German & Austrian Hutmachers

[steur]

Another one I saw whilst shopping. Too small for me, so didn't bring it along.
Reich (Ottmar Reich) Royal Exquisit homburg in black. Size 55 with the brim around 6cm and crown between 10 and 11cm at the center dent. Easily shapeable felt with a nice hand. The liner is what caught my eye. Never seen that one of them before.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Interesting "crown patch" on this one, @steur!
What do you think of the age? Late 40s/early 50s?

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

View attachment 262332 View attachment 262333

I looked at it with magnifying glass, couldn’t make anything but then again I’m not sure what I’m looking for. Here it is again with a flash and enlarged.

Thanks for the effort and the risk with the sweat.
Unfortunately the stain on "Coul.(eur)" is greasy,
so you can't see what is handwritten underneath.
I think it should be read "Noir", but it would be interesting to see
how the word is written - what the letters look like.
But since I don't think that we'll really solve the puzzle with that either,
you shouldn't make another attempt with consideration for the sweat.

 

[steur]

Interesting "crown patch" on this one, @steur!
What do you think of the age? Late 40s/early 50s?

Thanks, Matt. Seems like fifties to me. Felt like some sort of mesh covering over the actual liner.

 

[mayserwegener]

While I was shopping I found this one as well. I have a ton of hats in this colour scheme, so I don't need another, but...
Kohlndorfer homburg in grey. Size 56 with the brim at 6cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Liner is sewn in and the label is mostly handwritten, but there's a plastic covering of the crown patch. So probably mid to late fifties for this one. The felt is great and has lovely hand, which is part of the reason why I bought it anyway.
Kohlndorfer Velour Hutfabrik Miesbach / Oberbayren was the factory that made it. Steve @mayserwegener's site has some information on the company, but not a whole not is known about them.
Appears to be all original.

Stefan, Great find! I have black Kohlndorfer Homburg with a Hückel sweatband (might have been a repair by Hückel Weilheim). I have come across some Kohlndorfer but none in my size. Yours is fantastic and it's good to see the paper label. I don't believe mine has one.

 

[mayserwegener]

Another one I saw whilst shopping. Too small for me, so didn't bring it along.
Reich (Ottmar Reich) Royal Exquisit homburg in black. Size 55 with the brim around 6cm and crown between 10 and 11cm at the center dent. Easily shapeable felt with a nice hand. The liner is what caught my eye. Never seen that one of them before.

View attachment 262435 View attachment 262432 View attachment 262433 View attachment 262434 View attachment 262436

Stefan, Another great find! It's rare to come across older Ottmar Reich Soft Felt Hats. Also thanks for taking a photo of the paper label.

Here is some info on Ottmar Reich Soft Felt Hat production.

"The Ottmar Reich company had acquired the hat factory Brüder Böhm in 1938 as a branch plant in Vienna and was able to source their felt stumps there. After the aryanized company was "returned duly" after the end of the war, it no longer had its own hat stump production. From 1949, the Bavarian Wool Felt factories K.G. (BWF) in Offingen / Danube became one of the main suppliers. This company had many years of experience in the felt cloth production and began in 1949 with the production of Hat Stumps, possibly already in development cooperation with the company Reich. The hat factory Ottmar Reich had thus set a substantial part on the production of Wool Felt Hats. It was said that the Mayser Fur Felt Men's Hat was the "Mercedes Class", the Reich Wool Felt Hat the (cheaper) "Opel Class". What this does not mean is the "Opel Class" could not make good money at that time.

Ottmar Reich's Fur and Velour Hat Stumps were manufactured by Miesbach Obb company Kohlndorfer. Ottmar Reich then renamed it as an independent Hat Stump manufacturing plant. Hat Stumps were also purchased from foreign manufacturers, in addition to the Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory / S.J Fraenkel AG in Austria, from large manufacturers in Monza (Italy). In addition, new factory buildings were built on the factory site of the hat factory Ottmar Reich. A large extension, added 1961-1963 to the today monument-protected "Manz" industrial building, reached along the sunny road until almost the Glasbühlstraße."

From "Chapeau, Das Westalgäu behütet die Welt, Die Geschichte der Hutprodukrion in Lindenberg und Umgebung, 2015"

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...-reich-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=1937

 

[steur]

Stefan, Great find! I have black Kohlndorfer Homburg with a Hückel sweatband (might have been a repair by Hückel Weilheim). I have come across some Kohlndorfer but none in my size. Yours is fantastic and it's good to see the paper label. I don't believe mine has one.

Stefan, Another great find! It's rare to come across older Ottmar Reich Soft Felt Hats. Also thanks for taking a photo of the paper label.

Here is some info on Ottmar Reich Soft Felt Hat production.

"The Ottmar Reich company had acquired the hat factory Brüder Böhm in 1938 as a branch plant in Vienna and was able to source their felt stumps there. After the aryanized company was "returned duly" after the end of the war, it no longer had its own hat stump production. From 1949, the Bavarian Wool Felt factories K.G. (BWF) in Offingen / Danube became one of the main suppliers. This company had many years of experience in the felt cloth production and began in 1949 with the production of Hat Stumps, possibly already in development cooperation with the company Reich. The hat factory Ottmar Reich had thus set a substantial part on the production of Wool Felt Hats. It was said that the Mayser Fur Felt Men's Hat was the "Mercedes Class", the Reich Wool Felt Hat the (cheaper) "Opel Class". What this does not mean is the "Opel Class" could not make good money at that time.

Ottmar Reich's Fur and Velour Hat Stumps were manufactured by Miesbach Obb company Kohlndorfer. Ottmar Reich then renamed it as an independent Hat Stump manufacturing plant. Hat Stumps were also purchased from foreign manufacturers, in addition to the Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory / S.J Fraenkel AG in Austria, from large manufacturers in Monza (Italy). In addition, new factory buildings were built on the factory site of the hat factory Ottmar Reich. A large extension, added 1961-1963 to the today monument-protected "Manz" industrial building, reached along the sunny road until almost the Glasbühlstraße."

From "Chapeau, Das Westalgäu behütet die Welt, Die Geschichte der Hutprodukrion in Lindenberg und Umgebung, 2015"

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...-reich-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=1937

Thanks, Steve. A lucky find for sure. I wasn't expecting much of my hathunt this time of year, but you never know. The Kohlndorfer and the Ottmar Reich were sitting side by side. Maybe because they have the same origin?
The Reich is a furfelt hat. Nice hand and shaped easily. The pics don't do it justice really as the hat was very dusty (they always are).
I had never seen a Kohlndorfer before, but found the quality impressive. Enough to fall off the wagon for
I'm still working my way through that book.

 

[Garrett]

Not Mine:

 

[mayserwegener]

Not Mine:


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Garrett,

Thanks for posting the J. Heinrich Ita Wien! Great hat company. I have been searching forever for an old Velour.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

It’s not often that I have anything to add to this thread. Forgive my lack of knowledge and poor photography.

This hat caught my eye and after watching it for a couple of weeks I bought it. No size was listed and I was sure it wasn’t going to be my size. I’m not sure if it’s a men’s or women’s hat. It’s very soft and if a floppy nature. The bow is on the left so if that convention holds it’s a man’s hat? Approximately 5 5/8 open crown and 2 3/8 brim with an overwelt. Size measures to a size 57 or 58cm.

The liner is very hard to read. This is what I could make out:

Extra Extra
Wiener Hutindustrie
(Crest)
Extra Quality
O. Saroris
Vis Roma 191 (???)
Portial XX (???)
GENO(??!)

 

[Garrett]

Brent, that hat is delicious! Definitely a men's velour and Steve @mayserwegener will chime in with more info I'm sure. Looks to be top shelf velour, too. Great stuff!

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Brent, that hat is delicious! Definitely a men's velour and Steve @mayserwegener will chime in with more info I'm sure. Looks to be top shelf velour, too. Great stuff!

Thanks, Garrett. It’s the floppiest hat I’ve ever handled. I’m looking forward to what Steve has to say.

 

[steur]

It’s not often that I have anything to add to this thread. Forgive my lack of knowledge and poor photography.

This hat caught my eye and after watching it for a couple of weeks I bought it. No size was listed and I was sure it wasn’t going to be my size. I’m not sure if it’s a men’s or women’s hat. It’s very soft and if a floppy nature. The bow is on the left so if that convention holds it’s a man’s hat? Approximately 5 5/8 open crown and 2 3/8 brim with an overwelt. Size measures to a size 57 or 58cm.

The liner is very hard to read. This is what I could make out:

Extra Extra
Wiener Hutindustrie
(Crest)
Extra Quality
O. Saroris
Vis Roma 191 (???)
Portial XX (???)
GENO(??!)

View attachment 263850 View attachment 263851 View attachment 263852 View attachment 263853 View attachment 263854 View attachment 263855 View attachment 263856 View attachment 263857 View attachment 263858 View attachment 263859

Beautiful hat, Brent and certainly looks to be an older one.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Extra Extra
Wiener Hutindustrie
(Crest)
Extra Quality
O. Saroris
Vis Roma 191 (???)
Portial XX (???)
GENO(??!)

Excellent hat Brent!
This is the complete inscription on the crest
Extra Extra
Wiener Hutindustrie
O. Sartoris or Sartory (Name of the shop)
Via Roma 191/31 (Street address)
Portici XX Settembre (Street Address)
GENOVA (Town)
It was sold in Italy, many years ago.
Some add to the puzzle
Extra Extra is a typical Vanzina inscription as "Wiener Extra Velour" used in some Italian hats as extra plus. Velour from Vienna was a sought in the Italian hats market.The rest of identification is for Steve
I wish it was my size

 

[mayserwegener]

It’s not often that I have anything to add to this thread. Forgive my lack of knowledge and poor photography.

This hat caught my eye and after watching it for a couple of weeks I bought it. No size was listed and I was sure it wasn’t going to be my size. I’m not sure if it’s a men’s or women’s hat. It’s very soft and if a floppy nature. The bow is on the left so if that convention holds it’s a man’s hat? Approximately 5 5/8 open crown and 2 3/8 brim with an overwelt. Size measures to a size 57 or 58cm.

The liner is very hard to read. This is what I could make out:

Extra Extra
Wiener Hutindustrie
(Crest)
Extra Quality
O. Saroris
Vis Roma 191 (???)
Portial XX (???)
GENO(??!)

View attachment 263850 View attachment 263851 View attachment 263852 View attachment 263853 View attachment 263854 View attachment 263855 View attachment 263856 View attachment 263857 View attachment 263858 View attachment 263859

Brent, Super! It was made by S. J. Fraenkel Wien / Ebreichsdorfer Filzhutfabrik so a rare find. Possibly 1920s. Is it a gray?

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/12-s-j-fraenkel-wien/#elControls_1279_menu

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Brent, Super! It was made by S. J. Fraenkel Wien / Ebreichsdorfer Filzhutfabrik so a rare find. Possibly 1920s. Is it a gray?

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/12-s-j-fraenkel-wien/#elControls_1279_menu

Thanks Steve. Yes, it’s gray.
Is it common for the top edge of the ribbon to be sewn to the felt? It looks like something done for shipment but meant to have been removed by the shop or the owner.

 

[mayserwegener]

Brent, Thank you for the natural light photo. Yes band tacking is common. It's to protect during stacking. Mayser still does it today.

 

[Steve1857]

Excellent and interesting find, Brent. Nice catch, even if it's not your size.

It’s not often that I have anything to add to this thread. Forgive my lack of knowledge and poor photography.

This hat caught my eye and after watching it for a couple of weeks I bought it. No size was listed and I was sure it wasn’t going to be my size. I’m not sure if it’s a men’s or women’s hat. It’s very soft and if a floppy nature. The bow is on the left so if that convention holds it’s a man’s hat? Approximately 5 5/8 open crown and 2 3/8 brim with an overwelt. Size measures to a size 57 or 58cm.

The liner is very hard to read. This is what I could make out:

Extra Extra
Wiener Hutindustrie
(Crest)
Extra Quality
O. Saroris
Vis Roma 191 (???)
Portial XX (???)
GENO(??!)

View attachment 263850 View attachment 263851 View attachment 263852 View attachment 263853 View attachment 263854 View attachment 263855 View attachment 263856 View attachment 263857 View attachment 263858 View attachment 263859

 

[mayserwegener]

Heinrich Balke Bremen "Prima Weser Hut", 58 cm, Crown Open 6 inches, Brim 3 inches, possibly late 1920s. This a Wool Soft Felt Hat with Back Bow and luckily the Crown Tip Patch is still present. I really like finding old Wool Soft Felts and I waited a long time for this one to arrive because of shipping issues.

Open Crown

Heinrich Balke Bremen was a hat whole seller but I wasn't able to find anything regarding production facilities. Weser is a river that flows into Bremen and "Weser Hut" is trademarked. I have a very unique Heinrich Balke Bremen Wool Stiff Felt "Prima Weser Hut" with a Mirror inset into the liner logo.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/263-heinrich-balke-bremen/

 

[steur]

Heinrich Balke Bremen "Prima Weser Hut", 58 cm, Crown Open 6 inches, Brim 3 inches, possibly late 1920s. This a Wool Soft Felt Hat with Back Bow and luckily the Crown Tip Patch is still present. I really like finding old Wool Soft Felts and I waited a long time for this one to arrive because of shipping issues.

Open Crown

Heinrich Balke Bremen was a hat whole seller but I wasn't able to find anything regarding production facilities. Weser is a river that flows into Bremen and "Weser Hut" is trademarked. I have a very unique Heinrich Balke Bremen Wool Stiff Felt "Prima Weser Hut" with a Mirror inset into the liner logo.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/263-heinrich-balke-bremen/

Excellent find and a great survivor hat, Steve. And most of the time proof taht not all wool felts are created equal.