glossy finish on B-3 / B-6

[RainLikeGravel]

Hi,
I may belong to a minority, but I especially like a glossy finish on seal brown sheepskin jackets such as a B-3 or B-6.
Maybe someone here can give my an advise how to "lacquer" or "shine" my Eastman B-6, which is well worn at the moment, and very matte in finish. Of course without hurting the leather and fleece. Any products for this use? Acrylic or nitrocellulose lacquer, maybe, or not?
As a reference for the look you may remember the D-1, this german spion wore in Billy Wilder's "Stalag 17". Thanks, Thomas

 

[John Lever]

There is a product used in the dry cleaning industry called ' Napalene' which will put a shine on dulled leather. Other products used on saddlery leather will produce a similar shine. In WW2 cellulose lacquer was used to re-finish jackets.
I never tried it but I believe regular gloss varnish thinly applied with a cloth will do it.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Ha!
Ken Calder once told me to spray lemon Pledge on a cloth and wipe on my B6..then buff to give it a nice luster. It worked...but didn't give it a mirror shine. Perhaps...if I'd tried a little harder. It is a wax.
HD

 

[H.Johnson]

I recently made a D-1 replica and I made up a poly-acrylate laquer to the specification that Glenn Sweeting says was used in WW2. It's basically acrylic varnish and thinner. It's very glossy - perhaps too much so - but I've seen WW2 B&W photos of what are probably new jackets that look very similar. I wait and see whether it will crack. Many originals have.

It's a coating (like a varnish) not a polish. You won't get the same effect with a wax polish - I tried a sample first. I can't guarantee that you'll get the same effect on a used jacket - I would think that a smooth base was necessary for the proper effect.

 

[RainLikeGravel]

Thanks for useful advises, guys. Very much appreciated. I'll try something out.

By the way: I recently purchased Eastman's new B-3 in broken grain sheepskin, and this very tough leather surface develops a shine while wearing in, up to my notice.

Thanks again, Thomas.

 

[John Lever]

I recently made a D-1 replica and I made up a poly-acrylate laquer to the specification that Glenn Sweeting says was used in WW2. It's basically acrylic varnish and thinner. It's very glossy - perhaps too much so - but I've seen WW2 B&W photos of what are probably new jackets that look very similar. I wait and see whether it will crack. Many originals have.

It's a coating (like a varnish) not a polish. You won't get the same effect with a wax polish - I tried a sample first. I can't guarantee that you'll get the same effect on a used jacket - I would think that a smooth base was necessary for the proper effect.

Did you spray it on or use a brush?
Presumable this is not the same as acrylic varnish which is milky until it dries clear ?

 

[H.Johnson]

John

I sprayed it, although I understand that both methods were used in WW2. I guess that if hides were being treated it would be sprayed and if used on made up jackets (which experts assured me happened) it would make sense to paint it on. I used it on the sheepskin before I cut it to pattern.

I was slightly milky until it dried. I understand that artists used a similar varnish.

 

[John Lever]

That's interesting. It sounds like the type of varnish I sometimes use. Please can you tell me the make ?
I think if this were applied over a surface that was completely wax free, it would flake off quickly.

 

[H.Johnson]

Refinishing Sheepskin

John,

I followed the instructions in the USAAF Technical Instruction 13-1-10 dated 13 October 1943 entitled 'Clothing - Refinishing Sheepskin Type Clothing'. This begins as follows:
'1. GENERAL
A wide spread condition of unserviceable and unsightly sheepskin clothing has resulted due to extreme war and the use of some poorly tanned leater in the manufacture of this clothing. After a period of service use these garments become faded, cracked, and peeled. To augment further serviceability and to enhance their appearance sheep shearling (sic) garments will be refinished (sic) in accordance with the procedure outlined herein'.
Note the use of the term 'refinished' I am not sure if this implies that the first (leather finisher's or manufacturer's) finish was done in this way. That is what I intend to examine by experiment.

This describes the full process in 3 stages clearly as follows:
- Cleaning the garment with acetone (if required) using a soft cloth;
- Applying the poly-acrylate dye using a brush or 'a piece of rug using the nap side' (with water extension as required);
- Applying the top-finish laquer with a spray gun (a DeVilbiss type P-MBC is suggested) which 'weatherproofs the garment'.

The stock number of the polyacrylate leather dye was 7300-03000 and the (acrylic) laquer top-finsh was 7300-403920. An equivalent polyacrylate dye can be found as leather dye from most manufacturers. I don't know of any equivalent proprietary acrylic lacquer - a chemist friend made mine up from the AF stock specification. As I mentioned before it seems too glossy to me, but experiments continue...

 

[John Lever]

That's very thorough. I don't think the DIY stuff in the tins can be the same.

 

[saabpilot]

I wonder if my WPG B3 could benefit from this coating since it is basically uncoated shearling. I'd welcome anyone's input.

BTW -- this is my first post at FL.