French Hats and makers.

[yttclothing]

This may be a 30's Flechet

its either a lot number or date stamp , 29233

 

[ManofKent]

Paddy - I'd have estimated 30's/40's based on tipper. Definitely worth a restoration.

 

[ManofKent]

From the same source as the COL (60's?) Flechet velour:

 

[Burma Schave]

This one is from the '20s. It might be a Mossant export.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OVIATT-VINT...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

[splintercellsz]

Very nice!

 

[ManofKent]

I took a trip to the Post Office to collect my CRM (not there, still at the depot ) but there was another package waiting for me - two new old stock Flechet velours from a closed down hat shop in Strasbourg. Thank you for the tip off Danielle.

Both Flechet Deluxe

Anthracite (2" bound brim) - 60's or early 70's?:





and Black (2" over-welt brim) 60's/70's again I guess:

 

[Chepstow]

Super Flechet's, I know you look great in this stingys Richard!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[ManofKent]

Super Flechet's, I know you look great in this stingys Richard!

Thanks Manfred - ridiculously low price for new old stock, and 2" brims are easier to wear than anything smaller.

 

[mayserwegener]

Richard, Super pair of Flechets!

 

[SAINT-JACQUES]

Hello Steven,
I am new in the Fedora Lounge, and discovered with pleasure this forum.
You perhaps remember that we discussed together a few years ago about Fléchet.
And one of the customer of your shop showed our Chazelles extra-light to your people 2 years ago.
Anyway, sorry to tell you that Crambes does not use Fléchet, Saint-Jacques owned the brand since 1996 after working for the Fléchet family since 1983, and employed Robert Fléchet as an agent.
We does not produce anymore on our own (production in France...), but at Tonak for the rabbit felt, a bit in China for wool felt (like Stetson), and all of our fabric hats and caps are made in Italy on commission for us with our selection of european fabrics (french, english and italian fabrics)
At your disposal for more informations
with best regards
ERIC
SAINT-JACQUES (France)

 

[mactire]

For those interested, there are some French makers still operating

Pauline Brosset http://www.pauline-brosset.com/

Hermes-Motsch, no website, now part of the Hermes group but remains at the old address of 42 Avenue Georges V, 75008 Paris

Anthony Peto http://www.anthonypeto.com/ great video of him sewing a Milan straw here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IS70kNr0bsQ&list=PLP8YKk7ZDCcx0zzd_D1L__Ly3MX51QwIg

Novalande http://www.chapeaux-honfleur.fr/

 

[yttclothing]

as part of a joblot of hats I got from France, I found this - Unsure what the style is called and date wise i'm unsure anyone know anything about Chapeaux Felix?

 

[mayserwegener]

It doesn't ring a bell. Maybe Robert will pop in since he has a good number of French hats. It might have a Spanish connection with the liner colors and style. Is there a vent at the front of the sweatband or just damage?

 

[yttclothing]

It's had crinkled paper put around the sweatband to shrink the size I believe the label inside makes it 7 1/8 (unsure if that would be US or UK) but its a UK 6 7/8 by my measurements, it reminds me of some Spanish hats i've had before, which were called Sombreros but not the classic design we all think of they looked very similar just a very different ribbon

 

[yttclothing]

Sombrero cordobés, that is what I believe it to be well the closest thing I can think of !

 

[mayserwegener]

It looks like the reed sweatband is attached like a non reed sweatband. Is it attached at the front (this is why I asking about a vent)? Maybe it has a Basque connection? It's definitely interesting!

I found mention here of Chapeaux Felix (page 1293).

http://books.google.com/books?id=0lo7AQAAMAAJ&pg=PA1293&lpg=PA1293&dq=Chapeaux+Felix+5+Boulevard+de+Strasbourg+Paris&source=bl&ots=2G2FrxWfj9&sig=8_tgK8BEFApn8BhYEBO8Oo6Srco&hl=en&sa=X&ei=TQFAVLffOOqIsQSowIDADQ&ved=0CCEQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=5%20Boulevard%20de%20Strasbourg%20Paris&f=false

My feeling is that it is on the old side (pre 1950s).

 

[Lean'n'mean]

I see it's up for bids http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Vintage-Fren...-/371166089518?pt=UK_Hats&hash=item566b39112e

It's probably a woman's (given the size & large bow) riding hat worn during ' Dressage' competitions & demonstrations based on the Iberique disciplines (La doma vaquera). These hats often come through time in excellent condition as they were only worn for special occasions & well looked after. They are usually made from wool felt.


I've had a good google around here on the French side but haven't found anything refering to Félix hats or should I say chapeau Félix Félix could have been a hat store (& not a 'chapelier'as such ) which had hats stamped with the shops name.
On the size label you can see a TD logo which may be that of the actual manufacturer.

Just as a matter of interest, there is currently a cosmetic & perfume store (pretty tatty by the looks of it on street view) at the address 5, bd de Strasbourg.

 

[yttclothing]

When I saw it I thought women's too the only thing was the bow, normally when i've hat women's hats its been on the opposite side, this one looks like fur felt rather than wool but i'm unsure, If it's to do with dressage I should sell it to my partner as that's her job ! It would fit her too. The TD label also says 7 1/8 which is a shame because that size is a lot more saleable.

 

[Lean'n'mean]

If it's to do with dressage I should sell it to my partner as that's her job ! It would fit her too.

Sell ??? o'come on Mr.skinflint, how about offering it to her.....Christmas isn't far away
Reckon it'll be a difficult one to sell on the bay anyway, it will be on your hands for months, just think of those eBay fees you'll be saving..........is that the sound of wrapping paper I can hear ? :eusa_clap

Strange thing is that on the sweatband it is embossed 'chapeau' Félix which is singular for hat & not the usual 'chapeaux' (plural)

 

[mayserwegener]

Women's dress hats usually don't have leather sweatbands and the bow would be on the other side. The size of the bow is not always an indicator of gender. You will see large size bows on Boaters. There are women's hats with this shape (if you search here you will find them). Dressage or some other similar connection might be the case. It could have been modified along the way. The the "T.D." initials on the paper label would be the maker. There are some French makers listed here but probably not much help. I will look and see if I have anything.

Update.

Assuming it's a French maker (not clear from the paper label). I checked for "T.D." and "D.T." in "Kelly's Directory Of Merchants, Manufacturers And Shippers, 1964" but couldn't find anything (see next post). I got pre WWII listings for German, Austria, Czechoslovakia and Italy but not for France. Next time I visit the Library of Congress I will do so.

Dressage Ibérique

The men and women appear to wear similar hats (looks like they compete against each other). The hats look similar to this one so L&M is probably right about it being a ?Ladies? (if there is such a thing) Ibérique Dressage hat. The hats appear to follow men's protocol (bow, badge on left side) and the ones today are unisex.

Hat "Cañero" (these are unisex and also don't have bows)

http://www.sellerie-iberique.com/catalog/iberian-rider/169-hat-canero-wool-felt-artesania-pons.html

http://www.oliverhats.com/en/ref-2062-canero-lana-celeste/