How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

[ton312]

That's a killer Vanson JJ! Absolutely perfect fit. It appears your recently revoked masculinity badge has been restored. With honors!

 

[jacketjunkie]

Could it be X-150 leather? Super stiff at first and lighter than comp weight, though still substantial. Breaks in like a dream, both in feel and visually. I actually prefer it to comp weight because it is so visually appealing to me as it is used and it breaks in. It definitely becomes your own and will break in differently on different wearers.

On a side note: I have a LW PJ27 inbound.

I'm pretty sure this is regular comp-weight. My Stadium jacket may be made from what they call X-150 these days... back when I ordered it in 2013, it stated the Stadium was made from "special waxed competition weight leather" and from how it looked new and how it broke in, it fits your description.

 

[welltailoredsuit]

Regarding sleeve length I think you should provide aero with your desired sleeve length. Measure a jacket that is a good length for you (and perhaps add half an inch to account for how the sleeves on a leather jacket will crease and shorten). Aero measure sleeves from the shoulder seem straight down to the cuff, so use the same procedure when you measure and you should be all good.

Edit: regarding sizing I would follow Aero’s advice.

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I've been speaking to Holly about my Hooch Hauler order. I've been advised I am a size 38 based on chest and height measurements. I've been to the tailors where I get all my suits made and they have measured my sleeve at 25.5
(and adding 0.5) to give 26 inches. That was using a Burberry trench coat, which is a good fit. I unfortunately don't have any good fitting leather jackets to compare. Holly has advised that I should be OK with a 25 inch based on my height. Perhaps I should meet in the middle and go with 25.5 inches?

One can argue that the trench coat sleeve is a longer style to cover a suit jacket... :-|


Suggestions welcome

 

[Jejupe]

I've been speaking to Holly about my Hooch Hauler order. I've been advised I am a size 38 based on chest and height measurements. I've been to the tailors where I get all my suits made and they have measured my sleeve at 25.5
(and adding 0.5) to give 26 inches. That was using a Burberry trench coat, which is a good fit. I unfortunately don't have any good fitting leather jackets to compare. Holly has advised that I should be OK with a 25 inch based on my height. Perhaps I should meet in the middle and go with 25.5 inches?

One can argue that the trench coat sleeve is a longer style to cover a suit jacket... :-|


Suggestions welcome

There is probably not one sleeve length that is perfect for a person in all possible jacket and coat styles. One factor is garment's shoulder width versus persons actual shoulder width. If jacket's shoulders are wide for you, the sleeves will hang lower and shorter sleeves are sufficient in comparison to a jacket with tighter fitting shoulders.

Ok, but that is not a helpful suggestion.. so I suggest following. Check out Langlitz's measuring guide (here: http://www.langlitz.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/HOW-TO-MEASURE-Jacket-709.pdf ) and measure your arms the way they suggest. Don't try to do it by yourself, you need someone to help you to get this right. This measurement (if measured correctly) will most likely give you the length of sleeve that reaches your wrist bone. For my jacket, I would then add an inch to that, because I prefer my sleeves to be long enough to reach somewhere between my wrist bone and first knuckle of my thumb.

For example for myself, this Langlitz quide measurement is 26,4" and my leather jackets have 26,5" - 27,5" Sleeves.

Side note: if ordering a shearling jacket, I would add also the thickness of the shearling to this calculation because the thickness of the hide affects also sleeve length. For example myself: 26,4" (actual arm length) + 1,1" (personal preference) + 1" (thickness of the shearling) = 28,5" sleeves.

 

[Carlos840]

There is probably not one sleeve length that is perfect for a person in all possible jacket and coat styles. One factor is garment's shoulder width versus persons actual shoulder width. If jacket's shoulders are wide for you, the sleeves will hang lower and shorter sleeves are sufficient in comparison to a jacket with tighter fitting shoulders.

Ok, but that is not a helpful suggestion.. so I suggest following. Check out Langlitz's measuring guide (here: http://www.langlitz.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/HOW-TO-MEASURE-Jacket-709.pdf ) and measure your arms the way they suggest. Don't try to do it by yourself, you need someone to help you to get this right. This measurement (if measured correctly) will most likely give you the length of sleeve that reaches your wrist bone. For my jacket, I would then add an inch to that, because I prefer my sleeves to be long enough to reach somewhere between my wrist bone and first knuckle of my thumb.

For example for myself, this Langlitz quide measurement is 26,4" and my leather jackets have 26,5" - 27,5" Sleeves.

Side note: if ordering a shearling jacket, I would add also the thickness of the shearling to this calculation because the thickness of the hide affects also sleeve length. For example myself: 26,4" (actual arm length) + 1,1" (personal preference) + 1" (thickness of the shearling) = 28,5" sleeves.

Huge +1

Have a look at my database thread, i have sleeves ranging from 25" to 27" and they all reach pretty much the same point of my wrist. The larger the shoulders are, the shorter the sleeves can be.
Sleeve measurement without shoulder width doesn't tell you much about how they are going to fit.

I feel the shape of the sleeves also influence things. A curvier sleeve can usually be a little shorter than a straighter sleeve without being a problem because they ride less when you move your arms forward.

Lastly, i don't know how i feel about sleeve length being recommended based on height... Some tall people have shorter arms than other. There is no direct relation between height and arms length!

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-leather-jacket-database.93804/

 

[Gamma68]

This guy is on its way. Depending on fit and condition, this one might sway me to put my Tauber's CR on the market:

 

[Jejupe]

Just pulled the trigger on this one:

Its brown comp weight Vanson CHP. I’m not sure its right size for me, but the measurements were close enough to take a gamble.

My new Vanson arrived today. Fit is ok but it for sure ain’t no comp weight. Really soft and pliable leather what ever it might be.

 

[oneterrifichog]

This just came in off the bay...It's a little different LW Vest with vintage style lining. It's a seldom worn vest that Stuart made a few years back. I had a buffalo leather J-27 style with the same lining about 6 years ago. I don't believe he has the lining now. It should be a decent riding vest for late summer and fall up in the Tennessee and North Carolina mountains.

 

[JMax]

My new Vanson arrived today. Fit is ok but it for sure ain’t no comp weight. Really soft and pliable leather what ever it might be.

The brown comp weight is much more pliable out the box. Very different qualities in that leather. I have a brown Ike, same thing.

Great jacket btw.

 

[JMax]

Vtg 60's BATES California Highwayman Leather Motorcycle Jacket + Fur Collar 42 M https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/401572435558

In case someone looking for a Highwayman/Model E type jacket.

 

[Jejupe]

The brown comp weight is much more pliable out the box. Very different qualities in that leather. I have a brown Ike, same thing.

Great jacket btw.

This leather is as soft as Schott's naked cowhide or maybe Aero's Vicenza or goat. It also feels lighter than my black comp weight. Would you say your brown comp weight feels like that?

 

[JMax]

This leather is as soft as Schott's naked cowhide or maybe Aero's Vicenza or goat. It also feels lighter than my black comp weight. Would you say your brown comp weight feels like that?

Yessir. When I first purchased it I had your same reaction and reached out to Vanson ready to throttle the person who answered the phone. But it is what it is. I really like the leather now as it provides another option but it is very different from the black CW.

 

[Jejupe]

Yessir. When I first purchased it I had your same reaction and reached out to Vanson ready to throttle the person who answered the phone. But it is what it is. I really like the leather now as it provides another option but it is very different from the black CW.

Ok, thanks!

 

[welltailoredsuit]

Huge +1

Have a look at my database thread, i have sleeves ranging from 25" to 27" and they all reach pretty much the same point of my wrist. The larger the shoulders are, the shorter the sleeves can be.
Sleeve measurement without shoulder width doesn't tell you much about how they are going to fit.

I feel the shape of the sleeves also influence things. A curvier sleeve can usually be a little shorter than a straighter sleeve without being a problem because they ride less when you move your arms forward.

Lastly, i don't know how i feel about sleeve length being recommended based on height... Some tall people have shorter arms than other. There is no direct relation between height and arms length!

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-leather-jacket-database.93804/

Thanks both for your detailed discussion on this. I am likely to go with the standard length, as Holly recommends. I measured some of my other leather jackets and they are 25 inches. I expect that, as you suggest, the shoulders will play a role in the final length of the sleeve, and that is something I can ask Holly about. I'm a bit nervous as it's my first Aero coat, but I know they stand by their products.

 

[Jejupe]

On topic: after yet another one of my impulse purchases I have now 10 jackets coming in.

4 Vansons, 3 Aeros, 1 Cooper and 2 Thedis.

But now I am done for time being! Maybe just one more Thedi and Aero though...

I should also start thinning the herd. I am running out of closet space and I am afraid that my wife will have some permanent damage to her eyes for rolling them so much at my collection.

 

[Gamma68]

On topic: after yet another one of my impulse purchases I have now 10 jackets coming in.

4 Vansons, 3 Aeros, 1 Cooper and 2 Thedis.

But now I am done for time being! Maybe just one more Thedi and Aero though...

You must be single, LOL.

 

[Jejupe]

You must be single, LOL.

See my edited message.

Maybe I will be soon...

 

[tmitchell59]

Californian just arrived. More to come on this "old Goat"

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[willyto]

Californian just arrived. More to come on this "old Goat"

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Is this the recent one sold on Ebay? Jelaous. Wish it had been my size

 

[tmitchell59]

Yes, on ebay. Here is the smaller 30s rendition. Probably a 38. I've thought about selling, not sure I want to let it go.

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