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German & Austrian Hutmachers

Bob Roberts

I'll Lock Up
Messages
11,201
Location
milford ct
News from the Fleamarket!
Yesterday this nice but not so spectacular Pork Pie - unknown Brand!
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and today this beauty Wegener " Manhatten "
in Black with burgundy ribbon.
The Paper Label is stamped with 12 Nov 1963 but to difficult to take a Photo with one Hand!
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Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
+2. One for each.
 

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,823
Location
Northern California
A few nights ago I saw this one on the Bay. It really caught my eye, and since my green Czech Peschel unfortunately has an uncomfortable sweatband, I decided to go out on a lemb and buy it. Heck, it was only $9.99 BIN with $13 shipping.

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Ebay listing showed it with this liner, but it arrived without it.

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I emailed the seller, who only lives a couple of hours from me to send it in te mail.
It arrived without a bash, more of a squish. I went with the lines where it once was creased and it went into this shape easily. 4" crown as bashed, 2 3/8" brim, a bit wider than other similar hats I have.
The velour on this thing is amazing. I dare say it is nicer than my W. German Anton Peschel. This and the Made in Germany stamp makes me wonder if it is pre war.
Looking forward to any observations by our resident expert. :)
 

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,823
Location
Northern California
The "Made in Germany" is what had me thinking earlier. I didn't think felt this nice could be post-reunification era. You'd think that the Germans would be more precise.
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
I think it was made in the 1950s. Lembert used "Made in Germany" at this time vs. "Made in West Germany" which became mandatory later. Lembert actually owned a Velour felt factory into the 1950s.
 

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,823
Location
Northern California
So did any other German hatmakers delay changing to West Germany as well?
The tip for getting the old bash ghost lines out of the velour worked well. Didn't think to take a before pic, but the line, which was all the way around the hat about 3/4 of the way up, was so pronounced I thought it was worn in at first. Barely noticeable now.

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The felt on this thing is so nice to the touch it's hard to resist giving the brim that extra couple of strokes when putting it on. I find myself adjusting it unnecessarily way more often than most of my other felts, just to feel it without obviosly petting it. :)
Now I really want to score a pre-war velour just to see how it could possibly be nicer.
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Post WWII: I am not sure if there were other companies that used Made in Germany at the same time period. I think Lembert might have done this because many Americans were buying such hats (stationed military, on vacation). You also see Made in Western Germany for exports like this Fritz Hückel Hutmacher (made at Hückel Weilheim for the American market).

Pre WWII: I don't believe I have come across a domestic market pre WWII German hat with Made in Germany or the German equivalent. They might have used Made in Germany for exports but I don't have any (America wasn't an German export hat market up to WWII like Austria / Czechoslovakia). Sometimes the city / town where the hat company was located is mentioned on the liner logo or tip patch logo (for example the pre WWII German domestic market Mayser "Halloh" posted above has Ulm a. Donau which was the location of the Mayser factory).

Good to see you were able to steam + brush out most of the matted Velour. Luckily it wasn't too far gone. The Velour does look great. You still see great Velour into the 1950s but I think the finest was earlier. You might want to take a look at this comparison: J. Hückel´s Söhne Zephyr Seal Velour (late 1930s) vs. TONAK Formely Hückel Zephyr Seal Velour.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/135-j-hueckel´s-soehne-zephyr-seal-velour-late-1930s-vs-tonak-formely-hueckel-zephyr-seal-velour-late-1940s-early-1950s/?hl=tonak

And then you have this 1930s Hückel Superior "Crystall" Velour.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...hne-hückel-hutfabrik-weilheim/page-2#entry273
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Thanks!

Interesting translated quote from Hair Velour / Real (Echter) Velour / Prime (Prima) Velour , Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933)

"So only a Velour hat which has a certain quality level can be called well wearable, notwithstanding that an Inferior Brushed Velour must be More Expensive than a Clean or Smooth Hair Hat."
 

esteban68

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,107
Location
Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England
Any idea on this hat maker?it came with a Wegener grey Hom
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burg and the supplier mainly has German hats.
The label has worn away but it's otherwise a very clean plush velour fedora/ trilby....I'll post better pictures in a day or two.
 

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,823
Location
Northern California
That is an interesting quote. Can't tell if the author is belittling the hare fur product for not felting as tightly as rabbit does in the smooth finishes or slamming the vanity of those who would wear an expensive status symbol.
 

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