German & Austrian Hutmachers

[davidraphael]

Great research!

Wilhelm Zeumer was a gross-Kürschnerei, which, I gather, is actually a specialist in fur, so is it likely that he would also work with hats? Possibly. I don't know.

On my searches I keep coming across Carl Zeumer (maybe it's a family business?)

I've seen him in relation to creating caps/cap peaks, as well as in ebay listings (http://kleinanzeigen.ebay.de/anzeigen/s-anzeige/damenhut,-zylinder/31968999), but I also found another another reference to him (again using google trans):

http://www.newsclick.de/index.jsp/menuid/2048/artid/6988616

"During the Second World War many buildings fell victim to the bombs. But already in the 1950s, the retail side of the coal market was again strongly represented. Even today, sonorous names such as: jeweler Carl worm, milliner Carl Zeumer, Kepa, bed Hinze, shoe shops Bartels & Voigt, Tack, Marena, Rheingold, photo Klimesch, military Meier-furs, Weipert, Woolworth, Cloppenburg, Rosbach & cracks, travel agency Kahn. Many businesses find themselves today and Hutfiltern dam."

 

[davidraphael]

oooh, this might be nice:

http://cgi.ebay.de/Laenderdienst-Verlag-1966-BRAUNSCHWEIG-Braunschweig-/250813310851

"Monographs and adverts: [...]...Carl Zeumer Pelze und Hüte"

And here we have the connection with Wilhelm because pelze means furs!

Father and son? brothers? Or just coincidence?

 

[mayserwegener]

I am pretty sure Carl Zeumer is a retail store(s). I found this photo in an eBay listing that show PFAU Zylinder Hut and the location as Kassel but I think there might be other locations.

This is another PFAU Zylinder listing for Carl Zeumer and he is mentioned as a retailer.

http://kleinanzeigen.ebay.de/anzeigen/s-anzeige/damenhut,-zylinder/31968999

I found this photo of Wilhelm Zeumer Karlsruhe . My feeling is they were only involved in fur hats.

Zeumer Hut Fabrik, Mannheim, Breite Straße, H 1,6 might be the one to focus on. I registered for the auction site that had this listing and it turns out the Zylinder is by L. R. Zeumer of Mannheim. Did they make soft felt hats? That is the question.

http://www.lot-tissimo.com/de/o/297.6-557/auk/6/zylinder_zeumer_hut-fabrik_mannheim_1_haelfte_20

 

[davidraphael]

I will be going to Mannheim in the next month or so. I can have a look around...

in the meantime, does anyone know anything about Gregor Schöttl of Bad Toelz?

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The only potential reference I can for him is here:
http://www.toelzer-stadtkapelle.de/geschichte/geschichte.html

"Nach diesen Modellen fertigten der Tölzer Schneidermeister Huber sen. und der Tölzer Hutmachermeister Schöttl die Uniformen an"

"Die Ehrenmitglieder der Tölzer Stadtkapelle:
Gregor Schöttl, Ehrenmitglied (Honourary Member), 13.09.1964"

It seems he was in the local band!

 

[mayserwegener]

Is it a Trachtenhut?

 

[davidraphael]

yes, it is

 

[mayserwegener]

If you e-mail the town and they might have some information. It's hard to know if he made this hat (Goldzet) or just sold it out of his shop. Is there a paper label behind the sweatband?

 

[davidraphael]

actually, there is - I can just see it poking out from behind the (sewn) lining behind the ribbon. It's a perforated paper 'sticker'/label, but it just has the size printed on it - 57

 

[mayserwegener]

When you have some time please post some additional photos of it. I will ask my hatter friend in Augsburg if he knows anything about Gregor Schöttl and Goldzet.

 

[davidraphael]

Here they are:
Thanks!

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[mayserwegener]

Very nice Velour finish / color plus overall quality. I would say early 1960s.

 

[Rick Blaine]

A German (Mayser) Hat, from a Danish retailer, (Chapeaux Petitgas in Copenhagen since 1857) purchased out of Bulgaria (Sofia)

On an "other-than-eBay-site" (Etsy).

The hat is better traveled than I am!

Any aficionado want to speculate as to date/era?

 

[mayserwegener]

Very nice Velour! I would say 1970s maybe later. Please post photos when it arrives.

 

[rlk]

Die Hutmacherkunst 1902

http://books.google.com/books?id=RO...ce=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false

 

[davidraphael]

Fot those who are interested:
This morning, while passing through the small Bavarian Alpine village of Pfronten, I noticed an open-air market selling local handmade goods. Naturally, I headed directly to the hat stall.

Here are a couple of pictures.
(Below them, a road sign for a nearby village with a rather unfortunate name! )

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[danofarlington]

That's pretty cool--indigenous hatmaking. A sign that a market is there in the hinterlands. And if it's there in the hinterlands, can the metropolises be far behind?

 

[davidraphael]

This has always been a very strong tradition in southern Germany, Bavaria in particular, and Austria. Unfortunately, many German urbanites look down on this kind of tradition. They see it as quite parochial.

 

[danofarlington]

Then, what's needed over there are visits from some of the American custom hatmakers such as Art Fawcett and Gary White to come to "events" at the relevant festival, fashion shows or craft fairs to show examples of what they make and how it's done. That would rope in the urbanites.

Here in the Washington, D.C. area, people seem to notice good fedoras. My contention has always been that if you stationed at the subway stations or on strategic streetcorners men wearing good fedoras as models, with a sign of the hat store or hat maker nearby, you'd get the needed publicity and ignite the hat-buying desire. It's just that people aren't focused on good hats unless they see them in person, or in a Hollywood movie. Then they're ready to buy. I think most of the hat retailers in the U.S., or at least here in Washington, have an insufficient variety of good men's hats (Borsalino and other makers) to get their wares to catch on. And folks are completely unaware of custom hat makers. They need to be shown in some special setting where people could look, touch, talk, and try on. Then you'd get the ball rolling.

 

[mayserwegener]

Munich alone has a dozen higher end hat stores. Smaller cities in Germany have at least one or two high end hat stores. They all sell production city dress hats by Mayser, Stetson, Wegener, Borsalino, Guerra, Barbisio, ect. Germany per captia has many more hat stores and factories than America. Custom and vintage shouldn't even be the same discussion with modern production hats.

 

[mayserwegener]

I received the following information regarding L. R. Zeumer Hutfabrik from the Mannheim City Archives.

1639: Familie Zeumer ist Urkunden zu folge in Thüringen schon als Hutmacher bekannt

1786: Johann Heinrich Zeumer macht sich in Thüringen als Kürschner und Hutmacher selbstständig

1886: Urenkel Louis Richard Zeumer kommt nach Mannheim und eröffnet in E 1, 12 (Adresse) das Pelzgeschäft Zeumer

1888: Das Pelzgeschäft in E 1 wird geschlossen, eine neue Geschäftsstelle in H 1, 3 (Adresse) wird eröffnet

1895: Die Geschäftsstelle in H 1, 3 wird geschlossen, gleich daneben in H 1, 6 (Adresse) wird das neue Geschäft eröffnet

1927: Zeumer übernimmt auch Hüte mit ins Sortiment

1943: Im Bombenhagel des 2. Weltkrieges werden die Geschäftsräume komplett zerstört à Neuaufbau in H 1,6 (Adresse)

1986: Pelzmoden Zeumer feiert 200 jähriges Bestehen und 100 jähriges Geschäftsjubiläum in Mannheim

1989: Schirme erweitern das Sortiment von Zeumer

03.12.1991: Pelzmoden Zeumer schließt seine Niederlassung in Mannheim

Ob das Sortiment, das Zeumer geführt hat, auch weiche Filzhüte umfasst hat, habe ich in den Unterlagen leider nicht finden können.

Google Translation

1639: Family Zeumer documents is to follow in Thuringia already known as a hatter

1786: Johann Heinrich Zeumer makes in Thuringia independently as furriers and milliners

1886: Richard's great-grandson Louis Zeumer comes to Mannheim and open in E 1, 12 (address), the fur business Zeumer

1888: The fur shop in E 1 is closed, a new office in H 1, 3 (address) will be opened

1895: The office in H 1, 3 is closed, right next to H 1, 6 (address) is the new business opens

1927: Hats Zeumer also takes into line with

1943: The bombing of the 2nd World War destroyed the premises totally rebuilt in H à 1,6 (address)

1986: Fur fashions Zeumer celebrates 200 year anniversary and 100th anniversary of business in Mannheim

1989: expand the range of umbrellas Zeumer

03/12/1991: Fur fashions Zeumer closes its office in Mannheim

Whether the range of products has led Zeumer, and soft felt hats has involved, I'm unfortunately not in the documents can be found.