German & Austrian Hutmachers

[yttclothing]

Realised i forgot to show the back bow on that wilke so here it is, open crown it measures just under 5" from the side and about 4 3/4" from the front.

Richard I wish they were 61! Although I do have a delivery on Monday only 6kg but the guy told me there was "alot" of suede so fingers crossed for a couple of finds. I need a new hat as I have a vintage show next Saturday (Weather permitting SW England :/).

 

[splintercellsz]

The wilke is beautiful

 

[ManofKent]

Paddy - lovely bow to that Wilke. I'll keep my fingers crossed for Monday's delivery and decent weather next weekend (neither are exactly likely!).

 

[yttclothing]

Paddy - lovely bow to that Wilke. I'll keep my fingers crossed for Monday's delivery and decent weather next weekend (neither are exactly likely!).

Very true, I aim to be able to save up enough so that I can do a bulk order of 100kg that way I figure I would get at least one 61 !

 

[mayserwegener]

Paddy, Thanks for posting the back bow photo! By the way I verified that the single paper label number (in this case 5) is the last number of the cm size (so 55cm in this case). I have an old C. G. Wilke Melone that still has the 59cm paper size tag and the paper label behind the sweatband has a single number 9.

 

[yttclothing]

Well the delivery arrived and a couple of nice finds one is French, so I'm researching it a bit the two relevant to this thread are here:

One is a Huckel the other im unsure of but the quality and the finish are lovely! It was a bit bashed about but it took the steam really well and went over the hat stretcher perfectly and came out lovely (only took about 40 mins) Unfortunately nothing over a 58 arrived. Enough with the words and here are the photos

I also have a hat which has a liner identical to Huckels but the name is Foulard ?

 

[ManofKent]

That green one is particularly nice.

 

[mayserwegener]

Paddy, Nice finds! I am not sure who made the Echt Schwedenleder but the paper label format looks familiar. Interesting that the Hückel Weilheim has "Durit" on the sweatband. I am not sure I have seen that before. What is on the liner label?

 

[yttclothing]

it hath no label only the 57 size sticker, stitched liner next to the Durit there are the numbers 9341/9 then there is a 7 printed and chalked on on the opposite side

 

[mayserwegener]

What does it say under Hückel on the liner? Interesting side note: I haven't come across a Hückel Weilheim with a paper label.

 

[yttclothing]

seit 1799 then the usual jargon

 

[Chepstow]

Nice finds Paddy, the Schwedenleder is very interesting and has some nice details!

 

[mayserwegener]

Vienna Exhibition 1873

676 Collective Exhibition of German Hat Manufacturers, Berlin

1 Oscar Bluth (Berlin): Silk hats. Built in 1858. Fabrication of silk hats in 1871 are 250 pieces of silk plush in the value of 18,000 Thalers and processed 30,000 pieces hats were manufactured in Germany and Russia paragraph 60 Arb.

2 Bortfeld, Carl (Bremen)

3 Carl B Cahn MJ & Sons (Cologne): Fur Felt Hats. Built 1867. Fabrication of felt hats, starched and soft, in all façons and colors. The main sales markets on German 250 280 Arb 2 Dampfm of 40 PfIStärk b MP 67.

4 Dufour, Adolf (Hamburg): Millinery Established 1859. Spec silk hats 16 Arb

5 Dutzschky, Theodor (Magdeburg)

6 Gruda, Franz successor Oldesloe (Holstein) Fur Felt Hats. Established 1816. Hat fabrication 1871 are 25,000 piece of felt hats in the value of 50,000 thalers. Sales to German and non-European markets 60 Arb 22 female Dampfm of 8 PCStärk 2 Dampfk .

7 Graff, Joh Wilh sen (Bonn): Silks and fancy hats. Built in 1861. Silk cashmere Gallet and felt Gaeth hats. 1871 are hats been made thaler, worth 35,000. Paragraph on German markets 23 Arb 6 female.

8 Israel Mathias (Cologne) Built in 1856. Hat and caps fabrication. 1871 are 3,000 doz hats in the value of 30,000 thalers and 18,000 doz caps were manufactured thaler, worth 72,000 sales in half on German markets. Direct staff to 16 people Arb in the factory 135 95 65 45 female female outside.

9 Kramer & Sons (Lahr, Baden)

10 Lehmann, CF (Dresden)

11 Lippmann, J (Dresden)

12 G. W. Martini & Son (Offenbach, Hesse )

13 Maury & Со. (Offenbach, Hesse)

14 F. Mayser & Son (Ulm, Württemberg)

15 Merck Gebr. ( Hesse )

16 Moeckel, Phil (Homburg vd Höhe)

17 Müller, Theodor hatter (Berlin) Div hats

18 Noessel, Louis (Berlin) Built in 1849. Fabrication of felt hats made from sheep's wool. 1871 were 900 Ctr wool in the value of 72,000 thalers and 15,000 doz hats manufactured paragraph mainly on German markets. Direct personnel 15 people Arb in the factory male 70 female 10 male 15 female outside 2 Dampfm 24 P Stärk 7Dam fk.

19 Rehfuss & Со. (Kehl am Rhein, Baden )

20 Roessler, Carl (Edward and Carl Anton Roessler) Hanau am Маin, Prov. Hessen-Nassau. Hat factory. Built in 1814. 94 Arb 32 female 18 outside Dampfm of 6 Pf Stärk b MP 67

21 Schuchard, H. (Darmstadt, Hesse)

22 Welding, Gustav (Offenburg, Baden)

23 Sick, Carl (Bremen)

24 S. Vassel & Со. (Berlin) Built 1841. Fabrication of silk and felt hats mechanical mainly for the German market. Arb 90 male 25 female 10 female in the factory outside Dampfm of 14 Pfistärk ML 51 b MP 67

25 Wessel - Niemax & Isola (Cologne) fabric hats. Built in 1868 factory of fancy hats and caps hat fournituren. 1871 are 3,000 thd hats in Verthe of 60,000 thaler been geferti paragraph for the most part in Englis and 80 arb 36 female.

26 Zehme, JC (Munich)

27 Hasse, Moritz (Berlin) Built in 1856. Fabrication of hat and caps fournituren Spec fancy belt.

28 Freystadt, J. (Berlin) Div hats and caps hat hats and furs factory.

29 Gabriel & Boas (Berlin)

30 Saalfeld Gebr (Berlin)

31 Wolff, H. (Berlin) and caps hat pattern cards umbrellas. Built in 1850. Fabrication vdn and caps lackirten cap screens connected to Pelzfárberei and Confection Spec paint hats lOOArb 20 under 16 years old female in the factory u as much outside.

32 Widmayer & Schüssler (Ronsdorf at Elerfeld)

33 Wilke, C. G. Friedrich and Theodor Wilke (Guben Prov. Brandenburg) Established 1822. Fabrication of fine sheep wool felt hats. 1871 are 1.300 Ctr Full processed and 336,000 pcs hats been NIR fabricirt 390,000 thalers. Paragraph mainly on German Markie in part looking also for export. 350 Arb 176 female and 23 under 16 Ahren in the factory 10 outside Dampfm 2 of 45 PñStärk s MP 67

34 Behr, A. (Berlin) hat and caps form.

677 Pfungst, Julius (Frankfurt а. М.) Pattern fabrication of all kinds of hair and representation of the hat. Factory for all kinds of hair to the hat fabrication.
Helñenstein, Ph. Hatter (Neustadt a H. Bavaria) felt, silks, and shock hats along with raw material.

679 Schlimperts, A.R. Hatter (Hamburg) silk hats

680 Kahn, J. Hatter (Hamburg). Hats raw material and implements.

 

[mayserwegener]

Max Schydlowsky & Co. Berlin, Sommer - und Frühjahrs-Saison 1907

(I couldn't find anything on this company. I wasn't able to win this catalog but I am posting the photos.)

Pages 4 & 5 missing.

Pages 16 & 17 missing.

 

[mayserwegener]

Continued.

 

[mayserwegener]

Continued.

 

[mayserwegener]

Definitely looking to Vienna (Wiener) regarding soft felt hat styles. From what I have read the Austrians makers were held in high regard in Germany. The German makers domestically had a hard time competing against them at the higher end. This company appears to be targeting the mid to lower end.

 

[ManofKent]

Steve - great catalogue. Do I place my order with you?

 

[mayserwegener]

I found (see link below) one Mark was equal to about $4.20 in 1913 and the most expensive soft felt hat in the catalog is 60,00 M per dozen. My guess would be around $3.00 - $4.00 retail per hat.

http://www.measuringworth.com/datasets/exchangeglobal/result.php?year_source=1900&year_result=2000&countryE%5B%5D=Germany

 

[Baron Kurtz]

At 60 Marks per dozen? They'd need to more expensive than that, surely.

I do love these tables when they involve Germany. Marks per $:

1914 4.2300 Mark
1915 4.8470 Mark
1916 5.4950 Mark
1917 5.7730 Mark
1918 7.8620 Mark
1919 32.8520 Mark
1920 57.1100 Mark
1921 83.0220 Mark
1922 430.4780 Mark
1923 50000.0000 Mark
1924 433000000000.0000 Mark
1925 4.2010 Reichsmark