Is this a Perfecto 618 or 118? Bought on eBay for $300 incl shipping

[Peter Suzuki]

 

[Peter Suzuki]

Haven’t received it yet. So I’m not sure.

 

[AeroFan_07]

From Schott NYC's website:

618:

118:

We consider the Model 118 as a close cousin to our popular Model 618 with just a few differences. Perfecto® Model 118 leather jackets for men are made with U. S. sourced, chrome-tanned, drum dyed, heavyweight naked leather. This hide has a softer "hand" when compared to our steerhide and a matte finish

So not sure you'll be able to tell much until you recieve it.

118: https://www.schottnyc.com/products/classic-perfecto-jacket.htm?catID=8

618: https://www.schottnyc.com/products/steerhide-perfecto.htm?color=1&catID=8

 

[Aloysius]

They're essentially the same jacket except the leather (118 is untreated full grain hide; 618 is hide with a waterproofing treatment that's smoother to the touch) and, since either the 80s or 90s, sizing (A given size in 118 = one size up from that in 618, which is why Schott recommends going up one size from your chest measurement on 613/618 jackets.)

 

[Peter Suzuki]

They're essentially the same jacket except the leather (118 is untreated full grain hide; 618 is hide with a waterproofing treatment that's smoother to the touch) and, since either the 80s or 90s, sizing (A given size in 118 = one size up from that in 618, which is why Schott recommends going up one size from your chest measurement on 613/618 jackets.)

We’ll, 118 is an inch longer & fuller.

 

[Aloysius]

We’ll, 118 is an inch longer & fuller.

Fuller in the sense that it’s one size up. Being longer isn’t necessarily the case; it depends on when it is from— as does any sizing difference.

 

[Peter Suzuki]

Fuller in the sense that it’s one size up. Being longer isn’t necessarily the case; it depends on when it is from— as does any sizing difference.

It has Ideal cuff zippers so it’s late 80’s-90’s.

 

[Aloysius]

It has Ideal cuff zippers so it’s late 80’s-90’s.

Schott resumed the use of Ideal zippers; the lack of them was a relatively short period.

How do you know this from that blurry picture, anyway? Once you have it in hand it’ll be extremely obvious which model it is, but even the conclusions that seem clear to me from that picture I’m not committing to because it could be otherwise in real life.

 

[Peter Suzuki]

Fuller in the sense that it’s one size up. Being longer isn’t necessarily the case; it depends on when it is from— as does any sizing difference.

It has Ideal cuff zippers so it’s late 80’s-90’s.

 

[Peter Suzuki]

Schott resumed the use of Ideal zippers; the lack of them was a relatively short period.

How do you know this from that blurry picture, anyway? Once you have it in hand it’ll be extremely obvious which model it is, but even the conclusions that seem clear to me from that picture I’m not committing to because it could be otherwise in real life.

There’s another picture I didn’t post that shows Ideal zippers

 

[Monitor]

It has Ideal cuff zippers so it’s late 80’s-90’s.

Schott is installing Ideal zippers on sleeves as we speak. My new jacket has them.

 

[Harris HTM]

Also 118 has a snap button for the belt buckle so it stays in place; the 618 does not. I don't know if this is a recent add though.
The photo's are not good but it seems the jacket does not have such a snap button.

 

[Edward]

They're essentially the same jacket except the leather (118 is untreated full grain hide; 618 is hide with a waterproofing treatment that's smoother to the touch) and, since either the 80s or 90s, sizing (A given size in 118 = one size up from that in 618, which is why Schott recommends going up one size from your chest measurement on 613/618 jackets.)

That's also my understanding - back end of the eighties, I believe. My 618 is a nice jacket; I'd buy a 118 at the right price, but even used they've gone well up on what I'd be prepared to pay over here. Mix of Schott's price rising and the pound dropping significantly in value against the dollar since 2016. There are more affordable models than the 618/613/118, but they tend to be lambskin, which is not a hide I favour.

I'm sure I've seen 118s that didn't have the Schott-branded snaps that are on the 618, but I can't honestly claim to know whether that was ever a difference in the same era or no. I would as a rule prefer a plain snap myself, but it's not the worst branding I've ever seen ,and I can sort of see why Schott want to jump on that given that it's one point of distinction they can retain for their jackets on the market.

I did find a post from Gail on Schott's bbs from back in 2006 where she says:

"On the sizing comparison of the 2 jackets, the measurements are slightly different, but basically the 618 in a size 40 would be the measurements in the 118 size 38. The chest and shoulder measurements in the 118/38 is the same as the 618/40 and accordingly for all the sizes. The bottom sweep of the 618 is about 1" wider than the 118 in all sizes. The 618 is 1" shorter than the 118 in all sizes. On the 118 the sleeve length is 1/2" longer than a 618. Please note all these comparisons are based on the 118 in a size compared to the 618 in one size larger."

Interesting that the 118 is apparently a touch longer according to Gail even allowing for the difference in size labelling, though given the normal tolerances for these things and mass-production, I would be wary of assuming it was always exactly so. IMO, the most significant differences will be the hide (chrome tanned on 618 or naked cowhide on the 118) and the size labelling. Unless there's a close-up of the label (from memory, my 618 has a little 618 tag attached somewhere on the edge of the big label in the back of the neck), it's almost impossible to tell the difference between the two from a photo alone otherwise.

Interesting seeing the Schott website now, quite a range of variations on the Perfecto vibe. I'm reminded too of their recent foray into engineer boots, which look interesting at a similar price to Red Wings.

 

[Aloysius]

Schott is installing Ideal zippers on sleeves as we speak. My new jacket has them.

Mine does too.

Also 118 has a snap button for the belt buckle so it stays in place; the 618 does not. I don't know if this is a recent add though.
The photo's are not good but it seems the jacket does not have such a snap button.

It’s a more recent addition I believe. That said, I noticed it but I’m not sure I’d affirm it given the blurry photo.

The real tell will be quite simple, naked vs coated hide.

 

[Edward]

The buckle-stud is a nice idea; I have handled a few jackets over the years where the pressure all going on the belt-loop weakened the stitching over time.

 

[dubpynchon]

I have a 118, it's about 25 inches long, an inch longer than the normal Schotts. They're cut very roomy around the belly and waist, it's why I rather wear my Vansons. The snap for the buckle on the Schott is very handy though.

 

[Harris HTM]

The snap for the buckle on the Schott is very handy though.

I remember Schott saying that they applied this so the gas tank won't get scratched by a loose belt buckle.
I own two 618's, in steer (2012) and horse (2015) and I wish they had such a snap. I don't ride but it'd look better.

 

[Monitor]

Not gonna lie, the snap is handy but it's actually so stupid. I have it on my Per70 and keep the buckle snapped at all times as it is convenient but the jacket looks SO lame that way. . . That hanging belt is a huge part of what makes Perfecto cool and with the buckle snapped on, the jacket looks castrated.

 

[Harris HTM]

Not gonna lie, the snap is handy but it's actually so stupid. I have it on my Per70 and keep the buckle snapped at all times as it is convenient but the jacket looks SO lame that way. . . That hanging belt is a huge part of what makes Perfecto cool and with the buckle snapped on, the jacket looks castrated.

well I've been to countless concerts with my perfecto's and a massive buckle swaying around a sensitive area of your body while headbanging doesn't feel that comfortable!

 

[Bfd70]

Not gonna lie, the snap is handy but it's actually so stupid. I have it on my Per70 and keep the buckle snapped at all times as it is convenient but the jacket looks SO lame that way. . . That hanging belt is a huge part of what makes Perfecto cool and with the buckle snapped on, the jacket looks castrated.

Side by side photo?