French Hats and makers.

[Purplesage]

For some reason all the French hats I own are black as well. Maybe the French were big on black hats! I did sell a Mossant that was grey a while back to another lounger but that was the exception.

 

[Purplesage]

Baron - I don't think I've seen any French hats with a bound edge. Maybe they weren't as popular in France! Espéraza and Brosson are French hat makers that are new to me.

 

[ManofKent]

Purplesage - like the British, black was (and still is) the most common colour for hats.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Except for that Mossant I posted earlier!

I've seen a few, but not nearly so prevalent as in the US. This is also true of other European hats, in my experience.

Baron - I don't think I've seen any French hats with a bound edge. Maybe they weren't as popular in France! Espéraza and Brosson are French hat makers that are new to me.

 

[mayserwegener]

I have a good number of old (1930s and back) German and Austrian hats that are not black (although black is most popular like US or UK). The US was not ahead regarding color variety (also finish) compared to Continental Euro makers. For example you will not see this hat (color + finish) being made by a US (or English) hat company of that time period (I have many others).

1930s Hückel Superior Crystall Velour

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Don't get me wrong, I've seen lots of french hats that weren't black; I just don't seem to have bought any. Bellytank/Martin had some astonishing ones, IIRC.

 

[mayserwegener]

I have read the same about German / Austrian hats. It mostly comes from German posters that are not focused on hats. Sure you see a ton of black hats but that was also the case in US. When comes to very unique colors and finishes the US was not the leader. Robert also has a large collection of old French hats.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

So why all the black hats on the European market do you think? Just the ones that survived, that were kept for best/Sunday? Treks through French flea markets and vintage shops will turn up hundreds of black hats, but only a few coloured ones. Similar trips in American vintage outlets will turn up more brown hats than anything else.

 

[frenchgentleman]

I'm not sure black hats were so prevalent in France back in the days. All I can say is that my grandfather had two hats (Flechet) from around 1943, the first in navy blue, and the second in a taupe/gray color. Moreover, when you watch the films by Jean-Pierre Melville, you do not see much black hats.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Don't get me wrong: I agree! I just don't find them for sale (admittedly my French vintage shopping is probably more limited than yours, but not totally insignificant). It's a bit like British belted back jackets that seem to have been quite popular but are rarely seen on the market. I'm interested quite a bit about why some things survived to today but other equally popular stuff didn't make it.

 

[mayserwegener]

I come across a wide variety of colors with old German / Austrian Velours. Most are black but I come across colors that I have not seen from US makers. When it comes to smooth finishes (mostly Homburgs) I usually only see basic colors (browns & grays) but most are black. It is possible they were worn less so they survived. I know some of the hats I found were only worn on a wedding day or for Sunday church. I just do not buy into the US being more open to color variety and finishes (IMO it was the opposite, similar to UK norms).

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I forgot this one, also from the archive. Aux Galeries Lafayette. A very high end fedora with a rather nice and interesting bow treatment.

 

[ManofKent]

That's a lovely piece Baron.

 

[frenchgentleman]

Don't get me wrong: I agree! I just don't find them for sale (admittedly my French vintage shopping is probably more limited than yours, but not totally insignificant). It's a bit like British belted back jackets that seem to have been quite popular but are rarely seen on the market. I'm interested quite a bit about why some things survived to today but other equally popular stuff didn't make it.

I must admit that when I go to "general" thrift stores here in Paris, most of the fedoras I see are black. It depends however, because some of these stores are more specialized than others, and in these we tend to see more colorful hats. And, I keep in mind that not every item we can find there are French.

As you say, maybe black hats were worn more rarely or for more "special" occasions and that's why a greater number of them have survived ... That would be interesting to know.

 

[frenchgentleman]

I have noticed that on a number of vintage hats in France, the monograms are similar to the ones in your photo, small letters attached to the sweatband like a staple. I have never found anything about them, and I don't know if we can find them nowadays nor how to call this kind of marking.

 

[RJR]

I'd guess that they are the initials of the owner.

 

[ManofKent]

I think the initials were quite common across the hat wearing world - I've bought German and English hats that had them.

 

[frenchgentleman]

Yes, I understand that initials were common, I wasn't clear in my question.
What I meant is "Do you know where I could find such initials nowadays in order to mark my hats?" From the few I have seen in older hats, there is no manufacturer name on them, so it is difficult to know where to search. I know I could have my initials gold stamped on the sweatband but I much prefer the removable initials method.

 

[mayserwegener]

Yes, I understand that initials were common, I wasn't clear in my question.
What I meant is "Do you know where I could find such initials nowadays in order to mark my hats?" From the few I have seen in older hats, there is no manufacturer name on them, so it is difficult to know where to search. I know I could have my initials gold stamped on the sweatband but I much prefer the removable initials method.

Stetson Europe still has them but they have the brand name on them. I am not aware of any other source. I see them come up for auction on German eBay occasionally. Also some old Euro hat shops still have them in stock.

 

[TheDane]

There used to be a hobby-shop here in CPH, that stored all kinds of weird surplus stuff for use in hobby-projects. They had several shoe-boxes filled with those monogram letters. I never liked them for hat-use, so I never bought any. Unfortunately the shop closed half a year ago, when the owners got pensioned [huh]