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German & Austrian Hutmachers

rlk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,100
Location
Evanston, IL
Super! I also really like the ribbon width and bow work. If possible could you please post a liner photo?

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u.c.martin

New in Town
Messages
3
Location
United States
Hello all. New to the forum but I recently bought this hat at an Antique Mall and was wondering if anyone could help me find more out about it. Anyone have any idea of the year these were made? I didn't pay much for it so I was wondering what the approximate value would be if I were to sell it.

Thanks everyone!






 
Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
There should be a paper label behind the sweatband (at the rear) so please take a photo and post here. It's a very nice Trachtenhut but it will not draw much attention here because most do not like the style (not me). If it's a larger size you can problem get $50.00 to $60.00 for it. If you want to see an old P. & C. Habig Wien Melone (Bowler) check out the "What Hat Are You Wearing Today?" thread.

Here is what I posted on the other thread.


P. & C. Habig Wien was a famous hat company from Vienna (Wien), Austria. They went out of business in the late 1980s.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/5-p-c-habig-hutfabrik/

It's a long hair finish Trachten / Alpine style hat. If you steam and brush counter clockwise it will take on shinny slick look. My guess is 1970s but it might be a little earlier.

It was sold by Breiter München which are still in business.

http://www.hutbreiter.de/

You may want to post in the German - Austrian thread.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?32103-German-amp-Austrian-Hutmachers/page413
 
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Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
P. & C. Habig Wien - Berlin "Special Qualität" with "Auto Cape", size 58cm, very good condition, 208 grams, probably mid 1930s. The hat has an very unique inner gray felt shell. The felt shell might be removable but I am not going to take a chance trying to remove it. The felt shell adds extra weight but the hat is still very comfortable to wear. I guess "Auto Cape" could be related to the felt shell. There is a patent number (Austrian or German?) that might lead to something. The hat was made for the P. & C. Habig Berlin store at Friedrichstrasse 82 which didn't survive WWII. I think it might be from the 1935 because "35" is last number on the paper label number sequence. Also came with a smaller size old Christys' London Bowler that was sold by a Berlin retail store.

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P. & C. Habig "Habig Hüte" Friedrichstrasse 82. Berlin

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navarre

Vendor
Messages
322
Location
Black Sheep Hat Works
Very interesting Steve. Is it a fairly stiff hat, and if so,
does the shell add extra structure to that stiffness?

I was just thinking about the riding origins of a bowler and wondering if maybe it was meant to be added protection or perhaps for added warmth?
 
Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
Yes it's a standard stiff felt hat. I confirmed that the felt liner isn't removable because the ribbon / bow is stitched through it. I think both of your ideas are valid so I will have to see if I can find any information that will confirm.
 
Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
"Lollar" No Company Mark but see below**, size 58cm, Wool, 6 inch Open Crown, 2 1/2 inch Overwelt Brim, Back Bow, small hole at front crease, probably WWII era. The Wool felt is very soft / pliable and light weight. Unfortunately it has a small hole at the front crease (not that noticeable if creased down) but other than that it's in very good condition. The paper label doesn't have any company mark but does have a model name "Lollar" which is a German town. I paid about $20.00 for this hat including shipping and it wears great too!

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Rear View Open Crown

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** Made by the same company as my EMS (now I am not sure these are company initials) Gloria.

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EMS "Gloria"

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http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/130-ems-hutfabrik/?hl=gloria
 
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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,246
Location
Verona - Italia
Peschel Homburg

Peschel Homburg in black soft fur felt
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Size 59 cm with 5.5 inches open crown, 2 inches bounded brim
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This is a tipical German-Austrian Homburg with crown very similar to the "Elegant HUT" made in central Europe at the start of last century
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The fur felt is very soft-pliable and medium weight. Good finishes
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It was part of a black hats I bought some time ago.
Very confortable to wear, it is a nice addition to my collection of homburgs
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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,246
Location
Verona - Italia
Brabant Homburg

Black felt Brabant Homburg
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Size 58 made in stiff fur felt. Open crown 5 inches and brim 2 inches.
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The shape is very classic, similar to the "Lobbia", medium crown and brim very curly
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It is almost new and well finished. I can't find the paper label under the linen
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It is very elegant and so classy
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Not my size unfortunatly!
 
Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
I was able to find the Austrian Patent (133275) stamped on the sweatband of the P. & C. Habig Wien - Berlin Melone with the felt insert that P. & C. Habig Wien called "Auto Cape". The patent claim is to make a stiff felt hat that is resistant to denting and the felt insert being a part of the invention. This is pretty interesting so probably worth taking a look at.

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Drawing from the French Patent(756192A).

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This is the Austrian Patent (133275) from 1932 and an addendum from 1936.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/199-men%E2%80%99s-stiff-felt-hat-and-method-for-its-production-austrian-patent-nr-133275-1932-adolf-sindermann-hans-frankmann/

This is the French Patent (756192A) from 1933. The translation might be a bit more clear in this one.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/200-a-method-for-the-manufacture-of-melone-bowlers-french-patent-nr-756192a-1933-m-adolf-sindermann/

The inventor Adolf Sindermann has a good number of hat related patents. His company was a major supplier of felt stumpen and capelines.

Österreichisch-ungarische Hutmacher-Zeitung (1912)

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Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
I found this Canandian Patent "Stiffened Wool And Fur Hats And Process For Stiffening Same, Canadian Patent Nr. 558244 A, H. Haakh, H. Seifert, K. Stetzelberg (1958)". This is a method that allows stiffening during the dressing stage followed by drying rather than during the preliminary stage (prior to or after dyeing). I would suggest people making hats take a look at it.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/201-stiffened-wool-and-fur-hats-and-process-for-stiffening-same-canadian-patent-nr-558244-a-h-haakh-h-seifert-k-stetzelberg-1958/#entry1144

One of the inventors Hermannn Haakh has a number of hat related patents (I will be posting more of them) including this US Patent "Process of Treating Felts Made From Animal Hairs, H. Haakh & H. Sabal, Luckenwalde, Germany (1926)" that I posted a while ago. The patent is related to the shortening of the Velour process which was very labor extensive and time consuming.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/142-process-of-treating-felts-made-from-animal-hairs-h-haakh-h-sabal-luckenwalde-germany-1926/?hl=haakh
 
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