Homburg Nation

[Miamibruno]

Alan,

Thanks a ton. I really felt it was all original. A Whippet Homburg. Darn if you don't learn something new every day. And the one in the Johnny Phi auction looked just as "convertable" as the one I have. Thanks for solving this mystery. I wonder how long they made that hat?

 

[mayserwegener]

Based on the JohnnyPhi Stetson Whippet that Alan posted it's not a Homburg although it might have been worn mostly brim up (basing this on the binding).

 

[alanfgag]

Righto... for those not familiar with this collection - the Johnny Phi hats were NOS time capsules.

 

[Miamibruno]

So, it was simply made for wearing with the brim up but NOT as a homburg. Perhaps that's why the brim is just a bit bigger (2 5/8ths) than the normal Whippet. Also, in another thread, I read that the Whippets with the name on the sweat were made in Canada (which seems weird because the liner and sweat also have the stars in the upper left rather than the leaf). So perhaps this was a Canadian twist on the Whippet.

Thanks Alan and Mayserwegener for your assistance in the mystery.

 

[mayserwegener]

It's just a guess on my part based on the flange and binding. Robert (RLK) or someone else might have something to add. Also the hat store that the NOS (JohnnyPhi) Whippet came from was in Maryland so not sure why they would be sourcing Canadian made hats but I guess it's possible.

 

[Denton]

Miamibruno's mystery hat and the responses are another triumph for the Fedora Lounge. Fascinating reading.

 

[Miamibruno]

Just to throw some more mystery on this hat, I saw Tony from Tarzana's Three Way Whippet in a 2008 thread about an Adam Premier hat and I think it might be one of those. I'm checking.

 

[mayserwegener]

What is interesting about your hat is the brim binding. It doesn't make sense (at least to me) to have a Homburg like brim binding if the brim was intended to be snapped (this is just my opinion). I looked at the Tony from Tarazana's Three Way Whippet and its brim binding is not Homburg like. The JohnnyPhi Royal Stetson Whippet appears to be a closer match (similar binding and flange) to your hat.

 

[Miamibruno]

I agree, Mayserwegener! I looked up a few other Three Way Whippets and they have the full binding. Very curious indeed. I hope someone out there is a better researcher than I.

 

[mayserwegener]

I would say it's very similar if not the same as the JohnnyPhi Royal Stetson Whippet. To me it looks better brim up but I have no idea of the original intention.

 

[Nick D]

I posted this over in the Mallory Mile, too, but thought I'd add it here.

A Mallory homburg, the felt is in excellent condition. The sweatband was shot so I bought a new roan leather sweat and sewed it in.

New sweat

 

[ManofKent]

I found this in a local charity (thrift) shop on Wednesday lunchtime. They had two old Homburgs, one a very nice Henry Heath but in the inevitable 6 7/8, and this one. Tried it on and it fits like a generous UK 7 3/8 - snug but perfectly wearable, and with a very flexible sweat it should stretch 1/2 a size.

Missing it's liner, but that should be within my sewing skills, and I've got an old one I saved.

The felt is a little grubby in places, but nothing a drop of lighter fuel and a good brush won't solve. No mothing or other damage, and the ribbon and binding are perfect.

The band has the union stamp underneath so that probably dates it from 1911 ish to the early 50's (shame they didn't change the stamp design every year or two). The original liner had definitely been sewn in, so again it's likely to be early 50's at newest. The sweat embossing is identical to Dunn & co. hats from the late 40's - 50's. I think attributing it to a Dunn & Co from 40's/50's is probably pretty safe, but I'd welcome any other views:









A little cleaning, a bit of steaming and shaping and a few stitches should see it good to go.

 

[mayserwegener]

Nick & Richard, Very nice Homburgs!

 

[Chepstow]

Nick & Richard, Very nice Homburgs!

+1

 

[splintercellsz]

1940s (OPA places it between 1941 - 1947) Stetson DeLuxe St. Regis Homburg.

 

[Chepstow]

Justin, I love this Stetson, you lucky man! Wow!!

 

[ManofKent]

That's something special.

 

[Alive'n'Amplified]

I don't know that there is a Collins & Fairbanks thread, so I am putting this new beauty here in the official homburg thread. The C&F hat company was located at 400 Washington St. in Boston, MA, so it has a different character than a typical Fifth Ave. hat of the same era. Haven't been able to find too much history on the brand. The felt is beautiful and flawless. It's dense and incredibly soft. Creases with ease. The sweatband is supple with a nice dressing at the back, while the liner is simple and understated.

There's something very genuine and authentic about this hat, and that's why I like it so much. It's not your typical big-name brand. :thumb:

Brand: Collins & Fairbanks - Excellent Quality
Located: Boston, MA
Color: Light Sky
Crown: almost 5 3/4" OC
Brim: 2 1/2", including curl and binding. Visually, about 2"
Ribbon: 2", black w/ oversized ribbon cinch

 

[ManofKent]

That looks really nice AnA. There are a lot of good finds away from the big brands.

 

[g.durand]

AnA--that takes my breath away. Very well done, sir.