Hidden in Plain Schott: the 613SH Perfecto

[Aloysius]

One thing I will add is that the smell fresh out of the box is the most delicious and intoxicating aroma I ever had on a new jacket.
Himel´s shinki is nice, Horween CXL is so-so, but this is relly the bee´s knees! Will probably have to buy a new one every six month just for that sensation alone...

Best smell of any leather. It's spoiled me.

Indeed, mine which according to the pocket label was manufactured in 2021 has the heavy square buckle instead of this one.

Likewise, and 2022 manufactured ones did as well.

This is a very recent change. On a related note, I saw that the Japanese equivalents (which did have the mitered buckle) are no longer comically sized with mini chests, so it seems like Schott is now doing the best of both worlds by giving both countries the vintage accurate buckle and the proper V-shaped cut.

Very nice, Tom. Remember it will be the worst it will ever look day 1. Took about 40 or 50 wears for me to start getting some shape. If you think you have some room to spare, I'd suggest getting wet. not a thorough soak, but some rubbing in water here and there, especially sleeves and shoulders/upper pecs. Unlike most leather jackets, I found that this one tightened after breaking in which was weird LOL and ultimately made the jacket too small for me with size 40. Not sure if it was the water treatment, so just be careful, but the water made a huge difference in speeding up the process

Yep, that chest rumple that makes one think maybe the chest is too big (and had me second guessing size) is going to disappear with wear and get closer.

 

[mumpy]

Given the recent mention of lack of back collar snaps on the 613S(H), how does one go by adding a fur collar? Is it easy to add a snap?

 

[Aloysius]

Given the recent mention of lack of back collar snaps on the 613S(H), how does one go by adding a fur collar? Is it easy to add a snap?

I sent mine to Schott to have the snaps installed and then asked them on the off chance if they make real mouton collars on request, which they do. So I had them make me one and it’s the nicest I’ve handled. Extremely lush mouton.

If you’re in the US I would send it in to have a real mouton collar made. Ultimately it didn’t cost much more than getting the faux fur collar and having snaps installed would have.

 

[cajunfries]

I sent mine to Schott to have the snaps installed and then asked them on the off chance if they make real mouton collars on request, which they do. So I had them make me one and it’s the nicest I’ve handled. Extremely lush mouton.

If you’re in the US I would send it in to have a real mouton collar made. Ultimately it didn’t cost much more than getting the faux fur collar and having snaps installed would have.

how much was the MUTTON add?

 

[Aloysius]

how much was the MUTTON add?

Not much more than the faux-fur collar they sell retail. I was actually expecting to buy one of those and asking somewhere to duplicate it, except in mouton–was delighted to discover that they do it directly because it's more seamless and saved me money for better work!

 

[Marc mndt]

This is the Schott store in Tokyo central. So many nice jackets you don't even know where to look first. In the back of the store there's a workshop where repairs and alterations are being done. Not on Schott jackets only, I saw one of the machinist working on a Lewis leathers.

 

[Marc mndt]

This 613sjh was calling my name. It's a limited edition that's only sold in Japan. It comes in black or brown / burgundy Shinki horsehide.

This is what it's going to look like with some wear.

 

[Marc mndt]

This one had some heavy grain on one of the lapels so I asked for another one. Luckily they had a brand new size 42 in stock (the one shown above ^^)

 

[Tom71]

This one had some heavy grain on one of the lapels so I asked for another one. Luckily they had a brand new size 42 in stock (the one shown above ^^)

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Gosh, that’s almost absurdly beautiful!! You did buy it, didn’t you!?!

 

[Marc mndt]

Gosh, that’s almost absurdly beautiful!! You did buy it, didn’t you!?!

Of course I did I fell in love instantly.

 

[nattevagten]

Anyone who has tried both, what's better, the slim fit version of the Aero 'motorcycle jacket' (known as Ridley in the US, I think) or Schott 613S/613SH? Aero might have the edge in terms of leather (CXL, Badalassi), but what about comfort?

 

[Aloysius]

Anyone who has tried both, what's better, the slim fit version of the Aero 'motorcycle jacket' (known as Ridley in the US, I think) or Schott 613S/613SH? Aero might have the edge in terms of leather (CXL, Badalassi), but what about comfort?

I have both. In the same size, they’re both exceptionally wearable. The Ridley/slim bike pattern (mine is specced with bi-swing shoulders–noting because I expect they make a difference) is quite excellent, but so is the 613S(H) pattern.

Visually, the Ridley/slim bike is more of a Y shape, while the 613S is a V (though not a super exaggerated one like some 50s repros–5.5 inch drop rather than 8-10). The measurements are similar but they wear differently due to the different shapes. I like both quite a bit.

I’d say I prefer the leather on my 613SH; its temper gives it almost a blanket like quality when broken in. As for comfort, I find them both about equally comfortable now, but the Ridley actually took longer to break in, despite the leather being much lighter than that of the Schott.

I think this is down to the shape of the jacket, which needs to break in throughout whereas the V-shape, once you’re over the initial stiffness, is pretty much good to go. Perhaps this will be less of the case for someone who is slimmer than me, but my proportions are pretty average/trimmer than average.

 

[mumpy]

This one had some heavy grain on one of the lapels so I asked for another one. Luckily they had a brand new size 42 in stock (the one shown above ^^)

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Looks amazing!

What is the length on that? Looks shorter than the normal 613SH I think.

 

[nattevagten]

I have both. In the same size, they’re both exceptionally wearable. The Ridley/slim bike pattern (mine is specced with bi-swing shoulders–noting because I expect they make a difference) is quite excellent, but so is the 613S(H) pattern.

Visually, the Ridley/slim bike is more of a Y shape, while the 613S is a V (though not a super exaggerated one like some 50s repros–5.5 inch drop rather than 8-10). The measurements are similar but they wear differently due to the different shapes. I like both quite a bit.

I’d say I prefer the leather on my 613SH; its temper gives it almost a blanket like quality when broken in. As for comfort, I find them both about equally comfortable now, but the Ridley actually took longer to break in, despite the leather being much lighter than that of the Schott.

I think this is down to the shape of the jacket, which needs to break in throughout whereas the V-shape, once you’re over the initial stiffness, is pretty much good to go. Perhaps this will be less of the case for someone who is slimmer than me, but my proportions are pretty average/trimmer than average.

Thanks for your reply! Is the pattern of 613SH very different from the regular 613? I have the unfortunate case of being in-between sizes. The 613 in size 38 felt really tight in the shoulders (even on a t-shirt), whereas I was literally swimming in size 40. That said, I quite like the SH version, but perhaps I'd be running into the same sizing issue?

 

[Aloysius]

Looks amazing!

What is the length on that? Looks shorter than the normal 613SH I think.

Sort of. The sizing is basically a match for the 613S(H) except the number is one bigger, so a 44 in the 613SJH measures pretty much exactly like a 42 in the 613SH. As a result, it looks slightly shorter given the same number size.

I think Schott has recently ‘unified’ the pattern for all of its ‘retro Perfecto’ models, US and Japan alike.

Thanks for your reply! Is the pattern of 613SH very different from the regular 613? I have the unfortunate case of being in-between sizes. The 613 in size 38 felt really tight in the shoulders (even on a t-shirt), whereas I was literally swimming in size 40. That said, I quite like the SH version, but perhaps I'd be running into the same sizing issue?

I would say the 613S/SH feels about a half sized down due to the hem and shoulder. So while a regular 618 in 40 felt a little too snug and the 613SH in 40 felt way too small, the 613SH in 42 felt just right. I would call it a ‘size 41’.

So a 613SH in 40 might be the ticket for you; it’s like a size 39.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Japanese market gets all the cool limited stuff. From Western brands.

 

[ton312]

This is the Schott store in Tokyo central. So many nice jackets you don't even know where to look first. In the back of the store there's a workshop where repairs and alterations are being done. Not on Schott jackets only, I saw one of the machinist working on a Lewis leathers.

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Reminds me of the old Chicago store in a way.

 

[Marc mndt]

Looks amazing!

What is the length on that? Looks shorter than the normal 613SH I think.

I don't have a measuring tape with me, but according to the Japanese website it's one inch longer? (Than the 613us)

 

[Aloysius]

I don't have a measuring tape with me, but according to the Japanese website it's one inch longer?

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It’s one inch longer than the 613US (the standard JDM Perfecto, which is 1 inch shorter than the Western ones.)

The UST (‘tall’) and SJH get an additional inch which makes them standard Perfecto length.

 

[Marc mndt]

It’s one inch longer than the 613US (the standard JDM Perfecto, which is 1 inch shorter than the Western ones.)

The UST (‘tall’) and SJH get an additional inch which makes them standard Perfecto length.

Make sense. This is a us model, the 528us. It looks shorter than a regular Schott 613.