How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

[MrProper]

I had ordered another Premier Highwayman (natural CXFQHH). But since the status of the order hadn't changed since I placed it, I had enough time to do some soul-searching and decided that I actually already have more jackets than I can wear in the short spring and autumn season. In summer I don't wear jackets, in winter I have shearling.
I'll probably be annoyed at some point that I didn't take the discount, but I've cancelled the order anyway and I'm going to break in the jackets I have. Minimalist rules lol

 

[Marc mndt]

This is a great jacket. PJ 27 View attachment 649438 View attachment 649439 View attachment 649440

Such a nice jacket, one of my favorite Buco designs.

 

[navetsea]

Those pocket flaps are somewhat unique in the world of cowboy shirts. Usually these shirts do not have an offset snap on an asymmetrically cut pocket flap. Never seen 'em like that before your posts.

it is less common, but I think
FlatHead
https://denimhunters.com/productproduct/the-flat-head-western-shirt-10-oz/
Sugarcane
https://www.selfedge.com/sugar-cane?product_id=2951
Taylor stitch
https://www.taylorstitch.com/collec.../western-shirt-in-bleached-indigo-stripe-2304
This brand also has something similar
https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/medium-wash-denim-western-shirt-9923-arv-3382-c1l-west
all have similar looking flap

usually the pocket in this config is also a bit slanted, I like this pocket, can be accessed without opening the snap and can carry pen on the far end of the pocket.

originally I wanted to buy levi's shirt but their stock in my size is empty in local levi's dealer. so I bought from local indonesian brand, the striped beige one is from a brand called Workershield, and this chambray is from brand called Wingman

 

[Aloysius]

Finally did it.

Placed an order for a jacket with one of Savile Row's most experienced tailors today. Originally I was going to go with a much more Outerwear subforum choice in tweed, but when I realized I'd be finishing up the order in early summer, I switched for a navy blazer.

Also ordered some shirts from a similarly experienced shirtmaker; three dressier, one brushed cotton and warm.

 

[Aloysius]

Oh I forgot to mention the main reason I posted about that order… the bespoke flannel shirt costs less than Iron Heart and other makers charge for RTW. So I’d suggest our London members, if they’re already comfortable spending that much, consider making a trip to Sackville Street to visit Stephen Lachter at Kent and Haste and get perfectly fitting shirts.

The firm is obviously still pricey, but being owned by the tailors and shirtmaker themselves, they have no management company overhead as most London clothes shops do and aren’t on the Row itself with its astronomical rents, and actively pass the savings on. This is intentional because they want to be accessible enough that they can get normal long term customers instead of just whales. (So in some cases you have the funny situation of either going to these guys direct or paying more to get stuff made by people they trained.) There are a couple of firms like that now, which is good to see. I think they’re better for preserving the craft.

 

[red devil]

Oh I forgot to mention the main reason I posted about that order… the bespoke flannel shirt costs less than Iron Heart and other makers charge for RTW. So I’d suggest our London members, if they’re already comfortable spending that much, consider making a trip to Sackville Street to visit Stephen Lachter at Kent and Haste and get perfectly fitting shirts.

The firm is obviously still pricey, but being owned by the tailors and shirtmaker themselves, they have no management company overhead as most London clothes shops do and aren’t on the Row itself with its astronomical rents, and actively pass the savings on. This is intentional because they want to be accessible enough that they can get normal long term customers instead of just whales. (So in some cases you have the funny situation of either going to these guys direct or paying more to get stuff made by people they trained.) There are a couple of firms like that now, which is good to see. I think they’re better for preserving the craft.

Thanks for the recommendations, I do need several new formal shirts, I will go visit them when I get back from this trip.

 

[Aloysius]

Thanks for the recommendations, I do need several new formal shirts, I will go visit them when I get back from this trip.

As someone who bought most of his formal shirts during the Boxing Day and July sales, it’s obviously a big jump in price but alas I don’t have the collar size I did at 21… but he charges comparable for bespoke what Turnbull now charges for readymade. (T&A does great work but running big flagship shops in London, New York, and LA obviously adds overhead costs…)

Knowing you though, you’ll go there for some formal shirts, but will come out also having ordered a hitherto unseen field/motorcycle jacket in their house tweed with armour pockets and a scarlet lining that we’ll be amazed at here a few months later.

 

[Biff42]

Oh I forgot to mention the main reason I posted about that order… the bespoke flannel shirt costs less than Iron Heart and other makers charge for RTW. So I’d suggest our London members, if they’re already comfortable spending that much, consider making a trip to Sackville Street to visit Stephen Lachter at Kent and Haste and get perfectly fitting shirts.

The firm is obviously still pricey, but being owned by the tailors and shirtmaker themselves, they have no management company overhead as most London clothes shops do and aren’t on the Row itself with its astronomical rents, and actively pass the savings on. This is intentional because they want to be accessible enough that they can get normal long term customers instead of just whales. (So in some cases you have the funny situation of either going to these guys direct or paying more to get stuff made by people they trained.) There are a couple of firms like that now, which is good to see. I think they’re better for preserving the craft.

I'd love to visit Saville Row for a bespoke suit then off to Northampton for bespoke shoes by Gaziano and Girling and Crockett and Jones. I just need to win the lottery first here in the USA, lol.

 

[Aloysius]

I'd love to visit Saville Row for a bespoke suit then off to Northampton for bespoke shoes by Gaziano and Girling and Crockett and Jones. I just need to win the lottery first here in the USA, lol.

If it's the fit (complete with personal pattern) and good sturdy British fabrics you're mostly after, the off-Row tailors will get you there at half the cost of the Row (or less). The 'compromises' are not really in areas that make a massive difference imo.

IMO a far better use of money than expensive RTW or MTM. Think the price of an Aero jacket and a half, or a Lewis jacket. I've had good experiences with Graham Browne in the City; Connock and Lockie is another one that's extremely well regarded. They are far from the only two.

And don't forget that Northampton has outlet shops at the shoe factories!

 

[red devil]

As someone who bought most of his formal shirts during the Boxing Day and July sales, it’s obviously a big jump in price but alas I don’t have the collar size I did at 21… but he charges comparable for bespoke what Turnbull now charges for readymade. (T&A does great work but running big flagship shops in London, New York, and LA obviously adds overhead costs…)

Knowing you though, you’ll go there for some formal shirts, but will come out also having ordered a hitherto unseen field/motorcycle jacket in their house tweed with armour pockets and a scarlet lining that we’ll be amazed at here a few months later.

Exactly what I noticed recently... RTW fashion clothing has become so expensive that it surpassed custom made tailoring. I don't get it.

Very curious to have their house tweed in hand, thanks

 

[Aloysius]

Exactly what I noticed recently... RTW fashion clothing has become so expensive that it surpassed custom made tailoring. I don't get it.

Very curious to have their house tweed in hand, thanks

I got to handle it and talk to them about it. They had it made with a nice firm temper instead of the more slouchy sweater like tweeds that are popular now. I’ve also seen some projects where they’ve quilted it presumably with some sort of batting for field garments. Endless possibilities!

 

[VansonRider]

Will be interested to see how this jacket turns out. I have been tracking California Creations for an awhile but never pulled the trigger. The leather looks very much like the US Made Co jacket I have.

The US made Co is thicker, but the California Leather Creations is no slouch. The USMade is thicker than my Vanson’s. Not as dense and hard, but I’m sure a caliper would show the USMCo has the thickest hide.

The CLCre. is plenty thick and heavy duty, it’s a real biker jacket for sure. The pockets all close downwards, the wrist zippers lock closed when the tab is down, they use wider spaced stitches for stronger seams, and the list goes on.

They use a thinner leather for the gussets both in the action back and the wrists. The body is quilted but the sleeves are not. Both the sleeves and the pocket bags are made from some kind of heavy nylon, a lot closer to cordura or nylon canvas than taffeta. All the pocket bags do have leather behind the zipper closures though, to prevent any melt through in a slide.

I REALLY like it.

Vansons and other heritage brands make really nice heavy jackets. The CLCr’s feels like a real scum of the earth biker jacket. Heavy only where it needs to be, with thinner materials where it makes sense. It’s a LOT easier to wear, no stiff kidney panel, tumbled leather that’s comfortable, and it’s still an honest piece of protective equipment.

As much as I love my heavy hitters, I left my Vanson Hardcore at home during a trip to Washing State because it’s just too much before I’ve broken it in for a year or two. If I’d had this one, I probably would have brought it. You can stuff it into a backpack without wrestling with it for ten minutes!

I’d say it’s about as ideal a “starter cross zip” as you could ask for. They don’t go for much, they’re really well made with effective patterning, and even if and when you’d decide you want a Cal, a Vanson or similar, this still remains a really nice beater.

 

[Viking752]

The US made Co is thicker, but the California Leather Creations is no slouch. The USMade is thicker than my Vanson’s. Not as dense and hard, but I’m sure a caliper would show the USMCo has the thickest hide.

The CLCre. is plenty thick and heavy duty, it’s a real biker jacket for sure. The pockets all close downwards, the wrist zippers lock closed when the tab is down, they use wider spaced stitches for stronger seams, and the list goes on.

They use a thinner leather for the gussets both in the action back and the wrists. The body is quilted but the sleeves are not. Both the sleeves and the pocket bags are made from some kind of heavy nylon, a lot closer to cordura or nylon canvas than taffeta. All the pocket bags do have leather behind the zipper closures though, to prevent any melt through in a slide.

I REALLY like it.

Vansons and other heritage brands make really nice heavy jackets. The CLCr’s feels like a real scum of the earth biker jacket. Heavy only where it needs to be, with thinner materials where it makes sense. It’s a LOT easier to wear, no stiff kidney panel, tumbled leather that’s comfortable, and it’s still an honest piece of protective equipment.

As much as I love my heavy hitters, I left my Vanson Hardcore at home during a trip to Washing State because it’s just too much before I’ve broken it in for a year or two. If I’d had this one, I probably would have brought it. You can stuff it into a backpack without wrestling with it for ten minutes!

I’d say it’s about as ideal a “starter cross zip” as you could ask for. They don’t go for much, they’re really well made with effective patterning, and even if and when you’d decide you want a Cal, a Vanson or similar, this still remains a really nice beater.

This is a small size California Creations women's jacket but the grain on this one is really nice . And if I found one in this hide I would be all over it.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

My first "new" and custom jacket for quite some time. Just needs the buttons on it.

Should fit well. I had Himel make it very short like my J22, though not quite as tapered due to the different style of jacket.

 

[Aloysius]

Should fit well. I had Himel make it very short like my J22, though not quite as tapered due to the different style of jacket.

I feel like one of the most important signs of maturity in this stuff that we all end up realizing at some point having worn a ton is that we don't have a "magic" measurement for chest/hem/length, because different jacket types will demand a different setup. Of course it follows some expensive mistakes…

Which hides are these?

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I feel like one of the most important signs of maturity in this stuff that we all end up realizing at some point having worn a ton is that we don't have a "magic" measurement for chest/hem/length, because different jacket types will demand a different setup. Of course it follows some expensive mistakes…

Which hides are these?

It does indeed. I've made too many mistakes with custom jackets.

It's mid brown Shinki horsehide and the fur panels are natural off white cowhide panels I supplied myself because I didn't want any brown speckles in the cow fur.

 

[ton312]

View attachment 650907
My first "new" and custom jacket for quite some time. Just needs the buttons on it.

Should fit well. I had Himel make it very short like my J22, though not quite as tapered due to the different style of jacket.

Oh wow. This looks promising. It’s bold and ballsy. I like it!

 

[ton312]

1 of 2 unicorns of a style in my size. Cody rancher!

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Oh wow. This looks promising. It’s bold and ballsy. I like it!

Thanks! Definitely will be my most daring jacket ever.

 

[Mrfrown]

I’ve recently posted a few items to classifieds and have some others coming in.

This black IH N1 should be here tomorrow

Vanson has had the cognac Badalassi and Sevenberry lining in hand for nearing a month, so my special order no-back seam 1” shorter sleeves C2 should be complete in another month or two. Really undecided if i should make the first run in black or cognac but have some time to decide. If enough interest I’ll do both.

Last time I posted regarding the C2, the seam/no-seam convo kinda went wild. I asked Kim about it. She said for their purposes it’s about fitting the 3D shape of the spine. Without the seam there will be a little less space in the upper body area. That’s fine for me as I already found the sized-down 38 quite roomy up top, and I won’t be riding motorcycles any time soon. I suspect the same will be true for anyone not planning to ride.