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German & Austrian Hutmachers

Pellie

One Too Many
Messages
1,637
Location
Enschede, Netherlands
Rockel Velour, labeled 59cm but fits 58cm, possibly 1930s. The Dark Metal Gray Velour is in very good condition. The glossy color coordinated Liner is striking. Rockel Alsfeld didn't get started until the mid 1920 but found a nitch producing affordable quality Fur Felt Hats.

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Open Crown

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Very nice!!
 

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,142
Location
Germany
Long time no new hat posted, because there was always little time:
So this one is already longer in my possession

Wegener "Extra" in a wonderful dark blue (sorry for the bad photos)
size 58; bound brim at 5.5 cm; crown at the center dent at 10.5 cm
The medium weight felt is of great quality and wonderfully soft;
the synthetic lining has a blue contrasting piping;
only the sweat is of really inferior quality, composed of 2 pieces,
poorly glued together & sewn in and also already very brittle.
I think it is a early post war period hat - late 40's or very early 50's
and a look at Steve's homepage would confirm my suspicion,
because this gray Wegener "Extra" seems to be quite similar:
https://germanaustrianhats.invision...egener-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=2181
45993690ol.jpg
45993691zg.jpg
45993693eo.jpg
45993694ve.jpg
45993695kx.jpg
45993698cc.jpg
45993701at.jpg


no Wegener label - just these
45993699uq.jpg
45993700sm.jpg
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Long time no new hat posted, because there was always little time:
So this one is already longer in my possession

Wegener "Extra" in a wonderful dark blue (sorry for the bad photos)
size 58; bound brim at 5.5 cm; crown at the center dent at 10.5 cm
The medium weight felt is of great quality and wonderfully soft;
the synthetic lining has a blue contrasting piping;
only the sweat is of really inferior quality, composed of 2 pieces,
poorly glued together & sewn in and also already very brittle.
I think it is a early post war period hat - late 40's or very early 50's
and a look at Steve's homepage would confirm my suspicion,
because this gray Wegener "Extra" seems to be quite similar:
https://germanaustrianhats.invision...egener-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=2181
45993690ol.jpg
45993691zg.jpg
45993693eo.jpg
45993694ve.jpg
45993695kx.jpg
45993698cc.jpg
45993701at.jpg


no Wegener label - just these
45993699uq.jpg
45993700sm.jpg
Matt, Super find! Really like the Felt color and it does look like it has a soft hand, Are you thinking the sweatband was replaced? That would be my thinking because usually Wegener sweatbands are brand marked and of high quality.
 

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,142
Location
Germany
Matt, Super find! Really like the Felt color and it does look like it has a soft hand, Are you thinking the sweatband was replaced? That would be my thinking because usually Wegener sweatbands are brand marked and of high quality.
Thank you, Steve. I didn't even thought of the sweat being replaced, till you asked: That could be, of course, but then it would have been done professionally, not in 'home work' by hand, because the seam is too complex and uniform for that. I emphasize this, because I ask myself the question: Why would a hatter in the 50s or 60s take such a poor piece of leather for the order of a sweat replacement?
When the hat arrived and I saw the leather, I thought directly and first, it must have been made shortly after the war: leather was very scarce and was limited, so probably even the suppliers for the hat industry had to resort to what was available. That would be my guess, but your idea also has something to it: the missing paper label could also speak for that. Do you have examples of this kind of inferior and 'pieced together' sweats?
 
Messages
18,377
Location
Nederland
Long time no new hat posted, because there was always little time:
So this one is already longer in my possession

Wegener "Extra" in a wonderful dark blue (sorry for the bad photos)
size 58; bound brim at 5.5 cm; crown at the center dent at 10.5 cm
The medium weight felt is of great quality and wonderfully soft;
the synthetic lining has a blue contrasting piping;
only the sweat is of really inferior quality, composed of 2 pieces,
poorly glued together & sewn in and also already very brittle.
I think it is a early post war period hat - late 40's or very early 50's
and a look at Steve's homepage would confirm my suspicion,
because this gray Wegener "Extra" seems to be quite similar:
https://germanaustrianhats.invision...egener-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=2181
45993690ol.jpg
45993691zg.jpg
45993693eo.jpg
45993694ve.jpg
45993695kx.jpg
45993698cc.jpg
45993701at.jpg


no Wegener label - just these
45993699uq.jpg
45993700sm.jpg
Cool find, Matt and a nice coloured homburg. Does it look like the liner ever had a plastic covering? If not, it is likely an earlier hat and the poor sweatband could then indeed be due to scarce leather supply.
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Thank you, Steve. I didn't even thought of the sweat being replaced, till you asked: That could be, of course, but then it would have been done professionally, not in 'home work' by hand, because the seam is too complex and uniform for that. I emphasize this, because I ask myself the question: Why would a hatter in the 50s or 60s take such a poor piece of leather for the order of a sweat replacement?
When the hat arrived and I saw the leather, I thought directly and first, it must have been made shortly after the war: leather was very scarce and was limited, so probably even the suppliers for the hat industry had to resort to what was available. That would be my guess, but your idea also has something to it: the missing paper label could also speak for that. Do you have examples of this kind of inferior and 'pieced together' sweats?
Matt, Is the Liner stitched in? It looks like the threads are missing. My feeling is the sweatband is not original because Wegener was on the higher end. They had high quality sweatbands with Wegener brand mark. They also mostly used cord sweatband bows. This is an earlier one with a taped sweatband seam.

45952956002_8f8fc97b92_b.jpg


https://germanaustrianhats.invision...egener-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=1963

Not a R. & M. Wegener but a JHS "Superior" that has a replaced Sweatband.

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...tfabrik-weilheim/?do=findComment&comment=2119
 
Last edited:

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,142
Location
Germany
Cool find, Matt and a nice coloured homburg. Does it look like the liner ever had a plastic covering? If not, it is likely an earlier hat and the poor sweatband could then indeed be due to scarce leather supply.
Matt, Is the Liner stitched in? It looks like the threads are missing. My feeling is the sweatband is not original because Wegener was on the higher end. They had high quality sweatbands with Wegener brand mark. They also mostly used cord sweatband bows. This is an earlier one with a taped sweatband seam.
Thank you guys for your clues and trying to solve the mystery:
I looked very closely and even tried to stretch the seams of the lining a bit, but there is no residue of any plastic covering and I don't think there ever was.
I also closely inspected the feed overall again and have to commend Steve's good eye: The lining is glued in, but still very much shows the old holes and folds where it was previously sewn in - didn't even notice the threads missing before.
This, together with the missing Wegener paper label and the strange sweat, are strong indications indeed, for a replacement. However, I still think the hat is a fairly early postwar production to mid-50s.
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Thank you guys for your clues and trying to solve the mystery:
I looked very closely and even tried to stretch the seams of the lining a bit, but there is no residue of any plastic covering and I don't think there ever was.
I also closely inspected the feed overall again and have to commend Steve's good eye: The lining is glued in, but still very much shows the old holes and folds where it was previously sewn in - didn't even notice the threads missing before.
This, together with the missing Wegener paper label and the strange sweat, are strong indications indeed, for a replacement. However, I still think the hat is a fairly early postwar production to mid-50s.
Matt, I think that hat might be even earlier. Maybe similar to one you posted of mine which is probably just post WWII.
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland

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