Himel Bros Imperial Fit

[navetsea]

I was wondering if a splay like you mention would look good on this jacket due to the bottom yoke. A splay looks great on a plain style, but might look odd on a jacket with a bottom yoke at the front hem. Thoughts anyone?

Your observation is correct. The Imperial was intended to look longer and slimmer than the OG Herc.
The OP’s jacket looks large to me. Sleeves could be tapered and shortened a bit, and the back could come up above the rear pockets. I think this fit looks fantastic for the pattern:
View attachment 463153
Thing is that it doesn’t look like this right out of the box.
Mine (v2) day one:
View attachment 463155
Years later:
View attachment 463157

I can not find a still to post. Here is a GW Imperial size 46 fit video.
The jacket in this thread just looks like the wrong size.

those splay looks fine to me , but it is a matter of personal preference.

 

[Cyber Lip]

those splay looks fine to me , but it is a matter of personal preference.

hmmm, I like it and I'm not sure if I like it both at the same time LOL. I like it a lot on a plain front jacket for sure, but I guess the jury's out on whether I like it or not with that yoke. I think it looks better on that particular jacket due to the more pronounced slant and point than it might on the himel. I think it needs that slant and point for the splay to work properly aesthetically

 

[Marc mndt]

OK, so what's your point? If you've determined that's a good look for you then have at it Hoss. You do you boo

I think you were trying to make a point about short jackets and those wearing them are those who are going for a full vintage look?

My point being, that's nonsense. Not a single person participating in this thread wears a full vintage look. Certainly not me.

 

[navetsea]

@Cyber Lip thanks for the encouraging words lol. Honestly I knew the jacket was going to be a bit longer when I ordered it - because 1) Dave told me it would be, and 2) I was ok with having a slightly longer jacket because my Aero already has that short jacket look. Part of me is fine with the way it is now, but the other part of me can’t help but notice that it does look a bit off because of the length. Also the sleeve relative to body length thing was something I noticed too, so it’s not that some of the other members made me notice it. I guess I would be fine with being mostly happy with it if it wasn’t such an expensive jacket.

@Damon141 they already remade the jacket once. I posted pictures of the original jacket when I initially started this thread, so the second set of pictures is the remade jacket.

To everyone who’s suggesting it should be shorter - I did send Himel an email asking if it was possible to shorten it (knowing it’s a long shot), and I got the response I was expecting. Basically it was along the lines of it’s not possible to shorten it without reconstructing a new jacket (which he claimed was already done to make my jacket trimmer), that the jacket’s length is exactly where it needs to be (sits below the belt line), they built it off my fit jacket, and that any disproportion is due to my build but it still looks good.

I guess I could be partly to blame for sending them a fit jacket that was a little longer and not requesting that they don’t follow it exactly and make the necessary adjustments to make it more proportionate - but I figured I didn’t need to say that to someone like Himel. Live and learn I guess.

Another thing that was a bit disappointing was that when they remade my jacket, they didn’t really consult me on how I wanted the remake to be. They just made it trimmer and sent it out. You’d think that they’d want to follow up with the customer to get exact details to ensure the remake is exactly what the customers wants, but perhaps that’s unreasonable of me to expect?

After this experience through, I’ll definitely be sure to over communicate exactly what I want for any future custom jackets I order.

Sorry but a clothing is created to elevate or to correct our look, if you perhaps have longer torso then your jacket must correct that look and not to blindly follow and highlight your weakness point. If your second jacket was a complete remake which i seriously doubt since it looked like the first jacket being quickly taken in on the side seams and cuff, but if that was indeed a remake and the body being that long then at the very least the designer should have some sensitivity to re arrange the pockets to lessen the long tubular look and to give it more hourglass waist or something to at least suggest the waistline

 

[Carlos840]

Counting down the seconds before the usual suspects jump in and tell you those are "too long" and look like garbage LOL

Dude, if you can't see the difference in proportions between the OP's jacket and the ones @ton312 posted you are wasting your time on this forum...
Have you tried the Styleforum?

 

[ton312]

I don’t think it’s a matter of opinion or taste when it comes to a Halfbelt back. The OP’s jacket is not a long Halfbelt. It’s supposed to be a shorter, sports jacket pattern, inspired by jackets from the 30’s, 40’s and 50’s. If the OP requires or wishes for more length it should not come from the back of the jacket, it should come from the front (drop). Of course this would make the hem band look out of place and should be eliminated. Perhaps a different pattern is in order.

Perfect example of this would be my (former) Aero 30’s HB:
Back length was good:

Front drop for more length (too much for my taste):

Jackets with a waistband hem absolutely need to be shorter by virtue of less front drop. The waist band should not be at hip level.

The difference in front drop between the above two jackets is 1.5”. The brown had a 3” drop, the black about 1.5”. Both backs bang on at 25.5”.
To my eye the Himel in question has all the proportions wrong. From start to finish.

 

[Salmosalar]

I don’t think it’s a matter of opinion or taste when it comes to a Halfbelt back. The OP’s jacket is not a long Halfbelt. It’s supposed to be a shorter, sports jacket pattern, inspired by jackets from the 30’s, 40’s and 50’s. If the OP requires or wishes for more length it should not come from the back of the jacket, it should come from the front (drop). Of course this would make the hem band look out of place and should be eliminated. Perhaps a different pattern is in order.

Perfect example of this would be my (former) Aero 30’s HB:
Back length was good:
View attachment 474821
Front drop for more length (too much for my taste):
View attachment 474822
Jackets with a waistband hem absolutely need to be shorter by virtue of less front drop. The waist band should not be at hip level.
View attachment 474823 View attachment 474824
The difference in front drop between the above two jackets is 1.5”. The brown had a 3” drop, the black about 1.5”. Both backs bang on at 25.5”.
To my eye the Himel in question has all the proportions wrong. From start to finish.

The more I look at the Imperial in this thread the more off it seems to me - the front pockets (chest and handwarmers) are all way too high on the body and yet the halfbelt is way too low, so it fails on both counts but in different ways in the front v back - the overall effect to my eyes is that it is not in proportion at all and I am honestly surprised it was sent out to the OP given these weird dimensions….Personally, I would ask for a full remake or refund - especially for the large sums involved. After seeing this and a few other examples on FL I would be v wary about ordering a Himel myself….I like some of their styles as per the website, and have toyed with the idea of their take on the grizzly before now, but the risk-reward ratio is far from compelling…..

 

[newtojackets]

The more I look at the Imperial in this thread the more off it seems to me - the front pockets (chest and handwarmers) are all way too high on the body and yet the halfbelt is way too low, so it fails on both counts but in different ways in the front v back - the overall effect to my eyes is that it is not in proportion at all and I am honestly surprised it was sent out to the OP given these weird dimensions….Personally, I would ask for a full remake or refund - especially for the large sums involved. After seeing this and a few other examples on FL I would be v wary about ordering a Himel myself….I like some of their styles as per the website, and have toyed with the idea of their take on the grizzly before now, but the risk-reward ratio is far from compelling…..

To be honest, the more I read these forums the more FL’s stuff stands out. I’ve read negative experiences with most custom makers (Himel QC, Lost Worlds communication / fit, Simmon bilt communication, Aero pattern / hardware etc.). The only one that has seemed overwhelmingly positive is Greg’s work, but maybe this is just the case of not that many people have purchased one yet and eventually that too will get negative reviews

 

[Marc mndt]

The only one that has seemed overwhelmingly positive is Greg’s work, but maybe this is just the case of not that many people have purchased one yet and eventually that too will get negative reviews

I won't go into too much detail but current FL patterns are not amongst the best in the business. The shoulders appear overly square which is imo caused by the unnatural sleeve curvature. Also, people feel the jackets are quite restrictive.

Yes my FL jacket is a great fit but that's a heavily tweaked pattern.

 

[Salmosalar]

To be honest, the more I read these forums the more FL’s stuff stands out. I’ve read negative experiences with most custom makers (Himel QC, Lost Worlds communication / fit, Simmon bilt communication, Aero pattern / hardware etc.). The only one that has seemed overwhelmingly positive is Greg’s work, but maybe this is just the case of not that many people have purchased one yet and eventually that too will get negative reviews

I have never seen an FL jacket that looks as off as this Imperial, but Greg is still fine tuning his patterns, which are improving all the time - I have 2 FL jackets and both are great, but in terms of fit and pattern I would put them on a par with my custom Aeros (though the actual construction is notably better with FL) and behind both Lewis Leathers (my top pick) and Thefi (just behind Lewis in my view), so you might want to explore those options - all 4 are v strong and they offer different flavours, but Lewis have really nailed how to mould a jacket to fit - they have been doing it for the best part of a century, so plenty of practice! My ranking for the best fits and patterns for custom jackets (I have 20 spread across these makers, so a reasonable sample size) would be Lewis, Thedi and then a tie for FL and Aero….and I have never seen any of these makers put out something that looks as odd as the Himel in this thread. They are also cheaper too…

 

[newtojackets]

I won't go into too much detail but current FL patterns are not amongst the best in the business. The shoulders appear overly square which is imo caused by the unnatural sleeve curvature. Also, people feel the jackets are quite restrictive.

Yes my FL jacket is a great fit but that's a heavily tweaked pattern.

I have never seen an FL jacket that looks as off as this Imperial, but Greg is still fine tuning his patterns, which are improving all the time - I have 2 FL jackets and both are great, but in terms of fit and pattern I would put them on a par with my custom Aeros (though the actual construction is notably better with FL) and behind both Lewis Leathers (my top pick) and Thefi (just behind Lewis in my view), so you might want to explore those options - all 4 are v strong and they offer different flavours, but Lewis have really nailed how to mould a jacket to fit - they have been doing it for the best part of a century, so plenty of practice! My ranking for the best fits and patterns for custom jackets (I have 20 spread across these makers, so a reasonable sample size) would be Lewis, Thedi and then a tie for FL and Aero….and I have never seen any of these makers put out something that looks as odd as the Himel in this thread. They are also cheaper too…

Thedi is another one, don’t think I’ve seen a negative review of a thedi jacket yet

 

[Cyber Lip]

Dude, if you can't see the difference in proportions between the OP's jacket and the ones @ton312 posted you are wasting your time on this forum...
Have you tried the Styleforum?

what are you talking about?? When did I say I don't see a difference? I never did, you're making an assumption, and you know what they say about people that assume LOL. Have you tried the AssumptionMakersForum?

 

[Cyber Lip]

I think you were trying to make a point about short jackets and those wearing them are those who are going for a full vintage look?

My point being, that's nonsense. Not a single person participating in this thread wears a full vintage look. Certainly not me.

And you would be mistaken there chief, because I did not say that

 

[Marc mndt]

you're making an assumption, and you know what they say about people that assume LOL. Have you tried the AssumptionMakersForum?

 

[handymike]

Let’s step back a minute and take a breath...

There’s no need to get this thread locked-up.

I’m sure there will be a @himelator post soon, and the jacket will be fixed if the OP wishes.
(At least I hope so)

 

[El Marro]

Have you tried the AssumptionMakersForum?

I happen to be a moderator on that forum, but I thought you knew that.

Thedi is another one, don’t think I’ve seen a negative review of a thedi jacket yet

I could write a negative review about my Thedi jacket because it doesn’t fit well and I don’t like it, I just haven’t bothered. I say this not to bash Thedi, Just to point out that every maker has turned out a bad jacket from time to time.

 

[TheDonEffect]

The distance between the pockets and the top stitching of the belt line seems too far proportionately, and for a design where the pockets are a little higher, that could've been an easy fix to lower it some. And the half belt is also too low. So the proportions just look off. As with many things in life, these small deviations make a dramatic impact on the overall execution and perception of a piece.

Personally, I like my jackets longer since I'm always worried about plumber crack, but I see OP's reservations about the styling of it.

I hate to harp on Himel again, but when spending this kind of money on a jacket, his customer service is lacking and doesn't give me confidence that I'll end up with something I'm totally happy with. As mentioned, FL is not being reproach, but Greg's enthusiasm to make sure you're happy goes a very long way.

On a side note, I think it's easy to get caught up in wanting to achieve a look, like seeing Ton or Mr Proper's fit pics, one would aspire to replicate those looks, but for me I accepted it's impossible because I'm not built like them. It's why I essentially swore off of stiff leather since they're either way to restricting or they make me look like the tinman because of the way I'm built.

That said, I think OP would've gotten a better fit with an OTR jacket from any reputable maker as the OP's build doesn't have the same challenges as myself and any maker should easily be able to make something flattering.

 

[navetsea]

Let’s step back a minute and take a breath...

There’s no need to get this thread locked-up.

I’m sure there will be a @himelator post soon, and the jacket will be fixed if the OP wishes.
(At least I hope so)

when that happens you guys need to clear up your phone cache memory to load up his reply

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I'm not going to get involved in whatever is going on recently, but I will say that the jacket looks too big in the first photos.

 

[Brandrea33]

Making a bespoke jacket for someone without being able to measure in person has to be a challenging business to say the least.

I went the bespoke route on my first jacket and was measured in person by David. The jacket itself was a fantastic fit by all measures, except maybe my own and that was my fault.

Most here said that it looked great, however to me, it was too small in the chest and shoulders and didn’t “feel nice to wear”. Could’ve been that I didn’t communicate how I wanted the jacket to fit when I met with David. Could be that I didn’t understand the pattern. Whatever the case, I don’t think adding an inch here or there in the places that matter would’ve changed much. I decided to move on and try other patterns.

That said, fit and feel means different things to different people and I’m certain that most people who buy jackets like the OP’s are delighted with the result and don’t question it. Just my opinion.

I certainly don’t envy these guys lol.