I am going to give it one more round of sanding to increase the slope a bit. On 3" brims it is still quite flat and needs just a smidge more. I discovered instead of meditating the sanding of wood has similar effect and is a good use of time.
Here's the rub:
It is a confusing listing. That disclaimer should have been in the description. $2000 is still expensive for what appears to be just the head. You dont get the right presser foot, guage, table, or motor. For $2,400 I received all the above except the presser foot which cost me another $200.
For that serious amount of cash I will continue to hand sew the sweats.
Alden 403 Moc Toe Boot - Brown Chromexcel - $680 The classic "Indy" style Alden Boot in the classic Horween brown Chromexcel. 
Grant Stone Diesel Boot Dark Olive Chromexcel - #395 Goodyear welted, Horween Chromexcel, classic good looks. 
Himel Bros. - The Ross Mk. 1 Leather Jacket Classic D-pocket motorcycle/aviator style jacket.
You got a great deal on yours CWV. Especially if it came with the guide attachment. When I spoke to Mike at Buckaroo some years ago, he informed me that the cost had been going up about $500 per year and that ASM no longer manufactures the machine. JW Hats originally quoted me $2k for just the head, then, AFTER I placed the order, they called back and said they'd made a mistake and couldn't sell it to me at that "low" price. It seems there'll come a time when they won't be available anywhere in the retail marketplace and if I wanted or needed one, I wouldn't wait.
I blocked a very stiff, thick felt for Brent. He wanted the full 6" which means stealing some from the brim. I spent over an hour attempting to get the blocking cord past the crown and over some of the brim to get the 6". Could not get it as the cord would release some when that much pressure was applied. I gave up. But ordered a blocking spring from Guy Morse Brown in the UK. I will snap pics and post tomorrow. They arrived today and it took me 10 minutes to get it done. They are about $20 and work like a hot damn. I now have one for each block size. I have blocks from 3 suppliers and Jerzy's blocks are by far the best.
Yes and no. It only does so much good and then the block tends to just want to tip over. It's easier grip on opposite sides of the brim.
For me the biggest issue was getting the blocking cord over the brim break on the thicker/stiffer/denser felt without it slipping just enough to release the required tension. On more malleable felts it is not a big deal.
I use my home made blocking stands to get leverage and ample room to pull down. Will show pics tomorrow.
I have purchased 2' x 2' plywood, cut out ovals to match 4 sizes of my blocks. ( I can use one size for two blocks sizes with no ill effect) I place the cutout plywood over the still blocked felt which is placed on another 2'x2' plywood and then clamp them together after giving the brim a thorough steaming and steam ironing (with wetted terry cloth cover). I let this sit for 48 hours or so and the brim comes out flat and true. I call these my "flat brim flanges" . I have them in various thickness of plywood and use the appropriate size (3/8", 1/2", & 5/8"depending on how much of the block height I have used. I thne trim the brim when completely dry.
