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From Brooks Bros.: "Dress Like Draper!"

habberdasher

A-List Customer
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369
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Mt Pleasant, SC
Matt Deckard said:
I don't see the tension. It's just made the same as any 2 button with the third top button being an affectation. That suit has perfect balance and fit. But it has one button with which I don't agree.
You're right-I guess I was imagining the tension. I don't like how the top buttonhole flips over to see the back, it looks trashy.
 

MrBern

I'll Lock Up
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DeleteStreet, REDACTCity, LockedState
I wish they hadnt gone with such a typical notch lapel. Some of the suits on the show have had more uniquely `60s flair:
2331167641_1ed1e72c41.jpg
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
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13,719
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USA
Matt Deckard said:
northwest2.gif



3 rolled to the middle, a Brooks Standard..
A Savile Row standard as well; from Anderson & Sheppard:



mr_sheppard_jacket_4.jpg




habberdasher said:
I don't like how the top buttonhole flips over to see the back, it looks trashy.
One man's trash is another man's treasure. ;)
 

AlanC

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,175
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Heart of America
^Very often the top buttonhole is sewn so that the 'reverse' is finished, thus it's meant to be shown.

I'll stand as a voice of dissent and say that I love the 3/2 roll.
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
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18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
habberdasher said:
I don't like how the top buttonhole flips over to see the back, it looks trashy.

Until the 1950s or so, the top buttonhole was almost always faced on both sides...so that if/when the wearer chose not to button the top buttonhole, it wouldn't look "trashy" if the lapel rolled back.


Today, only very high-end OTR (or MTM/bespoke) jackets have their top buttonhole faced on both sides.


.
 

Richard Warren

Practically Family
Messages
682
Location
Bay City
My recollection is that the traditional Brooks Brothers three button suits were cut so that the top button could be buttoned without any distortion. It just was not the done thing. A good three button suit would not be flat in the lapel but would roll. No more of an affectation than the bottom button.
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
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A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
I'm not going by the button stitching, I'm going by the interfacing in the jacket. Even though they can button to the top, the interfacing rolls to the middle unlike a traditional 3 button. So they were are are made specially to button and look natural to the middle button just like a regular 2 button model.
 

filfoster

One Too Many
MadMen shop at Brooks?

Guttersnipe said:
I think it captures the spirit of the early 60's continental look perfectly, but $998 is kinda a hefty price tag.
I agree and I buy my daily work suits at Brooks (OK, I do wait for the sales!)-still pretty pricey. I just got two suits made by Baron Boutique in this '60's style for a small fraction of the Brooks price and with nice details like vented cuffs with working button holes, etc.. Save some swag for your Don Draper hat and shoes. I haven't seen any discussion of Baron on here but I suppose that's becasue they don't really make vintage style clothes. But they managed this 60's style for me! I'd stick with Indy Magnoli on earlier styles because he has the patterns and the track record.
 

habberdasher

A-List Customer
Messages
369
Location
Mt Pleasant, SC
Marc Chevalier said:
Until the 1950s or so, the top buttonhole was almost always faced on both sides...so that if/when the wearer chose not to button the top buttonhole, it wouldn't look "trashy" if the lapel rolled back.


Today, only very high-end OTR (or MTM/bespoke) jackets have their top buttonhole faced on both sides.


.
Interesting, I didn't know buttonholes did and do (rarely) face both sides.
 

habberdasher

A-List Customer
Messages
369
Location
Mt Pleasant, SC
Matt Deckard said:
I'm not going by the button stitching, I'm going by the interfacing in the jacket. Even though they can button to the top, the interfacing rolls to the middle unlike a traditional 3 button. So they were are are made specially to button and look natural to the middle button just like a regular 2 button model.
I'm not very experienced in terminology, so what do you mean by the "interfacing" and how it buttons to look natural to the middle button like a 2B?
 

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