Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

[Darrell2688]

Hat making/refurbishing 101
Pay attention to the re-purposed fabric you use on your wood flange for those light colored hats...........
BEST not to used corded sem-ripstop!

Luckily easily remedied.

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I use Muslin cloth that I purchased at the local Walmart store, I fold over a large piece, just big enough to cover the hat brim and the flange, after working on the hat, I let it sit for 2 days. Thank you for posting this information. However if you use cloth and there is even a wrinkle in it, the wrinkle will transfer to the hat felt.

 

[M Hatman]

I use Muslin cloth that I purchased at the local Walmart store, I fold over a large piece, just big enough to cover the hat brim and the flange, after working on the hat, I let it sit for 2 days. Thank you for posting this information. However if you use cloth and there is even a wrinkle in it, the wrinkle will transfer to the hat felt.

Yep, I normally use muslin too....I just was in a hurry and had none at hand so used an old work shirt......

THAT will teach me.....until I do something simular again anyway....

And you are not kidding about any wrinkle.........

 

[belfastboy]

Yep, I normally use muslin too....I just was in a hurry and had none at hand so used an old work shirt......

THAT will teach me.....until I do something simular again anyway....

And you are not kidding about any wrinkle.........

That is one of my adages...."well this will teach me.....at least until I forget."

 

[belfastboy]

I have a young fellow visiting me from Lithuania who desires to become a hatter. I am showing him my process. He is headed to LA to visit a friend and he contacted a few hatters to inquire if he could drop in and have a brief chat about the business. He sent a message to Nick Fouquette and actually received a reply......well actually from Nick's executive assistant. The assistant advised that Nick was available to book an appointment for a 'design consultation' session for $500 and they could use the time to talk if a hat design was not wanted. My understanding this fee was over and above the price of the finished hat.

You were buying $500 worth of Nick's time and design acumen.

Not a bad gig Nick has created.

 

[TWKundrat]

I have a young fellow visiting me from Lithuania who desires to become a hatter. I am showing him my process. He is headed to LA to visit a friend and he contacted a few hatters to inquire if he could drop in and have a brief chat about the business. He sent a message to Nick Fouquette and actually received a reply......well actually from Nick's executive assistant. The assistant advised that Nick was available to book an appointment for a 'design consultation' session for $500 and they could use the time to talk if a hat design was not wanted. My understanding this fee was over and above the price of the finished hat.

You were buying $500 worth of Nick's time and design acumen.

Not a bad gig Nick has created.

I could think of a lot of better ways to spend $500. I won't knock the guy though. If people are willing to pay it, more power to him. I've been a bit surprised how tight lipped some people are in the hat making community. Makes me appreciate places like this where people freely exchange any information and helpful tips that they have.

 

[T Jones]

I have a young fellow visiting me from Lithuania who desires to become a hatter. I am showing him my process. He is headed to LA to visit a friend and he contacted a few hatters to inquire if he could drop in and have a brief chat about the business. He sent a message to Nick Fouquette and actually received a reply......well actually from Nick's executive assistant. The assistant advised that Nick was available to book an appointment for a 'design consultation' session for $500 and they could use the time to talk if a hat design was not wanted. My understanding this fee was over and above the price of the finished hat.

You were buying $500 worth of Nick's time and design acumen.

Not a bad gig Nick has created.

Just to let everyone know, I'm only charging $250.00 for my 'design consultation' services.

Anyway, my newest hat project. It's a redo of an earlier conversion except that this one is done on a Mark Havens 6 inch block. I'll have more later...

 

[belfastboy]

I could think of a lot of better ways to spend $500. I won't knock the guy though. If people are willing to pay it, more power to him. I've been a bit surprised how tight lipped some people are in the hat making community. Makes me appreciate places like this where people freely exchange any information and helpful tips that they have.

In my hat making journey I have found hatters on both sides of the divide. Thankfully there have been many that are gracious and willing to help out, share knowledge and pass on their skills. Then there are others who guard their expertise like Fort Knox. I have found more of the good guys and for that I am grateful and I endeavour to be the guy that shares.

 

[belfastboy]

Just to let everyone know, I'm only charging $250.00 for my 'design consultation' services.

Anyway, my newest hat project. It's a redo of an earlier conversion except that this one is done on a Mark Havens 6 inch block. I'll have more later...

You be the Walmart of design consultants! I am the Salvation Army!

 

[T Jones]

You be the Walmart of design consultants! I am the Salvation Army!

Sounds like a plan!

 

[Darrell2688]

I am still learning with a long way to go, Thank you Robert for all of your help.

 

[Darrell2688]

I recently did a little work on my Granite Grey fedora, I replaced the hat band and bow, and rebashed the hat. The hat is 100% rabbit, the front height is 4 3/4", rear height 4 1/2", 5 1/4" high on sides, the brim is 2 1/2" wide, hat size 7 3/8", the hat band is Vintage Dark Grey Grosgrain ribbon 1 1/2" wide, bow is 5 1/4" long, the bow knot has a little touch of steel blue. I rebashed the fedora, I fashioned the crown top into a teardrop shape, open crown before bashing was 6".

 

[dmeist]

Seems like the felt market has dried up. Can't find it anywhere. All you independent hatters having the same issue?

 

[belfastboy]

Seems like the felt market has dried up. Can't find it anywhere. All you independent hatters having the same issue?

What sources have you been using? Millinery Warehouse has stock as does Tim purebeaverhatsupply. Are you having trouble getting felts from these guys?

 

[dmeist]

Been looking at both. Pure Beaver only show 4 colors available in the 100% beaver, only see 2 on Millinery Warehouse.
Sunrise only have a few of the Nutria, although they said they are expecting a shipment in March.

 

[jlee562]

The Pure Beaver site is showing me about 8 different colors in stock for the dress weight beaver. You might also inquire about pre-ordering.

 

[dmeist]

The Pure Beaver site is showing me about 8 different colors in stock for the dress weight beaver. You might also inquire about pre-ordering.

Yes, saw that . Was looking for Western weight and they are only showing a couple.
I did reach out to Tim @ PB to see about ordering the wt and color I need.

 

[belfastboy]

Yes, saw that . Was looking for Western weight and they are only showing a couple.
I did reach out to Tim @ PB to see about ordering the wt and color I need.

My experience with both Tim & Drew @Millineryh Whse is that you have to jump and order quickly whenever the beaver stock comes in for the full selection of colours. That has been the case with both (more so with Mill Whse) for the last few years.

 

[dmeist]

Second Nutria hat. Tried the 2 tier quality. Turned out nice. At first it was a little blotchy, rubbed it down with coconut oil and it even it out and made it slightly darker. Color is natural.

 

[belfastboy]

Second Nutria hat. Tried the 2 tier quality. Turned out nice. At first it was a little blotchy, rubbed it down with coconut oil and it even it out and made it slightly darker. Color is natural.

Did you give it a light touch on the oil or go heavy to even it all out? Did you find it difficult to render the colour evenly or is there some spots darker than others?

 

[dmeist]

Light on the oil. Areas that were lighter, I would go over several times and press a little harder.
It did come out more even and darker. I was pleased with it. Should have taken a before and after, but then that's hard without proper lighting, etc.
Soaked the Terry cloth in coconut oil and then dabbed it on a paper towel to even it out. Then gently rubbed it over the felt. I did try it on a sample piece first.