Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

[Johnny J]

I think flat-caps are pretty snazzy things. Are they difficult to make? I've been thinking of making one for myself, once I find some suitable material. I'm gradually getting the hang of using my gran's Singer and I'd like to start doing some simple projects on it.

Simple? No. Especially getting the right size. I took one apart and made a pattern from it.

 

[Johnny J]

More pics in Cap Faction.

 

[Dinerman]

Looks great!

 

[willyk57]

Johnny J

The cap looks really good. It sits well and the brim looks a little longer than a off the rack model. I love the look.

What did you use for the brim stiffener and the cap liner?

Best,
Willyk57

 

[Johnny J]

What did you use for the brim stiffener and the cap liner?

For the brim I found some thin plastic sheet at a hobby store, but I did not get to put in a cap liner on this one. I had a little trouble making it, so I just left it out this time.

 

[Nick D]

I had a little trouble making it, so I just left it out this time.

What is the wrong side/inside of the fabric? Is it double-sided fabric or is that interfacing?

 

[Johnny J]

What is the wrong side/inside of the fabric? Is it double-sided fabric or is that interfacing?

No interfacing. Thats what the back side of check fabric looks like.

 

[Pinesiw]

This is the result of 5 attempts at the newsboy cap. Like I said in cap faction no liner, I put one in from a different cap, and I think it looks great from the outside but the inside looks hideous.

 

[Shangas]

That's very smart, Pinesiw! Very sharp.

I made this:

Some of you may remember I made another one previously, a cosey for my vintage copper bed-warmer. The other one was neat, but it was very rough, handmade, and the fabric was so thin that if you held the bottle for any longer than about 10 seconds, you'd burn your hands.

I made this one out of leftover fabric. I used my grandmother's Singer to do all the stitching. It's thicker and is much better-suited to what I had in mind. I used the buttonhole-attachment on the machine to make the holes through which I passed the cord for tying up the top of the bag.

I know it's not very neat, but it's designed to be practical, not pretty! Here's the hot-water bottle inside:

 

[Shangas]

Behold my first serious attempt to make for myself, something which I can actually *wear*. This is made out of some fabric which I bought at the local thrift-shop...

If you haven't figured out what it is yet, it's supposed to be a dressing-gown. It's winter here in Melbourne, and sometimes, regular PJs just don't cut it. Especially after the sun goes down and it's freezing cold. I've always thought dressing-gowns were kinda neat. Nobody wears them anymore and they're a handy way to keep warm around the house. Also, I could never find one in *my* size. So I decided to make one myself. They're simple things, really, and I found a photo-tutorial online to give me a hand.

Here's a closeup of the collar:

And the trim-fabric:

I used that to make the belt, the belt-loops, and a sort of one-inch border around the bottom hem, the front, collar and cuffs. It's mostly for decoration, to hide all the raw edges.

I made it ankle length (it's about 3 inches off the ground at the bottom) because I wanted something that covered me up as much as possible. The front could afford to be maybe a couple of inches bigger, but I'm not dissatisfied with the results. It's comfortable and I can move around in it easily. Put it on, take it off, and most importantly, walk with it without falling on my ass!

If you're wondering how big the finished product is, as a height-reference, I'm 5'6".

From the first measurement and cut, to finally doing the photo, took about three days. Attaching the sleeves to the top were a bit tricky and I uttered words that you'd only hear from a constipated sailor on the toilet, but I got there in the end.

These photos are here because of members who desired me to share the finished product with them. Deacon, and VictorBrunswick.

 

[Nick D]

I finally finished the blue suit I started three (!) years ago. The trousers and waistcoat I made back then, the jacket was made over the last couple months. I had put the fabric away and just never got back to it. The trousers are the Eva Dress '30s pattern, the waistcoat is a copy from an early '40s suit, and the jacket is from a Weldon's pattern from c. 1950. The jacket is a 'semi-hacking' jacket but I made some alterations to it so it now has a couple hacking features but isn't a hacking jacket. Here's the pattern envelope:

I shortened the body and sleeves, omitted the ticket pocket, didn't put vents in the back, put in two interior pockets, and made the back lining a half lining. It's still quite fitted at the waist with slanting side pockets. I think the breast pocket is a bit high. The underarm dart stops well short of the sleeve seam, which gives some ease of movement without back pleats:

Interior:

Detail of interior pocket and linings:

Here's the suit. It's my third mens jacket and I'm moderately pleased with it. I'm not near the level of herringbonekid or Qirrel yet, but I think I'm getting better. I did have trouble with the sleeve ease. Part of that is there's more blend than wool in the fabric and I had a hard time shrinking, and partly my incorrect setting on my part, though the hang is good. There's some fullness in the front above the centre button that needs to be addressed, but I can fix that on this jacket and avoid it on the next. I need to draft a new collar, and either move back the roll line or the neck point to increase the opening slightly, as it is it's a bit too narrow. I think this will work well for a peak lapel alteration, too.

The armholes are really high, about as high as they can be, so between that and the underarm ease there's great freedom of movement.

Next suit for me is heavy-weight cream Irish linen, but I've got a few other projects first in the queue.

 

[herringbonekid]

looks really well made Nick ! i think the chest pocket height looks fine.
i had the fullness around the top button problem before. drove me mad trying to work out how to get rid of it as i didn't want to take anything off the lapel edge. i basically took the excess out of the darts and front side seams.
the only thing i notice on your jacket is a bit of pinching on the left sleeve (in the last photo) just up from the chest pocket. other than that... great job !

 

[Vampyre Master]

I finally finished the blue suit I started three (!) years ago. The trousers and waistcoat I made back then, the jacket was made over the last couple months. I had put the fabric away and just never got back to it. The trousers are the Eva Dress '30s pattern, the waistcoat is a copy from an early '40s suit, and the jacket is from a Weldon's pattern from c. 1950. The jacket is a 'semi-hacking' jacket but I made some alterations to it so it now has a couple hacking features but isn't a hacking jacket. Here's the pattern envelope:

I shortened the body and sleeves, omitted the ticket pocket, didn't put vents in the back, put in two interior pockets, and made the back lining a half lining. It's still quite fitted at the waist with slanting side pockets. I think the breast pocket is a bit high. The underarm dart stops well short of the sleeve seam, which gives some ease of movement without back pleats:

Interior:

Detail of interior pocket and linings:

Here's the suit. It's my third mens jacket and I'm moderately pleased with it. I'm not near the level of herringbonekid or Qirrel yet, but I think I'm getting better. I did have trouble with the sleeve ease. Part of that is there's more blend than wool in the fabric and I had a hard time shrinking, and partly my incorrect setting on my part, though the hang is good. There's some fullness in the front above the centre button that needs to be addressed, but I can fix that on this jacket and avoid it on the next. I need to draft a new collar, and either move back the roll line or the neck point to increase the opening slightly, as it is it's a bit too narrow. I think this will work well for a peak lapel alteration, too.

The armholes are really high, about as high as they can be, so between that and the underarm ease there's great freedom of movement.

Next suit for me is heavy-weight cream Irish linen, but I've got a few other projects first in the queue.

absolutely amazing sir and I have become obsessed with pin collars !!!
VM

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

:eusa_clap Great work nick. Perfect shape.

 

[DeaconKC]

Behold my first serious attempt to make for myself, something which I can actually *wear*. This is made out of some fabric which I bought at the local thrift-shop...

If you haven't figured out what it is yet, it's supposed to be a dressing-gown. It's winter here in Melbourne, and sometimes, regular PJs just don't cut it. Especially after the sun goes down and it's freezing cold. I've always thought dressing-gowns were kinda neat. Nobody wears them anymore and they're a handy way to keep warm around the house. Also, I could never find one in *my* size. So I decided to make one myself. They're simple things, really, and I found a photo-tutorial online to give me a hand.

Here's a closeup of the collar:

And the trim-fabric:

I used that to make the belt, the belt-loops, and a sort of one-inch border around the bottom hem, the front, collar and cuffs. It's mostly for decoration, to hide all the raw edges.

I made it ankle length (it's about 3 inches off the ground at the bottom) because I wanted something that covered me up as much as possible. The front could afford to be maybe a couple of inches bigger, but I'm not dissatisfied with the results. It's comfortable and I can move around in it easily. Put it on, take it off, and most importantly, walk with it without falling on my ass!

If you're wondering how big the finished product is, as a height-reference, I'm 5'6".

From the first measurement and cut, to finally doing the photo, took about three days. Attaching the sleeves to the top were a bit tricky and I uttered words that you'd only hear from a constipated sailor on the toilet, but I got there in the end.

These photos are here because of members who desired me to share the finished product with them. Deacon, and VictorBrunswick.

Wow! That is fantastic, nice choice on going with the same material for the trim as the collar. It looks great.

Also, Nick the suit is splendid!

 

[Shangas]

Thanks, Deacon!

You may notice that I swapped the sides around. First photo is right over left, last photo is left over right.

I finally fixed it so that it'll always be right over left. I sewed in a two-piece steel hook-clasp and catch on opposing sides so that the front doesn't flop open accidentally. Here's another photo:

Since there's so many wonderful articles of clothing being made here (my gown not being nearly nice enough t be included in this club of bespoke tailoring), I thought it might be interesting to see each others' "tools of the trade", as it were. Here are mine:

Buttonholer (red box)
Zigzagger (white box)
Attachments (green box)
Bobbins (16 in total)
Needles (three packets, original Singers)
Motor-grease (full)
Machine-oil can (empty. Actual oil stored elsewhere. Can for display purposes only).
Shears with black, Japanned handles. 8 inches long. Made by Wiss & Sons, Newark, New Jersey.*
'DEAN', English-made measuring-tape. 60 inches.**

Singer 99k electric knee-lever sewing-machine from 1950***, restored to running condition by...me.

So, what are the tools that you use to make your creations with?

*,**,***

Shears, measuring-tape and sewing machine were all originally the property of my late grandmother. She was a dressmaker by profession for 30-odd years. She died in November, 2011 at the age of 97. I inherited her tailoring equipment and sewing-machine.

 

[Johnny J]

Nick, wonderful work! Looks absolutely stunning! Congratulations!

 

[Bruce Wayne]

Good evening gentlemen. Do any of you happen to know how to make a pair of trousers? I am specifically looking for information on how to join the two pant legs together.

Thanx!!!
Charlie

 

[Bugsy]

I finally finished the blue suit I started three (!) years ago. The trousers and waistcoat I made back then, the jacket was made over the last couple months. I had put the fabric away and just never got back to it. The trousers are the Eva Dress '30s pattern, the waistcoat is a copy from an early '40s suit, and the jacket is from a Weldon's pattern from c. 1950. The jacket is a 'semi-hacking' jacket but I made some alterations to it so it now has a couple hacking features but isn't a hacking jacket. Here's the pattern envelope:

I shortened the body and sleeves, omitted the ticket pocket, didn't put vents in the back, put in two interior pockets, and made the back lining a half lining. It's still quite fitted at the waist with slanting side pockets. I think the breast pocket is a bit high. The underarm dart stops well short of the sleeve seam, which gives some ease of movement without back pleats:

Interior:

Detail of interior pocket and linings:

Here's the suit. It's my third mens jacket and I'm moderately pleased with it. I'm not near the level of herringbonekid or Qirrel yet, but I think I'm getting better. I did have trouble with the sleeve ease. Part of that is there's more blend than wool in the fabric and I had a hard time shrinking, and partly my incorrect setting on my part, though the hang is good. There's some fullness in the front above the centre button that needs to be addressed, but I can fix that on this jacket and avoid it on the next. I need to draft a new collar, and either move back the roll line or the neck point to increase the opening slightly, as it is it's a bit too narrow. I think this will work well for a peak lapel alteration, too.

The armholes are really high, about as high as they can be, so between that and the underarm ease there's great freedom of movement.

Next suit for me is heavy-weight cream Irish linen, but I've got a few other projects first in the queue.

Absolutely splendid, Nick!!

 

[Nick D]

Many thanks, gents! herringbonekid, I will see if that will work when I fit the next one. It may have been a basting problem here, I'm not sure. It didn't show up until after I made the buttonholes and removed the basting. Sew and learn, the next'll be better.