German & Austrian Hutmachers

[hatophile]

Scrumptious chocolate Steve!

Nice work on the Tonak Josh!

 

[Joshbru3]

Josh, That looks really great! I really like the form after the brim and flange change. It looks right in place with the hats you are targeting. By the way the 1930s JHS Foulard and Zyphyr Velours are light weight. Have you had a chance to handle one? I believe Robert has a JHS Sigma Foulard.

Thanks so much, Steve! Except for the early 1900's/19-teens velour upbrims, the 30's velours with short high flanged brims and high crowns are my favorite. There are no better examples than the ones made by the Austrians/Germans. As much as I love the early Stetson velours/long hairs, the Austrians had them beat. I believe Robert brought his JHS Sigma Foulard to fedorafest this past year. Not only was it lightweight and beautiful, but the felt was so incredibly black that every bit of light that hit it was just soaked up. It took a crease instantly with no hesitation and kept it. By far one of the most amazing hats I have ever felt. My formerly owned 1920 Peschel had a lighter weight felt, but anything from the 40's and 50's that I have dealt with as far as Austrian velours, have been relatively thick. Its not a bad thing, I kind of expect velours to be heavier hats for colder weather.

 

[mayserwegener]

Josh, Thanks! The tapped sweat could be an anomaly or just before they switched to stitched sweats.

Perry, Thanks!

Enrique, Thanks for your kind props regarding this thread!

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks so much, Steve! Except for the early 1900's/19-teens velour upbrims, the 30's velours with short high flanged brims and high crowns are my favorite. There are no better examples than the ones made by the Austrians/Germans. As much as I love the early Stetson velours/long hairs, the Austrians had them beat. I believe Robert brought his JHS Sigma Foulard to fedorafest this past year. Not only was it lightweight and beautiful, but the felt was so incredibly black that every bit of light that hit it was just soaked up. It took a crease instantly with no hesitation and kept it. By far one of the most amazing hats I have ever felt. My formerly owned 1920 Peschel had a lighter weight felt, but anything from the 40's and 50's that I have dealt with as far as Austrian velours, have been relatively thick. Its not a bad thing, I kind of expect velours to be heavier hats for colder weather.

That is great that you were able to handle Robert's JHS Sigma Foulard. My only lighter weight Velours are JHS and one is an early 50s Zyphyr Seal Velour made by TONAK. I haven't handled any early Stetson Velours but I remember reading a UK government report from the 1930s where they talked about their inability to match Austrian Velours and specifically JHS. I will have to see if I can locate it again. I also have some really fantastic German Velours. This old Mayser Talpa is right up there with JHS. The color is especially amazing. It reminds me of my metallic JHS Crystall Velour. I assume this is Mayser felt but it might have been sourced but there is no mention.

 

[Chepstow]

Josh, your work is again fantastic! Much emotion in your work and the ressult, a stunning looking hat that looks better as before.

 

[yttclothing]

Here is a Cambridge we just got delivered, I saw on your site steve you believe this is a German brand or an OEM, forgive me if i'm wrong.

 

[mayserwegener]

It's just a made up name. This is very common in the late 1950s and into the 1960s. Does it have a paper label behind the sweatband? If so it probably doesn't have a company mark.

 

[mayserwegener]

From German Wikipedia

http://de.wikipedia....nn_Heinrich_Jta

Johann Heinrich Jta , the surname sometimes Ita written (* 1850;? † January 10, 1915 ) was an Austrian hatter during the Habsburg monarchy.

Johann Heinrich Jta was a major hat manufacturer in Vienna. His company has been very successful in his life and he has received several honors. He was Kommerzialrat and president of the group of the Austrian Hutfabrikanten. Among his customers included, among other things, the imperial court, he later became the imperial court Hutfabrikanten appointed. Jta chamber was also a supplier of Archduke Joseph . The factory and the Comptoir were at the Linzer Straße 140 in the 13th Viennese district Hietzing . [2]
He was married to Julie Jta. Together they had several children: Hermine, Ludwig and Gustav Jta. Hermione married Edmund Thilo. Grandchildren were Henry, John and Paul Jta.
John Henry died on 10 Jta January 1915 due to a stroke. He was according to the Protestant rite at St. Helena Cemetery in Baden near Vienna , buried in the family vault.

Villa JTA at the Linzer Straße 146 in Penzing

Small advertising Jta Fabriks with its unique brand (1906)

Death Notice (1915)

 

[yttclothing]

ha it does have the paper label, your knowledge is most admirable! I was hoping for some decent hats in my latest order but unfortunately was given unbranded moth bitten rubbish, that was the best of the bunch with a couple more but all in smallish head sizes. Hoping next month to get a mega shipment in and find some special hats!

 

[mayserwegener]

Sorry to hear about your latest shipment. You had some nice ones in the last one (see the above info on J. Heinr. JTA). I hope your next haul includes some gems. If possible please post photos of the hats that are 1950s and older.

 

[Chepstow]

Here is a Cambridge we just got delivered, I saw on your site steve you believe this is a German brand or an OEM, forgive me if i'm wrong.

This hat is an Ottmar Reich Trachten hat I've sold a long time ago. The hat and the cord is the same as yours!
My guess, yours is the cheaper, no name brand or hat retailer brand of hat from Ottmar Reich.

 

[Fastuni]

Austrian Habig with somewhat "veloury" finish. I think this is called "Antilope", right?

 

[Rudie]

Antelope hats are called "chamois". They are made from European mountain antelopes known as "Gemse". My own chamois Barbisio has a much smoother finish, so I can't say for sure if this hat is actually a chamois or not.

Very nice hat, btw.

 

[mayserwegener]

Very nice P. & C. Habig Wien! Thanks for posting it. My guess later 1970s - 1980s. Chamois and Antilope are specility finishes. The fur content is usual a rabbit / hare mix. I don't recall P. & C. Habig mentioning finishes on their hats. Someone posted photos of this old J. Hückel´s Söhne Chamois. JHS was famous for their Chamois & Velour finshes. Unfortunatly the photos are not the best. This is the only JHS Chamois I have ever seen.

Chevreau is a similar finish to Chamois and Antilope.

 

[mayserwegener]

Brüder Böhm Wien Flexible Melone

Size 58cm, weighs 180 grams, probably 1920s - 1930s. I believe there could be some wool content in this Melone. It also has a cord which is not typical. It appears Hut-Fabriks-Niederlage, Jean Preis is a branch office or warehouse in Wiener Neustadt.

Cord Close-up Photos

 

[splintercellsz]

What a nice Melone!

 

[mayserwegener]

Justin, Thanks! I wish I knew more about how it came together.

 

[Chepstow]

Steve, wow, fantastic find. Very nice shape and condition. Maybe that helps, the word " Niederlage " is old german vocabulary and means branch business!
Hut-Fabriks-Niederlage, "Jean Preis" maybe the manager of that branch business!

 

[mayserwegener]

Manfred, Thanks! Yes you are correct! I found this example online.

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

Great looking Melone. I wonder why wind trolleys weren't seen on Bowlers? It seems like a natural feature at least on the lightweight models that were being produced.