How can you tell if a leather jacket is well made?

[mimesis2nemesis]

Hello all, still gathering information here in the forum. I have stated before that Leather jackets are my absolutely favorite piece of clothing and currently I'm in the process of saving up to buy a premium (not to mention expensive ) leather jacket. I've seen some members posting here that some of their jackets "feel very well made" so I have a question, particularly to the leather experts... is there any certain way to know or a least infer how long will a jacket last? What do I have to look for when I consider making a purchase? Thank you very much for the help.

 

[mattfink]

If it says made in USA, UK or Japan on the label...

 

[Papa M]

Ask me in 50 years time!

 

[Edward]

I don't claim to be an expert, but when it comes to leather I look for the following:

1] the hide itself - does it 'feel' good? (The more experience with leather you have, the more this will become an instinctive thing... of course, not always an option buying online.... don't pay premium for an unknown quantity unless they have a very good returns policy and it won't cost you an arm and a leg to ship back....). Things I look for here are whether it feels 'supple' or cardboard-stiff. Stiff like Front quarter horse is to begin with isn't bad, but I don't like that very dry stiffness that feels like it would tear easily (very cheap denim is similar). I like thick leather that feels like it could take a few knocks (my formative experiences were with bike leathers, which has coloured my preferences!). Full grain leather I prefer, with no felt backing. I tend to avoid lamb (aside from gloves) as I'm too afraid of tearing it, but you might like it - a lot of folks (including our own Doctor Strange) swear by their lamb Indy jackets as being just great for warmer weather wear when most other leather is just too much.

2] fit - does it hang like a box, or a sack, from the shoulders down, or does it have a nice, tailored cut? This can come down as much to preference as anything too, but generally - especially if you want a functional bike leather, or simply a jacket with a more accurate 30s / 40s look to it - something that fits the body better rather than a blousey, one-size-covers-all-bodytypes will look much classier. (Not to be crude, but sort of the man equivalent of a larger busted lady putting on a dress - the dress that hugs her figure will be considerably more flattering than on that hangs straight down from her bosom making her look much larger and shapeless).

3] The stitching. This is usually the first thing to give way on cheaper products. It's an obvious (and less noticeable) way of reducing costs in production, but over time quality stitching will be obvious. Harder to spot than the other things, but I'd be looking at the 'neatness' (or otherwise) of the stitching, weight of thread (insofar as you can see it) and so on.

4] Brand reputation. I cannot overemphasise the importance of taking a particular jacket on its own, individual merits, but a known brand like an Aero or Eastman can given you some idea of the level of quality and durability you can expect as compared to an unknown brand. I wouldn't rely on this alone, but it can be a helpful part of the overall picture, not least when you're buying online and don't have the chance to try on / examine the jacket in person first. All other things being equal, you'll also find that while doubtless buying used a known brand like Aero will be a bit more expensive, it will also be much easier to get an idea of its market worth in advance (past eBay sales of the same model, for example), and ensure you don't overpay. And then there's enhanced resale should you ever sell. Again, no guarantees as such, but helps you put together the overall picture.

 

[Edward]

If it says made in USA, UK or Japan on the label...

I don't know, I've seen some pretty shoddy stuff from at least the first two.... Agree that manufacturers based in those countries tend to be specialist manufacturers more likely to be catering to high-end, niche markets, but IMHO it's rather a stretch too far to take that simple geographical point of origin as evidence of quality. [huh]

 

[Justhandguns]

If it says made in USA, UK or Japan on the label...

I hate to agree with these, but it is very true.

But I guess in general, Edward is absolutely right. But to add to that, there are mainly two main categories of leather jackets, those which made by fashion brands and those made by traditional/reputable leather specialists. Both have their own supporters.

In addition, I think a well made leather jacket should have good matching hides, say, the two halves of the jackets should have similar patterns/grains and matching colours. This is very important as I have come across some nice jackets where one side of the jacket remains shinny while the other side just had dull and grainy surface. The stitching should also be uniform through out, seams should also be well made and stitched together. They should be stiff enough as we prefer mostly snug fit jackets. You should also look at the lining of the jacket, you would be looking at nice smooth silk lining to wool or thick woven cotton twill, try to avoid nylon or polyesters ones (that's my own preference....).

I would also prefer leather jackets which are finished by individual tailors, and not made in kind of a factory line. You get more consistency in terms of stitches and finishing.

 

[EmergencyIan]

Hello all, still gathering information here in the forum. I have stated before that Leather jackets are my absolutely favorite piece of clothing and currently I'm in the process of saving up to buy a premium (not to mention expensive ) leather jacket. I've seen some members posting here that some of their jackets "feel very well made" so I have a question, particularly to the leather experts... is there any certain way to know or a least infer how long will a jacket last? What do I have to look for when I consider making a purchase? Thank you very much for the help.

Order one from Good Wear Leather. You'll own a well made leather jacket, for sure.


- Ian

 

[Tomasso]

If it says made in USA, UK or Japan on the label...

Funny, the finest leather jackets I've ever seen are from France. And many (most?) of the very, very best tanneries in the world are also located in France. Unless you're specifically talking of flight jackets, in which case...never mind.

 

[Justhandguns]

How about Italy?

 

[mimesis2nemesis]

Thank you for the help! I've been thinking about this A LOT (Even more than your average Leather Jacket collector) And, by reading a lot of testimonials I have narrowed down my option6s to the following: Aero Leather Clothing, Vanson Leathers, Schott NYC, Lost Worlds, and of course, Goodwear Leather. Only problem with the last 2 is the price... I've been saving for this one for a real long time, and I prefer to buy it new than used... But my absolute top budget considering my current financial status is somewhere around 570 lbs, including shipping, which is gonna be quite expensive as well considering where I live... To the ones that own a jacket from at least 2 of this brands... how would you choose? I'm gonna order it if everything goes as well as I hope, I'll place my order in January or February next year.

 

[derleicaman]

I currently own 1 Aero A-2, 4 ELC jackets ( 3 A-2s and a Luftwaffe), and a GW A-2. Had a Lost Worlds A-2 for a while and a couple of Gibson and Barnes A-2s. What jacket type are you looking for? This can make a difference. Of the A-2s I have owned or own, the ELC and Goodwear are by far the best. The Aero is a beautiful jacket, but I think they have problems with getting the torso right on the A-2. The Lost Worlds leather feels like it would take 15 years to break in. If you're looking for a different style of jacket, I can't offer any guidance other than Aero, GW and ELC are all high quality brands.

 

[ButteMT61]

I currently own 1 Aero A-2, 4 ELC jackets ( 3 A-2s and a Luftwaffe), and a GW A-2. Had a Lost Worlds A-2 for a while and a couple of Gibson and Barnes A-2s. What jacket type are you looking for? This can make a difference. Of the A-2s I have owned or own, the ELC and Goodwear are by far the best. The Aero is a beautiful jacket, but I think they have problems with getting the torso right on the A-2. The Lost Worlds leather feels like it would take 15 years to break in. If you're looking for a different style of jacket, I can't offer any guidance other than Aero, GW and ELC are all high quality brands.

How do you like the Barnes? Looking at their site and videos, they look good, but not like the Aero or Lost Worlds items.
Might be the presentation, but I'd like your opinion as an owner please?

 

[PhilR]

Thank you for the help! I've been thinking about this A LOT (Even more than your average Leather Jacket collector) And, by reading a lot of testimonials I have narrowed down my option6s to the following: Aero Leather Clothing, Vanson Leathers, Schott NYC, Lost Worlds, and of course, Goodwear Leather. Only problem with the last 2 is the price... I've been saving for this one for a real long time, and I prefer to buy it new than used... But my absolute top budget considering my current financial status is somewhere around 570 lbs, including shipping, which is gonna be quite expensive as well considering where I live... To the ones that own a jacket from at least 2 of this brands... how would you choose? I'm gonna order it if everything goes as well as I hope, I'll place my order in January or February next year.

You should add Johnson Leather in San Francisco to your short list. In addition to being a well regarded & high quality leather jacket maker, their prices tend to be about 20-30% cheaper than the others you have mentioned. They will also do custom work for a just bit more money than their off-the-rack jackets.

 

[derleicaman]

How do you like the Barnes? Looking at their site and videos, they look good, but not like the Aero or Lost Worlds items.
Might be the presentation, but I'd like your opinion as an owner please?

The Gibson and Barnes I had was one of their historic A-2 models. It was a beautiful jacket and a shame to sell it, but it was too small on me. The workmanship was first rate, nice materials, a quality product. Not 100% accurate like Goodwear or ELC, but very nice. They have a more generous cut than GW or ELC or even Aero for that matter. Look on youtube.com. They have some videos on there about their jackets. There is also a review by one of the members on VLJ.

 

[mimesis2nemesis]

I currently own 1 Aero A-2, 4 ELC jackets ( 3 A-2s and a Luftwaffe), and a GW A-2. Had a Lost Worlds A-2 for a while and a couple of Gibson and Barnes A-2s. What jacket type are you looking for? This can make a difference. Of the A-2s I have owned or own, the ELC and Goodwear are by far the best. The Aero is a beautiful jacket, but I think they have problems with getting the torso right on the A-2. The Lost Worlds leather feels like it would take 15 years to break in. If you're looking for a different style of jacket, I can't offer any guidance other than Aero, GW and ELC are all high quality brands.

Mostly what I'm looking for are Cafe Racer/ Vintage Rocker/ Half Belt styles. And preferably in XS sizes (About 34 Short). Your advice is welcome!

 

[TheSnark]

...I have narrowed down my option6s to the following: Aero Leather Clothing, Vanson Leathers, Schott NYC, Lost Worlds, and of course, Goodwear Leather. Only problem with the last 2 is the price.... To the ones that own a jacket from at least 2 of this brands... how would you choose?

OK, I currently own at least one of all the brands you mentioned except GW (which I've read many great things about, but can't speak to from direct experience, so I won't say any more about them). My pick, from the brands I have experience with, would be Lost Worlds... no question about it. LW quality is simply better than the other brands you mentioned. First indication is number of stitches/inch (higher for LW than any of the others on your list), but that can be misleading, and is really the weakest indicator in this case. The real indicators are quality leather (all the brands on your list have good leather, but LW and Aero have outstanding leather), straightness and uniformity of sewing, and attention to detail... and LW clearly leads the pack in every item except leather (The decision for best leather between LW and Aero is completely subjective, and I can't make up my mind). The stitches are in-line (not oblique), completely uniform in distance from an edge, and the curvature of seams and hems are absolutely regular. The lining does not sag and has no creases (not even tiny ones) where it joins the leather. No loose threads or dangling loose ends (shoddy work, lack of attention to detail). Seams are square at the corners and the leather/fabric is cut precisely to avoid bunching. What you're really looking for is quality materials, precision and uniformity of execution in construction (close details!), and a well-thought-out design. Omitting GW from your list for reasons mentioned above, LW wins easily... and some great bargains can be found on the Sale page of the website.

That's my free advice, anyway (and worth every bit of the price, lol). Whatever you decide, good luck, and enjoy! There really aren't any losers on your list of potentials, though Schott's leather doesn't really measure up to the rest of the pack, and Vanson quality has been a bit spotty of late from what I've seen. Obviously, there is a price component in the quality range, so I can't knock them too much.

 

[Corky]

How can you tell if a leather jacket is well made?

The first thing I look at is the quality of the leather.

Take some time to acquaint yourself with the different types and grades of the various leathers.

And especially learn how leather from different parts of the hide looks, feels, smells, and reacts to various stimuli like heat and moisture.

I spent years working with leather as a craft and picked up a lot of first-hand knowledge and experience that would be hard to learn from a book. I am not aware of a shortcut that you could use to acquire that knowledge.

Once you have determined (by vision, touch, smell, and observing what if any color changes take place when the leather is wet) that a jacket was made from a decent grade of leather, and that it was made with leather from the back, front quarter, or possibly the sides of the animal (and NOT from the belly leather), then look at details like the cut, the stitching, and the hardware.

Knowing the reputation of a jacket's manufacturer might be helpful, but I would say that once a jacket has met the criteria listed in the previous paragraph, try it on. And if it feels right, wear it around for a while, then pay the Man, and wear it home.

 

[Justhandguns]

Mostly what I'm looking for are Cafe Racer/ Vintage Rocker/ Half Belt styles. And preferably in XS sizes (About 34 Short). Your advice is welcome!

Back to the topic, I don't want to get caught the heated discussion..... If you want to fetch out a little bit more money, try looking at Lewis Leather in the UK or Langlitz Leather in the US.

But judging from your budget and your requirement for kind of the biker/cafe racer type of jacket, I would strongly recommended Vanson and Aero. The trouble is, they have slow turnover because they are almost made to orders. Vanson may have some off the shelf jackets though. Schott is also a good choice as they have a good history, but just make sure you order their Made in the USA Perfecto range, the same applies for Vanson. I think for Vanson, their typical USA made jackets (most of them) all have sizes with chest measurements, while their non USA range usually have S,M,L, XL kind of sizings. hope this helps.

 

[PADDY]

*ADMIN NOTICE*

Have I really been gone 'that long' that you Gentlemen have started to 'forget' the high manners, respect and courteousy that we expect of our members on TFL..?
You do not need to be reminded that we will 'not tolerate' bad language or verbal fighting more akin to a Kindergarten Play-Ground than to mature adults. Please behave appropriately as members and 'guests' of this Private Club.

This is a valid thread, a member is seeking guidance and advice, so thankyou to the members who have already given their 'positive' feedback - as we ALL started at the beginning, once upon a time

Thankyou for your time Gents. Case Closed, Now Carry on.

PADDY M.

 

[subject101]

Could you name more UK, german and french makers, please?