Himel Bros Imperial Fit

[Damon141]

I think he will work with you. It seems like he wants to make the best he can.
Say what you will about the man, he lives and breathes jackets and vintage clothing in general and one look at that jacket and you see the chest pocket is on the shoulder and the half belt sits where your pants hem would be. You are not complaining about a wavy stitching line but the overall look of a jacket.

 

[Damon141]

I love my GW Hercules. View attachment 463693 I will say though that it is my least comfortable GW. The Ventura and the Arcadia are both much easier to wear and allow for more mobility.

That is such a great combo, the fit on that jacket is how I want my a future half belt to be, tailored but not tight and they can throw in a car like that I’d be happy.

 

[ChienChilla]

@Cyber Lip thanks for the encouraging words lol. Honestly I knew the jacket was going to be a bit longer when I ordered it - because 1) Dave told me it would be, and 2) I was ok with having a slightly longer jacket because my Aero already has that short jacket look. Part of me is fine with the way it is now, but the other part of me can’t help but notice that it does look a bit off because of the length. Also the sleeve relative to body length thing was something I noticed too, so it’s not that some of the other members made me notice it. I guess I would be fine with being mostly happy with it if it wasn’t such an expensive jacket.

@Damon141 they already remade the jacket once. I posted pictures of the original jacket when I initially started this thread, so the second set of pictures is the remade jacket.

To everyone who’s suggesting it should be shorter - I did send Himel an email asking if it was possible to shorten it (knowing it’s a long shot), and I got the response I was expecting. Basically it was along the lines of it’s not possible to shorten it without reconstructing a new jacket (which he claimed was already done to make my jacket trimmer), that the jacket’s length is exactly where it needs to be (sits below the belt line), they built it off my fit jacket, and that any disproportion is due to my build but it still looks good.

I guess I could be partly to blame for sending them a fit jacket that was a little longer and not requesting that they don’t follow it exactly and make the necessary adjustments to make it more proportionate - but I figured I didn’t need to say that to someone like Himel. Live and learn I guess.

Another thing that was a bit disappointing was that when they remade my jacket, they didn’t really consult me on how I wanted the remake to be. They just made it trimmer and sent it out. You’d think that they’d want to follow up with the customer to get exact details to ensure the remake is exactly what the customers wants, but perhaps that’s unreasonable of me to expect?

After this experience through, I’ll definitely be sure to over communicate exactly what I want for any future custom jackets I order.

 

[handymike]

Sorry to read this, especially with an Imperial.
My only custom made jacket was a fun collaboration with the maker. I only have good memories. Jacket creation should be an enjoyable experience even through re-makes.

 

[Cyber Lip]

 

[ton312]

To say “all vintage halfbelts fit short and require high waisted trousers” is wildly inaccurate.
Three 70-80 year old jackets, 26” back length

Patterns vary and the location of the Halfbelt is what sets balance to the backs appearance. The OP’s jacket is out of balance and that’s why it looks too long. If it were a “long Halfbelt”
It would look like this (another 70 year old jacket):

Ultimately the failure of the OP’s jacket lies in the makers mistake on proportion. It has nothing to do with anything other than that and it has absolutely nothing to do with pants rise or any other silly thing.

OP- get the jacket replaced or refunded. I’m surprised that Himel didn’t ask for pics of you wearing your jacket that you sent or measured so he could advise you on how his pattern would look in that same set of specs. Specifically, that it would not work at all.

 

[ton312]

I've ordered from himel a few times and communicating with the himel crew is a real chore, it's never easy and can be nuts to the point of being jaw droppingly excrutiating lol. Of the several I've purchased, only 1 was perfect on the 1st try and didn't need to be sent back to be fixed or redone. And I was incredibly organized and detailed in my communications with them at time of order, and with the detail I provided on the order form they had me fill out. I gave them my measurements, desired fit etc etc in a very clean and concise manner, so the problem wasn't me (even though I was made to feel as if it was).

But seriously, it was as if they didn't even read the custom order forms they had me fill out and submit. I'd get emails and phone calls telling me they need this and that...info that I had provided in the form! I'd be like did they even look at it?? I'd reply by patiently, politely, and thoroughly answering their questions, and also attaching a pdf of the completed order form (which they already had) to the email. Then a month later I'd get a new email or phone call with the exact same questions again! This went on over and over again to the point of craziness. Like Spinal Tap (the movie) level of hilarity.

I'm more detailed, organized, and thorough (as well as patient) in my communications than most, and I've had experience ordering custom jackets with other makers before, so I knew what I was doing going in. Given that, being as bad as it was for me, I can't imagine what it's like for people that need more guidance and hand-holding. It's remarkable anyone gets a jacket out them to be honest. However, I will say that I do love the jackets I have from them after all the headaches were worked out, and obviously I thought it was all worth it, otherwise I wouldn't have kept going back after the 1st time. So, after all is said and done, I am glad I went through it all. But to anyone reading this that is thinking of ordering from them for the 1st time...be prepared for one hell of a roller-coaster ride lol.

To me this is a perfect testimonial of why one should avoid a particular maker. Literally, perfect.

 

[El Marro]

That is such a great combo, the fit on that jacket is how I want my a future half belt to be, tailored but not tight and they can throw in a car like that I’d be happy.

Thank you brother!
I miss that car every day and the jacket is growing on me as time goes by.

 

[El Marro]

OP, this forum here isn't just a regular style/leather jacket forum. It's primarily geared towards vintage style enthusiasts, and a lot of them are sticklers for vintage accuracy. Not everyone here fits that description, but many do.

This may have been true at one time but I certainly don’t think it is today, at least not in the Outerwear forum.
Back when A-2 jackets were the big thing around here you did see a lot more bickering about ”historical accuracy” with members arguing over collar shapes, pocket, flap stitching, and other minutiae.
These days, though, I think people are more focused on fit, and that seems to be the issue that some members have with the jacket in question.

 

[ChienChilla]

I've ordered from himel a few times and communicating with the himel crew is a real chore, it's never easy and can be nuts to the point of being jaw droppingly excrutiating lol. Of the several I've purchased, only 1 was perfect on the 1st try and didn't need to be sent back to be fixed or redone. And I was incredibly organized and detailed in my communications with them at time of order, and with the detail I provided on the order form they had me fill out. I gave them my measurements, desired fit etc etc in a very clean and concise manner, so the problem wasn't me (even though I was made to feel as if it was).

But seriously, it was as if they didn't even read the custom order forms they had me fill out and submit. I'd get emails and phone calls telling me they need this and that...info that I had provided in the form! I'd be like did they even look at it?? I'd reply by patiently, politely, and thoroughly answering their questions, and also attaching a pdf of the completed order form (which they already had) to the email. Then a month later I'd get a new email or phone call with the exact same questions again! This went on over and over again to the point of craziness. Like Spinal Tap (the movie) level of hilarity.

I'm more detailed, organized, and thorough (as well as patient) in my communications than most, and I've had experience ordering custom jackets with other makers before, so I knew what I was doing going in. Given that, being as bad as it was for me, I can't imagine what it's like for people that need more guidance and hand-holding. It's remarkable anyone gets a jacket out them to be honest. However, I will say that I do love the jackets I have from them after all the headaches were worked out, and obviously I thought it was all worth it, otherwise I wouldn't have kept going back after the 1st time. So, after all is said and done, I am glad I went through it all. But to anyone reading this that is thinking of ordering from them for the 1st time...be prepared for one hell of a roller-coaster ride lol.

Thanks for sharing your experience. With how much Himels cost, I’m surprised you were willing to order from them again given on how bad the first experience sounds. Although it is annoying that they asked you for the same information multiple times, at least they were trying to get details. I’d rather them ask me something 2-3 times than not at all. Before this Himel, I ordered my Aero through Thurston Bros and they were extremely thorough and even advised me on stuff I wasn’t familiar with, and their jackets cost half of what Himel’s does. My next one will be with Greg Fields, so I hope it’ll be a better experience.

 

[ChienChilla]

To say “all vintage halfbelts fit short and require high waisted trousers” is wildly inaccurate.
Three 70-80 year old jackets, 26” back length
View attachment 474694 View attachment 474695 View attachment 474696
Patterns vary and the location of the Halfbelt is what sets balance to the backs appearance. The OP’s jacket is out of balance and that’s why it looks too long. If it were a “long Halfbelt”
It would look like this (another 70 year old jacket):
View attachment 474701
Ultimately the failure of the OP’s jacket lies in the makers mistake on proportion. It has nothing to do with anything other than that and it has absolutely nothing to do with pants rise or any other silly thing.

OP- get the jacket replaced or refunded. I’m surprised that Himel didn’t ask for pics of you wearing your jacket that you sent or measured so he could advise you on how his pattern would look in that same set of specs. Specifically, that it would not work at all.

Yeah they didn’t ask, but I did provide them with pictures of the initial jacket when I asked for a remake. They didn’t say anything about the length, so I guess they really did think it looked right. I wouldn’t even know how to ask Dave for a refund - should I just straight up ask for one? Or demand a new jacket?

 

[Aloysius]

To be quite honest, I've seen many Himel jackets that have interesting materials or historical references, but few that don't fall flat as actual jackets.

OK, so I'd like to address the issue of some people here confusing and discombobulating the OP and keeping him from enjoying his new jacket. So I'm writing this post directly to him.

OP, this forum here isn't just a regular style/leather jacket forum. It's primarily geared towards vintage style enthusiasts, and a lot of them are sticklers for vintage accuracy. Not everyone here fits that description, but many do. It's easy to forget that, and can be confusing to someone who's not aware of that and is just a regular guy seeking fit/style advice. So keep that in mind.

That's the reason for the short jacket fetish here. Jackets were short in the 40's and 50's because the style then was 'very' high-waisted pants with a belt-line above the navel, and shirts were 'always' worn tucked in. It was a 'short torso' look if you will. So that's why you get a lot of guy's here saying your jacket is too long. Because they are sticklers for vintage accuracy, and see any deviation from that to be an abomination.

The thing is, to wear a jacket like that you pretty much need the whole look...very high waisted pants with a belt line above the navel, and an always tucked-in shirt. If you wear one of these vintage accurate short jackets with modern styles, i.e.; pants with a belt-line below the navel, and/or a shirt un-tucked, it won't look good. They're made to look a certain way with the high-waisted pants style of the time. So for us regular guys who like elements of vintage styles, but don't want to go the whole hog with the full outfit, and walk around looking like we walked out of central casting for a period film, we opt for "vintage inspired". Which is a jacket like YOUR Himel Imperial...a jacket with vintage inspired stylings but cut for someone who wears modern (post-1950's) style clothes.

And that's where you'll get in trouble around here. Many of the vintage enthusiasts see vintage-inspired with a modern cut as an abomination. So keep that in mind when reading the comments here. I myself am just a regular guy that likes elements of vintage style, but not others. So vintage inspired jackets made to be worn with the types of modern pants and shirts I like is MY thing. IMO your jacket looks great. Take the comments here for what they're worth, and with a grain of salt, and enjoy the hell out of that jacket! I have a Himel Imperial myself btw.

This reads like a giant projection.

 

[ton312]

Yeah they didn’t ask, but I did provide them with pictures of the initial jacket when I asked for a remake. They didn’t say anything about the length, so I guess they really did think it looked right. I wouldn’t even know how to ask Dave for a refund - should I just straight up ask for one? Or demand a new jacket?

I should think sending the pics you’ve posted here should be all the evidence required for Dave to agree a remake is in order.

 

[Cyber Lip]

Thanks for sharing your experience. With how much Himels cost, I’m surprised you were willing to order from them again given on how bad the first experience sounds. Although it is annoying that they asked you for the same information multiple times, at least they were trying to get details. I’d rather them ask me something 2-3 times than not at all. Before this Himel, I ordered my Aero through Thurston Bros and they were extremely thorough and even advised me on stuff I wasn’t familiar with, and their jackets cost half of what Himel’s does. My next one will be with Greg Fields, so I hope it’ll be a better experience.

I hear you, and I even told myself exactly that at the time...that given their level of disorganization I was glad they were reaching out vs not reaching out. As to why I continued to buy more jackets, let me say that at no time did I feel like I was dealing with bad or dishonest people that might screw me over, and because of their demeanor I had faith that they would take care of me in the end if something wasn't right. And that did turn out to be the case, they did take care of me each time to my satisfaction, and I was thrilled with the final product in each case. And I found Dave himself to be a good dude and likeable guy over the phone. At worst it was just a headachey experience. I've dealt with my fair share of bums n crooks, so in the scheme of things "headachey" is far from being the worst thing in the world. And the most important thing of course was getting a sweet jacket I was thrilled with, and in the end they did deliver on that.

 

[Cyber Lip]

To say “all vintage halfbelts fit short and require high waisted trousers” is wildly inaccurate.
Three 70-80 year old jackets, 26” back length
View attachment 474694 View attachment 474695 View attachment 474696
Patterns vary and the location of the Halfbelt is what sets balance to the backs appearance. The OP’s jacket is out of balance and that’s why it looks too long. If it were a “long Halfbelt”
It would look like this (another 70 year old jacket):
View attachment 474701
Ultimately the failure of the OP’s jacket lies in the makers mistake on proportion. It has nothing to do with anything other than that and it has absolutely nothing to do with pants rise or any other silly thing.

OP- get the jacket replaced or refunded. I’m surprised that Himel didn’t ask for pics of you wearing your jacket that you sent or measured so he could advise you on how his pattern would look in that same set of specs. Specifically, that it would not work at all.

Counting down the seconds before the usual suspects jump in and tell you those are "too long" and look like garbage LOL

 

[Cyber Lip]

For those who think 'short jacket fetishists' are condemned to wearing the full vintage look with 'very high waisted pants', in the pics above I'm wearing low waist slimfit denim. Belt line well below the navel, very much a contemporary fit.

OK, so what's your point? If you've determined that's a good look for you then have at it Hoss. You do you boo

 

[navetsea]

Hi everyone. I sent the jacket back to Himel for adjustments, and now I have it back. When I sent it back, I emailed them with a better description of how I wanted the fit to be, as well as pictures of my Aero for reference. I asked Dave what exactly they changed, and he said they made it tighter and trimmed everything down (no specific details). It definitely feels less loose now, and the sleeves are at a more ideal length, but does the body still seem long?

imo the entire waistband can be chopped off then the proportion would make some sense. since the chest pocket is very high it also lengthen the look of the body that is already very long... perhaps a double zip or bottom splay can save it somewhat, but do you really have to settle to a compromise for the price you pay from a tailor made jacket. I don't know I think before it was just a jacket too big, now it is altered into a jacket that is proportionally too long.

 

[Cyber Lip]

I think the bothersome thing is the chest pocket placement for me mostly... feels too high which accentuates the torso length

I think it was done this way because of how high the handwarmer pockets are, which are high due to the bottom yoke. If the chest pocket was lower it would be too close to the handwarmer pockets and it would look like a cluster F of pockets all placed too close together

 

[navetsea]

the only possible fix imo is to make the front hem slanted toward the center zip, and the back half belt and skirting/ kidney panel thing to be raised like handymike suggested, and perhaps the center zip box raised a little bit to have some splay. Himel's cossack has a nice front hem slant/ curve, he can perhaps use that shape to fix this one, that is just my opinion

 

[Cyber Lip]

and perhaps the center zip box raised a little bit to have some splay. Himel's cossack has a nice front hem slant/ curve, he can perhaps use that shape to fix this one, that is just my opinion

I was wondering if a splay like you mention would look good on this jacket due to the bottom yoke. A splay looks great on a plain style, but might look odd on a jacket with a bottom yoke at the front hem. Thoughts anyone?