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German & Austrian Hutmachers

Messages
17,523
Location
Maryland
Manfred, You are correct. I found a early 1980s newspaper behind the sweatband of the one I suspect to be a JHS. It's a shame they messed with the Borsalino sweatband because that is a very unique hat.
 
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Messages
17,523
Location
Maryland
After a closer look I confirmed the first one is a modified J. Hückel´s Söhne.

4710378246_d584e38082_b.jpg


You can see the 1799 above 'Derby'. Also the label design is the same although purposely broke apart.

8195869485_a5e5dbc47b_b.jpg
 
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Messages
17,523
Location
Maryland
Manfred, The Borsalino has a paper label but I am not sure I can get a photo of it without further damaging the sweatband. It's possible the felt was stiffened at a later time but it's a very heavy weight felt. Same with the modified JHS "? Derby" felt.
 
Messages
17,523
Location
Maryland
I guess they might have wanted to raise the crown or there was a problem they were trying to cover up. I believe the ribbon is from the same time period as the the felt strip modification. I am postive the original JHS hat including the sweatband are from at least the 1930s.
 
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Messages
17,523
Location
Maryland
Homburg Hut, Die Neue Form, Der Wiener Hutmacher + Dermotta Wien Homburg

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This cardboard stand is probably from the late 1940s early 1950s. It mentions the Homburg hat as a new style which is interesting. More like marketing an old style under an Anglo-American name.
 
Messages
17,523
Location
Maryland
Could be but side pinches were not unsual for this style hat. My guess is the term Homburg came in to use in Germany and Austria around this time period. I have never come across the term Homburg Hut in any of the pre WWII German or Austrian hat industry publications.
 

Chepstow

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,406
Location
Germany/ Remscheid
That is from wikipedia! google Translation!

The Homburg was originally manufactured in Bad Homburg hat factory, founded in 1806 by Ph. Moeckel. Phillip Möckel industrialized operation in 1856 and purchased a steam engine. The big breakthrough for the Homburg came with the visit of the British Crown Prince (later King Edward VII) on 29 August 1882 in Bad Homburg. Edward gave him as a spa guest here in his typical elegant gray when Hatter Moeckel in order. "Invented" he has not. Edward saw the hat for the first time with his nephew, Kaiser Wilhelm II, Homburg. Kaiser Wilhelm II wore the hat in a green variant as an accessory hunting uniform. The new design spread quickly and soon supplanted the cylinder and the melon.

In Britain, a similar shape of the hat popular in the 1930s to 1950s. The so-called "Anthony Eden" (after the politician who carried him often and style of the thirties was a model), however, had in contrast to the classical one unbordierten Homburg, straight cutting edge. Anthony Eden is also known as the "demi-Homburg" means [1], and was worn on formal occasions to Stresemann and black suit.
 
Messages
17,523
Location
Maryland
Yes but as far as I know it wasn't called a Homburg Hut in Germany or Austria (1882 - 1945). The Homburg Hat name was used in America and I also believe in England because of where the hat style came from (ie. Homburg, Germany). The only case where I found Homburg Hats mentioned in a German hat publication of the early 20th Century was a Moeckel (of Homburg) advertsiment ("Real Homburg-Hats" not "Echter Homburg-Huete) that targeted the export market.

7616247768_f250b18a42_b.jpg
 
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