Harris Tweed Waistcoats - Advice Please

[wdw]

I'm new to the world of Harris Tweed, so can anyone please tell me if they think that there's likely to be a difference in the quality of these two? The prices are significantly different, but I'm not sure why

http://harristweedshop.com/harris-tweed-waistcoat.html
http://harristweedandknitwear.co.uk....htm#!/~/product/category=4657078&id=19843042

Equally, if anyone knows of a good place to get a top quality one, please let me know.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

It's hard to say without handling both but there could be differrences in the quality of the lining and back of the waistcoat and how well made it is (strong seams, buttonholes etc).

Just from the looks I actually like the cheaper one better because the ends appear more pointy. I could be wrong though. Hard to tell on the dress form vs model pictures.

 

[Fastuni]

From the descriptions given, the first one is hand-tailored and has higher quality lining... the description of the lower priced one does not indicate hand-tailoring and the lining appears to be synthetic.

The style of the waistcoats is in a manner virtually unchanged since the late 1960's.
If you want a vintage specimen, there are plenty to be found online.

 

[wdw]

Thanks both. I suppose the more expensive one, being from a shop on the mainland, also includes a middleman's mark-up.

I also like the options with that one, but you soon end up at £155.

I like the idea of buying direct from the islands, but I like the idea of getting it right first time more. Tricky decision.

Actually, I've just found this http://www.walkerslater.com/shop/mens/clothing/tweed-suit-waistcoats.html?limit=all

Luckily for me, the shop is in my town and I've even looked lustfully in the window at the lovely tweed suits. The prices are incredibly reasonable too, so I'll check them out at the weekend. Mind you, I'd prefer 4 pockets and a wider choice of material.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

From the descriptions given, the first one is hand-tailored and has higher quality lining... the description of the lower priced one does not indicate hand-tailoring and the lining appears to be synthetic.

The style of the waistcoats is in a manner virtually unchanged since the late 1960's.
If you want a vintage specimen, there are plenty to be found online.

Yes, but the higher quality (luxury) lining does cost £50 extra. Not sure what their standard lining is. "Silky feel" doesn't say much and satin is a weave, right? Could be vicsose or polyester...

But you are right about the hand finish and the made to order bit. I guess the cheaper brand is pre-produced in standard sizes.

 

[Tomasso]

The price discrepancy is most likely in the quality of the make up. The more expensive ones have more pockets and a self back, features you might want to pay up for.

 

[Hal]

Believe it or not, the Edinburgh Woollen Mill sells Harris tweed jackets and waistcoats. The jackets are 2-button and the waistcoats 5-button, which are styles I don't like; if the jackets were 3-button and the waistcoats 6-button I'd buy them like a shot. I'm not sure if they sell trousers as well.

 

[wdw]

Thanks Hal. We had a look in there for my wife a while back but the branch we were in seemed pretty low quality, so we quickly came back out.

Looking at the site, though, there's a lot more than could ever be in that shop, so I'll have a look at another branch.

Of the 4 places mentioned here, 3 are in the £60-75 range for the basic 2-pocket, whereas the one with more choice starts at £125. That's beginning to seem overpriced, although I don't mind paying for an obvious quality increase.

 

[Methuselah]

Have a look here for a wealth of options:
http://www.tweed-jacket.com/index.html
- although they can't currently take more orders, business must be good.
But well worth considering if you're not in as rush.
I've got one of their jackets & the service and finished product were excellent.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I have read Bookster are closing their business. [huh]

Sad news since I have heard many good things about them in the past.

 

[wdw]

Bookster seems to have the greatest number of options yet, not to mention a potential hefty final cost. They don't want our money though. [huh]

 

[AntonAAK]

FFF is correct. Bookster have sadly gone out of business.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Bookster seems to have the greatest number of options yet, not to mention a potential hefty final cost. They don't want our money though. [huh]

If a business is bankrupt the problem is not they don't weant your money but they can't pay the tailors and other stuff.
I guess if you had already paid for a suit they couldn't even refund the money.



PS: I just read in the Ask Andy forum "Mears" made the stuff for Bookster. So this might be an option for you?
http://bespokemears.co.uk/store#!/~/category/id=4031388&offset=0&sort=addedTimeDesc

 

[Two Types]

Mears made some, but not all, of the Bookster jackets.

The waistcoats and trousers were made by Elite Trousers http://elitetrousers.co.uk/

 

[RegentSt1965]

Got a very reasonable 3 piece tweed suit from Walker Slater when in Edinburgh a few years ago . They also have a store in Fulham.

 

[Edward]

I have read Bookster are closing their business. [huh]

Sad news since I have heard many good things about them in the past.

Mears made some, but not all, of the Bookster jackets.

The waistcoats and trousers were made by Elite Trousers http://elitetrousers.co.uk/

Any idea why they went to different places for different bits of the same suit, as it were? The Mears jackets don't look bad... (Actually, price-wise, they look like a good option for a suit). Good to know that while Bookster may not be around as a front operation any more, the actual manufacturers are still on the go. I could see myself ordering up a new four piece (with spare trews an aw) next year for Autumn 2014...

 

[BladeOfAnduril]

Pardon me.. I don't mean to hijack the thread but noticed that Bookster was mentioned.. Does anyone happen to know who made their overcoats? I was hoping to order one when I discovered their misfortune.

 

[Tomasso]

Any idea why they went to different places for different bits of the same suit, as it were?

That's a common practice in the tailoring biz. The jacket is where a tailor makes his reputation and it's the most difficult garment to make up, requiring the skills of the best sewers. The trousers and vest are considered less important components of a suit and are often farmed out to sewers (many of whom work out of their homes) who are a level below the jacket makers in both expertise and cost. This is done on Savile Row, in Naples, Hong Kong,etc...

Useless tidbit: The DoW was known to have his jackets made on SR and his trousers made in NYC.

 

[wdw]

To close this off, I had a very pleasant time browsing through Walker Slater in Edinburgh. It's a very "traditional" style, nicely old-fashioned shop with a pretty huge range, if you like tweeds, woollens, and country-style clothing and accessories. The staff were also very knowledgeable and helpful, which was good to see. My wife ended up with a lovely wool coat she hadn't planned on getting and I bought this waistcoat:



It's very light, smart and is part of a 3-piece suit I can see myself completing at some point. They also have a branch in London, if anyone’s interested.