How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

[Blackadder]

That looks like near new! Beautiful. Rich-Sher is a Top Drawer label. One of the members researched the company. There is a thread here. Nice history information.

I would like to see more about this jacket.

I just finished cleaning and conditioning the jacket. I am pleasantly surprised by the condition it is in. It is supposed to be more worn out than my Grais as evidenced by the torn lining and yet the condition of the leather is as good as my Grais. Neither actually require any conditioning.
You are of course right about the quality. The leather feels thicker than my Grais. In fact, the underarm panels are better than my Grais. I have always thought that manufacturers use a thinner stretched grainy leather on the underarm and side panels but all the panels on this RS seem to be very consistent.

 

[dannyk]

I just finished cleaning and conditioning the jacket. I am pleasantly surprised by the condition it is in. It is supposed to be more worn out than my Grais as evidenced by the torn lining and yet the condition of the leather is as good as my Grais. Neither actually require any conditioning.
You are of course right about the quality. The leather feels thicker than my Grais. In fact, the underarm panels are better than my Grais. I have always thought that manufacturers use a thinner stretched grainy leather on the underarm and side panels but all the panels on this RS seem to be very consistent.

I had a no label cross zip that if I had to guess was 50s. No idea of the brand or even hide, the entire liner was ripped to shreds, and the leather had paint splatter on it. It would have cost hundreds to fix up. To me it wasn’t worth the hassle and I actually sold(super cheap and fair in retrospect) it to a tailor in Toronto who had worked on everything except leather and wanted to try his hand. The leather was the nicest leather I have ever handled. It was thicker than any leather I ever handled from that era. It had just the right amount of grain. The perfect amount of creasing. It was the leather that no one here could argue with. It was perfect in every sense. I venture to guess it was a Rich Sher or Ralph’s Pugh. Even if it wasn’t ever labeled as one it had to of come from one of them knowing what I know now about the leather and product they put out. I have heard nothing but rave reviews of those labeled RS or RP. I will have to keep my eye out for either in my size. I also want to check my emails and find that tailor and see if he was able to fix it up. It deserved a second life. I don’t think I’ll ever find a nicer leather. I did the right thing moving it on to someone who had the talent to bring it back....but I hate not having that leather around.

 

[Goel]

I don't really like cross zips or mandarin collars... but I do kind of like the look of cross zips with mandarin collars. Kind of like a fencing jacket, might do something like that with JL next.

 

[Edward]

I don't really like cross zips or mandarin collars... but I do kind of like the look of cross zips with mandarin collars. Kind of like a fencing jacket, might do something like that with JL next.

My theory is that particular combination originated in Germany. I've seen a lot of thirties half belts and DB buttoned jackets as well from Germany with a mandarin collar, long before the 'cafe racer' straight zip style started to see them appearing more widely in the English-speaking world.

The cross-zip with mandarin collar style really took off in the UK with Lewis launching the Super Monza in 1978; as with earlier designs like the lightning, the UK legion other motorcycle leather companies followed, and like as not for the entirety of them til the end of the eighties, if you saw a serious biker, he'd be wearing something of that ilk. They were much more common than even a Perfecto style back then. Then the 90s and those big, padded jackets with shoulder pads like Judge Dredd came in, and that dominated largely until the arrival of more subtle d30 type armouring and the rise again of the 'retro' gear scene, following the revival in classic looking bikes. Course, most of the big names in the Brit jackets are long gone now, their market having slowly dried up into the eighties, with the death of British motorcycle manufacturing during the seventies alongside the end of the motorcycle as working man's transport, with the rise of the affordable car in the UK from the sixties, really, onwards.

 

[Marc mndt]

The cross-zip with mandarin collar style really took off in the UK with Lewis launching the Super Monza in 1978

According to LL's website D Lewis introduced the style in the late 30s with this Universal Racer MK1

 

[Edward]

According to LL's website D Lewis introduced the style in the late 30s with this Universal Racer MK1

Yeah, the quintessential modern zipped version was from the 70s on, but this pre-war model probably was the first British version of the style - good catch. As I understand it, that was the era when motorcycling really too off in the UK. Hard to believe now there were over eighty different marques in Britain in the 30s, in an industry that just fifty odd years later would be as stone dead as the British car industry by the eighties.

Lewis were definitely the first in the UK (as they were, I believe the first manufacturer of dedicate motorcycle gear in the UK). The German stuff I know less about in terms of whether those jackets were intended specifically for the motorcycle or simply came to be used for that.

Funny to think now how many of those jacket styles have evolved further, back into general fashion wear...

 

[Jin431]

Just received the notice that my Aero Tumbled Cordovan Premier HWM is being shipped. I hope this new Aero jacket will be a right fit this time

 

[Goel]

My theory is that particular combination originated in Germany. I've seen a lot of thirties half belts and DB buttoned jackets as well from Germany with a mandarin collar, long before the 'cafe racer' straight zip style started to see them appearing more widely in the English-speaking world.

I've seen a few of the British ones but not any of the German styles. Some of the button up styles look a little like late 19th/early 20th century military uniforms.

 

[jonbuilder]

My theory is that particular combination originated in Germany. I've seen a lot of thirties half belts and DB buttoned jackets as well from Germany with a mandarin collar, long before the 'cafe racer' straight zip style started to see them appearing more widely in the English-speaking world.

The cross-zip with mandarin collar style really took off in the UK with Lewis launching the Super Monza in 1978; as with earlier designs like the lightning, the UK legion other motorcycle leather companies followed, and like as not for the entirety of them til the end of the eighties, if you saw a serious biker, he'd be wearing something of that ilk. They were much more common than even a Perfecto style back then. Then the 90s and those big, padded jackets with shoulder pads like Judge Dredd came in, and that dominated largely until the arrival of more subtle d30 type armouring and the rise again of the 'retro' gear scene, following the revival in classic looking bikes. Course, most of the big names in the Brit jackets are long gone now, their market having slowly dried up into the eighties, with the death of British motorcycle manufacturing during the seventies alongside the end of the motorcycle as working man's transport, with the rise of the affordable car in the UK from the sixties, really, onwards.

Ross Langlitz was doing then in the mid 40s called it Cascade

 

[Marc mndt]

Coming:

1) Levi's (Aero) Bird of Prey pre-production sample without the screen printed back or fake repairs.

2) Thedi canvas / leather A1.

3) Ralph Lauren D pocket. Judging by the label this jacket is at least 15 years old. Back then RL leather jackets were of decent quality (Not top tier of course). They even made some from horsehide.

4) Field Leathers modified Idaho 2.0

After the YouTube guy posted the FL review, Greg received so many requests for oil tanned / full aniline brown shinki that he decided it was time to order another batch.

I think I'm going for the same design as my first modified Idaho but now in brown with contrast stitching and some small tweaks here and there.

 

[Edward]

I've seen a few of the British ones but not any of the German styles. Some of the button up styles look a little like late 19th/early 20th century military uniforms.

Yes, the military echo caught my attention as well. Entirely plausible they started out as military-influenced fashion before early motorcyclists caught on to the wind-cheating advantages of a fold-over front... Lewis, founded 1892, claim to have been the first dedicated motorcycle-wear company, which is quite possible.... early on, motorcyclists adopted what was practical; which accounts for engineer boots or riding boots, or harness boots in the US, and their British counterpart, which evolved out of horse-riding boots in the main. Notably, even today traditional-looking US motorcycle boots are more likely to have a raised heel like a cowboy boot, whereas the Brit & European boots tend to a flatter heel, as seen on riding boots over here.

Ross Langlitz was doing then in the mid 40s called it Cascade

I wonder was he influenced by Lewis? There'd be a nice symmetry in that, given the 1956-launched Lewis Bronx (even the name!) was very clearly influenced by the American jackets of the period.

 

[jonbuilder]

Coming:

1) Levi's (Aero) Bird of Prey pre-production sample without the screen printed back or fake repairs.
View attachment 305155 View attachment 305156

2) Thedi canvas / leather A1.
View attachment 305157

3) Ralph Lauren D pocket. Judging by the label this jacket is at least 15 years old. Back then RL leather jackets were of decent quality (Not top tier of course). They even made some from horsehide.

View attachment 305158

4) Field Leathers modified Idaho 2.0

View attachment 305159

After the YouTube guy posted the FL review, Greg received so many requests for oil tanned / full aniline brown shinki that he decided it was time to order another batch.

I think I'm going for the same design as my first modified Idaho but now in brown with contrast stitching and some small tweaks here and there.

Those are some nice jackets Marc particularly the Levi Aero

 

[handymike]

@Marc mndt that Thedi is the Mr. French Can Can model.
http://fcancan.blogspot.com/2013/06/i-had-dream-part-1.html?m=1
Great pick up. The RRL is a copy of one of my favorites- a Hercules!

 

[willyto]

Not jacket but Kidskin balmoral boots. After placing the order back in June 2020 with Belafonte Ragtime they are ready to be shipped this week as I just paid today. Made by Clinch/Brass Tokyo in Japan!

I am beyond excited.

@dudewuttheheck definitely not your style as they're very dressy but I can't wait to own a pair of Clinch boots and wear them. I only handled some in Clutch Cafe in London and tried the Mast Trainers.

 

[56DeSoto]

First off, I'm fairly new here, so it's lovely to be able to nerd out on these sort of things. I rolled the dice on an ebay Branded Garments cross-zip. I've always wanted a good one and I'm hoping this will be it! Wish me luck, y'all.

 

[JMax]

First off, I'm fairly new here, so it's lovely to be able to nerd out on these sort of things. I rolled the dice on an ebay Branded Garments cross-zip. I've always wanted a good one and I'm hoping this will be it! Wish me luck, y'all.
View attachment 305449

Methinks you found it. Looks great.

 

[Blackadder]

Not jacket but Kidskin balmoral boots. After placing the order back in June 2020 with Belafonte Ragtime they are ready to be shipped this week as I just paid today. Made by Clinch/Brass Tokyo in Japan!

View attachment 305367 View attachment 305368 View attachment 305370 View attachment 305371 View attachment 305372 View attachment 305373 View attachment 305374 View attachment 305378 View attachment 305379

I am beyond excited.

@dudewuttheheck definitely not your style as they're very dressy but I can't wait to own a pair of Clinch boots and wear them. I only handled some in Clutch Cafe in London and tried the Mast Trainers.

Congrats. Beautiful. Very true to the early Balmoral boots. The other Balmoral are more modern. Even the Stacy Adams fail to capture that early style.

 

[antoine p]

Not jacket but Kidskin balmoral boots. After placing the order back in June 2020 with Belafonte Ragtime they are ready to be shipped this week as I just paid today. Made by Clinch/Brass Tokyo in Japan!

View attachment 305367 View attachment 305368 View attachment 305370 View attachment 305371 View attachment 305372 View attachment 305373 View attachment 305374 View attachment 305378 View attachment 305379

I am beyond excited.

@dudewuttheheck definitely not your style as they're very dressy but I can't wait to own a pair of Clinch boots and wear them. I only handled some in Clutch Cafe in London and tried the Mast Trainers.

Very special! Wear in good health.

 

[56DeSoto]

First off, I'm fairly new here, so it's lovely to be able to nerd out on these sort of things. I rolled the dice on an ebay Branded Garments cross-zip. I've always wanted a good one and I'm hoping this will be it! Wish me luck, y'all.
View attachment 305449

Welp...jacket arrived with a couple undisclosed problems. Awesome leather, but there's pin hole in the collar (not so bad) and a massive, shredded rip in the lining inside one of the arms. Sigh. Just sent the seller a message. I'm not interested in trying to do a repair on this. The search continues...though I wonder if at some point I should stop trying to bargain hunt and do something more...I dunno...new?

 

[jonbuilder]

First off, I'm fairly new here, so it's lovely to be able to nerd out on these sort of things. I rolled the dice on an ebay Branded Garments cross-zip. I've always wanted a good one and I'm hoping this will be it! Wish me luck, y'all.
View attachment 305449

If it fits I say you made out goood