Jodhpurs / Breeches

[Miss Sis]

Apart from making your hips look enormous - but again, the correct fit is flattering on the behind.

 

[SuperKawaiiMama]

I've been looking for a pair of exactly those trousers. My theory is that their over emphasis will actually help disguise surplus hippage. (yes I made that up)

 

[Spitfire]

It's actually quite strange that hussars - and other cavallary troopers - in the napoleonic times did not wear flaring riding breeches. And they did a lot of horsebackriding back then...

 

[draws]

It's actually quite strange that hussars - and other cavallary troopers - in the napoleonic times did not wear flaring riding breeches. And they did a lot of horsebackriding back then...

Spitfire - You bring up a very good point.
In my first response, I did not get into the reasoning as to why the styles changed earlier than they did. The reasons are complex but can be explained this way. When the British empire was expanding in the Asian sub-continent in the early 19th century, they quickly identified the design of the Indian Judphurs as a more practical trouser type for riding and adopted that design into their uniform. That design became the design of choice for the military uniform and was adopted by all of the European states after that.

By the end of the 19th century, all countries had adopted that same design. The US Army adopted it at the turn of the 20th century with full adoption by the start of the first world war. The flaired breech design lasted until the early 1960s. Hope that helps.

 

[alden405]

here is a pair of my Grandpas jods (on me)

he wore these as a Jackeroo in the 30s

somewhere i have a pic of him wearing these,ill try to find it

 

[draws]

Thanks for the information. You have both been very helpful.

Les

Hi Les, Any success in your search? Just wondering.

 

[DeaconKC]

Les, I don't know if these are what you are lookig for, but I hope it's helpful.
http://www.galls.com/style.html?assort=general_catalog&style=TR448&cat=3153

 

[Chrome]

If you are after oldfashioned riding breeches, these could be your answer

http://www.cooncreekoldwest.com

Search from trousers, not militaria as in ww2, but militaria before it...

 

[Mountain Pilot]

Flared breeches or jodhpurs...far more comfortable!

When I learned to ride English...which is TOUGH! I tried the stretchy "Disco Spandex" type of Jods'. God how awful! Especially for a guy! I found a place on line: www.1aiel.com. They do Theatrical stuff. But the jods I got are authentic German WWI reproductions. And they're great, (my wife loves the look, as I do on her when she wears one of her pairs).

 

[Evan Everhart]

Gawd I LOVE riding breeches! I wear mine almost more than my suits and frock coat! The flare at the thigh or knee is to allow for ease of movement without the use of elasticated or stretchy (in the modern sense of the word) fabrics/fibers. Sadly, there is only one tailor left in the entire world who still makes custom made riding breeches without any elasticated material or, for that matter, even knows how! The world is heading towards the darkness of barbarism in our mass-production craze.

 

[BellyTank]

...Sadly, there is only one tailor left in the entire world who still makes custom made riding breeches without any elasticated material or, for that matter, even knows how!..

Is that the American World, or the whole World..?

Who IS this Tailor?


B
T

 

[Evan Everhart]

Is that the American World, or the whole World..?

Who IS this Tailor?


B
T

That is in the entire world. He is an absolute master of his craft and is located in Britain. He is the only bespoke master who still produces riding breeches without the use of stretch fabrics. I can't recall his name at the moment and I haven't the money to order anything from him. Hopefully he's training an apprentice! I doubt that there is a tailor in the U.S. with the talent to produce riding breeches out of non-stretch fabric....I have certainly never heard of one.

 

[draws]

That wouldn't happen to be Michael Smith at Bernard Weatherill sporting tailors, would it? If so, here is a link to an article on them for starters.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/3304316/Real-breeches-of-trust.html

Evan, I assume that you ride if you wear breeches as often as possible. I do as well since I am a member of the governor's horse guard in Massachusetts, "The National Lancers" and the traditionally cut (flaired) breeches are a required component of our uniform kit..

Anyway, I'll keep looking and let you know if I find any additional information. Perhaps more to come.

 

[Evan Everhart]

You've hit on something interesting. Before stretch material allowed for today's tight fitting breeches, the flare in the hip was to allow the extra material, that was needed because it didn't stretch. The flared or pegged breeches go back to the early 1900's.

Before that, even though there was no stretch material, the breeches didn't have the same pronounced flair. Think Civil War, and Indian War cavalry, for the mid-to-late 1800's. Previous to that, say the Napoleonic era. The cavalry wore breeches for full dress, and on campaign they wore "campaign trousers," a type of overalls, that had leather reinforcing on the inside of the leg, and fastened with buttons down the outside of the leg.

How were they able to accomplish the task without the flare, and without stretch material? Good tailoring?

Fabric cut along the bias naturally has more "give" or stretch than fabric which does not. That is why when you look at any garment (this is especially evident in garments composed of twill woven fabrics) the angle of the fabric is diagonal and the pattern of the fabric is not. The bias or diagonal weave allows more "give" or stretch without artificial elastication. Using fabric cut along the bias also gives greater structural integrity and tensile strength to the thusly produced garment. The bias cut of the fabric of neckties is till considered one of the great revolutions of men's neck-wear today. Anyhow, yeah; bias cut fabric means "give" or elasticity. Hope that helps. Great Thread!

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Lament no longer, Evan

Gawd I LOVE riding breeches! I wear mine almost more than my suits and frock coat! The flare at the thigh or knee is to allow for ease of movement without the use of elasticated or stretchy (in the modern sense of the word) fabrics/fibers. Sadly, there is only one tailor left in the entire world who still makes custom made riding breeches without any elasticated material or, for that matter, even knows how! The world is heading towards the darkness of barbarism in our mass-production craze.

I just bought these.

At less than $20 for 4 pair, I simply couldn't resist.

I'll write a review when they arrive.

 

[Wolfmanjack]

I just posted this reply in the "Riding breeches: what's the flaring for?" thread; but now I realize it may be more appropriate here.

Bartenders, perhaps these two threads should be merged.

I just bought these.

At less than $20 for 4 pair, I simply couldn't resist.

I'll write a review when they arrive.

 

[draws]

I have seen these breeches available on ebay, ebay.de and ebay.co.uk. They are East German and huge lots of them were released to the market when East and West Germany once again united.

That wasn't a bad price and many have been sold, especially to motorcycle enthusiasts. It is unfortunate that traditional British and American styles are so hard to find but when they are placed up for sale, they usually sell for a very high price. Fortunately, respectable reproductions are available from What Price Glory and SchipperFabrik even though their cut may be more cookie cutter than one would like.

 

[Cigarband]

Favorite of the Raja of Jodhpur

The style was imported from India during the British occupation in the latter half of the 19th century and became popular for military uniforms, initially with cavalry and only in Britain, but eventually for all the armies of the world and later the air forces too. In popular culture they were particularly associated with aviators, hunters and movie directors. In the early 20th C until the 40’s Jodhpurs were common work trousers for farm labourers in many parts of the world, including Western and Eastern Europe, America, and Australia; it could be said that they fulfilled a role similar to denim jeans. During World War 2 they lost favour as a uniform style, but were famously retained by the German officers and such notable figures and General Patton.

After World War 2 they only remained as riding trousers in the West, but were also used for motorcycle police uniforms. In Eastern Europe they were still used as work trousers, as well as in the uniforms of many Soviet Bloc countries, including the USSR and East Germany

 

[Fletch]

They started losing favor in the US as soon as the Army Air Corps became its own Corps, rather than a Service. Army pilots began adopting long trousers in the late 20s. By 1937, only the cavalry was expected to wear breeches & boots in any context whatsoever.

 

[Kifaru]

The tight modern breeches only look good on Zara Phillips and Nicole Kidman. Everybody else looks, uh, well, rather, ummm....plump. They would make me look downright obese.

I wear mine from WPG and tall Patton style boots to work with tweed jacket. Very comfortable and stylish.