taste, and aesthetic at work, that painting with a broad brush simply does not encapsulate the variations and possibilities.

Still - it was very rare to see a high cut, shallow vee vest back in the day. The inspiration definitely comes from 1990s styles rather than 1930s.

Is there any way to give these internet tailors detailed drawings of the styles one likes, or must everything be communicated in words and check boxes - and potentially lost on someone whose first language is not one's own and who is, as a worker in the industry, most concerned with following "real world" trends and tastes?

Matt Deckard made the point in his thread about Joe that most tailors will look at a 30s design and tell you it simply cannot be done. What, outside of an original in your size, would show them?

 

[Rooster]

Great suit AG!:eusa_clap