Handkerchiefs and Pocket Squares

[vintage68]

I had to laugh when I read your post. I thought you were buying used hankerchiefs at the thrift store! Not pocket squares for your jackets lol I thought why on earth would someone buy old hankies??!!! Too funny

I store mine flat in the drawer as well. Hankerchiefs are folded....;-)

 

[funneman]

My closet has that plastic covered, wire shelving. I put my hats on the top,
hang my ties on hangers under the hats and wrap my pocket squares over the shelves.

It makes it easier to match things up in the morning.

 

[Dr Doran]

My closet has that plastic covered, wire shelving. I put my hats on the top,
hang my ties on hangers under the hats and wrap my pocket squares over the shelves.

It makes it easier to match things up in the morning.

If you'd consider photographing your system and posting it, that could be very useful for us.

 

[djhatman]

As I only use a pocket square once or twice a week i lay them flat and just pull out the one I'm going to wear the night before. Save me time in the morning trying to figure out which one I'm going to wear and I can think better at night then in the morning.

 

[avedwards]

I have a pocket square question of vital importance. If the pocket on the suit is slanted, which seems to be quite normal on a lot of modern suits, can a pocket square folded as a square still be worn or does the slanted pocket ruin the look?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I have a pocket square question of vital importance.

lol lol lol

If the pocket on the suit is slanted, which seems to be quite normal on a lot of modern suits, can a pocket square folded as a square still be worn or does the slanted pocket ruin the look?

From the later 1800s to around 1950, American (and British?) outside breast pockets had openings which slanted upward toward the nearest armhole. Within that time frame, pocket handkerchiefs were very rarely seen with "presidential/TV" flat folds.


Coincidence? Don't think so. You hit the nail on the head: flat-folded handkerchiefs look odd with slanted breast pockets.


In the early '50s, outside breast pockets began to appear with horizontal openings, and flat-folded handkerchiefs became the norm -- at least in the U.S.A.


In the 1990s, fashion designers re-introduced suits and sportcoats with slanted breast pockets. Of course, hardly any men use pocket handkerchiefs anymore, so the effect of slanted pockets on flat fold handkerchief-wearing is a moot one for designers.



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[avedwards]

So how can I fold it?

And it's vital importance as I will need to wear such a suit for the next two years from next week onwards and I'd like to wear a pocket square. Unfortunately the only plain navy, pure wool, modern suit I could find has such a pocket. And checked a lot of menswear shops.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

So how can I fold it?

You can use a puffed silk handkerchief. (Slant the puff a bit.)

Or, try out the plethora of ways to fold the corners (of a cotton or linen handkerchief) into points: http://www.google.com/search?source...handkerchief&aq=1&oq="folding+a+pocket&aqi=g5


Slant the points diagonally, so that the point nearest your armpit is highest, the next point is a little lower, the third point is lower than that, and so on. It's not hard to do, but takes practice. Gentle tugging on each point (after the handkerchief is already in your breast pocket) usually does the trick.


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[avedwards]

I'm trying to picture the points slanted diagonally, but having trouble (I'm tired from travelling all afternoon so brain might not be functioning too well right now). Could you post a picture or link please? It's a shame that the presidental fold won't work because it's the most subtle fold and this suit is to be worn as part of a uniform and it's extremely likely that I'll be the only one with a pocket square so I want to make it subtle.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I'm trying to picture the points slanted diagonally.

I don't have a camera handy, so I'll try with a detailed description.


Let's say that you decide on a 3-point fold. Imagine 3 isosceles triangles peeping out from the opening of a slanted breast pocket. You want those 3 triangles to sweep upward together, with the same slant (/) that the breast pocket has. To create this effect, you must make the 1st triangle (nearest your armpit) peep out highest from your pocket; the triangle next to it must peep out a bit lower; and the 3rd triangle needs to peep out lower than that.


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[avedwards]

I see what you mean now. In that case I might go for a simple one point fold put at a slant, hoping it works OK. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Consider going for a muted (not shiny or satiny) silk handkerchief -- in solid white or cream. Puff folds are easy to make ... and subtle enough if they don't peep out too much from the pocket. If you wish to be conservative, have it peep out no more than 1/2 an inch.


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[avedwards]

I'm thinking white as well. White definitely is as subtle as it can go IMO, especially as I will be wearing a white shirt as well. And silk would be better than cotton then? I just prefer cotton as it can also be used to wipe up spilled tea which happened to me once. However I have one white silk pocket square and I can see why it would be better for a puff.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

For a puff fold, silk is the way to go. I recommend the puff fold for you: it's easy to do and is completely respectable (as long as you don't have it stick out too much from the pocket).


Cotton or linen handkerchiefs don't look so good when puffed: they end up crinkly, like an old paper bag. You'd best wear them folded.


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[avedwards]

When I pick my suit I'll post some pictures then with silk and cotton hankerchiefs (puffed and folded respectively), although I'm already leaning towards silk thanks to your advise.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

My pleasure. Good luck with it!

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[Torpedo]

Hi,

I have recently begun to use square pockets myself - so far, cotton or linen. At present, I have one each white, one powder blue and one pink linen, and three white with different discreetly coloured border details (brown, blue and grey) cotton.

At work, I find all of these can be used, all being discreet enough. I agree folded styles are better for this "subduing" maneuvers, and cotton and linen are the appropriate material for folded styles.

My favourite styles are "Sydney Opera" (which I learned to fold with Marc's tutorial), four peaks, and three peaks. I do not much favour the TV fold; I think the styles mentioned are moderate enough, specially if the points protrude a limited extent out of the pocket, opposite to blossoming out

Of course, just the fact you wear a pocket square is bound to generate atention, because it is a rare complement nowadays, and even more if you use it for daily events (like going to work) and not just special occassions (like weddings, etc), when it is far for common anyway. TV fold is certainly the most discreet if this is an assett.

I plan to acquire and some silk, and maybe some more boldly patterned cotton examples, to use out of work, when some flamboyance is allowable Also, I want to try some styles for which silk is a better material.

Regards!

 

[Cigarband]

The French Method

"A well dressed man should always have a pocket square, generally complimenting the colors of his clothing, but never repeating a pattern. It should be worn as a complimentary accent and not as a formal addition to the ensemble. Thus: Place the pocket square fully opened upon a flat surface. With the first four fingers of the right hand, gather (pinch) the material in the center of the square, lift the square off the surface and allow to hang down. Now turn the hand palm up while continuing to allow the square to hang down. Now thrust the gathered end of the square into the breast pocket all the way to the bottom. Arrange the displayed ends of the square in a pleasing and nonchalant manner and voila!, your ensemble is complete."

Translated from “The Boulevardier” Henri Ruchard, Paris 1903

 

[Dan D]

Contrived elegance.

I think as long as it doesn't appear too contrived, as though one has spent most of the morning folding and adjusting until creases appear in one's eyes, the pocket handkerchief works well; I prefer the Manipulated Stuff, to coin a term perhaps, where it is stuffed and then prinked as little as possible to achieve a casual air; the fold for me seems a little too effortful.

But, as with all things sartorial, whatever is suitable to the wearer and the occasion.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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One way to make cotton/linen handkerchief folds appear less contrived is to soften the edges of their creases as much as possible. Each fold should curve around itself; they should look like flower petals, not origami. To soften the creases, I iron them at their centers.



Avoid the origami look:

Instead, make your folds look rounded, like this:

The result is pleasing. It is elegant yet seems unplanned.



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