Help! Unbranded jeans feel crushing my balls

[Edward]

Unbranded are low rise, hoisting them up too high will not increase comfort. Perhaps something from pike brothers will be more to your liking/comfort.

Yes, this seems to be the issue to me from what the OP says. Some decades ago before Lee pulled their factory out of Northern Ireland, my parents lived not far from it, and we used to regularly drop by their factory shop. The jeans were just the basic Lee stuff - not the much more expensive repop line (I don't think that was around in those days?) - good quality, comparable to the Wrangler 13MWZ I now wear. Problem was they were just too shallow. Cut like modern 501s, sat on the hips not the waist. I couldn't wear them without feeling like they were falling off, but when I went to pull them up there was no more room to pull up. Now that I'm much more aware of this, the rise is one of the most important things I look for in trousers of any sort. I have no time for anything that doesn't come to my natural waistline - no comfort, and looks dreadful too. Unfortunately it's going to take a while yet, it seems, before fashion catches up with anything other than too low and too skinny. Until then, it's a matter of hunting out suitable brands. I find Wrangler 13MWZ "Cowboy Cut" are great at the affordable end of things. Prison Blues also nice. Lutece if it must be selvedge; Freddies of Pinewood do a nice pair of selvedge, though at full price the Lutece are very much better value. SJC, when they do denim, have done some nice bits. There are all sort of other names you'll find in these parts, though TBH I've never gotten into the premium denim thing. For me, £300 is a pair of new boots, or a chunk of a leather jacket, or some nice tailoring. Never been persuaded it's worth paying out that kind of money on a pair of jeans, but that's very much a subjective, personal value thing. If you wear jeans daily and never anything else, the economy of buying something more expensive may be worth it.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Yes, Unbranded are low-rise and that's where the "pinch" occurs. I gave away my one and only pair shortly after recieveing them.

I have a pair of "N&F" jeans and no similar issues.

All my Lee jeans pinched in a similar manner - have not worn Lee's in many years now.

I have had much better luck with Carhartt, Duluth Trading (looser fit). Wrangler Cowboy cut jeans (for a little slimmer fit).
I only have one pair of Selvedge and do not wear them often.

 

[Rich22]

IH 634 has a good top section. I think the 888 share the pattern with higher rise.

I have both and have no 'troubles'.

634 have a normal front rise (11 inch on a 36 waist), while 888's have a high rise (12.5)... their 1955S have an even higher rise (13.5). It's the same for back rise, which is a difficult number to get right- too little and you get the standard builder's butt look that most men are stuck with, and if you have little junk in the trunk you're left with a baggy ass. 1955>888>643 in terms of back rise measurement. I need a normal front rise with a high back rise, so all three pairs of jeans fit me poorly, though the 888's come closest.

I don't like jeans deviating from normal front rise. Ball crushing can occur when jeans are too tight even when the front rise is sufficient. The higher rise IH jeans combined with the particularly wide hips that iH jeans have (lay them flat and compare them to Levi's, noting the much wider angle the legs point out at) causes the diaper-crotch look for me, with lots of unnecessary fabric in the front. If you have a small ass you could hitch your jeans up higher to partially mitigate this, but with a big ass this isn't possible.

Find a pair of jeans that fit you well and just buy lots of that pair.... For example, Levi's 541 fit me well, and I've found no other jeans that do. (Not that Levi's have vaguely consistent quality control, and my 34/32 541 jeans come in a variety of sizes and lengths, and as I import from the US to avoid the 250% markup, I end up with some pairs that are too long/too big/too small for me, that I'm unable to return.)

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Usually we ask for pictures, but I think in this case, we can take your word for it.

 

[AeroFan_07]

This might be a good alternative: https://www.duluthtrading.com/mens-...ens-pants-jeans#start=9&cgid=mens-pants-jeans

 

[born113]

Prison Blues also nice

I am now trying to find and buy these jeans just because of one name/brand

 

[Rich22]

This might be a good alternative: https://www.duluthtrading.com/mens-...ens-pants-jeans#start=9&cgid=mens-pants-jeans

The seldom seen reinforced crotch. A pity they don't offer any detailed measurements. Not sure about the fabric composition, though: 70% cotton/20% polyester/9% rayon/1% spandex. The 1% spandex seems to work well, but I'm not sure why you'd want to add polyester and rayon into the mix...

Gotta love the name, though

 

[Will Zach]

^^
Yeah, the name is genius. Got to admire those creatives that come up with this stuff.

 

[Fifty150]

Prison Blues are available on Amazon.

 

[TheDonEffect]

You bought the wrong fit. Every brand also have different ethos, so you have to find the brand and fit that works for you, and even then different denims wear differently, just like leather jackets.

But raw denim is stiff and is known to "pinch", and knowing you you're probably trying to find 30oz denim or something nuts.

Raw denim is flat out not comfortable in a world of stretch fabric, so fit is absolutely everything unless you have one of those bodies that everything just fits nice.

 

[BlueSteel]

Huh - I suspect you bought the wrong make/model/fit in the Unbranded lineup.

I often find many brands and fits of jeans to be tight in the crotch...so I solved the problem by buying 2 models of Unbranded selvedge and they fit me great.

In a very general sense, if you have this fit problem you cannot buy any jeans identified as "skinny" or "slim". You are going to want at minimum "straight" but even better "relaxed" fit and you are going to want "high rise".

In the Unbranded lineup the absolute best for this is the newish UB669 relaxed fit 18oz slub selvedge. These have a fantastic high rise - in the size 38 the front rise is a serious 13.25" (I bought these and there is plenty of room and comfort in the top block and crotch area despite the stiff 18oz denim).

UB669 Relaxed Tapered Fit 18oz Slub Selvedge With Natural Seed Weft | The Unbranded Brand

This fabric is a heavyweight 18oz indigo raw selvedge denim woven using irregular shaped “slub” yarns. These yarns are thicker in some places than in others, resulting in a denim with a bumpy and uneven surface texture. A natural unbleached cotton fills the weft interior to give the denim its...

theunbrandedbrand.com

Next best (and about 50% cheaper) in the Unbranded lineup would be the UB601 relaxed tapered fit in 14.5oz selvedge. These have a 12.5" front rise in size 38...on the high side of mid/high rise. Also plenty roomy.

UB601 Relaxed Tapered Fit 14.5oz Indigo Selvedge Denim | The Unbranded Brand

The UB601 is our relaxed tapered fit: extra room in the seat and thigh tapering to a very narrow leg opening cut and sewn from Sanforized raw indigo selvedge denim. The midweight 14.5oz cloth is heavier than most denim, but we think it’s the perfect weight for year-round wear. Rope-dyed indigo...

theunbrandedbrand.com

If you didn't buy "relaxed tapered" from Unbranded, that would likely be yer problem right there.

 

[BlueSteel]

Another reason to avoid cheap Chinese jeans...

I'll politely disagree.

I have about 15 pairs of selvedge jeans that range from $40 (Uniqlo) all the way past $400 (Stevenson Overall, Iron Heart, etc.)

My best fitting, most worn, and very well-constructed pairs are Unbranded (made in China/Macau from Japanese selvedge) and Uniqlo (made in China from Japanese selvedge). These are at the very lowest end of the price range I own ($40-$130).

My own conclusion is that there is a ton of BS around the whole raw denim thing. More money does not equal better jeans. Neither does the country where they are stitched assure you of better quality...or of quality that matches the price hike.

 

[Edward]

I am now trying to find and buy these jeans just because of one name/brand

Prison Blues are available on Amazon.

I believe you can also buy then direct in the US: https://www.prisonblues.net

 

[Hh121]

Huh - I suspect you bought the wrong make/model/fit in the Unbranded lineup.

I often find many brands and fits of jeans to be tight in the crotch...so I solved the problem by buying 2 models of Unbranded selvedge and they fit me great.

In a very general sense, if you have this fit problem you cannot buy any jeans identified as "skinny" or "slim". You are going to want at minimum "straight" but even better "relaxed" fit and you are going to want "high rise".

In the Unbranded lineup the absolute best for this is the newish UB669 relaxed fit 18oz slub selvedge. These have a fantastic high rise - in the size 38 the front rise is a serious 13.25" (I bought these and there is plenty of room and comfort in the top block and crotch area despite the stiff 18oz denim).

UB669 Relaxed Tapered Fit 18oz Slub Selvedge With Natural Seed Weft | The Unbranded Brand

This fabric is a heavyweight 18oz indigo raw selvedge denim woven using irregular shaped “slub” yarns. These yarns are thicker in some places than in others, resulting in a denim with a bumpy and uneven surface texture. A natural unbleached cotton fills the weft interior to give the denim its...

theunbrandedbrand.com

Next best (and about 50% cheaper) in the Unbranded lineup would be the UB601 relaxed tapered fit in 14.5oz selvedge. These have a 12.5" front rise in size 38...on the high side of mid/high rise. Also plenty roomy.

UB601 Relaxed Tapered Fit 14.5oz Indigo Selvedge Denim | The Unbranded Brand

The UB601 is our relaxed tapered fit: extra room in the seat and thigh tapering to a very narrow leg opening cut and sewn from Sanforized raw indigo selvedge denim. The midweight 14.5oz cloth is heavier than most denim, but we think it’s the perfect weight for year-round wear. Rope-dyed indigo...

theunbrandedbrand.com

If you didn't buy "relaxed tapered" from Unbranded, that would likely be yer problem right there.

Thank you, I bought relaxed fit and tapered fit, both at 21oz, tapered fit is the most annoying one I feel the rise is too short if when walking, the other measurements are fine.

 

[Brandrea33]

Freenote Cloth is another good option.

Some their patterns are cut with a more generous top block and higher rise if that’s what you’re looking for.

 

[Sloan1874]

I had a pair of Unbranded 21oz as my first foray into raw denim. They were okay, though the rise was far too low for taste and ultimately uncomfortable. They shrank further and for longer than I, or the shop, anticipated - the legs shrank to the point that I could only really wear boots with them - and were never my favourite jeans. In the end, what killed it for me was the cheap metalwork. The waist button came off while was wrestling it through the eye. I had it replaced, but I'd kind of lost interest at this point.
If I was starting with raw or Japanese denim, I would have a go with Japan Blue or TCB. Both are great quality brands, offer a spread of styles and weights at very reasonable prices. I just wouldn't go above 18oz, though, it's just a pain: buttoning is a nightmare, it chafes and the dye that comes off the cloth means it'll turn any tops or t-shirts you wear will develop a blue tidemark at the bottom.
As @Edward says, you really want to look at the rise and fit as your top concerns. TCB have a really comfortable 50s Levis fit, though go up a size as they run small, and Japan Blue have a more contemporary but still decent rise.

 

[bn1966]

I discovered Pike Brothers in Germany and haven’t looked back since.

Home

www.pikebrothers-shop.com

 

[Rich22]

Thank you, I bought relaxed fit and tapered fit, both at 21oz, tapered fit is the most annoying one I feel the rise is too short if when walking, the other measurements are fine.

The rise is too short?? But it has a high rise? Maybe a different measurement is your problem. When the rise gets longer than that you have to hitch it right up or you'll find it difficult to walk up stairs...

 

[born113]

I just wouldn't go above 18oz, though, it's just a pain: buttoning is a nightmare, it chafes and the dye that comes off the cloth means it'll turn any tops or t-shirts you wear will develop a blue tidemark at the bottom.

It's just a matter of materials and style/cut.
Luckily, many sellers have started listing more different measurements for jeans. I have thick thighs and wide hips (not to be confused with fat ass) and I prefer straight jeans from the 1940s and 1950s. Although of course I did not find my style right away.
I enjoy wearing 25oz denim. I do not experience any discomfort (except for the first week) and nothing is stained. And I love to wear thin stretch jeans with elastane.
I think the ideal option is 17oz plus elastane. But I have never seen them anywhere.

 

[Rich22]

Credit where credit is due- Iron Heart's 21oz signature fabric is the nicest material I've had jeans made from. While it is certainly heavy it was very wearable. The heavier IH fabrics are a bit much, though- the 23oz UHR is in a different ballpark, and even after I wore a pair long enough to wear holes in the crotch, they still didn't feel broken in. Haha!