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I bought Something Vintage! -Updated with new stuff.-

Marc Chevalier

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Fletch said:
Your tails should ... not show gaposis as there's a good overlap between coat front and trou. The trick will be getting a white waistcoat to cover that area – but not dip below the coat front for that "hernia belt" effect ...

In other words, try to make sure that the bottom of the waistcoat is in line with the bottom of the coat front. Like this:


SuitsetcSept505085.jpg


SuitsetcSept505101.jpg
 

Marc Chevalier

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Fletch said:
Marc, if you please, some details about that wing collar? That's the exact thing I've been looking for (and so far failed to find).


The collar was made by New & Lingwood, the English shirtmakers, around 10 years ago. A friend purchased it new for me at New & Lingwood's London shop in 1996. Note that the collar is especially high: 2 1/4 inches in the front, and 2 1/8 inches in the back. Most detachable wing collars made today are 2 inches or less in the front.


collar1.jpg


collar2.jpg
 

Marc Chevalier

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Hemingway Jones said:
Now I need to find the white tie and waistcoat.

The white ties (vintage or new) are all over eBay. Look for white bowties that do not have an adjustable size buckle, since these buckles are totally exposed when the bowtie is worn with a wing collar. Buckles look bad on these bowties.

What you need to do is to find out the exact length of bowtie that suits your neck size. How? Get a measuring tape, go to Brooks Brothers (or your closet :)) and find any untied bowtie, even if it has a buckle (and it probably will). Adjust the buckle to your neck size number (which will be printed on the bowtie's inside band). Then, measure the entire length of the bowtie from end to end. This measurement is what you need in order to find an untied bowtie without a buckle.

When you see one of these vintage "non-buckle" white bowties on eBay, be sure to check that its entire length corresponds to the measurement you took at BBros.


.
 

Hemingway Jones

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Marc Chevalier said:
The white ties (vintage or new) are all over eBay. Look for white bowties that do not have an adjustable size buckle, since these buckles are totally exposed when the bowtie is worn with a wing collar. Buckles look bad on these bowties.

What you need to do is to find out the exact length of bowtie that suits your neck size. How? Get a measuring tape, go to Brooks Brothers (or your closet :)) and find any untied bowtie, even if it has a buckle (and it probably will). Adjust the buckle to your neck size number (which will be printed on the bowtie's inside band). Then, measure the entire length of the bowtie from end to end. This measurement is what you need in order to find an untied bowtie without a buckle.

When you see one of these vintage "non-buckle" white bowties on eBay, be sure to check that its entire length corresponds to the measurement you took at BBros.


.
Thank you Marc, stellar advice! I should be ready by the next QM. ;)

And thank you, Lady DeWinter for your kind comments. :)
 

Orgetorix

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Louisville, KY...and I'm a 42R, 7 1/2
Marc Chevalier said:
What you need to do is to find out the exact length of bowtie that suits your neck size. How? Get a measuring tape, go to Brooks Brothers (or your closet :)) and find any untied bowtie, even if it has a buckle (and it probably will). Adjust the buckle to your neck size number (which will be printed on the bowtie's inside band). Then, measure the entire length of the bowtie from end to end. This measurement is what you need in order to find an untied bowtie without a buckle..


Good advice. I'd just add that you should do it up first before measuring, to make sure that the size marks on the tie are accurate and right for you. I wear a 16" shirt collar, but my various bow ties of different makes are set at various sizes from 16" to 16 3/4" to get them to look right when they're tied.
 

Hemingway Jones

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Top Hat?

This may be a dumb question, but would I need a midnight blue top hat to go with this? Does such a hat exist? The lapels are black satin, so so much for the sometime adage that black and blue don't go together.
 

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