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How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

jonesy86

I'll Lock Up
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4,610
Location
Kauai
Don't forget before / after photos! I'm curious about the result.
I wasn't courageous to do it myself even on a cheap jacket I gave it to a dry cleaner specializing in leather for 20€
Speaking of dry cleaning, I was curious to know what folks thought of dry cleaning these high end jackets. My impression from my reading here is that it was a no no. Is there some down side to having Shinki, Horween,Vincenza, FQHH Chromexel, or the equivilent, steeerhide, vintage suede, goatskin, teacore, etc. dry cleaned?
Do you loose the long built up and valued creases, patina, or personalized form fitting from wear?
Still learning.
Thanks!
 

jonesy86

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,610
Location
Kauai
d
Good luck!

What color are the jackets to start with? You might need two or three coats if you want deep deep black. One coat might give you a pleasing tea-core look though. You can achieve all kinds of effects if you experiment around. I've never dyed a whole jacket, but I've had fun with shoes, boots, and book covers - blotting the dye on with a balled up rag, wiping and smearing with a wet rag after putting the dye on, layering different colors, blotting and smudging little dabs of different shades and different colors to gradually cover the whole piece, lighter and darker areas, using brushes, sponges, rags, and even feathers. I was free to experiment and not worry because they were mostly cheap thrift store things. I did make ghastly mistakes, but could always cover them with more dye, and I just kept on messing around until I liked the effect.

Wear rubber surgical gloves or you will dye your skin too. And be careful, those Fiebings bottles are tall and tippy. I shifted some newspaper one was sitting on once, and now I have permanent stains all over my kitchen table and down the wall.

If you take photos of the process and share them here, you will have a rapt and attentive audience... and thunderous applause! ;)

Have fun!
I saw one video where they recommended doing a once over with isopropyl alcohol, before applying dye. Not sure exactly why. And mixing dye with wax? Or dying, and then finishing with some kind of finishing spray to add shine and luster.
Wont try this with any thing but a beater, but just curious.
Thanks
 

BobJ

Practically Family
Messages
609
Location
Coos Bay, OR
Thanks for the tips! I got the Pro version, Oil Dye which is supposedly even worse. I was actually wondering if I'm supposed to wear gloves while using it!

Black. Wanna dye that Hein Gericke motorcycle jacket which was supposed to look worn out but it actually just looks lame. It's a tremendously good jacket otherwise, one of the best I've had so I figure, once black, it ought to be just perfect. The jacket is gray/dark gray and made from completely unfinished (naked) cow so I think one coat should do the job on this one, but I've bought a large bottle so we'll see. To be honest, I've no fear how it'll turn out because it can't be uglier than it is now.

Does it add shine to the jacket? That's what I'd really want.

As for the second jacket, I was thinking about dyeing that last trucker I posted in the trucker thread. Maybe. Haven't decided yet. I have this idea it would look much cooler... But I dunno.

"Does it add shine to the jacket? That's what I'd really want."

Because the shoes and boots usually had layers of polish, and/or acrylic sealer, I always stripped them first with alcohol and/or acetone, which left the leather dried out. The dye, unfortunately, did not make them shiny again. I used clear (white) shoe polish/cream/wax for that. I don't know if there are any other products that would work batter on a jacket - maybe some spray-on stuff, or leather furniture and auto treatment, like AmourAll.

Hey, I just looked it up, and they have some interesting, and easy to use, products:

http://www.armorall.com/product-advisor

Again, good luck, and curious to see the pics, thanks!

EDIT: Ignore what I just said about AmourAll, and read Woodyear's last paragraph below. His is the voice of experience, mine is just the ramblings of a know-nothing.
 
Last edited:

Woodyear

Familiar Face
Messages
94
No jackets but I just bought some of that Fiebing's leather dye. Have two jackets that I want to dye black. That's practically as having two new jackets on the way. :3

I’ve done this before monitor, you’ll only need 2 coats. If you do one coat you will have spots you missed or which have absorbed less dye and those spots get a weird kind of metallic purplish green hue to them rather than pure black. Also the fiebings gives a weird squeaky styrofoam kinda feel to the leather which is annoying. The oil dye may be a little better I used the regular.

Yeah. None of my other (3) BL's had them. Plus the jacket has some other tricks up its sleeves so to speak

Black body cordo sleeves hmmm? I was hoping you’d do black and cordo two tone on this one.

Thanks for the tips! I got the Pro version, Oil Dye which is supposedly even worse. I was actually wondering if I'm supposed to wear gloves while using it!

Black. Wanna dye that Hein Gericke motorcycle jacket which was supposed to look worn out but it actually just looks lame. It's a tremendously good jacket otherwise, one of the best I've had so I figure, once black, it ought to be just perfect. The jacket is gray/dark gray and made from completely unfinished (naked) cow so I think one coat should do the job on this one, but I've bought a large bottle so we'll see. To be honest, I've no fear how it'll turn out because it can't be uglier than it is now.

Does it add shine to the jacket? That's what I'd really want.

As for the second jacket, I was thinking about dyeing that last trucker I posted in the trucker thread. Maybe. Haven't decided yet. I have this idea it would look much cooler... But I dunno.

You wanna wipe the leather down with isopropyl alcohol beforehand typically to remove the clear acrylic top coat. This top coat is what creates the shine on the leather and seals the pigment finish from leaching and running when wet. With a naked full aniline leather this step isn’t necessary, it’ll drink the dye right up with no issues. In fact be careful you don’t oversaturate it as it can and will seep through the leather onto the lining depending on the thickness. Also it can go through the stitchholes especially and leech to the other side but really only matters if you’re doing a two tone look as I was,

Monitor make sure you cover the zips and zip tape, also the snaps etc. That stuff even dyes metal. Onmy jacket it just turned the hardware to an anodized looking bluish black which is actually really cool. When the dye wears off the hardware it also creates a cool effect, but if you don’t want this kind of thing then you need to find a way to meticulously cover the hardware or I suppose you may be able to wipe it off after with acetone but it may get messy and mess up the finish around the hardware.

d

I saw one video where they recommended doing a once over with isopropyl alcohol, before applying dye. Not sure exactly why. And mixing dye with wax? Or dying, and then finishing with some kind of finishing spray to add shine and luster.
Wont try this with any thing but a beater, but just curious.
Thanks

To get the shine afterwards you need to buy fiebings acrylic sealant called “redolent”. Wipe it on and it’ll seal the pigment in so it doesn’t leach out all over your things or run when it gets wet. It’ll also create a varying level of shine depending on how much you apply. It dries quick, and is totally necessary in my book to have a finished looking product.
 

Jejupe

Practically Family
Messages
957
Location
Finland
Speaking of dry cleaning, I was curious to know what folks thought of dry cleaning these high end jackets. My impression from my reading here is that it was a no no. Is there some down side to having Shinki, Horween,Vincenza, FQHH Chromexel, or the equivilent, steeerhide, vintage suede, goatskin, teacore, etc. dry cleaned?
Do you loose the long built up and valued creases, patina, or personalized form fitting from wear?
Still learning.
Thanks!

I just had two of my second hand Aeros cleaned with company specialized in leather cleaning (one Steer and one HH). I am not exactly sure if what they are doing is "dry cleaning" or not. The owner the company told me that they wash leather garments in machines with some special fluids designed for leather.

pros: Jackets look, smell and feel CLEAN. (one of the jackets had really disgusting cigarette smoke smell in it before it was cleaned. Now the smell is 99% gone.)

pros/cons: Jackets look as new as possible. Process removed all dirt from these jackets. And dirt, of course is part of the patina...

For me this was something I just needed to have done. I cannot wear clothes with someone else's dirt (Patina) in them. My own dirt is of course ok. ;)
 
Messages
16,842
I’ve done this before monitor, you’ll only need 2 coats. If you do one coat you will have spots you missed or which have absorbed less dye and those spots get a weird kind of metallic purplish green hue to them rather than pure black. Also the fiebings gives a weird squeaky styrofoam kinda feel to the leather which is annoying. The oil dye may be a little better I used the regular.



Black body cordo sleeves hmmm? I was hoping you’d do black and cordo two tone on this one.



You wanna wipe the leather down with isopropyl alcohol beforehand typically to remove the clear acrylic top coat. This top coat is what creates the shine on the leather and seals the pigment finish from leaching and running when wet. With a naked full aniline leather this step isn’t necessary, it’ll drink the dye right up with no issues. In fact be careful you don’t oversaturate it as it can and will seep through the leather onto the lining depending on the thickness. Also it can go through the stitchholes especially and leech to the other side but really only matters if you’re doing a two tone look as I was,

Monitor make sure you cover the zips and zip tape, also the snaps etc. That stuff even dyes metal. Onmy jacket it just turned the hardware to an anodized looking bluish black which is actually really cool. When the dye wears off the hardware it also creates a cool effect, but if you don’t want this kind of thing then you need to find a way to meticulously cover the hardware or I suppose you may be able to wipe it off after with acetone but it may get messy and mess up the finish around the hardware.



To get the shine afterwards you need to buy fiebings acrylic sealant called “redolent”. Wipe it on and it’ll seal the pigment in so it doesn’t leach out all over your things or run when it gets wet. It’ll also create a varying level of shine depending on how much you apply. It dries quick, and is totally necessary in my book to have a finished looking product.

Will do as you said! Thank you very much, Woodyear. It should still be a good month until the dye arrive so I've time to plan things ahead. The jacket is full aniline leather, as naked as it gets and it's got no shine at all. Mate gray. I think it's a very high quality leather and even though it does get soaked in the rain, it dries up super quickly without any signs it was ever wet. Even so, I don't mind the jacket is full black. As it is, it kinda looks almost like a textile and I'm not a big fan of that.

The zippers are brass and I'd like them to stay that way. I think they'll look even cooler on a jet black jacket. I guess adhesive tape will take care of them and the snaps.
 

Woodyear

Familiar Face
Messages
94
Yes monitor I think tape should do fine. Also I misspelled the acrylic sealant from fiebings due to auto correct it’s called “Resolene”.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,598
Location
California
I just pulled the trigger on this Buzz Rickson jacket that I have been drooling over on the HPA website for some time now:
IMG_3111.jpg

This will be my first USAF jacket as well as my first Buzz Rickson and I am excited on both counts.
 
Messages
17,509
Location
Chicago

jonesy86

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,610
Location
Kauai
I’ve done this before monitor, you’ll only need 2 coats. If you do one coat you will have spots you missed or which have absorbed less dye and those spots get a weird kind of metallic purplish green hue to them rather than pure black. Also the fiebings gives a weird squeaky styrofoam kinda feel to the leather which is annoying. The oil dye may be a little better I used the regular.



Black body cordo sleeves hmmm? I was hoping you’d do black and cordo two tone on this one.



You wanna wipe the leather down with isopropyl alcohol beforehand typically to remove the clear acrylic top coat. This top coat is what creates the shine on the leather and seals the pigment finish from leaching and running when wet. With a naked full aniline leather this step isn’t necessary, it’ll drink the dye right up with no issues. In fact be careful you don’t oversaturate it as it can and will seep through the leather onto the lining depending on the thickness. Also it can go through the stitchholes especially and leech to the other side but really only matters if you’re doing a two tone look as I was,

Monitor make sure you cover the zips and zip tape, also the snaps etc. That stuff even dyes metal. Onmy jacket it just turned the hardware to an anodized looking bluish black which is actually really cool. When the dye wears off the hardware it also creates a cool effect, but if you don’t want this kind of thing then you need to find a way to meticulously cover the hardware or I suppose you may be able to wipe it off after with acetone but it may get messy and mess up the finish around the hardware.



To get the shine afterwards you need to buy fiebings acrylic sealant called “redolent”. Wipe it on and it’ll seal the pigment in so it doesn’t leach out all over your things or run when it gets wet. It’ll also create a varying level of shine depending on how much you apply. It dries quick, and is totally necessary in my book to have a finished looking product.

Hey @Woodyear, and @Monitor, I am just digging up old posts re. dying jackets. Getting ready for a go at it. Monitor, did you ever dye any of yours? Woodyear, I can't find a product called Fieblings Redolent, but I did see references to Fieblings Resolene. Same stuff?

I was thinking of starting a thread on Dying Leather Jackets. What do you think? Also, do either of you know a good YouTube source for this?

Also, Monitor, as beautiful as is your jacket that started out as raw naked leather, in response to my new
Schott trucker, do you think it would be a shame to dye it black, or should I do a treatment with pecards, and wear it to get the natural patina that we all love? Thanks for your advice.

Peace.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
I just pulled the trigger on this Buzz Rickson jacket that I have been drooling over on the HPA website for some time now:
View attachment 96332
This will be my first USAF jacket as well as my first Buzz Rickson and I am excited on both counts.

Enjoy. I have a Buzz B15C Mod, and would eventually like their regular B15C and L2A to complete the set, as it were. Buzz do lovely stuff. I've always got half an eye out for them doing an N2A, which would be just the dog's unmentionables.

View attachment 97108 View attachment 97109 View attachment 97110 View attachment 97108 My custom Vanson vest arrived today. Very happy with it. Octagon and x-150. Wanted clean vest.

Sorry for double post of one pic, trying to get a handle on uploading from my phone.

Very nice indeed. Are you planning to ride in this, or is it just a casual piece? I've long been tempted by the idea of something like this, with customised, large internal pocket (like the 352nd Fighter group A2 that Eastman reproduced) - something to wear travellingthorugh airports when it's too warm for a leather jacket but you stll need places to keep stuff - passports, plane tickets, wallets - that makes it that much easier when you come to go through security, or you don't want all your bits in your pockets on the plane.
 
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10,631
This will be used to ride when the temps are way too warm for a jacket. Funny, I am also looking for a “travel vest”. This one has enough interior pockets to do the job but much of my travel is to areas where a nice leather vest would lead to a mugging or worse. Or I am in some remote area where I would not consider taking this vest. Thinking a denim or canvas vest, I am open to recommendations.
 

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