Introduction and a question about a British Bowler that I have.

[Doc Mark]

Greetings, All,

This is my first post here, and I wanted to say how happy I am to have found you folks! As an introduction, I'll share a note I sent to Nathan today, and then ask my first questions. Here's what I sent this morning:

"My name is Mark Rutlege, aka "Doc Mark", and I've just registered at The Fedora Lounge, and look forward to being able to post there. After perusing it this morning, I found the FL has much to offer that is definitely of interest to me. I love hats, the outdoors, dressing nicely when my wife and I go out, firearms, pocket watches, and also straight razors! You guys cover the entire gamut, which is very nice, indeed!

I found your forum whilst trying to research a British Bowler (Derby) which I bought quite a few years ago in a Southern California antique store. I not only found your forum, but also a fairly famous man in the US whose name is marked inside my Bowler. I am looking forward to asking your membership about this, and also have questions about Western hats from Stetson, and other makers, as well as sharing the hats my wife and I use for 18th century Living History. If you have any questions for me, please let me know, and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. Thanks, very much, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Mark ("Doc")"

So, glad to be here, and I'm hoping your membership might be able to help me with my first questions at The Fedora Lounge. Years ago, I bought a British Bowler in an antique store, mainly because I liked the quality of it, and it fit me perfectly. It's in very nice condition, except for the silk brim ribbon, which is deteriorating a bit. I never gave too much thought to learning more about it, until, that is, I found YOU folks today!! So, I typed in the name that is to be found inside my hat, and came up with a fairly well-known man from the 19th century. Here's what's found inside the crown of my hat, and also on the leather sweat band: "W.D. Craig, 85, Main Street, Coatbridge". I soon found that, if this is the same Mr. Craig, he was Wm. Duke Craig, born in Chesterfield County, South Carolina, in 1845 and passed away in 1935. He fought in the Civil War, and was a merchant who also owned Craig's Grist Mill. From what I have read, he was well known in his area, and fairly well-off, having donated property for a public park. Though altered from it's original form and appearance, the Craig house still stands, having been moved about 500 yards North of it's original location, in 1975.

My questions about this Bowler: Do you think this hat might have actually been owned by Wm. Duke Craig, as there is no other marking in it other than his name in two places? Second, if so, then this hat has some historical significance, and restoring and wearing it would seem out of the question. What are your thoughts on this? Would you find a hatter of superlative quality who could replace the brim ribbon correctly? And, would you then wear this hat, or see if it might be worthy of inclusion in a museum of that area and time period?

My next questions revolve around some Stetson hats I'm considering seeking out, buying, and wearing. I want a good Fedora, made early enough to be a quality hat, and in size 7 3/8 Long Oval. I'm thinking black, deep grey, or dark brown. Any suggestions? I've already ruled out some of the lesser quality Stetsons I've seen on "the Bay", as I'd rather have a really nice hat for wearing with suits and good sports coats. And, along those same lines, I'm also wanting to buy a nice Stetson western (cowboy) hat, again, of better quality, same size, and I'm leaning towards an Open Road, or something along those lines, though open to suggestion. 3X and above would be of interest to me, and the better hats would be preferred. I've had Resistol hats before, as well as lesser quality offerings, and currently have a 2X Eddie Bros. Rodeo model, which I bought many years ago, and wear on occasion. It's a 7 3/8 size, but not a Long Oval, and so I'd like to augment it with a proper hat of proper size.

Any and all comments, suggestions, and thoughts would be gratefully appreciated, Folks, and I really look forward to hearing what you all might be able to share with me. My wife and I use Clearwater Hats in our Living History hobby, and I've found that, whether in a fancy situation, or in the woods, sleeping in your wool blanket, these hats turn rain nicely, keep the sun off our pates, and are a pleasure to own. I don't even know if this company is still in business, but we've used ours with 100% satisfaction, and in many circumstance, for many, many years. I'll post photos of those, and also many other things, as we go along, and am eager to participate in The Fedora Lounge family of members! Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

[Chief000731]

Hello Doc and welcome to the Lounge, you sure did come to the right place the guys on the lounge are the best nicest friendliest people you will find anywhere and very knowlegable about fedoras, bowlers, western hats all of it... I think posting several pictures of your derby and the name and any stampings that are in it would be a good start. As for restoring it there are the best hat makers in the world here on The Fedora Lounge that can do anything to hats bar none... Well again welcome Doc... Chief. :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[Brad Bowers]

Hi Doc, and welcome to the Lounge

Since it's inside the crown and on the sweatband, "W.D. Craig, 85, Main Street, Coatbridge" would be the name and address of the shop in Scotland where the hat was purchased. It could also be the manufacturer, but more than likely it was just a house brand made by a large hat manufacturer in the UK. Doubtful it's your fellow from South Carolina.

Brad

 

[Tango Yankee]

Hi, Doc, and welcome!

I don't have any info, but I did a search on the address you gave and found it's in the UK, currently a store called Cradle Care. If it belonged to the guy from SC he spent some time in the UK.

Don't have time at the moment to address your additional questions; perhaps someone else will chime in.

Regards,
Tom

Edit: Good catch, Brad. I skimmed and it didn't register that it was in two places.

 

[Doc Mark]

Good Evening, Gentlemen,

Many thanks for the warm welcomes, Guys! Much appreciated. Thanks, also, for the information that has come to light so far. In a bit of additional research, earlier today, I found a "W.D. Craig" in Coatbridge, Scotland, am currently seeking more information about him. I wonder if he might be the father of the fellow from SC? In any case, this is all very interesting, to say the least!

I also note, with great interest, the plethora of Panama hats worn by members here. I have never tried one, but I do have a hemp hat, made in the similar style to those from Panama, which has served me very well in the US, and also abroad, in Turkey (several times), Italy (several times), Croatia, Greece, and Santorini Island. Whilst not near as fancy and stylish as a fine Panama hat, this old Hemp hat has done very well in keeping me shaded and cool, and not losing it's shape or structure. I'll study the info on how to post photos here, and see if I can share a few of my hats with you, including the bowler, and the hemp hat. Thanks, again, Guys, and I'll talk to you soon. Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

[Doc Mark]

Greetings, Gentlemen and Ladies,

Brad, your comments to my original question have caused me to look around a bit more, for additional information about this Coke/Bowler, and so far, I'm coming up blank as to any hat makers in Coatbridge during the time this hat would have been made. However, I have learned a good bit more about the South Carolina W.D. Craig, and this further information is very interesting, to say the least. I'll show the photos of my Coke, first, then post the new info I've found about this man. Here goes:

I'm hoping that someone will recognize the Union label and be able to help date this hat a bit, and possibly know the location of it's manufacture (US or Scotland). Here's the stuff I found out about W.D. Craig. His home in Chesterfield, was originally built between 1795, and 1798, on Main street(!), by his father, John Craig, who passed away in 1839. W.D. Craig wrote, in 1925, that Chesterfield's population in 1845, was about 300 folks, (50 whites, and 250 blacks). He wrote that it was a manufacturing center for the surrounding area, containing an iron foundry, a fur hat shop (VERY Interesting!), a blacksmith shop, a factory that made gins, a cabinet shop, a tannery, a shoe and harness shop, a wheelwright shop, and a ginnery.

W.D. Craig served the Civil War on the Confederate side, or course, and in 1919, applied for a pension as a veteran. Craig lived until around 1935, if memory serves, and donated land on which Craig Park was built. He was a farmer (who raised and bred pedigree pigs), business man, and very well known in his time as quite the philanthropist, locally. The old family home still stands, though it was moved about 500 feet North of it's original location at sometime in it's past, onto County property, and is a local landmark.

To thicken the plot a little, I can find not a single mention of a hat making concern in Scotland (Coatbridge), and rather have learned that this area was a huge industrial center, with iron works, coal mines, and other such venues in full swing. This area was infamous for horrible pollution, and was thought of as a fairly ugly place for many years. Not saying that there might not have been a hat making store there, but it seems highly unlikely, from what I've learned so far. So, what do you think, Folks? Can you tell from the style of the Coke, or the Union label, if the hat looks UK made, or is that an old US Union label?

The search for more information continues, but in any case, this has been a VERY interesting undertaking!! I look forward to hearing your further thoughts on this Old Timer. I think that this looks like another hat that could be brought back to life by Art Fawcett, if he would be interested in accepting the undertaking. I'd happily wear it, that's for sure! Thanks, as always, for checking this out, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

[Doc Mark]

Hi, All,

Well, I found more info, just now. The Union label is, indeed, British, and was introduced in 1895, as a combined effort to strengthen their Unions.

"In order to maintain their position of strength, the unions recognised that in return they had to give some advantage to employers. This was accomplished by means of a 'Union Label' that was attached to the linings inside hats stating that these hats had been union made. To promote this, the unions mounted an advertising campaign asking people not to buy a hat unless it had this label inside it. Their motto was 'Defence not Defiance'.

The Amalgamated Society of Journeymen Felt Hatters (AJFH) and the Felt Hat Trimmers & Wool Formers Association (FHT&WF) were leading exponents of the Union Label and the scheme was introduced in January 1895. Referring to the label, a male hand on the left, marked AJFH, is shaking hands with a female hand on the right, marked FHT&WF."

So, there is a firm tie to the UK, Folks!! Where does that leave my US W.D. Craig? Don't know, unless he ordered a special hat made in the UK, for shipment to him in the US. A man of the stature of Craig most certainly could have done that. But, no proof, as of yet. The search continues...... Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

[Brad Bowers]

Good information, Doc. That's definitely a British-made hat, as that's not an American union label. This was probably made by one of the larger hat-manufacturing concerns somewhere in England , and merely retailed at the W. D. Craig shop (most likely a men's shop, rather than strictly hats) in Coatbridge. Doubtful it was made in Coatbridge, from your research, but it's still a possibility. Your W. D. Craig from South Carolina has a coincidental name, but probably has nothing to do with the hat.

Brad

 

[Doc Mark]

Howdy, Brad,

Thanks, very much. Yes, after figuring out the Union label, I'm giving up on the Craig in SC, and will concentrate on more info in the UK. There is bound to be more information out there, and all I need is more time to look for it! : ) I'll keep you posted as to what I find, as your Avatar shows you to be a man who appreciates Bowlers/Cokes, and this one is well worth saving. Thanks, again, Brad, and I'll talk to you later. God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

[Doc Mark]

Morning, All,

Well, after several hours of looking for history of businesses in Coatbridge, I've come up blank as to any store named "W.D. Craig" having been there. After checking the photos of my British Bowler, in what period was it made and offered, do you think? I'm thinking 1900-1930, but that's just a guess. Any thoughts? I'll continue to seeking out info on hat shops, or men's clothing stores, or just general stores, in Coatbridge, and will contact a few of my Scottish friends to see if they can help. But, so far, though I've seen photographic evidence from Coatbridge that spans 1900-1970, nothing comes to hand, information-wise. Thanks, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

[Doc Mark]

Greetings, Gentlemen, and Ladies,

Well, I have finally struck informational paydirt, with thanks for a Mate of mine in Scotland!! I put out the word on a stove-collecting site, of which I've been a member since before electricity was invented (OK, maybe not THAT long!), and today I got a great response. Here's what I have learned:

"Hi Doc,

Through the wonders of Ancestry.co.uk, the 1929 telephone directory does indeed list a W D. Craig, hatter, 85 Main Street, Coatbridge.

Coatbridge is in the central belt of Scotland a few miles east of Glasgow.

Best regards

John"

So, there we have it, Folks. Looks like I wasn't too far off in my date estimation, but now that I have a firm bit of into on Hatter Craig, I'll try to narrow that down a bit, to see when he opened his business, and when it was closed. MAN, it's nice to see this come to fruition!! Can you tell I'm stoked.... just a bit! : ) More info, as I find it, and until then, it's wonderful to have a few friends in different parts of this old Mortal Coil! Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

[Doc Mark]

Hi, All,

More information just came in from my friend in Scotland, which helps to know when this Hatter was in business. Here's what my friend, John, sent:

"I've had a slightly deeper look at the telephone directory search on Ancestry.co.uk and W D Craig appears as a hatter and hosier at 85 Main Street, Coatbridge from 1926 to 1939."

I'll keep checking, but if Mr. Craig went out of business in 1939, which, with the war pending, may well have happened, that will really establish a nice date range for my Craig Bowler. I love getting info such as this. Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

[dhermann1]

Doc, you're gonna be happy as a pig in bleep here. Welcome. This is a super primo example of why the Fedora Lounge is so cool. Thanks for this fascinating thread.

 

[Doc Mark]

Greetings, dhermann1,

Thank you, very much, Sir! Much appreciated, and I thank everyone here who digs around and turns up these gems of information. I will keep looking around, but done for today. Still, I want to find out about Mr. Craig, and his shop, and have sent an email to the little shops, which sells baby and kids clothes, that now inhabits Mr. Craig's original location. We'll see if that bears any fruit at all. Thanks, again, for the warm welcome, and for being a part of this interesting site! Great stuff! Take care, and God bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

[Doc Mark]

Greetings, All,

Thought I'd share a few photos that I took yesterday, in honor of a British Railroad pioneer, Bernard Holden, who passed away recent at the ripe old age of 104 years! He did more in his life than most of us could ever imagine. Here's a link for those that might be interested in reading just a bit of what this wonderful Gentleman accomplished in his long and distinguished life:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/technology-obituaries/9587996/Bernard-Holden.html

And, my photos in memory of him, which I call, "Just enough time to make the train.....!"

I'm wearing my very dark blue, double-breasted, pinstripe suit, complete with bow tie, the British Bowler I've shared with you all, eyeglasses I wore all through high school, which date to the 1920-1930 time period, and checking the time on my 1908 Ball Official Standard Railroad pocket watch, which was made the year Bernard Holden was born. It still keeps very good time, which is amazing for a watch that is now 104 years old! Please note that my old eyeglass were worn back before the time I..... ahem.... needed bifocals!! May God Bless Bernard Holden, and all the wonderful and intrepid men and women like him!! Seems, sadly, that we have far fewer of that stellar type of human being around, these days. Rest in peace, Sir, you have more than earned it.

Once my old Bowler has been cleaned and had it's ribbons either replaced, or refurbished, hopefully by Art Fawcett, I will wear it with this suit, and another charcoal suit that I own, with pride! Thanks for giving this a look. Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

[mayserwegener]

Looks great! I would make sure you find the correct vintage ribbon type (could be difficult) for replacement (also difficult to replicate original workmanship).