How can you tell if a leather jacket is well made?

[apba1166]

This is so subject a comment, I hesitate even making it...First, I have all but GoodWear on your list. One of the first jackets I bought was a Schott in 1982 and still looks great. I also have older Aeros bought second-hand that are awesome. A Vanson bike jacket I never wear--but it's also a cool jacket and build to last; and a LW and to toss in another maker, several Langlitz.
Now, there are two things to consider if you want the jacket to make you happy over a long period, like a piece of leather furniture you are glad to sit in every single time: 1) Fit. The chair has to be comfortable and 2) The chair has to look good, from lines to leather to the unit as a whole. For fit, Langlitz does the best job (I do not have GoodWear, perhaps they are as good--pics I've seen here really impress me with the fit, I think they look great too). My Aeros fit well, and I assume if I had them custom, even better. Next, looks....and here is where I get very subjective: In my opinion, what they would call the "art direction" in the movies--the look of the jacket, the visceral appeal of the how it all works together----of the folks you list, Lost Worlds has that, in my mind--along with Goodwear (only seen, never owned). All the others are great too, but something in the color, grain, knits, small details of it all coming together in a way you like each time, goes to LW. But then, fit may be another matter.

Confused yet?

 

[Navin323i]

If it says made in USA, UK or Japan on the label...

Personally from my own experience I'd add a few more countries to your list, specifically India (yes, believe it or not, India makes some great, high quality leather jackets), France, and Italy.

 

[mimesis2nemesis]

Hey, has anyone got pics of the stitching on said jackets so I can compare to? One of my many problems is that I don't live anywhere near a place where they have these in retail, so I can't see them first hand... Also, I've seen a lot of members here making custom adjustments in their Aeros, like extra pockets, adding a leather piece to the back or shortening/lenghtening the sleeves... Does this have an additional cost or is it FOC?

 

[Dav]

Aero have never charged me for any extras like inside pockets,lengthening,shortening or lining choice but they do charge for the extra leather strip round the bottom. Apparently from what I've heard Will doesn't like adding the extra strip so charges for it.

 

[Edward]

You should also look at the lining of the jacket, you would be looking at nice smooth silk lining to wool or thick woven cotton twill, try to avoid nylon or polyesters ones (that's my own preference....).

It's always going to be something to judge on a jacket by jacket basis, overall, IMO. I've seen some amazing jackets with fantastic hide from total no-name makers, though, of course, the high end boys score with consistency of product quality. That said.... You're onto something interesting there mentioning lining. While it certainly is a matter of personal preference, I do find that cheap, lower quality jackets do tend to have a nasty, thin polyester lining, while cotton, wool, gaberdine - all the classier stuff - tends to show up on better jackets. I'd hesitate to draw too many hasty conclusions based on lining alone, but it's certainly one factor that can help you build up the overall picture.

Thank you for the help! I've been thinking about this A LOT (Even more than your average Leather Jacket collector) And, by reading a lot of testimonials I have narrowed down my option6s to the following: Aero Leather Clothing, Vanson Leathers, Schott NYC, Lost Worlds, and of course, Goodwear Leather. Only problem with the last 2 is the price... I've been saving for this one for a real long time, and I prefer to buy it new than used... But my absolute top budget considering my current financial status is somewhere around 570 lbs, including shipping, which is gonna be quite expensive as well considering where I live... To the ones that own a jacket from at least 2 of this brands... how would you choose? I'm gonna order it if everything goes as well as I hope, I'll place my order in January or February next year.

That pretty much rules out the high end US stuff - at least on the new market. Are you in the UK, then, if you're thinking in pounds? I was right about to pull the trigger on a Goodwear A2 myself when the value of the pound crashed against the dollar and almost overnight the jacket went up in price in real terms for me from gBP400 to about GBP600! you can't beat Goodwear for quality, BUT I'd wait until the price comes down....

Given the styles of jacket in which you are interested and your budget, I would suggest Aero as as good option. Keep an eye on their sales page - you can often save a fair bit if what you want turns up there. Recently they had a new Thirties halfbelt going for £350 on there (regular base price being £500). As I understand it, their sale jackets, unless specifically marked as used, tend to be new ones that have been sent back for not fitting correctly. Keep an eye on eBay too - last month I found a used Aero mc (their basic Brando style jacket), worn maybe once, for GBP£250 - half price, and good as new. It's Aero's steerhide, which is lovely stuff. Now, there's a thing too - Aero have a (justly earned) reputation for outstanding quality horsehide; my instinct based on experience and intuition tells me that when it comes to used jackets, this has the result that their steerhide jackets tend to sell for a little less. If you don't much care one way or the other, that might be a good way to save a bit of cash.

Do keep an eye on anything and everything on eBay too... a few years ago, wanting a black leather jacket to wear to the office on occasion (a Brando style being likely to look a bit 'affected' in that environment), I fell in with a US-made cafe racer labelled "Route 66" for about thirty pounds; sold it again a year or two ago for around the same. Lovely quality jacket, really nice cowhide, zip out quilted body liner piece. The satin lining was a bit on the thin side - never gave me a problem, though I should think heavy wear would lead to it needing patched or replaced in a few years. Still, at that price....

If you don't mind me asking, are you on the petite side, or just young? You seem to be looking for quite a small size - if you're still growing I'd highly recommend buying something half decent used and not worrying about a premium jacket until you're stopped growing. Really, it's over the long term - like ten years and more - that you get the full benefit of a premium jacket, imo.

OK, I currently own at least one of all the brands you mentioned except GW (which I've read many great things about, but can't speak to from direct experience, so I won't say any more about them). My pick, from the brands I have experience with, would be Lost Worlds... no question about it. LW quality is simply better than the other brands you mentioned. First indication is number of stitches/inch (higher for LW than any of the others on your list), but that can be misleading, and is really the weakest indicator in this case. The real indicators are quality leather (all the brands on your list have good leather, but LW and Aero have outstanding leather), straightness and uniformity of sewing, and attention to detail... and LW clearly leads the pack in every item except leather (The decision for best leather between LW and Aero is completely subjective, and I can't make up my mind). The stitches are in-line (not oblique), completely uniform in distance from an edge, and the curvature of seams and hems are absolutely regular. The lining does not sag and has no creases (not even tiny ones) where it joins the leather. No loose threads or dangling loose ends (shoddy work, lack of attention to detail). Seams are square at the corners and the leather/fabric is cut precisely to avoid bunching. What you're really looking for is quality materials, precision and uniformity of execution in construction (close details!), and a well-thought-out design. Omitting GW from your list for reasons mentioned above, LW wins easily... and some great bargains can be found on the Sale page of the website.

That's my free advice, anyway (and worth every bit of the price, lol). Whatever you decide, good luck, and enjoy! There really aren't any losers on your list of potentials, though Schott's leather doesn't really measure up to the rest of the pack, and Vanson quality has been a bit spotty of late from what I've seen. Obviously, there is a price component in the quality range, so I can't knock them too much.

I missed the comments that have been edited out, but I can imagine.... Stuart at LW may have a reputation for being rather.... eccentric in his views, but I can't fault the quality of his product. My understanding is that he and Aero both use the same FQHH? LW jackets - the Buco copies in particular - I know folks who have owned those and they are heavy. I like armour-like leather, but YMMV. If you're outside the US, though, again LW can be kinda pricey (bearing in mind also customs fees).

Back to the topic, I don't want to get caught the heated discussion..... If you want to fetch out a little bit more money, try looking at Lewis Leather in the UK or Langlitz Leather in the US.

But judging from your budget and your requirement for kind of the biker/cafe racer type of jacket, I would strongly recommended Vanson and Aero. The trouble is, they have slow turnover because they are almost made to orders. Vanson may have some off the shelf jackets though. Schott is also a good choice as they have a good history, but just make sure you order their Made in the USA Perfecto range, the same applies for Vanson. I think for Vanson, their typical USA made jackets (most of them) all have sizes with chest measurements, while their non USA range usually have S,M,L, XL kind of sizings. hope this helps.

All agreed!

 

[Edward]

Personally from my own experience I'd add a few more countries to your list, specifically India (yes, believe it or not, India makes some great, high quality leather jackets), France, and Italy.

Here in the UK, India and Pakistan are the major sources of 'mall quality' leather jackets, and I'll tell you what.... with care, I have found some of them to be outstanding for the money. I have a Brando style that was made out that way, bought from a US eBay merchant back in 2002 for £70 odd plus postage. Leather Paradise was the business, and the guy I dealt with on email was called Alex - really helpful guy (if you go there, maybe consider going up a size - I'm 42R in a suit, my Aero is 42R, but I needed a 44 in that jacket). I still have it (as of last February it is adorned with Black Rebels "colours" and a "Johnny" legend ). It compares surprisingly well to my Aero. The Aero is clearly superior, but the cheaper jacket certainly doesn't disgrace itself by comparison. If I was still growing, or it was a jacket unlikely to get much wear.... it'd be hard to go past it. Cowhide, again. I owned another Indian produced jacket years ago - more of a boxy, Highwayman style. Nice jacket, again relatively cheap (seventy pound mark). I think it was cow too, though it might have been goat... Never seen anything outside the top end stuff that was horse (obvious reasons, really). Horse isn't necessarily better than cow or goat; which you go for is more of as personal preference, really.

Hey, has anyone got pics of the stitching on said jackets so I can compare to? One of my many problems is that I don't live anywhere near a place where they have these in retail, so I can't see them first hand... Also, I've seen a lot of members here making custom adjustments in their Aeros, like extra pockets, adding a leather piece to the back or shortening/lenghtening the sleeves... Does this have an additional cost or is it FOC?

When I ordered my Bootlegger, I made a few mods - button cuffs, two internal G1 style pockets, tartan wool lining, throat latch, zip on the chest pocket... no extra charge for any of them. This was pre-price increase, though. The new website lists a "base price", so I imagine they may charge for some extras. The impression I had was that they will charge for work that requires additional cost / time to them, less so for minor alterations to the design (one cuff type instead of another). Best bet, though, if you're going to buy an Aero is to drop Amanda a line and ask her, she'll be able to tell you exactly.

 

[Fletch]

OK, I currently own at least one of all the brands you mentioned except GW (which I've read many great things about, but can't speak to from direct experience, so I won't say any more about them). My pick, from the brands I have experience with, would be Lost Worlds... no question about it. LW quality is simply better than the other brands you mentioned. First indication is number of stitches/inch (higher for LW than any of the others on your list), but that can be misleading, and is really the weakest indicator in this case. The real indicators are quality leather (all the brands on your list have good leather, but LW and Aero have outstanding leather), straightness and uniformity of sewing, and attention to detail... and LW clearly leads the pack in every item except leather (The decision for best leather between LW and Aero is completely subjective, and I can't make up my mind).

If LW offered some choice in their Famous Legendary Hard@ss Horsehide - maybe a little lighter weight, maybe different tannings, definitely different russet browns - I think they might have the edge. As it is, they have only done different colors and weights for offshore retailers, not under their own name.

 

[mimesis2nemesis]

When I ordered my Bootlegger, I made a few mods - button cuffs, two internal G1 style pockets, tartan wool lining, throat latch, zip on the chest pocket... no extra charge for any of them. This was pre-price increase, though. The new website lists a "base price", so I imagine they may charge for some extras. The impression I had was that they will charge for work that requires additional cost / time to them, less so for minor alterations to the design (one cuff type instead of another). Best bet, though, if you're going to buy an Aero is to drop Amanda a line and ask her, she'll be able to tell you exactly.

Well, I just sent AERO a mail through their "contact us" feature. In the case of Miss Amanda, do you use any e-mail to contact her directly?

 

[TheSnark]

If LW offered some choice in their Famous Legendary Hard@ss Horsehide - maybe a little lighter weight, maybe different tannings, definitely different russet browns - I think they might have the edge. As it is, they have only done different colors and weights for offshore retailers, not under their own name.

Some people complain that LW HH is just too stiff and difficult to break in, but I love it. Nothing else develops the deep, laser-sharp grain that's practically a LW trademark. I've found that a LW jacket will break in quite nicely with 6 months or less of regular use (maybe I should mention that I'm not just a weekend rider, so my jackets get a lot of hard use in 6 months, even when used in rotation with other jackets), and tough enough to abuse in reckless fashion (apparently nothing short of C4 explosive can damage the stuff ).

I believe that Edward wondered earlier if Aero and LW used the same FQHH, and I can clarify that a tiny bit (but not completely): It is my understanding that both Aero and LW sources their HH from the Horween tannery, but it's definitely NOT the same leather. So far as I know, the HH used by Aero and LW are unique to each company... each with it's own signature characteristics. While you would never really mistake one for the other when seeing them "in the flesh" (not just a photo), both are of outstanding quality, and deciding which is "better" can only be a subjective preference. I've tried many times to find some way to rate one over the other, but the contest always ends in a draw... I love them both, though they are quite distinctly different in appearance and texture.

 

[1087]

It is my understanding that Lost Worlds does not get their HH from Horween. Stuart confirmed that several times in our phone conversations.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

It is my understanding that Lost Worlds does not get their HH from Horween. Stuart confirmed that several times in our phone conversations.

In any event...they are,indeed,quite different. Most LostWorld HH jackets..that I have owned..have a very heavy finish compared to Aero's HH. Evidentally quite different dye and finishing techniques. I would discribe the two differ as comparing a solid stain vs semi-transparent stain(on wood). LW HH often has a uniform pebble grain sometimes with verticle stretchmark type patterns rather than the marbled grain on many of Aero's HH jackets. Of course the wear of the two hides are quite different as well...from my experience. I prefer the charactor of a well worn Aero HH jacket than an almost too bulletproof finished on LWs. I do agree..the HH used is certainly unique to each company.

 

[ButteMT61]

Sadly, given my size, I've been shot down by Good Wear and Lost Worlds. Pretty disappointing. I mean, they make horses and cows bigger than me, so can they not really get hides big enough for me? I'm a 50-52L. I come in at 6'-4", 240. Not a fat guy, just big. I can't believe that I'm that much of a freak in the custom jacket world!
Anyone have any other suggestions? Other than shrinking

 

[mimesis2nemesis]

Just to clarify a few points... I'm not anywhere near the UK, I'm actually from Mexico. I am both on the petit side, being 5'4" and currently weighting somethig around 110 and 115 lbs, currently 21 years old. I don't think I'll grow more (vertically, that is!) and I think in british pounds because it's easier for me to make the conversion. The truth about my budget is that I'm a student on a very tight budget, yet, I don't really mind spending that money (That I've been saving up since the very beginning of the year) because it's something I simply love. =D Besides... I want that to be the only "premium" jacket in my wardrobe and very possibly the ONLY one I'll ever have, so why not have the best?

 

[1087]

In any event...they are,indeed,quite different. Most LostWorld HH jackets..that I have owned..have a very heavy finish compared to Aero's HH. Evidentally quite different dye and finishing techniques. I would discribe the two differ as comparing a solid stain vs semi-transparent stain(on wood). LW HH often has a uniform pebble grain sometimes with verticle stretchmark type patterns rather than the marbled grain on many of Aero's HH jackets. Of course the wear of the two hides are quite different as well...from my experience. I prefer the charactor of a well worn Aero HH jacket than an almost too bulletproof finished on LWs. I do agree..the HH used is certainly unique to each company.

I agree , they used quite different HH independently of the tanneries.
Up to this point I own LW jackets and I hesitant to order from Aero, because the swatches samples that I have does not fully satisfied me ( off course that's just my opinion and in no way is intent to discredit Aero at all)..
But the swatches looks like it have a dull plastic coat with not grain at all, but after I bend it few times immediately shows the marble grain that you mentioned, too fast too soon.Nevertheless they are exceptional leather hides, and as you may know it's all in the eye of the beholder.

 

[HighandDry]

You guys should give Langlitz a call. My cafe style jacket is my best fitting jacket. If you go to their website, it seems that there are not very many options of styles, but in reality there are many different options that you can have. They aren't cheap, but the leather quality and workmanship are high.

Also, they give you a date that it will be ready by and they stick to it.

 

[1087]

Sadly, given my size, I've been shot down by Good Wear and Lost Worlds. Pretty disappointing. I mean, they make horses and cows bigger than me, so can they not really get hides big enough for me? I'm a 50-52L. I come in at 6'-4", 240. Not a fat guy, just big. I can't believe that I'm that much of a freak in the custom jacket world!
Anyone have any other suggestions? Other than shrinking

Maybe, you have to double check with Lost Worlds, because they do offering your size as a custom order but at a higher price than their regular sizes.

 

[ButteMT61]

A few of my moto-riding friends have Langlitz. Nice jackets.
Do many makers offer sample swatches?

 

[ButteMT61]

Maybe, you have to double check with Lost Worlds, because they do offering your size as a custom order but at a higher price than their regular sizes.

No, they emailed me and really were not interested. Odd no?

 

[HighandDry]

Butte, Langlitz will mail you samples of the leather. Just give them a call.

 

[1087]

You guys should give Langlitz a call. My cafe style jacket is my best fitting jacket. If you go to their website, it seems that there are not very many options of styles, but in reality there are many different options that you can have. They aren't cheap, but the leather quality and workmanship are high.

Also, they give you a date that it will be ready by and they stick to it.

Great looking jacket Sir!
Langlitz is top notch . no doubt about it.
You are correct you can have as many options as you want, but they promote cowhide and goatskin only.They discourage the HH as an option here in US.
They charge $2000 for any HH jacket here in US.
Their HH is not better than LW or GW or Aero, hence it's not worth to pay 2K for a HH Columbia or Cascade.
Funny enough they sell a significant amount of HH jackets in Japan at that price.