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GASP! HOLY GRAIL of 40s Suits: Dated SB Peaked Lapel Action Belt Back Pinstripe Suit!

reetpleat

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2,681
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Seattle
Okay, no more size comments. I shouldn't have even brought it up.

Wow, what a suit. I own a double breasted black pinstriped jacket with a belted back, but alas, no pants. I agree, pinstipes in a belted back are very rare. Typically custom, as they pair a conservative business fabric with a sporty cut.

I think the jacket is a style that was typically cut short. Surely there are threads discussing this in the archives. i sure would love to see it on someone it fits well.
 

reetpleat

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Seattle
It is interesting that they chose not to line up the stripes on the belt in the back. On one hand, you would think a good tailor would do so, and it would be easy to do. But on the other hand, it would not show up so much, so they may well have decided not to. Interesting choice. Not sure what I would have asked for if I were having it done.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
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13,719
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USA
reetpleat said:
It is interesting that they chose not to line up the stripes on the belt in the back. On one hand, you would think a good tailor would do so, and it would be easy to do. But on the other hand, it would not show up so much, so they may well have decided not to.
I'm thinkin' the latter.
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
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18,192
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Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
reetpleat said:
It is interesting that they chose not to line up the stripes on the belt in the back. On one hand, you would think a good tailor would do so, and it would be easy to do. But on the other hand, it would not show up so much, so they may well have decided not to.

I used to have a belted back suit with a windowpane pattern. As I recall, the windowpane on the belt did not match up that on the back itself.
 

Guttersnipe

One Too Many
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1,942
Location
San Francisco, CA
reetpleat said:
I think the jacket is a style that was typically cut short. Surely there are threads discussing this in the archives. i sure would love to see it on someone it fits well.

I think so to. I have a very similar belt-back that's dated March '42 and it has that same short coat length. I think was to reflect the "sporty" look implied by a belted-back.
 

reetpleat

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2,681
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Seattle
That and the single breasted peak lapels, more thirties and typically cut short. In fact, if it were cut longer, it might throw the lapels out of balance.

on the other hand, early zoot suits were often single breasted peak lapels, so that theory doesn't completely hold water.
 
Lovely. Truly a work of beauty.

I'm particularly impressed by the central pleat. Usually this would be associated with a shoulder panel. But to have it on a standard 2-panel suit rear is fantastic.

Did anyone see that jacket recently for sale by investigator1947? It had a belt in back, much like a waistcoat treatment. Absolutely amazing. but sold for something ridiculous like $80 … probably deserves its own thread. i saved the images.

70d7_1.JPG
88e2_1.JPG


Whoops, even saved the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=150322884509

bk
 

Sefton

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2,132
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Somewhere among the owls in Maryland
Baron Kurtz said:
Lovely. Truly a work of beauty.

I'm particularly impressed by the central pleat. Usually this would be associated with a shoulder panel. But to have it on a standard 2-panel suit rear is fantastic.

Did anyone see that jacket recently for sale by investigator1947? It had a belt in back, much like a waistcoat treatment. Absolutely amazing. but sold for something ridiculous like $80 … probably deserves its own thread. i saved the images.

70d7_1.JPG
88e2_1.JPG


Whoops, even saved the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=150322884509

bk

I was watching that one thinking that it would go for some astronomical amount. Someone got a steal. Not my size or I just might be here bragging about it right now. Really beautiful piece.
 

pdxvintagette

A-List Customer
Messages
362
Location
Portland, OR
Okay, okay it's up!

It is now up on ebay HERE.

I've had FL up in the background, but I've actually been working! Had other listings to post, and wanted to prep and photograph some more menswear - seems like I should have some less expensive pieces and other size items up to mollify those who can't spring for or fit this one! I'll get the other goodies up tomorrow.
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
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18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
Now I understand!

The reason why the jacket belt's pinstripes don't match with the back's stripes is because they can't. The back is gathered into pleats at the belt. The belt itself isn't gathered and pleated, of course, so its stripes can't be where the pleated back's stripes are.

.
 

pdxvintagette

A-List Customer
Messages
362
Location
Portland, OR
Tomasso said:
The lapels appear to have swelled edges.

Actually the machine stitch that trims the lapels giving them that look runs the entire front of the jacket - it trims the collar, lapels, and central hems, curving down to the bottom for about 4". You'll note how deep and separated the notch is where the collar and lapel meet, and how defined the stitch makes it.
 

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