Handkerchiefs and Pocket Squares

[Subvet642]

One question about pocket squares.

I picked up a few inexpensive ones recently which are made of coloured silk.
I found some directions on how to fold them here, but the fabric is so thin and soft that I tend to mess everything up when I finally tuck it in my suit pocket.

Are pocket squares like that suitable for folding or do you just stuff them in your pocket and fiddle around until it looks good?

I'm with Pip, just pull the center through your thumb and fore finger formed into a circle to make a "puff", then fold in half and stuff it in your pocket.

 

[Highlander]

I am pretty much with subvet.. I grab the center of the square with my thumb and forefinger, pullit about half way, then tuck it into my suit pocket with the puff in front, and what ever else sticks out, sticks out....

My Dad, a classic dresser (late 40's early 50's style) would always wear a very nice linen handkerchief, with a burgundy cursive M on it, and some curly ques on each side, folded and squared with about 3/4 inch showing to show the Monogram. Looked sharp.

My GrandDad, also a classy dresser(more late 20's, 30's and 40's) used more of the puff look and more of the paisley silks. And often had his fountain pen in his suit pocket if not a pocket square.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Four peaks: my favorite fold. Taught to me by my dad. Few people seem to know how to do it, for some reason.

As demonstrated in this thread: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showpost.php?p=113499&postcount=1


Learn it ... love it ... live it!


.

 

[jamespowers]

I'm with Pip, just pull the center through your thumb and fore finger formed into a circle to make a "puff", then fold in half and stuff it in your pocket.

Agreed wholeheartedly. If it takes more than a minute to fold a pocketsquare then you have moved from well dressed to the Fop category.

 

[Guttersnipe]

The fold I use isn't listed in the above link . . .

. . . I fold lengthwise points similar to the "Sydney Opera House" but only has 3 points and is more floppy, and looks nothing like the Opera House; it's how my grandpa taught me to do it.

I'm going to have to learn "Opera House" fold, though, it looks great!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

If it takes more than a minute to fold a pocketsquare then you have moved from well dressed to the Fop category.

Agreed ... and I can do the "Sydney Opera House" fold in about 10 seconds.

.

 

[Chad Sanborn]

I must be the odd man out. As I stick with 2 basic ones. The 3 points mentions before and one other they call the 3 stairs. With the right square, this 3 step one is hard to beat!

 

[Cigarband]

As Will Boehlke said in his blog “A Suitable Wardrobe”, it’s not acceptable to be insecure about when it’s OK to wear a pocket square. It’s always OK. If a man is wearing a jacket with an open breast pocket, the pocket should have a square in it.

A well dressed man should always have a pocket square, generally complimenting the colors of his outfit, but never repeating a pattern. A white linen or silk square (depending on the texture of the rest of our outfit) almost always looks stylish, and a good quality pocket square helps the wearer achieve that elegant look between flamboyant and plain.

A gentleman would not use a pocket square as a handkerchief and would never put it back in his pocket if he did. A second cotton handkerchief carried in an inside pocket can answer for any such functions.

To which I would add: A true Silk pocket square is only about half a big as a standard cotton handkerchief. This so that it doesn’t push out the breast pocket as originally worn.
Originally in this case being “as a complimentary accent and not as a formal addition to the ensemble. Thus: Place the pocket square fully opened upon a flat surface. With the first four fingers of the right hand, gather (pinch) the material in the center of the square, lift the square off the surface and allow to hang down. Now turn the hand palm up while continuing to allow the square to hang down. Now thrust the gathered end of the square into the breast pocket all the way to the bottom. Arrange the displayed ends of the square in a pleasing and nonchalant manner and voila!, your ensemble is complete."

Translated from “The Boulevardier” Henri Ruchard, Paris 1903

 

[OddSteve]

Thank you for the advice - that seems to work for me!

I like that jacket a lot for spring and summer, although it's sometimes hard to find a matching shirt and tie for it.

 

[avedwards]

A gentleman would not use a pocket square as a handkerchief and would never put it back in his pocket if he did. A second cotton handkerchief carried in an inside pocket can answer for any such functions.

It can function as a bandage if you're hand gets shot (as happends to Charters in "The Lady Vanishes" when he uses Calditcott's pocket square). I'm guessing that doesn't happen very often though, or do any loungers have any interesting stories to tell?

To which I would add: A true Silk pocket square is only about half a big as a standard cotton handkerchief. This so that it doesn’t push out the breast pocket as originally worn.

I always use a hankerchief as a pocket square. If I don't fold it properly but go for the more informal look of pinching it and stuffing it in, my pocket bulges so much that I can't have my wallet in that inside pocket without looking like I'm carrying a concealed weapon. Would a smaller pocket square do the trick?

 

[skyvue]

I like to use vintage cotton and linen handkerchiefs as both handkerchiefs and pocket squares.

Here are some I acquired recently:

 

[jamespowers]

Agreed ... and I can do the "Sydney Opera House" fold in about 10 seconds.

.

I can do mine in two seconds.

 

[Geesie]

For more formal, serious occasions I go with a white linen handkerchief with a square fold* and for more festive I go with silk puff.

*or flat, or TV, or presidential, whatever you call it it's a white strip above the pocket.

 

[KILO NOVEMBER]

Great PDFs on folding pocket squares

This is my favorite set of folding instructions.
http://www.lordwhimsy.com/trifles/tutorials.html. The site provides a nice set of downloadable PDF files showing how to fold each type of square. My favorites are #1 and #3. I buy cheap cotton handkerchiefs and press and fold maybe about a half-dozen of each style and keep them in a drawer. Then if I have used the handkerchief, I just throw it in the laundry and pick up a fresh one.

 

[Tiller]

I use the one point here, but that's me.

 

[Cigarband]

Old Glory

My Patriotic Pocket Square.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

My Patriotic Pocket Square.

*sigh* As if those flag pins weren't enough!



.

 

[Widebrim]

My Patriotic Pocket Square.

Semper Paratus...

 

[Widebrim]

For years I used the presidential, or flat fold with a white, linen handkerchief. Now I go 3 points or puff in different colors. And speaking of matching tie/pocket square ensembles, I have two such sets from the late '50s, and they actually look good!

 

[Dan D]

Pocket handkerchief with waistcoat ?

Dear All,
As someone who regularly wears a pocket handkerchief in the breast pocket of a jacket, I wonder whether it would be appropriate also to do the same in the breast pocket of a waistcoat, on those days (especially in the summer) when a jacket might be shed ?

There is a great set of articles here about the role and function of a waistcoat, but no mention of this particular topic.

The function of the waistcoat breast-pocket escapes me, but a tucked square of silk or cotton might add a neat touch: do others think this suitable, or should I commit myself to an Institution for the Iredeemably Wildean as beyond the pale ?!