How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

[J Leather Investigater]

Can’t beat the GW Hercules. I supplied the lining. Horween waxy horse.

Love that lining, awsome jacket

 

[regius]

It's exactly that.

And haven't we established that YKK makes LITERALLY the same looking and operating zipper as any other brand of the old? What's there to dislike?

I have a pile of original 70s YKK that was made in the US, very study and high quality zipper in my opinion and I’d not be hesitant to use them on commercial jackets

 

[navetsea]

YKK older zip with cotton tape and rougher tooth is not as robust, the tape is not strong enough and the plastic laminated end near the pin can wear out and then the tape would quickly fraying, newer YKK with I dunno man made tape and plastic infused end (?) is a lot stronger and trouble free the pin area never frayed or worn out, the tape never stretches out, it is a good zip even #5 to me is trouble free on my jackets, I like the slider with paper clip style with leather puller

 

[Claybertrand]

LOL. I have the first one in my watch list! The two way is a non starter as the jacket is short.
To me though I can either use the Talon or YKK but neither one is better or worse than the other. Dena stocks antique brass YKK... the whole process including shipping time is like 4 days so...that’s more than likely what I’ll do.

I've followed this debate from afar. I personally prefer period and country of origin specific zippers when at all possible. Original old stock Talons are strong enough for me to zip up and down on one of many many many jackets I own. None of them is going to wear out by my excessive use with so many other jackets to be put to use.

That said, I certainly can see the logic in NOT shelling out $100 for a NOS zipper (IF you can find one) zipper and another $100 or so in tailoring costs only to have an old zipper fail on you. It's just not happened to me........yet

Anyway, this Hercules (which I was in on but it's too small) CANNOT have a YKK on it. And trust me, it realllllllly should NOT have a #10 on it. In my experience with Vintage jackets, trying to replace the zipper and go up a size can really mess up the look of the jacket. The wider track of a #10 vs a #5 can create problems both with the overlapping track flap, AND with the look of the jacket by making it more of an exposed track MOTO jacket than the jacket it was designed to be back in the day and sold in the catalogs.

I own this jacket in a larger size and having a big old number #10 seems like it wouldn't fit right and might gnaw up the leather with frequent use.

This isn't a know it all comment or a snobby jab at YKK. I acknowledge they make a hell of a zipper and they work GREAT 24/7 like hammering nails day after day. And I know that the average person won't notice. But the average person doesn't seek out and buy a 50-70 year old vintage leather jacket!! It takes a special person with an eye and an appreciation of history and quality to do something like that!!!

I don't mean to come off as patronizing/preaching. You've got a great jacket---GO THE DISTANCE!! Track down a #5 Conmar (first choice) or a Talon.

But if you do get a YKK go with the antique......so its subtle.....

Great jacket though man. Congrats

 

[Claybertrand]

LOL. I have the first one in my watch list! The two way is a non starter as the jacket is short.
To me though I can either use the Talon or YKK but neither one is better or worse than the other. Dena stocks antique brass YKK... the whole process including shipping time is like 4 days so...that’s more than likely what I’ll do.

I bought a couple from this seller to have on hand. This is a cheap and easy option for a Talon. NOS from a seamstress.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-He...276125?hash=item263f363bdd:g:v4AAAOSwlHJeOZ0u

Too short a zipper is a problem. Too long is not. Shortening is simple. You can use Brown or Black Fabric Markers to dye the zipper tape a color that will look more original. #5s are easier to find (not to mention cheaper) and you'll have no issues with it fitting and working in the jacket as if original.

I hope I caught you in time brother!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[handymike]

I think a #8 is the perfect in-between size.

 

[ton312]

I bought a couple from this seller to have on hand. This is a cheap and easy option for a Talon. NOS from a seamstress.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-He...276125?hash=item263f363bdd:g:v4AAAOSwlHJeOZ0u

Too short a zipper is a problem. Too long is not. Shortening is simple. You can use Brown or Black Fabric Markers to dye the zipper tape a color that will look more original. #5s are easier to find (not to mention cheaper) and you'll have no issues with it fitting and working in the jacket as if original.

I hope I caught you in time brother!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I don’t see any difference between a Talon #10 or a YKK #10. If anything the Talon pull looks bigger. A lot bigger in fact. I have both in my closet. Jacket arrives tomorrow. I’ll have a look and see what cooks. No chance in Hell I’ll put a number 5 pocket zipper down the front. Just because it was done that way in the past, doesn’t make it right or useful (clearly b/c it’s shredded to bits). I hate those tiny little pulls. They are weak and prone to snap like chicken bones. I’m not new to this hobby. While I appreciate differing points of view I hold my own in the highest regard, especially with my own stuff. ​

 

[Claybertrand]

I don’t see any difference between a Talon #10 or a YKK #10. If anything the Talon pull looks bigger. A lot bigger in fact. I have both in my closet. Jacket arrives tomorrow. I’ll have a look and see what cooks. No chance in Hell I’ll put a number 5 pocket zipper down the front. Just because it was done that way in the past, doesn’t make it right or useful (clearly b/c it’s shredded to bits). I hate those tiny little pulls. They are weak and prone to snap like chicken bones. I’m not new to this hobby. While I appreciate differing points of view I hold my own in the highest regard, especially with my own stuff. ​

I happen to hold your opinion in pretty high regard myself Ton!! You certainly have a lot of experience and this ain't your first rodeo. I would still reiterate--and this is not my opinion---rather more a factor to consider regarding the look and potential functionality of the jacket---that the upsizing from 5 to 10 could affect those two aspects. I think Dena or another leather expert with experience on these old jackets would be able to finesse it to make it come out alright. And perhaps the Herc will have no issues taking on the wider zipper track. Mine doesn't look super wide.

Just in my experience, when I have gone up from a 5 to a 10 on a vintage non moto jacket, the result has been the chunkier track, slide and pull caused the leather flap covering the track to get some hard wear. It was a flap made to cover a 5 now accommodating a larger 10. In addition, the look of the jacket changed because the track is now an outwardly visible track vs what was a hidden zipper. Subtle difference in one jacket I have but fairly drastic in another. This has been my experience and I wasn't as happy as I would have been had I just stayed with the smaller zippers. To each his own!

Cool half belt find though man. You can't go wrong with a Hercules Half Belt especially in the 50s HH. Looks like you're gettin a nice specimen as well. I look forward to following this acquisition!!

 

[El Marro]

I think a #8 is the perfect in-between size.

Ditto!
When the zipper on my Bootlegger went out after 1 month I had it replaced with a #8 riri. Didn’t overpower the look of the jacket but it was big enough to get the job done.

 

[navetsea]

probably #10 zipper size has less effect on bigger jacket size even make them look more proportional and cooler looking perhaps, in my size however probably 36 (or 34)
#10 zip looks monstrously huge, I only have one on my denim jacket it has paperclip puller so it doesn't look as massive.

 

[Claybertrand]

Ditto!
When the zipper on my Bootlegger went out after 1 month I had it replaced with a #8 riri. Didn’t overpower the look of the jacket but it was big enough to get the job done.

I don't have much experience finding old #8s when looking for vintage zippers. I don't even know if all the old makers made that size since I rarely see them. But it could well be the Goldilocks Zone for Ton wanting to go bigger but perhaps, not too big.

navetsea, that is an interesting point I didn't think much about. I'll bet a Fat #10 traditional pull looks pretty oversized on a 34-36. I don't always like the paperclip pull but it definitely has its time and place. You get the fat track but an understated pull which is cool and on denim no less!!!!!!

Ohhhh the joy of zippers!!!!!!!!!!

 

[El Marro]

I don't have much experience finding old #8s when looking for vintage zippers. I don't even know if all the old makers made that size since I rarely see them. But it could well be the Goldilocks Zone for Ton wanting to go bigger but perhaps, not too big.

I’m not sure about that either and the pull on my riri is quite distinctive and modern. I believe they do offer zippers with more classic and retro pullers.

 

[navetsea]

I don't have much experience finding old #8s when looking for vintage zippers. I don't even know if all the old makers made that size since I rarely see them. But it could well be the Goldilocks Zone for Ton wanting to go bigger but perhaps, not too big.

navetsea, that is an interesting point I didn't think much about. I'll bet a Fat #10 traditional pull looks pretty oversized on a 34-36. I don't always like the paperclip pull but it definitely has its time and place. You get the fat track but an understated pull which is cool and on denim no less!!!!!!

Ohhhh the joy of zippers!!!!!!!!!!

yeah this denim jacket not only is black, it has zipper too, must be an equivalent of labradoodle or maltipoo or other abominations not created by god

 

[Lebowski]

Ditto!
When the zipper on my Bootlegger went out after 1 month I had it replaced with a #8 riri. Didn’t overpower the look of the jacket but it was big enough to get the job done.

For Aero Bootlegger that's surely a great idea, completely agree. I'll possibly do the same with mine. Aero is an european maker (not discussing Brexit)) - so why not use the best european zipper then? Love some Aeros (Bootlegger incl.) but couldn't say the same about Aero's #5 zippers, they're often kind of weak indeed, just not the best repros of Talon to my taste, they'd better think of changing their zipper supplier. But even so Aero Bootlegger is a freaking awesome jacket still, just love it, it's one of my favorite patterns.
As for Riri, this old good Swiss maker should have any classic line in their program I suppose. Nice maker. Very nice.

 

[ton312]

The best thing about a riri zipper is the sound they make. I like them quite a bit too.

 

[handymike]

Yes, someone should get them to make an “Old style” puller. The only one I like at the moment is this:

 

[Lebowski]

The best thing about a riri zipper is the sound they make. I like them quite a bit too.

Yep, Riri sound pleasant and work very good. Good zippers, esp. for repros. Esp. for european repros. SB have quite noticeable advantage before most european competitors over there.

 

[ton312]

I am not afraid to admit when I am wrong. I think a #10 would look dumb on this jacket. It’s a beautiful chunk of HH. I’m in love with it. On the fence about swapping out the liner. It’s a heavy red nylon quilt found on many a sears/Hercules. Almost too warm and sagging out the back.

 

[ton312]

One more shot of the grain. I think this is honestly the nicest vintage HH I’ve ever encountered! I’ve had dozens of Hercs, Wards and Penny’s. This one takes the cake.

 

[Guppy]

I am not afraid to admit when I am wrong. I think a #10 would look dumb on this jacket. It’s a beautiful chunk of HH. I’m in love with it. On the fence about swapping out the liner. It’s a heavy red nylon quilt found on many a sears/Hercules. Almost too warm and sagging out the back.
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Yeah, do the liner. Go nicer.