German & Austrian Hutmachers

[Steve1857]

Steve, Thank you! You are correct. It's rare to see such Sweatbands on Soft and Stiff Felt Hats.

Here is a J.Hückel´s Söhne "Flexible" Homburg.

Johann Hückel´s Söhne - Hückel Hutfabrik Weilheim

germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com

Interesting, Steve.

My understanding is, the white sweatbands on top hats are for formal evening wear.
Black sweats were for day/work wear.

White leather sweatbands on a Bowler are unusual, but might suggest the class changes in Europe during the 20s and 30s after WWI.

 

[mayserwegener]

Interesting, Steve.

My understanding is, the white sweatbands on top hats are for formal evening wear.
Black sweats were for day/work wear.

White leather sweatbands on a Bowler are unusual, but might suggest the class changes in Europe during the 20s and 30s after WWI.

Steve, I have some other Stiff Felts with white or light gray Sweatbands. Here are a couple Anton Pichler Graz Stiff Felts with White Sweatbands but they are possibly late 1920s and 1930s. In general new high quality Stiff Felts in Central Europe were formal.

Anton Pichler Hutfabrik, Josef Pichler & Söhne

Anton Pichler Graz, Austria.

germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com

Anton Pichler Hutfabrik, Josef Pichler & Söhne

Anton Pichler Graz, Austria.

germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com

 

[mayserwegener]

Anton Peschel Neutitschein (APN) Metal Display Plate (7 cm x 3.5 cm), possibly 1920s / 1930s.

 

[M Hatman]

Circa 1915, German Poster Stamps.....First two allow the hatter to stamp their information, the third according to google translate (which does not always account for 100 year old language differances very well) is for Brown's Discount Market and advertises their Top Hats and indicates "you are a wretch if you don't have one" ....the last is for a Movie but features a man in a Tyrolean.....I like them all but my favorite is the inside the hat shop illustration stamp......

 

[Steve1857]

Circa 1915, German Poster Stamps.....First two allow the hatter to stamp their information, the third according to google translate (which does not always account for 100 year old language differances very well) is for Brown's Discount Market and advertises their Top Hats and indicates "you are a wretch if you don't have one" ....the last is for a Movie but features a man in a Tyrolean.....I like them all but my favorite is the inside the hat shop illustration stamp...... View attachment 419864 View attachment 419865 View attachment 419866 View attachment 419867

Great finds, Mark. Do you have a clearer photo of the text for the Braune?

 

[M Hatman]

Great finds, Mark. Do you have a clearer photo of the text for the Braune?

This is about it...some of the problem is the printing.....

 

[Steve1857]

This is about it...some of the problem is the printing..... View attachment 419949

Thanks Mark. That is a fun rhyme, though not all of it is decipherable.

It's a play on an old German song.
Here's the "original" version. I agree with the message of this one: you can't have too many Top Hats

https://www.volksliederarchiv.de/schoen-ist-ein-zylinderhut/

 

[mayserwegener]

Circa 1915, German Poster Stamps.....First two allow the hatter to stamp their information, the third according to google translate (which does not always account for 100 year old language differances very well) is for Brown's Discount Market and advertises their Top Hats and indicates "you are a wretch if you don't have one" ....the last is for a Movie but features a man in a Tyrolean.....I like them all but my favorite is the inside the hat shop illustration stamp...... View attachment 419864 View attachment 419865 View attachment 419866 View attachment 419867

Mark, Super! I have some of these stamps. This is my favorite.

 

[M Hatman]

Mark, Super! I have some these stamps. This is my favorite.

I can see why that is your favorite!!!! )))

 

[mayserwegener]

I can see why that is your favorite!!!! )))

Mark, Thank you! I just received some advert items I think you will like.

 

[mayserwegener]

DIE BÜHNE (Wien), "Kleider machen Leute, der Hut — den Herrn", Von KommerziaIrat Richard Schwarz / THE STAGE (Vienna), " Clothes Make the Man, The Hat— The Gentleman", By Commercial Counselor Richard Schwarz, Issue 232 1929. Österreichische Nationalbibliothek

What use is the most beautiful suit, if hat, tie and shoe are not in harmony with it or even shabby!
Unfortunately, it is still not clear to every gentleman (or, say, every Austrian) that he can give his appearance only through the correctly chosen tie, the correctly chosen hat that harmony, which appears elegant and distinguished. The Englishman and the American have recognized this for a long time and this year they turn their wisdom all the more eagerly as the fashion is particularly colorful.

What is modern? What’s gonna be modern? The lightweight velour hat, which is a specifically Austrian product. It is already heavily bought by England, France and America. One hand washes the other: in return for this comes the Panama, which was already worn strongly last season in England and America. Ecuador is already rubbing its hands with pleasure.

As far as the shapes are concerned, the "Snapper" is no longer bent slightly at the front, but rather strongly. On the other hand, for elegant wearing it is not bent at all and lets it, in its calm form, imitate the "Homburg" a rimmed hat . This elegant hat still reigns supreme, especially in bright colors.

For those gentlemen who love their comfort and sigh heavily under the torments of the proper suit during the heat of summer, I also have a joyful message: The American fashion of jacketless is also becoming a fixture in Western countries in Europe, and is likely to permeate our territory as well. In the summer you will wear the silk shirt with the beautiful, cheerful tie and no jacket - with a light, elegant hat, which will be either a "Snapper" or a Panama. So also with this half negligent dress it will be the hat, which gives the outfit and the whole appearance of the gentleman the elegant touch.

Side Note: I usually avoid fashion related articles but I found this one interesting because it mentions a Light Weight Austrian Velour Hat and a the Jacketless trend / movement circa 1929. The bottom right photo is of a man wearing a slightly snapped (normally worn without snap) Lightweight Velour with tie but without jacket.

 

[Steve1857]

DIE BÜHNE (Wien), "Kleider machen Leute, der Hut — den Herrn", Von KommerziaIrat Richard Schwarz / THE STAGE (Vienna), " Clothes Make the Man, The Hat— The Gentleman", By Commercial Counselor Richard Schwarz, Issue 232 1929. Österreichische Nationalbibliothek

What use is the most beautiful suit, if hat, tie and shoe are not in harmony with it or even shabby!
Unfortunately, it is still not clear to every gentleman (or, say, every Austrian) that he can give his appearance only through the correctly chosen tie, the correctly chosen hat that harmony, which appears elegant and distinguished. The Englishman and the American have recognized this for a long time and this year they turn their wisdom all the more eagerly as the fashion is particularly colorful.

What is modern? What’s gonna be modern? The lightweight velour hat, which is a specifically Austrian product. It is already heavily bought by England, France and America. One hand washes the other: in return for this comes the Panama, which was already worn strongly last season in England and America. Ecuador is already rubbing its hands with pleasure.

As far as the shapes are concerned, the "Snapper" is no longer bent slightly at the front, but rather strongly. On the other hand, for elegant wearing it is not bent at all and lets it, in its calm form, imitate the "Homburg" a rimmed hat . This elegant hat still reigns supreme, especially in bright colors.

For those gentlemen who love their comfort and sigh heavily under the torments of the proper suit during the heat of summer, I also have a joyful message: The American fashion of jacketless is also becoming a fixture in Western countries in Europe, and is likely to permeate our territory as well. In the summer you will wear the silk shirt with the beautiful, cheerful tie and no jacket - with a light, elegant hat, which will be either a "Snapper" or a Panama. So also with this half negligent dress it will be the hat, which gives the outfit and the whole appearance of the gentleman the elegant touch.

Side Note: I usually avoid fashion related articles but I found this one interesting because it mentions a Light Weight Austrian Velour Hat and a the Jacketless trend / movement circa 1929. The bottom right photo is of a man wearing a slightly snapped (normally worn without snap) Lightweight Velour with tie but without jacket.

A very interesting find, Steve. Fashion related articles can be of great use when detecting changes in style, new trends, etc.

The Lightweight Velour definitely does not look like it wants to be snapped down. A bit like snap down Homburgs introduced more or less during the same period.

 

[M Hatman]

DIE BÜHNE (Wien), "Kleider machen Leute, der Hut — den Herrn", Von KommerziaIrat Richard Schwarz / THE STAGE (Vienna), " Clothes Make the Man, The Hat— The Gentleman", By Commercial Counselor Richard Schwarz, Issue 232 1929. Österreichische Nationalbibliothek

What use is the most beautiful suit, if hat, tie and shoe are not in harmony with it or even shabby!
Unfortunately, it is still not clear to every gentleman (or, say, every Austrian) that he can give his appearance only through the correctly chosen tie, the correctly chosen hat that harmony, which appears elegant and distinguished. The Englishman and the American have recognized this for a long time and this year they turn their wisdom all the more eagerly as the fashion is particularly colorful.

What is modern? What’s gonna be modern? The lightweight velour hat, which is a specifically Austrian product. It is already heavily bought by England, France and America. One hand washes the other: in return for this comes the Panama, which was already worn strongly last season in England and America. Ecuador is already rubbing its hands with pleasure.

As far as the shapes are concerned, the "Snapper" is no longer bent slightly at the front, but rather strongly. On the other hand, for elegant wearing it is not bent at all and lets it, in its calm form, imitate the "Homburg" a rimmed hat . This elegant hat still reigns supreme, especially in bright colors.

For those gentlemen who love their comfort and sigh heavily under the torments of the proper suit during the heat of summer, I also have a joyful message: The American fashion of jacketless is also becoming a fixture in Western countries in Europe, and is likely to permeate our territory as well. In the summer you will wear the silk shirt with the beautiful, cheerful tie and no jacket - with a light, elegant hat, which will be either a "Snapper" or a Panama. So also with this half negligent dress it will be the hat, which gives the outfit and the whole appearance of the gentleman the elegant touch.

Side Note: I usually avoid fashion related articles but I found this one interesting because it mentions a Light Weight Austrian Velour Hat and a the Jacketless trend / movement circa 1929. The bottom right photo is of a man wearing a slightly snapped (normally worn without snap) Lightweight Velour with tie but without jacket.

That second picture is killer....I have never seen a camber style worn with a "short snap" like that in an ad...most unusual BUT that is what happens on those hats...I have a German Camber just like that that I tried to snap to that same result...but to my eye appeared "off" (as it does in this ad to me) so I just wear it brim up.....as an aside It was modeled that way (short snap) and had been worn that way for some time....when it arrived and I decided I did not like it....I gave it some steam to restore the full flange. I did get it from Germany........

 

[Steve1857]

That second picture is killer....I have never seen a camber style worn with a "short snap" like that in an ad...most unusual BUT that is what happens on those hats...I have a German Camber just like that that I tried to snap to that same result...but to my eye appeared "off" (as it does in this ad to me) so I just wear it brim up.....as an aside It was modeled that way (short snap) and had been worn that way for some time....when it arrived and I decided I did not like it....I gave it some steam to restore the full flange. I did get it from Germany........

That's the great thing about hats, they don't all fit one shape or style.

Some of my Cambers look fine snapped down, others not so.

Likewise, some of my Homburgs cry out for pinches, while others just don't want or need them.

Vive le chapeau

 

[mayserwegener]

A very interesting find, Steve. Fashion related articles can be of great use when detecting changes in style, new trends, etc.

The Lightweight Velour definitely does not look like it wants to be snapped down. A bit like snap down Homburgs introduced more or less during the same period.

Steve, Thanks! I agree but my guess is the brim is not so stiff. It's Camber like so would probably cover the eyes if fully snapped.

 

[mayserwegener]

That second picture is killer....I have never seen a camber style worn with a "short snap" like that in an ad...most unusual BUT that is what happens on those hats...I have a German Camber just like that that I tried to snap to that same result...but to my eye appeared "off" (as it does in this ad to me) so I just wear it brim up.....as an aside It was modeled that way (short snap) and had been worn that way for some time....when it arrived and I decided I did not like it....I gave it some steam to restore the full flange. I did get it from Germany........

Mark, I agree. As I mentioned above if it was fully snapped it would cover the eyes.

 

[mayserwegener]

Seidels Reklame, "Habig Wien / Vienna, Das historische Fenster der Hutfirma / The Historical Window of the Hat Company P. & C. Habig", Issue 3 1925. Österreichische Nationalbibliothek

"Once the Habig Collection"

 

[mayserwegener]

Profil, Österreichische Monatsschrift für bildende Kunst / Austrian Monthly for Visual Arts , "DAS WOCHENENDHAUS / THE WEEKEND HOUSE , AUSTRIA IN LONDON, LAGEPLAN DER WOCHENENDHÄUSER SITE PLAN WEEKEND HOUSES, IM HOFE DES MESSEPALASTES / IN THE COURTYARD OF THE EXHIBITION PALACE,
Herausgegeben von der Zentralvereinigung der Architekten Österreichs. Organ der Zentralvereinigung der Architekten Österreichs und des Neuen Werkbundes Österreichs / Published by the Central Association of Architects in Austria. Organ of the Central Association of Austrian Architects and the New Austrian Work Federation, 2nd year, May 1934. Österreichische Nationalbibliothek

The Austrian Exhibition' in London, 1934. P. & C. Habig Wien was part of the exhibition. There is a photo of their booth in the Vienna Shopping Street room.

The Austrian Exhibition'
in London

At the top of our second photo report on the Austrian exhibition in London we place the portrait of Se. Excellency Baron Frankenstein, the Austrian envoy to the Royal
Hofe, who worked tirelessly to ensure the success of this important undertaking.

Fig. 350 Viktor Hammer, portrait of Se. Excellency, of the Austrian
Ambassador to London, Baron Dr. Frankenstein

Above: Edwin Grienauer,
Design for the New
Austrian National Coat of Arms

Shopping Street, Draft: C. Kosak, Execution of the Painting: F. Zülow and M. Frey

After we already reported in the 4th issue of our magazine about the equipment of the advertising spaces for tourism, this time we are showing pictures of some exhibition halls, which
specially equipped for special tasks. Some of them are kept very simple and are only effective through the generous distribution of colors.

Fig. 352 Booth of the Hat Factory P. & C. Habig at the Austrian Exhibition in London

The furnishing of all the booths in the shopping street were designed by E. Wörle.

It would be a pointless beginning to give an overview of the works of art on display in addition to everything else on the few pages available to us, or even to want to highlight the so-called "most representative" works with three or four illustrations. We shall report on the arts and crafts another time and have fundamental things to say. When the Austrian architects arrived in London, Docland Hall, the Exhibition Grounds, was a mess of boards, scrap and
semi-finished floors. Despite the difficulties, it was possible to complete the exhibition in 14 days with all energy exerted.

 

[mayserwegener]

Hückel Weilheim "Chevreau", 59 cm possibly later 1950s. The Chamois Felt is lighter in weight and easily dry creases. This one has a unique braided Band and unique small feather (probably to match the band).

Open Crown

 

[M Hatman]

Hückel Weilheim "Chevreau", 59 cm possibly later 1950s. The Chamois Felt is lighter in weight and easily dry creases. This one has a unique braided Band and unique small feather (probably to match the band).

Open Crown

Oh yes....THAT would be one to leave the feather.....as it did likely come with it.....I have a few like that...and I left them. NICE hat...love that color! It's a shame it is not a size 60......