Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

[Darrell2688]

I u

An awl needle has a groove running up one side. A sewing machine needle will not work very well because it does not have the groove.

The thread from the bobbin lays in that groove and then passes through the needle eye.. The tag end which has passed through the eye is the working end. When the needle is pushed through the fabric and then partially retracted the loop forms on the non-grooved side (because it is rubbing against rthe fabric).

se a sewing machine needle and I wrap the thread around the pin in the handle to apply a little tension on the thread and I also use the pin as a guide, I keep facing in the direction that I am sewing. I have put the thread through the loop that is made on the back side of the needle, which would be the side that the sewing awl needle would make a loop on. I just need to get a little more practice, and a couple of sewing machine bobbins filled with brown and black thread to start off with. I will get the hang of it, I ordered some new quilting, top stitch sewin machine needles today.

 

[K.U.Hack]

I u

se a sewing machine needle and I wrap the thread around the pin in the handle to apply a little tension on the thread and I also use the pin as a guide, I keep facing in the direction that I am sewing. I have put the thread through the loop that is made on the back side of the needle, which would be the side that the sewing awl needle would make a loop on. I just need to get a little more practice, and a couple of sewing machine bobbins filled with brown and black thread to start off with. I will get the hang of it, I ordered some new quilting, top stitch sewin machine needles today.

I'll call this the "feed side." As long as the flat faces away, the thread seats in the blood grove and the loop forms in the correct side every time.

 

[LorenWho]

View attachment 542998 View attachment 542999
I'll call this the "feed side." As long as the flat faces away, the thread seats in the blood grove and the loop forms in the correct side every time. View attachment 543000

This is very helpful - thank you for sharing

 

[Keensteen]

INTERESTED Got a friend going thru a divorce who could use a little hat art therapy. We would make it jazzy.Let me know if available. Appreciate it.

This hat arrived as part of a lot I bought at auction. It’s a bit too rough for me to sell so I’m offering it here for free. It has some moth damage and the sweatband is toast. Send me a
PM if you’re interested.

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[milandro]

I would like to have a pencil curl on a Stetson of mine (still not clear about the model , it looks like a Amish or Bolero with a telescope crown) .
It is similar to this (except the feather and J.B Stetson " badge pin " on the left by the bow)

I have attempted some mode work with some decent succes but I am a little squeamish about this. I've read that others have tried and had some problems with this.

The only video that I have found doing something like this is on Facebook (rather then on YouTube) and fortunately it is public because I don't have facebook

this is

McLaughlin & Hayes Hat Co.​

here.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=659223315504195

I thought of sharing this since there aren't too many sources (if someone could download the video and post it for " posterity" it would be a great thing to do. I don't know how... .

 

[belfastboy]

I would like to have a pencil curl on a Stetson of mine (still not clear about the model , it looks like a Amish or Bolero with a telescope crown) .
It is similar to this (except the feather and J.B Stetson " badge pin " on the left by the bow)



View attachment 543273

I have attempted some mode work with some decent succes but I am a little squeamish about this. I've read that others have tried and had some problems with this.

The only video that I have found doing something like this is on Facebook (rather then on YouTube) and fortunately it is public because I don't have facebook

this is

McLaughlin & Hayes Hat Co.​

here.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=659223315504195

I thought of sharing this since there aren't too many sources (if someone could download the video and post it for " posterity" it would be a great thing to do. I don't know how... .

Post your finished work. If you can do it with a thumb/finger more power to you. Guy Morse Brown in the UK sells an inexpensive tool to curl a brim.

 

[milandro]

I didn't say that I was going to do it, I tried to show how it is done by someone whom, obviously can do it

 

[belfastboy]

I didn't say that I was going to do it, I tried to show how it is done by someone whom, obviously can do it

My apologies. I thought when you stated you had attempted some mode work that you had tried.

 

[Darrell2688]

I recently put a pencil curl in the brim of a hat, I used a length of neoprene fuel line that was almost 1/2" diameter size and I had to work on the curl for a few hours and I filled my hand-held steamer 3-4 times, the customer is happy with it. It just took a bit longer to do to make sure the curl was the same height all around the brim and to smooth out any kinks. It wasn't perfect when I was finished the curl, and I don't plan on doing another brim curl without a proper tool, providing I can afford one and you need a complete set on hand because you just never know what the customer will ask for.

 

[milandro]

I am asking around in the Netherlands but nobody seems to have the equipment to do it , even the shop that helped me cutting a brim on two hats (as far as they know they are the only ones with brim cutter) they say they don't have the right equipment nor the expertise to do this

 

[belfastboy]

I am asking around in the Netherlands but nobody seems to have the equipment to do it , even the shop that helped me cutting a brim on two hats (as far as they know they are the only ones with brim cutter) they say they don't have the right equipment nor the expertise to do this

Ester Weiss is a hatter not too far up the road in Antwerp. She could do it.

 

[milandro]

Ester Weiss is a hatter not too far up the road in Antwerp. She could do it.

Cheers, I found another person closer by, Antwerp is 2 hours drive each way...

 

[Darrell2688]

I received good news this morning from the customer that I made a hat for, first he wanted a black hat with a flat brim and a 4" tall telescope crown, I finished the hat and he decided that he wanted the crown to be 3-3/4 tall with a 1/2" pencil curl, I reshaped the hat and put the pencil curl in by hand. Here are two photos of the finished hat, it has a brown leather sweatband, black hat liner and a hat band made of sheep skin complete with black wool. The hat band was put on by the customer. This is the fifth hat that I have sold, maybe I should start thinking about a name and logo?

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I would like to have a pencil curl on a Stetson of mine (still not clear about the model , it looks like a Amish or Bolero with a telescope crown) .
It is similar to this (except the feather and J.B Stetson " badge pin " on the left by the bow)



View attachment 543273

I have attempted some mode work with some decent succes but I am a little squeamish about this. I've read that others have tried and had some problems with this.

The only video that I have found doing something like this is on Facebook (rather then on YouTube) and fortunately it is public because I don't have facebook

this is

McLaughlin & Hayes Hat Co.​

here.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=659223315504195

I thought of sharing this since there aren't too many sources (if someone could download the video and post it for " posterity" it would be a great thing to do. I don't know how... .

Cool video. I can’t see a lot of the felt I have being that easy to shape with just a little bit of steam. Experts always make things look easy. Thanks for posting this.

 

[milandro]

I think he wetted the brim quite a bit and the steam was extra .

 

[belfastboy]

I think he wetted the brim quite a bit and the steam was extra .

The GuyMorseBrown curling tool: wet the felt, steam the felt, heat the stainless steel curling rod on an open gas flame (not too much lest you overheat and burn the felt) and curl a few inches at a time.

Then repeat multiple times.

 

[LorenWho]

I was wondering if there was an alternate source for finished edge grosgrain ribbon in the US. While I have been gathering some of the vintage rayon/cotton from sellers on etsy and ebay, I am noticing that the selection is somewhat limited - especially in the 2" width area.

Is there a non-vintage source of good quality hatting grosgrain ribbon still being made?

Also, what is galloon ribbon?

Thanks!

-Loren

 

[jlee562]

I was wondering if there was an alternate source for finished edge grosgrain ribbon in the US. While I have been gathering some of the vintage rayon/cotton from sellers on etsy and ebay, I am noticing that the selection is somewhat limited - especially in the 2" width area.

Is there a non-vintage source of good quality hatting grosgrain ribbon still being made?

Also, what is galloon ribbon?

Thanks!

-Loren

The stuff Guy Morse Brown is selling online as "galloon ribbon" is manufactured by T.W. Bracher in the UK and you can buy full spools online, but only up to 38mm width. This is the ribbon Herbert Johnson uses.

According to Wikipedia, "galloon ribbon" is the gold decorative trim used on military uniforms. So....dunno.

 

[belfastboy]

Check with Tim at purebeaverhatsupply...he was talking about bringing in stocks. Talk to Catherine at GuyMorse. She is great to work with and may be willing to send samples to you.

 

[LorenWho]

The stuff Guy Morse Brown is selling online as "galloon ribbon" is manufactured by T.W. Bracher in the UK and you can buy full spools online, but only up to 38mm width. This is the ribbon Herbert Johnson uses.

According to Wikipedia, "galloon ribbon" is the gold decorative trim used on military uniforms. So....dunno.

I noticed that I could not find a width any larger than 38mm. Thanks for confirming.

-Loren