Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

[belfastboy]

that's the cypress FEPSA. So easy to work with, it felt like cheating. I might snag one more as well if Tim still has some. I bought a moonshine right when he announced there would be no more. I'm waiting to build that one until I get a good 52 block. I may just order another Randal Alan for sake of ease.

What colour is the ribbon? In one of the pics it has strong pink tones.

 

[Frunobulax]

Apparently?

I've only built the two hats from the one Randal Alan block, so perhaps I am speaking out of turn, but that's how it worked for me. I have a 57cm block and made a 56cm sized hat.

To be clear, as Terry posts below, my 7 1/4 blocks are bigger by about 1 cm, leaving enough room for the sweat. If I ordered a 7 1/4 block and got a 58, it would make a 7 1/8 hat and I would be disillusioned.

I have a HSH block for a size 7 1/4. The circumference of that block is a 1/4 inch larger than my actual hat size to make room for sweat installation. My other 7 1/4 blocks, a couple that are vintage, measure the same. Good Lord! It's not complicated! If the block maker doesn't already know this, then find another block maker. Measure your head with a cloth tape and give that measurement to the person who's making your block. Also specify your oval. Like I said, the person making your block 'should' know what you need based on the measurements and oval shape you give him.

Ditto

Terry, your experience seems to jive with Jim’s, but it’s not what either Art said when I was looking to buy some of his vintage blocks when he retired or what Gannon just told me a few days ago regarding new Hatters Supply House blocks. I agree that if you tell the block maker what size hat you want to make they should calculate the sweatband thickness in and give you the right size block. However, I’m definitely not a size 7 7/8, but that is the size of the HSH block Gannon uses to make my hats and that are between 7 5/8 to 7 3/4.

When I think of blocks I try to think of actual circumference measurements rather than block hat sizes.

All of my blocks are vintage, and all of them are a size larger than the marked size. I have no idea who made my blocks but both of my #52 7 1/4 blocks are pretty much the same. I think Art is right, but in my experience the markings have been accurate (enough).

 

[Gobi]

I had to talk to 3 different people at hatter supply house to get an answer and I'm still not convinced it is correct. They gave me the length and width measurements and not the circumference.
What's a good alternative block maker?

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

I had to talk to 3 different people at hatter supply house to get an answer and I'm still not convinced it is correct. They gave me the length and width measurements and not the circumference.
What's a good alternative block maker?

I don't trust the size markings on any of my blocks. I keep a journal where I have recorded each block and the actual circumference that I measured and then I determine which block to use based on the size it needs to be. Somewhere, I have a pdf file of the circumferences for the Hatter's Supply House blocks for each size, I got it from Mark directly before he passed and the business was sold to his wood working partner Kip. Kip always made the blocks though. So far my blocks ordered from Kip turn out to be the size that is in the pdf document. My blocks from JW seem to be a bit all over the place.

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

Good day gents! I'm planning to buy a brim curler from Randal Alan and wanted to ask which size is best for an average sized curl? I'm debating between the 1/2 and the 5/8 ones. I was thinking if I get the 5/8 one I would have the range to do the smaller curls all the way up to the max that the 5/8 curl can do. Is my logic right on that? Would love some advice on this!

You could also consider the one from Guy Morse Brown, a single iron that lets you do multiple curl sizes. I just ordered one even though I have 3 individual curling shackles from JW Hats. I wanted to see how it compares though.

 

[jlee562]

Good day gents! I'm planning to buy a brim curler from Randal Alan and wanted to ask which size is best for an average sized curl? I'm debating between the 1/2 and the 5/8 ones. I was thinking if I get the 5/8 one I would have the range to do the smaller curls all the way up to the max that the 5/8 curl can do. Is my logic right on that? Would love some advice on this!

I've only tried the RA brim curler out once, and there's a good possibility I'm doing it wrong. But....it's not the most effective tool.

I think I'm going to get one of the GMB ones, I know @belfastboy has spoken highly of it.

What colour is the ribbon? In one of the pics it has strong pink tones.

It was from Art, it's called "Green Belly." The pink undertone is less apparent in person.

 

[belfastboy]

I had to talk to 3 different people at hatter supply house to get an answer and I'm still not convinced it is correct. They gave me the length and width measurements and not the circumference.
What's a good alternative block maker?

If you have patience I use HatBlocksPoland. Best prices, great product. hand carved from wood. He takes about 10 days to complete and then I wait (in Canada) about 2-3 weeks for them to arrive. I have my third order in with him. He is on Etsy.com. Iwas going to use RA but he his shipping charge to Canada was stupid and Jerzy in Poland was much cheaper and a better aesthetically looking product.

 

[T Jones]

To be clear, as Terry posts below, my 7 1/4 blocks are bigger by about 1 cm, leaving enough room for the sweat. If I ordered a 7 1/4 block and got a 58, it would make a 7 1/8 hat and I would be disillusioned.






Ditto



All of my blocks are vintage, and all of them are a size larger than the marked size. I have no idea who made my blocks but both of my #52 7 1/4 blocks are pretty much the same. I think Art is right, but in my experience the markings have been accurate (enough).

All of my blocks are vintage, and all of them are a size larger than the marked size. I have no idea who made my blocks but both of my #52 7 1/4 blocks are pretty much the same. I think Art is right, but in my experience the markings have been accurate (enough)

Same here with the vintage blocks I have. The markings on mine have been accurate as well. But, as Art suggested, it certainly isn't a bad idea to double-check the circumferences.

Stamped 7 1/4 on this vintage block

Measures out to 23 1/4 inches, on the money...

My head measures at about 23 inches in circumference

 

[belfastboy]

Good day gents! I'm planning to buy a brim curler from Randal Alan and wanted to ask which size is best for an average sized curl? I'm debating between the 1/2 and the 5/8 ones. I was thinking if I get the 5/8 one I would have the range to do the smaller curls all the way up to the max that the 5/8 curl can do. Is my logic right on that? Would love some advice on this!

Give some thought to the Guy Morse Brown offering. I have it and love it. The upside is that you can control the amount of curl so you only need one of them and it covers a wide range. I like a middle of the road curl so it is perfect....about a 3/8" is my sweet spot. Did not take me long to be competent with it.

 

[Gobi]

If you have patience I use HatBlocksPoland. Best prices, great product. hand carved from wood. He takes about 10 days to complete and then I wait (in Canada) about 2-3 weeks for them to arrive. I have my third order in with him. He is on Etsy.com. Iwas going to use RA but he his shipping charge to Canada was stupid and Jerzy in Poland was much cheaper and a better aesthetically looking product.

I dont mind waiting a while to get it. What style block did you get? His G0032, I believe, has perfectly straight sides. No taper at all but it doesn't appear very tall. His block that ends in 52 which I assume is his #52 block, appears to have some taper front and back. More so than others I've looked at.

 

[jlee562]

Perhaps you can get a better answer out of Jerzy. I asked him if a certain block would suitable for a Boss of the Plains profile, but only got "This is set for creating your own hats. You can cut the width of the brim as you wish."

I have no idea what his system is, so I passed.

 

[T Jones]

Perhaps you can get a better answer out of Jerzy. I asked him if a certain block would suitable for a Boss of the Plains profile, but only got "This is set for creating your own hats. You can cut the width of the brim as you wish."

I have no idea what his system is, so I passed.

I believe Randal Alan made a Boss of the Plains block for Rick Walker @ Phoenix Hat Company. You could probably ask Rick about that if you haven't come across one yet

 

[humanshoes]

I believe Randal Alan made a Boss of the Plains block for Rick Walker @ Phoenix Hat Company. You could probably ask Rick about that if you haven't come across one yet

You're right Terry. Here's an old pic of Randal's Boss of the Plains block and the resulting hat.

 

[belfastboy]

Perhaps you can get a better answer out of Jerzy. I asked him if a certain block would suitable for a Boss of the Plains profile, but only got "This is set for creating your own hats. You can cut the width of the brim as you wish."

I have no idea what his system is, so I passed.

Yes, I am not sure if it is the language barrier or his taciturn nature but communication is not great.

 

[belfastboy]

I dont mind waiting a while to get it. What style block did you get? His G0032, I believe, has perfectly straight sides. No taper at all but it doesn't appear very tall. His block that ends in 52 which I assume is his #52 block, appears to have some taper front and back. More so than others I've looked at.

You can specify the height. I will check my order and see what the number is.

 

[T Jones]

You're right Terry. Here's an old pic of Randal's Boss of the Plains block and the resulting hat.
View attachment 267068

That is one fine looking hat you made, Rick! Nice!

 

[belfastboy]

I dont mind waiting a while to get it. What style block did you get? His G0032, I believe, has perfectly straight sides. No taper at all but it doesn't appear very tall. His block that ends in 52 which I assume is his #52 block, appears to have some taper front and back. More so than others I've looked at.

I ordered initially the G1528 which has some taper and a pronounced dome. The order I await is the CB01 and I specified 15 cm height.....straight sides and only a slight dome. His G1810 looks to be his version of the Boss of the Plains block......that will be my next order.

 

[belfastboy]

I dont mind waiting a while to get it. What style block did you get? His G0032, I believe, has perfectly straight sides. No taper at all but it doesn't appear very tall. His block that ends in 52 which I assume is his #52 block, appears to have some taper front and back. More so than others I've looked at.

One other thing. I had already purchased my flanges in Long Ovals so I sent him a tracing & dimensions of the inside dimension of the flange to make sure his block profile matched my flange. He made the blocks about 5mm smaller to account for the thickness of the felt. If I had not received sucha great deal on the vintage flanges I would have bought both the block and flange from the same maker to insure a proper pairing. What size are you? If you want I may have a tracing for your size scanned and can send to you for reference in case Jerzy does not know what Long Oval means or what size is correct.

 

[jlee562]

I believe Randal Alan made a Boss of the Plains block for Rick Walker @ Phoenix Hat Company. You could probably ask Rick about that if you haven't come across one yet

Yup, he does. I recently inquired with him as well. I was all set to order some more blocks before the impromptu move happened and the block money went to new furniture. Maybe next month! I have a lightweight rabbit body that I got from Art that I'd like to try the BOP treatment with.

 

[T Jones]

Yup, he does. I recently inquired with him as well. I was all set to order some more blocks before the impromptu move happened and the block money went to new furniture. Maybe next month! I have a lightweight rabbit body that I got from Art that I'd like to try the BOP treatment with.

I know the feeling. Always a dollar short. For me, it's always many dollars short!