How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

[ton312]

Drove over the bridge to visit JL today not really planning to buy something. Tried on this size 44 M-500 in 3.5 oz. Naked Cowhide quilted lining.
P to P 25"
Shoulders 21"
Sleeve 26"
Length 26"
The P to P is big compared to what I usually wear but it felt good, just a little big. The shoulders were big, but it gave me the needed length in the sleeves.
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Al is on vacation but I ended up ordering my first new spec. jacket from a very experienced and nice guy named Craig. I have been talking with Al for a while about his goat which I like very much for a summer jacket but Craig showed me the 2-1/2 to 3 oz. Naked Cowhide and I liked it even better. Ended up taking the shoulders in by 1 inch, and the bottom hem width by 1 inch, and lengthened the sleeves by 1 1/2 inches. I like a relatively loose long fitting jacket but this felt a bit big, boxy and a bit short. I was thinking of going with a 24 inch P to P but tried on the 42 at that measurement and it was small, so Craig suggested taking in the bottom width to make it a bit more trim. I was also going to lengthen it by one inch but changed my mind at the last minute. Went with Black Cotton Lining in the body instead of quilt, and Satin Lining in the arms.

M-500 Size 44
P to P 25 Inch
Shoulders 20 Inch
Sleeve 27 1/2 Inch
Length 26 Inch

No zippers on the slash pockets, #10 YKK Antique Brass main zipper and #5 YKK Antique Brass sleeve zipper.
Instead of Lace Up Sides I went with the Side Tab from the M-200.

Still not certain about the 25 Inch P to P, and am also thinking about adding 1/2 inch in length.

I welcome any comments and suggestions.

I think you need to keep the sleeve and body length and drop down an entire size. The 44" posted above looks huge on you, especially around the shoulders and thru the body. These jackets shouldn't be baggy/relaxed fit. I'd go to a 42" and then add your lengths. 25" p2p is a size 48" or 50" jacket...

 

[Carlos840]

I think you need to keep the sleeve and body length and drop down an entire size. The 44" posted above looks huge on you, especially around the shoulders and thru the body. These jackets shouldn't be baggy/relaxed fit. I'd go to a 42" and then add your lengths. 25" p2p is a size 48" or 50" jacket...

Agreed, although i wouldn't even add length, IMO the sleeves are already a good 2" too long and the body looks good as it is.
Seeing how the 44 fits, a 42 should be close to perfect. Might be a better idea to take the 42 as a base and modify that up, rather than the 44 down.

 

[zebedee]

Here's what I really want- a Teamster, tumbled cordovan mid-weight steerhide, no side adjusters, no bi-swing, storm cuffs and an extra inch on the length with a slightly wider collar.

 

[roadking04]

@ton312, I will keep you posted for sure. I will try and be as honest and accurate as possible. I will also get some pics up. Hopefully get it by next weekend. Needless to say, I am very anxious, excited, and nervous. I am kinda getting a bad feeling about this.

 

[roadking04]

@Hh, I could reside my house with that stuff!!!!!

That leather is WAY beyond the super heavyweight division, that leather is in the SUMO division!!

 

[jonesy86]

I think you need to keep the sleeve and body length and drop down an entire size. The 44" posted above looks huge on you, especially around the shoulders and thru the body. These jackets shouldn't be baggy/relaxed fit. I'd go to a 42" and then add your lengths. 25" p2p is a size 48" or 50" jacket...

Thanks Ton.
Having a jacket made to order with the luxury of being able to try on and spec. the size is a completely different ball game than trying to get the numbers to match with a used jacket online. I tried on the size 42 and it was considerably smaller. I didn't run a tape on it as I could not even zip it up and Craig decided to work from the size 44. Yeah, I think 45 inch P to P is too big, especially as I am pulling the quilted lining and going for cotton. However, the shoulders were draping over quite a bit at 21 inches, and when taken back to 20 Inches shortened the sleeve quite a bit. I would say that my best fitting and most comfortable jacket is one I bought from Carrie off the rack. It is a Aero Half Belt Deluxe size 42.
P to P 24.75 inches
Shoulder 20.25 Inches
Sleeve 27 Inches
Length 26 Inches
Bottom width 23.5 Inches

Also my Heron is a P to P 25. Of course these are not cross zips. I think another drive across the bridge to visit JL when Al is back is in order.
Love the feedback as I am a complete newbie to the bespoke game!
Peace

 

[jonesy86]

Agreed, although i wouldn't even add length, IMO the sleeves are already a good 2" too long and the body looks good as it is.
Seeing how the 44 fits, a 42 should be close to perfect. Might be a better idea to take the 42 as a base and modify that up, rather than the 44 down.

Hey thanks Carlos.
I think you are right on the length at 26 but as mentioned the sleeves were definitely too short when the shoulders were corrected. Have to run sizing up from a 42 when Al gets back.
Thanks again, I greatly value the feedback, keep it coming.
Peace

 

[Carlos840]

Hey thanks Carlos.
I think you are right on the length at 26 but as mentioned the sleeves were definitely too short when the shoulders were corrected. Have to run basing up from a 42 when Al gets back.
Thanks again, I greatly value the feedback, keep it coming.
Peace

Have a look at my database thread, basically IMO everything you remove from the shoulders you should add to the sleeves or vice versa and you maintain the same overall length.
So if you like where sleeves reach you wrist with 26" sleeves and 21" shoulders, but want 20" shoulders, you would probably be ok with 26.5" sleeves and 20" shoulders.
That's the logic i now use and it has been working great for me.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-leather-jacket-database.93804/

 

[jonesy86]

Man, such great feedback and info. Thanks!
[emoji851]


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[Gamma68]

This should arrive later this week:

 

[torfjord]

The 6oz CXLHH is not overly stiff, I can imagine it must be super comfortable to wear something in that thickness.

Is it even possible to make a jacket out of that? I would imagine it’s too thick for that. And even if it was possible the weight must make it super uncomfortable. I’ve made a couple of bags out of leather that are actually thinner than that, and even they tend to get a bit heavy to carry around.

Different strokes for different folks and all, but I don’t think that’s a desirable thickness for a leather jacket.


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[Edward]

Picked up this Carhartt Detroit for $24. Need to figure out how to cover the embroidery above the chest pocket. Maybe another patch or something...
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[ton312]

That would do it!

 

[Edward]

Be interested to hear how you otherwise get on with that Carhartt; I've been tempted by one of those on and off, though they're not common in the UK.

 

[Carlos840]

Be interested to hear how you otherwise get on with that Carhartt; I've been tempted by one of those on and off, though they're not common in the UK.

I got both colours from these guys last year:

https://www.misupplies.co.uk/clothi.../jackets-c24/ej001-duck-detroit-jacket-p49107

Nothing bad to say about the jacket other than the fact that it had more lose threads than anything else i had seen before.
Quick fix with some scissors if that kind of thing annoys you. Other than that they are well made. (mine are both made in mexico)
The fit is pretty snug at the waist and pretty lose in the shoulders, very V shaped. I am pretty athletic and the M fits me great in the waist but is still a bit too large in the shoulders. Probably fits @ton312 perfectly since he is a bit larger up there than i am!

It's not the best fitting jacket, it feels like apes were used as test fitting subjects, but range of motion is great and that's what you want in a work coat. I use the brown one for outdoor work, and keep the black one in my car boot in case i need an emergency jacket.

If you don't have much drop from chest to waist you are going to struggle to fit in it though, it is pretty skinny in the waist compared to chest and shoulders.

Can't comment about durability VS the old USA made ones. My first Carhartt jacket was USA made and it is still going strong after 25 years. These two feel just as well made.

 

[Edward]

Thanks, useful to know - might be one to hold off on until I drop a bit. Interesting to hear these are quite V shaped - they look more Highwayman-boxy on the Carhartt site. Makes sense, though, if they're intended as a utilitarian work jacket that they'd have extra room in the shoulders to accommodate movement rather than an action back or such with a snugger fit.

 

[ton312]

Hopefully I'll have it today! I couldn't pass it up at $24 bucks and I've wanted one for quite some time!

 

[Carlos840]

Thanks, useful to know - might be one to hold off on until I drop a bit. Interesting to hear these are quite V shaped - they look more Highwayman-boxy on the Carhartt site. Makes sense, though, if they're intended as a utilitarian work jacket that they'd have extra room in the shoulders to accommodate movement rather than an action back or such with a snugger fit.

They actually have gussets in the shoulders too.

I just measured an M:

Pit to pit: 23.5”
Back length: 27.5”
Front length: 23.5”
Bottom hem: 20.5”
Shoulders: 20.5”
Arms length: 25.5”

It definitely has a pretty tight bottom hem and pretty wide shoulders compared to the chest.
Its really not the most flattering, but it disappears when you wear it for physical work.

 

[roadking04]

I received some encouraging news from UPS today. Vanson sent out my model "E". According to the UPS tracking, my package weighs 11 lbs!! Still holding out hope that Vanson hasn't compromised.

 

[Harris HTM]

The 6oz CXLHH is not overly stiff, I can imagine it must be super comfortable to wear something in that thickness.

Dude! Although I'd like to convince you out of such an insanity (= an armour made out of it): I have a pair of william lennon's made out of a horween cxl no.8 colour of similar thickness; right out of the box were the most pliable and soft workboots I ever had. Go for it.