Himel Bros Imperial Fit

[handymike]

Good call. I think high chest pockets tend to elongate the body and contribute to confusing proportions. Lowering it or setting it at an angle would make a world of difference.

Your observation is correct. The Imperial was intended to look longer and slimmer than the OG Herc.
The OP’s jacket looks large to me. Sleeves could be tapered and shortened a bit, and the back could come up above the rear pockets. I think this fit looks fantastic for the pattern:

Thing is that it doesn’t look like this right out of the box.
Mine (v2) day one:

Years later:

 

[Will Zach]

^^
Hmmm, your V2 looks very similar to OPs... The "years later" version looks much better.

 

[Brandrea33]

Your observation is correct. The Imperial was intended to look longer and slimmer than the OG Herc.
The OP’s jacket looks large to me. Sleeves could be tapered and shortened a bit, and the back could come up above the rear pockets. I think this fit looks fantastic for the pattern:
View attachment 463153
Thing is that it doesn’t look like this right out of the box.
Mine (v2) day one:
View attachment 463155
Years later:
View attachment 463157

That might just be the best fitting Imperial I’ve seen.

 

[Tom71]

One inch too long in the body and perhaps a bit wide in the hem.

Rest is perfectly within my tolerance.

 

[Observe]

Why is it so hard to get this type of jacket (half belt, sports jacket, etc)to fit right? I've seen so few ideal fits compared to the multitude of people spending $$$ on mediocre fits, and I include myself in that category. Even going custom or bespoke doesn't seem to avoid the pitfalls. Is it adherence to historical accuracy, and the old patterns are not suited to the modern physique or provide poor mobility? Did everyone's clothes just fit poorly back then? Are we trying to impose a modern interpretation of a good fit on a vintage style? Should we give up and just wear track suits?

 

[handymike]

I think obsessive fit is hard to get right over the internet. Best to try stuff on in person.

 

[Spiney]

The pocket issue still needs an explanation.

 

[ton312]

The pocket issue still needs an explanation.

I agree. @handymike and @Tom71 both have stellar examples of the fit for sure but to me that chest pocket height is very reminiscent of my 5 Star’s pocket height and to my eye, entirely too high. The OP’s jacket has the throat latch nearly touching the chest pocket! Merely my opinion of course but that’s a little thing that absolutely drives me nuts. It’s certainly not exclusive to Himel, I’ve seen it on many a makers jacket. To me it just stands out like a sore thumb. I think the placement here would be more balanced:

 

[Mich486]

Why is it so hard to get this type of jacket (half belt, sports jacket, etc)to fit right? I've seen so few ideal fits compared to the multitude of people spending $$$ on mediocre fits, and I include myself in that category. Even going custom or bespoke doesn't seem to avoid the pitfalls. Is it adherence to historical accuracy, and the old patterns are not suited to the modern physique or provide poor mobility? Did everyone's clothes just fit poorly back then? Are we trying to impose a modern interpretation of a good fit on a vintage style? Should we give up and just wear track suits?

Oh yes, embrace the vintage fit and the discomfort that comes with leather or you are set up for disappointment. Leather jackets are not comfortable clothes! We still love them though. : D

Imho if one is after this hercules pattern (kind of modern long and slim) why not go Rainbow Country? Will fit the same if not better.

 

[Cyber Lip]

I like the fit. I have one of these also and yours fits like mine in the sleeves and body length, and this was by design, I ordered it that way on purpose. Things like body and sleeve length are subjective, so some people will say it looks great and others will say it's too long, or 'too big' or whatever. Some people like their sleeves to end at the wrist, and some like more length. I like 'new' jackets to hit me right at my top thumb knuckle. This means they'll end up about a half inch or so above that when they're done creasing, and for me that's perfect.

It looks great and it also looks like you hit the 'sweet spot' for what I think is the right amount of room for layering. If you wanted a tighter fit to wear nothing heavier than a t shirt under it, then perhaps it's too big. But I like to be able to do light layering under mine.

To people that say it looks too long...look at the zipped up pic. The front hem looks like it just comfortably covers the belt line + a small bit extra. This jacket has an ample front drop, so it's supposed to hit you about there IMO

 

[Cyber Lip]

View attachment 463153
Thing is that it doesn’t look like this right out of the box.
Mine (v2) day one:
View attachment 463155
Years later:
View attachment 463157

I'm interested in hearing other's thoughts on what they think of the way the zipper ends at what looks like 2 inches above the hem on this style. I believe this is Chapman's version in the pics. Himel's zip on this style extends all the way to the bottom. I have the Himel, and I kinda wish my zip was done like this one here. But then there's that bottom yoke, so maybe some people prefer a zip to go all the way to the bottom if there's a bottom yoke like this one at play? Thoughts?

Functionality-wise the splay makes sense due to an ample the front drop, but I'm wondering about the pure aesthetics of it combined with the yoke

 

[tmitchell59]

I can not find a still to post. Here is a GW Imperial size 46 fit video.
The jacket in this thread just looks like the wrong size.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I am gonna take a wild guess that the OP is a taller lean built guy so there is the need for custom sizing, in this case a 34 Long? Correct me if I am wrong. While I think the torso contour is good, I also think Himel overshot the length to compensate for low rise jeans, and in the photo the OP is wearing regular rise.

The sleeve cuff is likely intended to clear a Rolex. If the cuffs were tight enough to fall at the wrist then there is no room for the watch. And if the sleeves were to fall at the wrist with the watch clearance then it will feel too short after two weeks of wear. Small price to pay for watch wearing.

I almost wanted to scream out Rainbow Country too but then I realize that the OP might need Long sizing because of his height. And my RC won't clear a bulkier watch.

The horsehide in the photo also seems to be the slightly stiffer kind that needs a little bit of break in. So don't expect the hugging body fit of a softer hide.

The height of the chest pocket is a tricky thing. If it's placed lower then it's feels wierd on the body when a phone is put inside. And I think most people use that pocket for their smart phone these days. I have both the Aero and RC versions of this jacket. My Aero just didn't come with outside chest pocket probably to avoid this problem, and while my RC has lower outside chest pocket it feels too low when I have my phone in there, the bottom of the phone will always be jabbing my stomach and try to swim its way up the pocket bag.

If my assumption about OP needing custom Long sizing, then I think he did ok. The jacket will break in just fine with wear, paired with low rise jeans. If not, get a Rainbow Country!

 

[Damon141]

I guess you can see if it shapes up with time, I would think he would be willing to adjust it for you if you bought directly. Selling would be quite a loss on custom jackets.
I do wonder with your slim build if you could go off the rack if you wanted another jacket. It’s easier if you are lucky enough to live near one of the stores like standard and strange which have some options

 

[ChienChilla]

I like the fit. I have one of these also and yours fits like mine in the sleeves and body length, and this was by design, I ordered it that way on purpose. Things like body and sleeve length are subjective, so some people will say it looks great and others will say it's too long, or 'too big' or whatever. Some people like their sleeves to end at the wrist, and some like more length. I like 'new' jackets to hit me right at my top thumb knuckle. This means they'll end up about a half inch or so above that when they're done creasing, and for me that's perfect.

It looks great and it also looks like you hit the 'sweet spot' for what I think is the right amount of room for layering. If you wanted a tighter fit to wear nothing heavier than a t shirt under it, then perhaps it's too big. But I like to be able to do light layering under mine.

To people that say it looks too long...look at the zipped up pic. The front hem looks like it just comfortably covers the belt line + a small bit extra. This jacket has an ample front drop, so it's supposed to hit you about there IMO

Part of me does want to just keep it the way it is to layer under, but even with a thick hoody under, there’s still plenty of room to spare, so I can definitely have Himel fix it. Do you have fit pictures of your jacket?

 

[ChienChilla]

I am gonna take a wild guess that the OP is a taller lean built guy so there is the need for custom sizing, in this case a 34 Long? Correct me if I am wrong. While I think the torso contour is good, I also think Himel overshot the length to compensate for low rise jeans, and in the photo the OP is wearing regular rise.

The sleeve cuff is likely intended to clear a Rolex. If the cuffs were tight enough to fall at the wrist then there is no room for the watch. And if the sleeves were to fall at the wrist with the watch clearance then it will feel too short after two weeks of wear. Small price to pay for watch wearing.

I almost wanted to scream out Rainbow Country too but then I realize that the OP might need Long sizing because of his height. And my RC won't clear a bulkier watch.

The horsehide in the photo also seems to be the slightly stiffer kind that needs a little bit of break in. So don't expect the hugging body fit of a softer hide.

The height of the chest pocket is a tricky thing. If it's placed lower then it's feels wierd on the body when a phone is put inside. And I think most people use that pocket for their smart phone these days. I have both the Aero and RC versions of this jacket. My Aero just didn't come with outside chest pocket probably to avoid this problem, and while my RC has lower outside chest pocket it feels too low when I have my phone in there, the bottom of the phone will always be jabbing my stomach and try to swim its way up the pocket bag.

If my assumption about OP needing custom Long sizing, then I think he did ok. The jacket will break in just fine with wear, paired with low rise jeans. If not, get a Rainbow Country!

View attachment 463278

I am gonna take a wild guess that the OP is a taller lean built guy so there is the need for custom sizing, in this case a 34 Long? Correct me if I am wrong. While I think the torso contour is good, I also think Himel overshot the length to compensate for low rise jeans, and in the photo the OP is wearing regular rise.

The sleeve cuff is likely intended to clear a Rolex. If the cuffs were tight enough to fall at the wrist then there is no room for the watch. And if the sleeves were to fall at the wrist with the watch clearance then it will feel too short after two weeks of wear. Small price to pay for watch wearing.

I almost wanted to scream out Rainbow Country too but then I realize that the OP might need Long sizing because of his height. And my RC won't clear a bulkier watch.

The horsehide in the photo also seems to be the slightly stiffer kind that needs a little bit of break in. So don't expect the hugging body fit of a softer hide.

The height of the chest pocket is a tricky thing. If it's placed lower then it's feels wierd on the body when a phone is put inside. And I think most people use that pocket for their smart phone these days. I have both the Aero and RC versions of this jacket. My Aero just didn't come with outside chest pocket probably to avoid this problem, and while my RC has lower outside chest pocket it feels too low when I have my phone in there, the bottom of the phone will always be jabbing my stomach and try to swim its way up the pocket bag.

If my assumption about OP needing custom Long sizing, then I think he did ok. The jacket will break in just fine with wear, paired with low rise jeans. If not, get a Rainbow Country!

View attachment 463278

I wish I was tall lol. I’m slim, yes, but I’m between 5’7” and 5’8” so not tall, but not short either. The jacket is supposed to be a size 34 (which is my size), but they made to accommodate wearing a sweater underneath, so it’s like a 35 ish. I do think they underestimated how slim my frame is though.

I did look into Rainbow Country, but none of the retailers I spoke to are taking any orders right now, and I’m hesitant to take a chance on OTF sizing from Japan. I tried a size 36 from Real McCoy’s after reading that Japanese jackets tend to run small, but it was huge on me.

 

[ChienChilla]

I guess you can see if it shapes up with time, I would think he would be willing to adjust it for you if you bought directly. Selling would be quite a loss on custom jackets.
I do wonder with your slim build if you could go off the rack if you wanted another jacket. It’s easier if you are lucky enough to live near one of the stores like standard and strange which have some options

I am slim, but unfortunately every OTF leather jacket I’ve tried has still been too big on me (even choosing the smallest size).

 

[Canuck Panda]

I wish I was tall lol. I’m slim, yes, but I’m between 5’7” and 5’8” so not tall, but not short either. The jacket is supposed to be a size 34 (which is my size), but they made to accommodate wearing a sweater underneath, so it’s like a 35 ish. I do think they underestimated how slim my frame is though.

I did look into Rainbow Country, but none of the retailers I spoke to are taking any orders right now, and I’m hesitant to take a chance on OTF sizing from Japan. I tried a size 36 from Real McCoy’s after reading that Japanese jackets tend to run small, but it was huge on me.

I would suggest to ask for a remake in this case. This is an expensive jacket and I think this pattern will work for you in one size down, or TTS 34 not 35.

Rainbow Country is TTS, but it's also an expensive gamble since buying them direct from Japan means no return. And the measurements provided by the retailer isn't always accurate. But keep an eye out for them. If you ever get a chance to try one on do it. They unarguably make the nicest leather jackets for these type of things, and their sizing stays consistent throughout the models, so if you are 34 in the single rider you are 34 in all other models in their lineup.

 

[jacketjunkie]

Jacket is slightly too big. You could probably get away with it if the sleeves were shorter because it maybe molds better to your body and falls more naturally once it is broken in but as it is now, it looks like you put on your big brothers jacket and not like a custom-made piece that cost more than my first car.

 

[ton312]

I am gonna take a wild guess that the OP is a taller lean built guy so there is the need for custom sizing, in this case a 34 Long? Correct me if I am wrong. While I think the torso contour is good, I also think Himel overshot the length to compensate for low rise jeans, and in the photo the OP is wearing regular rise.

The sleeve cuff is likely intended to clear a Rolex. If the cuffs were tight enough to fall at the wrist then there is no room for the watch. And if the sleeves were to fall at the wrist with the watch clearance then it will feel too short after two weeks of wear. Small price to pay for watch wearing.

I almost wanted to scream out Rainbow Country too but then I realize that the OP might need Long sizing because of his height. And my RC won't clear a bulkier watch.

The horsehide in the photo also seems to be the slightly stiffer kind that needs a little bit of break in. So don't expect the hugging body fit of a softer hide.

The height of the chest pocket is a tricky thing. If it's placed lower then it's feels wierd on the body when a phone is put inside. And I think most people use that pocket for their smart phone these days. I have both the Aero and RC versions of this jacket. My Aero just didn't come with outside chest pocket probably to avoid this problem, and while my RC has lower outside chest pocket it feels too low when I have my phone in there, the bottom of the phone will always be jabbing my stomach and try to swim its way up the pocket bag.

If my assumption about OP needing custom Long sizing, then I think he did ok. The jacket will break in just fine with wear, paired with low rise jeans. If not, get a Rainbow Country!

View attachment 463278

LOL. The phone argument is pretty hilarious for a remake of a 1930’s jacket! I actually think your jacket has it placed exactly where it should be. From an aesthetics standpoint it’s perfect. Tbh I always consider these pockets ornamental. They typically are not wide nor deep enough to hold anything, which is true to the original pockets:

^These pockets seem meant for matchbooks.
This is really the only truly useable chest pocket design for larger items:

This is why small ornamental pockets that are misplaced on a jacket is so bothersome to me…it really serves no purpose other than to look good, so it should do just that. Sorry for letting my Asperger’s slip into the thread. I agree the OP should return this jacket post haste and get one that fits properly.