I ordered a tailored Aeroleather, and I am not happy with the fitting.

[MrProper]

The premium does have the nicer cuff details and curved yoke.

I cannot layer underneath my Premium because the cutting is like a shirt. So it's a shacket and not quite a jacket.

I think it's best if you talk to Aero when they get back and see what they recommend. They know their jackets best. FWIW, I did inquire about getting a shearling lined PHwyman and they talked me out of it. And now I've got a Highwayman/Sheene hybrid in the works.

Here is my Premium Highwayman, when I first got it I was baffled by the size and the creases it made all around. And I experimented with many different things. Now I just come to accept that it is a shacket that fits small but measures big. My jacket is also in the Pinnacle leather so it's deerskin soft, completely opposite of CXL. In CXL I won't be able to wear it in the same size I would want to go up at least one. And this is why I would almost want to suggest you to get the next size up. But talk to Aero. They'd know best.

View attachment 574949
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My many experiments with clips...
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We must have two completely different jackets, even though they are the same model.
With my two PHWM I can definitely wear a thicker sweater underneath and with the cordovan a puffer vest.
Or maybe we have a different perception of "too tight"

 

[Aloysius]

Aero does the bloated back to add range of motion on the more trim patterns of the Premier styles. They do it on the CR and some other motorcycle jackets as well. They do this because they use their 1960's patterns as their pattern base, which, being of a very traditional nature, doesn't account for the armholes opening angle. Try superimposing front & back photos of the HWM from Aero's website, you'll clearly see that the armhole openings are dead set at the side of the body of the jacket which, well, isn't anatomically sound. Extra material on the back of the jacket is supposed to counter this and thus isn't easily remedied, neither by shortening the jacket nor by sizing down.

Beetle-back looks good on Ton and MrProper because they're ripped. It doesn't look good on us because we have nothing but layers of sweaters and hope she'll fall for it to fill the jacket with.

But nevertheless, I personally don't mind the beetle-back. A lot of leather jackets have it and I personally like the look, especially once broken in.

There's not much to be done here. You either like the jacket or you don't.

I actually like the 'beetle back' too. Range of movement will always require fabric; it's a fundamental tailoring principle, whether that fabric manifests in a fuller shape or if it's folded back into pleats and gussets. That's why, for example, skinny suit trousers look like absolute rubbish no matter how skinny the wearer; the fabric pulls all the way up the leg and doesn't produce a line.

You can see the counterpart to it on a lot of Japanese jackets that have a really flat back and basically look static at all times.

 

[Canuck Panda]

We must have two completely different jackets, even though they are the same model.
With my two PHWM I can definitely wear a thicker sweater underneath and with the cordovan a puffer vest.
Or maybe we have a different perception of "too tight"

I also think your PHwyman is a custom built off a complete different block. Because I remember it tapered aggressively down to the hem (24 down to 19 something like that). If I have to guess the building block is the Cafe Racer or the Bike Jacket.

FWIW, the Premier Highwayman is only a drop 2 torso by default, with narrower shoulders/sleeves. I asked for widened shoulder and I assume they just use the next size up and taper down so it became drop 4. I also have the bike jacket and the cafe racer and they're both bigger jackets where I can wear more underneath, yet they also taper more than my Premier Highwayman.

I think stock size 42 Premier is 18" shoulder, 22" P2P and 21" hem. But the key is the overall space around the shoulder / arm circumference which most of the premier jackets are lacking. But not on the bike jacket or cafe racer jackets, they're quite big there, plus a lot more taper down the torso.

So yeah I do also think your Premier Highwayman is actually either a bike jacket or Cafe Racer jacket with the premier details. The bike / grizzly jacket has too much taper for me, something like drop 10 - 12, but the CR jacket is just right with about drop 6 to 8, so I am getting a "highway-sheene".

The premier/Japanese/30s cut jackets has that straight-ish sleeves, where the other Aeros including the bike jacket/cafe racer has a curve. Overall they're just bigger up top and then taper down.

Plus the premier jackets has tiny neck holes, there is no way they fit you at your height frame.

It wasn't until I saw your Board Racers I figured out what they'd done for you. Your Board Racer has two extra side panels, and bigger sleeves (up top) than mine (widen again but still feel like a shirt), then light bulb clicked for me that's the bike jacket/Cafe Racer block.

Here is how the size 42 CR fits me, with only added length. It's tight for me in the stomach because of my holiday one pack abs but the room up top is so much more than the premium jacket. And I think that's what your highwayman is built off of. But with your 8 pack abs you taper even more aggressively towards the hem. Notice no horizontal crease across the upper back, it's a bigger building block jacket. The neck hole could be more oval than round. But I think the Sheene has a wider neck hole thats more towards the back, fingers crossed...

Curves sleeves crease like crazy in the front on day one but can have that elbow stretch...

 

[MrProper]

I also think your PHwyman is a custom built off a complete different block. Because I remember it tapered aggressively down to the hem (24 down to 19 something like that). If I have to guess the building block is the Cafe Racer or the Bike Jacket.

FWIW, the Premier Highwayman is only a drop 2 torso by default, with narrower shoulders/sleeves. I asked for widened shoulder and I assume they just use the next size up and taper down so it became drop 4. I also have the bike jacket and the cafe racer and they're both bigger jackets where I can wear more underneath, yet they also taper more than my Premier Highwayman.

View attachment 575009
View attachment 575011
View attachment 575012

I think stock size 42 Premier is 18" shoulder, 22" P2P and 21" hem. But the key is the overall space around the shoulder / arm circumference which most of the premier jackets are lacking. But not on the bike jacket or cafe racer jackets, they're quite big there, plus a lot more taper down the torso.

So yeah I do also think your Premier Highwayman is actually either a bike jacket or Cafe Racer jacket with the premier details. The bike / grizzly jacket has too much taper for me, something like drop 10 - 12, but the CR jacket is just right with about drop 6 to 8, so I am getting a "highway-sheene".

The premier/Japanese/30s cut jackets has that straight-ish sleeves, where the other Aeros including the bike jacket/cafe racer has a curve. Overall they're just bigger up top and then taper down.
View attachment 575014

Plus the premier jackets has tiny neck holes, there is no way they fit you at your height frame.

It wasn't until I saw your Board Racers I figured out what they'd done for you. Your Board Racer has two extra side panels, and bigger sleeves (up top) than mine (widen again but still feel like a shirt), then light bulb clicked for me that's the bike jacket/Cafe Racer block.

Here is how the size 42 CR fits me, with only added length. It's tight for me in the stomach because of my holiday one pack abs but the room up top is so much more than the premium jacket. And I think that's what your highwayman is built off of. But with your 8 pack abs you taper even more aggressively towards the hem. Notice no horizontal crease across the upper back, it's a bigger building block jacket. The neck hole could be more oval than round. But I think the Sheene has a wider neck hole thats more towards the back, fingers crossed...

Curves sleeves crease like crazy in the front on day one but can have that elbow stretch...

View attachment 575015

Thanks for your thoughts.
As far as I know, I have the PHWM pattern. My custom board racer is also the PHWM pattern. All three in size 44 and minimally widened at the shoulders and tapered by 4". I have a thin neck, so that fits.
My Vincent (slim fit motorcycle jacket) is a different pattern and so is a Cafe Racer (I already had a CR and a Sheene).
The PHWM is slim fit and as I am slim, it fits well

 

[Canuck Panda]

Thanks for your thoughts.
As far as I know, I have the PHWM pattern. My custom board racer is also the PHWM pattern. All three in size 44 and minimally widened at the shoulders and tapered by 4". I have a thin neck, so that fits.
My Vincent (slim fit motorcycle jacket) is a different pattern and so is a Cafe Racer (I already had a CR and a Sheene).
The PHWM is slim fit and as I am slim, it fits well

Makes sense now. Widen shoulder 44 is actually 46, tapering additional 4" is tapering two sizes down. So what you essentially got there is a size 46 tapered down to size 40. Wow. Bigger sized jacket also explains the room at the shoulder/sleeve/pits. You're a tall guy so you carry it well up top.

I was almost hesitant to tell the OP to size up. But instead I will suggest him to talk to Aero. In my experience, horizontal creases are from jackets that is lacking room somewhere so it has to ride up thus creating horizontal creases, and this gives the illusion of being too lose but is actually too small in certain spots (usually the armpits). The classic of being too small and too big and the same time, but is actually too small only looks big. The actual too big jackets I have all have vertical creases, not horizontal ones, like this car coat below. Which is my fault I didn't do my research right. Aero carcoats are usually just one size bigger than their jackets, and me asking to widen the shoulder would mean it went up two sizes from what I normally would want. This is also a premier block. This one I can layer but I would only wear it layered. This is where I think the regular (non premier) blocks are better. I can wear t shirt and layer in the same jacket without much consequences. Premier cuts / 30s cuts / Japanese cuts are tougher to get right, for me. They are either no layer or layer only fits for me, just can't seem to get it right in the middle.

 

[navetsea]

I think one of the factor is single piece back is not ideal, human back is not that flat , so unless the leather is vegtan and you wear it wet to dry to cast the leather on your back, then you will get neater back with 3 or 4 or 5 pieces back

 

[DamonCyclee]

I also think your PHwyman is a custom built off a complete different block. Because I remember it tapered aggressively down to the hem (24 down to 19 something like that). If I have to guess the building block is the Cafe Racer or the Bike Jacket.

FWIW, the Premier Highwayman is only a drop 2 torso by default, with narrower shoulders/sleeves. I asked for widened shoulder and I assume they just use the next size up and taper down so it became drop 4. I also have the bike jacket and the cafe racer and they're both bigger jackets where I can wear more underneath, yet they also taper more than my Premier Highwayman.

View attachment 575009
View attachment 575011
View attachment 575012

I think stock size 42 Premier is 18" shoulder, 22" P2P and 21" hem. But the key is the overall space around the shoulder / arm circumference which most of the premier jackets are lacking. But not on the bike jacket or cafe racer jackets, they're quite big there, plus a lot more taper down the torso.

So yeah I do also think your Premier Highwayman is actually either a bike jacket or Cafe Racer jacket with the premier details. The bike / grizzly jacket has too much taper for me, something like drop 10 - 12, but the CR jacket is just right with about drop 6 to 8, so I am getting a "highway-sheene".

The premier/Japanese/30s cut jackets has that straight-ish sleeves, where the other Aeros including the bike jacket/cafe racer has a curve. Overall they're just bigger up top and then taper down.
View attachment 575014

Plus the premier jackets has tiny neck holes, there is no way they fit you at your height frame.

It wasn't until I saw your Board Racers I figured out what they'd done for you. Your Board Racer has two extra side panels, and bigger sleeves (up top) than mine (widen again but still feel like a shirt), then light bulb clicked for me that's the bike jacket/Cafe Racer block.

Here is how the size 42 CR fits me, with only added length. It's tight for me in the stomach because of my holiday one pack abs but the room up top is so much more than the premium jacket. And I think that's what your highwayman is built off of. But with your 8 pack abs you taper even more aggressively towards the hem. Notice no horizontal crease across the upper back, it's a bigger building block jacket. The neck hole could be more oval than round. But I think the Sheene has a wider neck hole thats more towards the back, fingers crossed...

Curves sleeves crease like crazy in the front on day one but can have that elbow stretch...

View attachment 575015

this make so much sense now, since I got phwm and café racer as well, similar sizing to yours for both.

What did you ask Aero to do for the new custom? build it off the cafe/sheene block into the 23 to 20 , 3inch taper?

 

[jacketjunkie]

The PHwyman has higher armpit than the regular Hwyman, almost one inch higher up given the same shoulder width.

PHwyman 19” shoulder / 23” P2P / 16.5” from center neck to armpit
View attachment 574683

The regular highwayman 19” shoulder/ 24” p2p/ 17.5” from center neck to armpit
View attachment 574685

The extra layer of hoodie and the high armpit of the PHwyman is giving the OP that unwanted horizontal crease right across the upper back (where armpits are). That’s why I suggested the regular highwayman, with a bit more room there the OP can wear the hoodie or t shirt, both will work.

I am close to OP’s height, and I added one inch to my Highwayman’s length, It hits the back pockets on mid high rise and shows a gap on mid low rise. I had two stock Hwyman that were shorter and felt short so I went longer on the third one.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/what-jacket-are-you-wearing-today.82949/post-3049111

The leather on that regular hwm is gorgeous!

As for the OP issues:

1. It looks too tight, like you squeezed yourself into it with a hoodie under it thats all wrinkled up. I bet if we were to see front pictures zipped up, it would be full sausage look. Take pictures with shirt only.

2. The horizontal wrinkle is because the jacket is too long/too tight to fall over your hips,so it bunches up on them.

3. Ignore the beetle/hunch issue. This settles when the jacket is worn in. The leather will mold and form little wrinkles/folds near the sleeves, basically forming „shoulder gussets“ and it will fit flat accross your back. Now you could say „but i dont want naturally formed shoulder gusset wrinkles, but it really helps with mobility.