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Iron Heart cotton duck type III jacket.

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
I have always been a big fan of cotton duck.
Since i bought my first pair of Carhartt work pants on my first trip to the US when i was 12 years old i have loved the color, the texture and the hard wearing nature of this fabric.
I still own and wear those work pants i bought 18 years ago, i blame the fact that they still fit me on the "I must wear oversized clothes" fashion of my youth! They are a bit frayed here and there, are almost white they faded so much, but they still look good. Unfortunately it's a pretty hard fabric to come by in the UK.

Last year, strolling the internet i randomly came upon Iron Heart, a British company selling heavy Japanese denim clothes. When i saw they had a heavy cotton duck Type III jacket i had to buy it.

The jacket is made in Japan, in pretty small batches, using high quality materials and although the prices are pretty high, after wearing it one year i can tell it is worth it.
The cotton duck is a thick and heavy 17oz fabric, considering that most Carhartt workwear uses 7.5 to 12oz this is pretty much bullet proof. What i love is that it is so thick it develops great wear marks at the elbows, pretty similar to what a leather jacket would do.
All the seams are felled and look very neat and strong, attention to detail is very good.
Most importantly, the fit is really good! Not as baggy as the current duck work clothes would be, more casual! The fit from model to model, and even batch to batch of the same model varies some, but IH are pretty good at updating the measurements.
After a year of wear the jacket is just starting to feel less like cardboard and more like fabric and is just starting to show slight discoloration at rubbing points.
I have no doubt this thing is going to last me at least the 18+ years i got out of my Carhartt.

It is worth mentioning that although unlined these jackets are pretty warm. They are pretty much rain proof and windproof, I assume this comes from the fact that cotton duck was originally used as sailcloth.
It is so tightly woven, water beads on it and wind glides on it. A bit like cotton gabardine! Now i doubt it would protect you in a storm as well as a gabardine trench coat, but even the London weather has not been able to get through it yet.
It is now between 6c and 10c degrees in London (40f to 50f) and i still wear my cotton duck jacket daily. With a warm jumper underneath i feel fine.

Now, what prompted me to do this review?

Two things:

First, i bought a second one! Last week was a sale weekend for Iron Heart, and when i saw they had the same jacket in black on sale at half price i had to buy it.
I am now sorted for the next 36+ years of wear when it comes to cotton duck!

Second, i couldn't help but feel like these guys deserve it, they have a great product, amazing customer service, and for some reason it seems that no one on this forum knows about them.
I guess that after my review of the Lewis Leather Dominator last month i kind of felt Iron Heart deserved the same as they really are doing a fantastic job to.

Now, here are the jackets, the brown one is a year old, the black one is a day old.

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Fit pics:

The black one is an inch longer at the arms and back, the shoulders are also a bit more free, and the chest although the same width has a bit more space in the back and less space in the front.

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Review of the Lewis Leathers:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?74729-Lewis-Leathers-Dominator-No-551
 
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winterland1

Practically Family
Messages
535
Location
minneapolis
Nice review and great jackets. Good score on the black one being on sale .
I have been watching for a good deal on one of their heavier 12 oz black denim shirts for a while.
IH makes nice products not cheap though.
Scored a used like new pair of their 21 ounce jeans a while back. Love them.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
Thanks,

Yes, they are definitely not cheap, but if like me you believe in "buy cheap buy twice" it makes sens!

I have been looking at their 21 and 25oz trousers for ages, but i just can't get past the cut....
IMO they really are "dad pants", really high rise and wide legs, really not my style! If they did trousers similar to what i wear i would jump on them.
 

Highwaymanman

A-List Customer
Messages
360
Location
Nowhere
Very nice jackets indeed and the black one on sale is a find. I have to say though, a Filson type 3 in oiled tin cloth is half the price all year round.
 

winterland1

Practically Family
Messages
535
Location
minneapolis
Thanks,

Yes, they are definitely not cheap, but if like me you believe in "buy cheap buy twice" it makes sens!

I have been looking at their 21 and 25oz trousers for ages, but i just can't get past the cut....
IMO they really are "dad pants", really high rise and wide legs, really not my style! If they did trousers similar to what i wear i would jump on them.

I believe they do have what you are looking for in jeans. You just have to look for the cut and style you want. The pair I have are definitely not high rise. They are not quite skinny jeans, which I don't want. They are a lower rise and tighter legs than Levis 501 STF.
I would shoot them an email about the rise and cut you were looking for. They also seem to have styles that only are out for a while and then not released again.
Like mine, they are an Iron Heart Self Edge collaboration. Model SEXIH07.
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,825
Location
China
Nice jackets. Good that you are now set for the next couple of decades cos I doubt they are making these anymore just as they have stopped making the paraffin coated duck logger. I have the IH634s, the IH 461sp, the paraffin coated duck logger IH 804 and their 12oz denim shirt. They are heavy stuffs and while I love them, I don't get much chance to wear them given the warm climate.
 
Last edited:

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
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5,456
Location
London, UK
The outerwear sub forum really is something else isn't it?

Be careful, Floey: this forum is a foreign land for the likes of you and me.

It's all Denim and Leather (which was the title of a Saxon LP back in 1981: "Denim and Leather, Brought us all together, It was you that set the spirit free". That says all you need to know).

Now run off and find a thread full of pictures of 1930s secretaries, where you know you'll be safe!
 

Flat Foot Floey

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3,220
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Germany
Come on. He is calling high waisted trousers "dad pants" on a forum that is (was?) focussed on 1920s-1950s vintage aesthetics. Who is trolling now?
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
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5,456
Location
London, UK
I miss out seeing really good overcoats in the 'Show us Your Overcoats' thread just because I don't like to venture into this area of the forum because it's just not safe. It's all too modern for me!
 

yakima

One of the Regulars
Messages
136
Location
where it's at
I have been looking at their 21 and 25oz trousers for ages, but i just can't get past the cut....
IMO they really are "dad pants", really high rise and wide legs, really not my style! If they did trousers similar to what i wear i would jump on them.

IH jeans are cut as classic jeans. And the jackets would be more classic without the side pockets.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
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4,944
Location
London
IH jeans are cut as classic jeans. And the jackets would be more classic without the side pockets.

Hey, nothing wrong with a classic cut, or people who wear classic cut jeans!
It just doesn't work for my body type/style, and i would love them to do a least a more "modern" fitting one.
 
Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
No need to bicker over this. I've gotten used to and like some of the modern cuts after years of US "fat man" stuff.
I'm 6'-4" and it's nice to not look like a hot air balloon when you get dressed.
IH and others like them aren't making skiing boy stuff for the most part, although they do have some trimmer models in many things.
Live a little - try something new :)
 

Graemsay

Practically Family
Messages
998
Location
Melbourne
Try the 555 or 666 cuts.

I've got pretty big calves, and couldn't get the 555s past them. They are very, very skinny.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
Nice jacket but that statement gave me cancer. The outerwear sub forum really is something else isn't it?

lol Yeah, I spotted that. I don't get the complaint either... actually, I've turned down trousrrs from a number of brands (Geronimo, most recently) because of what to me are excessively low waists (always hated a low waist, even as a kid. Horrifically uncomfortable). I think what it is is that there's a crossover between a leather jacket community and vintage community. You can tell the tribe by the trouser. What was it Uncle Joe used to say... "Like trouser, like brain." ;-)
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
lol Yeah, I spotted that. I don't get the complaint either... actually, I've turned down trousrrs from a number of brands (Geronimo, most recently) because of what to me are excessively low waists (always hated a low waist, even as a kid. Horrifically uncomfortable). I think what it is is that there's a crossover between a leather jacket community and vintage community. You can tell the tribe by the trouser. What was it Uncle Joe used to say... "Like trouser, like brain." ;-)

I guess it comes down to what you are used to!

i can't deal with trousers that reach my belly button, i want them to sit on my hips, always have, always will!
 

injunjack

One of the Regulars
Messages
123
Location
Finland
Speaking of IH jeans, I think only model they are offering that comes as high as your bellybutton is 1955S. I have several their jeans, though most of them are variations of 634 and d Beatle busters, and they sit on the hip. BB's are nicer for riding a MC as their backrise is a bit higher...
So, as it's been said, measure your fav jeans and compare to their sizing and search between diff. models.
 
Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
Speaking of IH jeans, I think only model they are offering that comes as high as your bellybutton is 1955S. I have several their jeans, though most of them are variations of 634 and d Beatle busters, and they sit on the hip. BB's are nicer for riding a MC as their backrise is a bit higher...
So, as it's been said, measure your fav jeans and compare to their sizing and search between diff. models.

I tried a bunch on at Self Edge and the Beatle Buster was my favorite.
I found that I also wasn't comfortable (they were heavy - don't recall if they were 21, 23, or 25oz.) unless I went up a couple sizes. But I think the idea is to allow for stretching, so initial comfort may have to be sacrificed. I'm hoping Gustin do a 21+oz denim soon. I like their prices better :)
 

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