"GRAIL" Jackets

[handymike]

If you want character with Lewis, go with the heavy sheep.

 

[Carlos840]

If you want character with Lewis, go with the sheep.

Or the veg tan cowhide for £400 upcharge, that leather looks incredible!
If i ever order new from Lewis again that's what i would go for.

 

[Monitor]

IMO there is barely any difference between their cowhide and their horsehide.
They are clearly aiming for similar qualities/characteristics in both hides.
I wouldn't say one is better than the other, they are both pretty thin, they are both pretty smooth, they both lack character i think.
It's the classic fashion smooth shiny black leather look, don't expect amazing grain or patina.

(the HH does have a bit more "memory effect", it stays in the shape of your body a bit more, and it has a tiny bit more surface creasing, but honestly, going from one to the other is barely a noticeable change)

HH on the left, CH on the right:

Awesome! Thanks for this, though possibly not because I was perfectly content thinking HH is inferior. I gotta say, I kinda like HH more between these two. Just a tiny bit but...

 

[AeroFan_07]

^^ Regarding this, I looked at LL website just for curiousity sake and while they have a detail section for Leathers, they state nothing and show no photos of the Veg-tanned Cowhide. It is however listed under the product "color" drop-down for certain models of jackets. Carlos, do you have any photos of it? Interesting it is so much of an up-charge.

Also there are tons of photos on thier site of well-broken in LL jackets, so somehow character must be able to be developed.

 

[red devil]

^^ Regarding this, I looked at LL website just for curiousity sake and while they have a detail section for Leathers, they state nothing and show no photos of the Veg-tanned Cowhide. It is however listed under the product "color" drop-down for certain models of jackets. Carlos, do you have any photos of it? Interesting it is so much of an up-charge.

Also there are tons of photos on thier site of well-broken in LL jackets, so somehow character must be able to be developed.

Here you go, this the one we saw during the first meetup

 

[navetsea]

Maybe a bit like these guys
View attachment 226209

which one is Crockett which one is Tubbs??

 

[Lebowski]

If you want character with Lewis, go ...

for Shinki HH or Badalassi cowhide or Warhorse HH or old Vicenza HH, or for any midweight part of LW HH.
Gentlemen, have I understood correct?))

 

[Tom71]

This. My taste has settled on one specific thing and I'm happy to have reached that point.

Grail jacket indeed, Monitor! I handled it when I visited the LL shop in London in Feb. A beauty!

Leathers. I really don’t have to add too much to what @Carlos already said, but perhaps a qualification.
LL‘s HH varies A LOT between different batches. I have an older „Lightning“ in a relatively stiff, comparably grainy hide that I like a lot and that I would easily recommended to everybody as a first choice.
Having said that, the „Dominator“ I bought in Feb. is exactly as @Carlos said: smooth, shiny surface, almost rubbery texture, even after some good wear not much character. Not much happening in terms of „moulding“, especially compared to Horween CXL, where the transformation start within minutes of wear. A great jacket in an underwhelming hide.

If you have the chance to visit the shop and get a first hand impression of the current HH, it may well be the right stuff for you.
As concerns the veg-tan CH - you can’t go wrong. Super hide! The price? Mmh, wer are talking grail-jacket here, aren’t we...

 

[Tom71]

If you want character with Lewis, go with the heavy sheep.

Good point!

I tried the „Super Monza“ in Sheep and was pretty impressed. A lot of jacket, you are wearing there! No comparison to the shopping-mall Lambskin, I had in mind.
Seems to age impressively too, judging from photos.

The only thing: I just can’t get my head around wearing a „utility jacket“ in something as soft, non-water repellent and non-abrasion resistant as sheep...

Just my 2cents, of course. If you are thinking more „RocknRoll“ and less „Motorcycle“, @ Handymike has a great point here.

 

[Monitor]

Grail jacket indeed, Monitor! I handled it when I visited the LL shop in London in Feb. A beauty!

Leathers. I really don’t have to add too much to what @Carlos already said, but perhaps a qualification.
LL‘s HH varies A LOT between different batches. I have an older „Lightning“ in a relatively stiff, comparably grainy hide that I like a lot and that I would easily recommended to everybody as a first choice.
Having said that, the „Dominator“ I bought in Feb. is exactly as @Carlos said: smooth, shiny surface, almost rubbery texture, even after some good wear not much character. Not much happening in terms of „moulding“, especially compared to Horween CXL, where the transformation start within minutes of wear. A great jacket in an underwhelming hide.

If you have the chance to visit the shop and get a first hand impression of the current HH, it may well be the right stuff for you.
As concerns the veg-tan CH - you can’t go wrong. Super hide! The price? Mmh, wer are talking grail-jacket here, aren’t we...

Thank you for the info! Hm, the ladies Dominator I briefly had was made in what I'd possibly call the best cowhide I've seen. It was astonishing how quality that jacket was which is why I fear I'd feel cheated by buying a new LL in anything less than perfect but we all know it's silly to expect this with any hide as no two are alike.

Well anyway, the problem with the Memphis is that Lewis Leathers won't do it in any leather other than their horsehide. Not sure why, they just flat out refuse to do it and the customer service person didn't expect the policy to change any time soon. Maybe something to do with Guitar Wolf, I really don't know but horsehide is what I'd be stuck with if I ever go thru with an order.

It's a perfect jacket, though... Really beautiful.

But in the end, if it comes out like on the photo above, I'm happy!

 

[Carlos840]

Grail jacket indeed, Monitor! I handled it when I visited the LL shop in London in Feb. A beauty!

Leathers. I really don’t have to add too much to what @Carlos already said, but perhaps a qualification.
LL‘s HH varies A LOT between different batches. I have an older „Lightning“ in a relatively stiff, comparably grainy hide that I like a lot and that I would easily recommended to everybody as a first choice.
Having said that, the „Dominator“ I bought in Feb. is exactly as @Carlos said: smooth, shiny surface, almost rubbery texture, even after some good wear not much character. Not much happening in terms of „moulding“, especially compared to Horween CXL, where the transformation start within minutes of wear. A great jacket in an underwhelming hide.

If you have the chance to visit the shop and get a first hand impression of the current HH, it may well be the right stuff for you.
As concerns the veg-tan CH - you can’t go wrong. Super hide! The price? Mmh, wer are talking grail-jacket here, aren’t we...

I don't think the price of that Veg Tan hide is actually that bad if you think about it.
Take the new FieldLeathers for example, £850 for Badalassi, £1000 for Shinki, unknown maker.
Diamond clothing, regular leather $949, Shinki $1149, unknown maker.
Bill Kelso, £800 for "regular" Liberty, £1850 for fancy Victory hide (not sure that's even still available).
Lewis Leathers, £850 for "regular" leather £1250 for fancy veg tan Cowhide, from a world famous maker worn by all the stars...

IMO the LL veg tan cow is the leather to go for, even with the upcharge it's still a better deal than any Japanese made Shinki jacket, still cheaper than LW, FW, RMC, Langlitz, and many other makers that we don't have a problem paying more money for.

Edit: and i agree that the sheep is very nice, especially the dark green one.

 

[Tom71]

I don't think the price of that Veg Tan hide is actually that bad if you think about it.
Take the new FieldLeathers for example, £850 for Badalassi, £1000 for Shinki, unknown maker.
Diamond clothing, regular leather $949, Shinki $1149, unknown maker.
Bill Kelso, £800 for "regular" Liberty, £1850 for fancy Victory hide (not sure that's even still available).
Lewis Leathers, £850 for "regular" leather £1250 for fancy veg tan Cowhide, from a world famous maker worn by all the stars...

IMO the LL veg tan cow is the leather to go for, even with the upcharge it's still a better deal than any Japanese made Shinki jacket, still cheaper than LW, FW, RMC, Langlitz, and many other makers that we don't have a problem paying more money for.

Edit: and i agree that the sheep is very nice, especially the dark green one.

Agreed!

The math works if you compare it to the LL-knockoffs from Addict Japan too: Their „Lightning“ or „Dominator“ clones retail at around EUR 1.300, but once you have them at your doorstep with customs your are talking more like EUR 1.600.

 

[Tom71]

Thank you for the info! Hm, the ladies Dominator I briefly had was made in what I'd possibly call the best cowhide I've seen. It was astonishing how quality that jacket was which is why I fear I'd feel cheated by buying a new LL in anything less than perfect but we all know it's silly to expect this with any hide as no two are alike.

Well anyway, the problem with the Memphis is that Lewis Leathers won't do it in any leather other than their horsehide. Not sure why, they just flat out refuse to do it and the customer service person didn't expect the policy to change any time soon. Maybe something to do with Guitar Wolf, I really don't know but horsehide is what I'd be stuck with if I ever go thru with an order.

It's a perfect jacket, though... Really beautiful.

But in the end, if it comes out like on the photo above, I'm happy!

I like LL for a number of reasons (history, star-appeal, britishness; plus: they are really nice people), so I am biased, but I don’t think you can do really wrong with the Memphis at all. Not as long as you have your LW as option B for those days where you need a bit more „in your face!!“.

 

[Marc mndt]

it's on ebay, but too small and too expensive for me....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Horsehide-leather-jacket-40s-50s/153870816346?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=225086&meid=d28f7b9ffbf44a149664c1ae29c7f7ed&pid=100675&rk=1&rkt=15&mehot=none&sd=153870816346&itm=153870816346&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:b03d5f11-6d4e-11ea-856c-74dbd180715d|parentrq:095585911710a9c573134b96ffc586a4|iid:1

Looks like Bill kelso now makes your grail jacket!

https://billkelsomfg.com/shop/product/4-pockets-half-belt-jacket/

 

[handymike]

yeah...but...

 

[ton312]

Although I’ve often thought and still believe the notion of a grail jacket doesn’t exist (at least for me) I will say this true vintage 50’s Goodgal shearling lined horsehide comes closer than any. I will keep this jacket forever, and likely have the shearling replaced after next winter. This one my daughter can sell. Everything else is always up for grabs. Certainly not the “nicest” jacket I’ve ever owned and I can’t even explain it. It feels real in a way none of my others ever have. Like the big brother they all wanted to be. True grit.

 

[AeroFan_07]

^^ Amazing Tony! What a great fit! The Horsehide on that one is sure a work of art as well.

 

[ralanis2]

One of the most Beautiful Cafe Racers I've ever seen! Can anyone identify the brand and type of leather? It looks like horsehide but I'm still learning so I wouldn't know for sure.

 

[ralanis2]

It’s either British or Canadian...zipper pull is on the left... rounded throat closure, main zip all the way to the bottom, shoulder gussets...
Probably made of steerhide.
View attachment 241705
View attachment 241704

Man, I've seen this jacket on this dude from time to time and every time I see it, it looks so badass. British, maybe
Matchless? At first i thought it was Japanese but Still learning about the zipper placements and hardware

 

[Monitor]

View attachment 241696 View attachment 241697 View attachment 241698 One of the most Beautiful Cafe Racers I've ever seen! Can anyone identify the brand and type of leather? It looks like horsehide but I'm still learning so I wouldn't know for sure.

Jean Shop NYC Cafe Racer. Horsehide, goat or steer. They're mostly custom made tho they have some OTR models.