Formal Wear Primer

[Burma Schave]

And now for the debut of my midnight blue DB Shawl collar from the 1930s

Very nice, but in fact it's from the late '40s to early '50s.

 

[vintage.vendeuse]

Date on this black wool tuxedo, please

Good day, gentlemen!
My newest acquisition is this handsome tuxedo in black wool. The collar is ribbed like grosgrain ribbon from hats, is there a particular name for this? There are no labels whatsoever, not even a union label. The only inner pocket is hidden along the lining seam. As you can see, the jacket is skeleton lined, no back vent, the shoulders are only lightly padded, and the waist does have nice definition. Hong Kong finished seams.
The trousers have no belt loops, just suspender buttons. There is a Talon zip with top button closure. Double pleats on each side of the zip, diamond gusseted crotch.
Trousers: 36" waist, 14.5" rise, 33" inseam, cuff width 9.75"
Jacket: 42" chest, center back length 30", sleeve 26"
Approximate US size 38L
It's in awesome condition, though it is a lint magnet!
So... since I'm trying to get the hang of correctly dating menswear... I'm guessing 1940s?

 

[Rabbit]

The collar is ribbed like grosgrain ribbon from hats, is there a particular name for this?

These are very nice dinner clothes, Donna, just the way they should be. The facings of the lapel on dinner clothes can be either grosgrain or satin, and that's what it's called, too. There's no special name for it. In passing I'll note that satin is a weave, but I guess you knew that.
I suspect the facings are usually if not always made of silk (woven in either grosgrain or satin), so in that case the one difference to hat ribbons would be that the latter are typically a mixture of organic rayon and cotton. I'm not entirely sure if the jacket lapels are silk grosgrain, though. It could be the very same mixture as used for most pre-1960s hat ribbons, after all.

A total absence of labels hints toward a bespoke garment, made without labels at the request of the customer. I don't think RTW labels or departments stores would have sold their products without any branding, but who knows.

Based on the buttoning position (higher than what became fashionable by the mid 40s), the way the shoulder appear to be padded (well padded, but not overly so) and the liner material, I guess this one could be from the late 30s/ early 40s. Of course, bespoke garments were sometimes made to earlier styles, so it could be as late as late 40s.

 

[vintage.vendeuse]

Thank you very much, Rabbit. As always, you've been an excellent educator!

 

[BR Gordon]

I would like to wear white tie to a formal ball, but I'm concerned that it will look too much like a costume. This will be a function where the majority will be in black tie, with some dark suits, and maybe a white tie or two.

Has anyone worn white tie and what are your thoughts?

 

[Big Man]

OK, so the photo is a little crappy, but this is what my wife, myself, my son, and daughter-in-law were wearing tonight when we went out for dinner and drinks.

 

[Fastuni]

@BR Gordon

As long as you are certain that several others will be wearing white tie, I think it´s ok.
But black tie would probably be the safer bet.

@Big Man

Nice. You always seem to find a good occasion for wearing a tux.

 

[Burma Schave]

The facings of the lapel on dinner clothes can be grosgrain or satin...

They can also be barathea silk, which is more commonly found on non-American evening jackets and tailcoats.

 

[Lensmaster]

OK, so the photo is a little crappy, but this is what my wife, myself, my son, and daughter-in-law were wearing tonight when we went out for dinner and drinks.

So many people say they would buy a tuxedo but say "I don't know when I would wear it." You are the perfect example of my response "make a reason."

 

[Big Man]

So many people say they would buy a tuxedo but say "I don't know when I would wear it." You are the perfect example of my response "make a reason."

Exactly! We had an absolute blast getting all dressed up and going out. And, everyone we met complemented us on how good we looked. Were we "over dressed"? Well, a dinner jacket wasn't required, but it certainly wasn't out of place. Had we been eating at a fast food place or a steak house, then yes, we would have been over dressed. But for where we were, it was just right for our own party.

It really is like you said, you do need to "make a reason" to go out like this. And you don't have to break the bank to do it either. Life is too short to eat bologna sandwiches every meal.

 

[Big Man]

This past week the family went to Folly Beach, SC for a vacation. One night we went out to eat in Charleston at High Cotton. It was a nice occasion to dress up a bit and enjoy the evening. My son and I both had on our white dinner jackets, and my wife, daughter-in-law, daughter and granddaughter all had on their nice dresses. Several people stopped by our table to ask "what's the special occasion?" My reply was, "it's Tuesday night." Almost without exception, everyone would say something to the effect that it was nice to see people dress so nicely to go out.

 

[dh66]

Again, Perfect!
I love a shawl collar white dinner jacket. To me the are the epitome of classic.

 

[Big Man]

Again, Perfect!
I love a shawl collar white dinner jacket. To me the are the epitome of classic.

Thanks.

 

[Quetzal]

I've always loved a wide shawl with a generous roll. Speaking of shawl collars, were they ever faced with silk in the Golden Era? Many Peaked White Dinner Coats were faille-faced.

-Quetzal

 

[Claudio]

well done - you all look amazing! I hope you had a great time

 

[Big Man]

well done - you all look amazing! I hope you had a great time

Thank you. We all had a blast. I had a steak as big as a '57 Dodge hub cap and enough Jamisons to fill a silo. After we ate, we listened to some really good jazz music. It was a grand time, for sure.

 

[Luftwaffles]

A closer look at my formal getup
Shirt studs, cufflinks, and Arrow shirt are from the 30s.




Watch is a modern Bulova.


Wide trousers.


To further characterize the informal nature of this midnight blue DJ, I decided to add striped cotton socks instead of more traditional silk hose.


The jacket itself.

 

[Papperskatt]

Nice. I'm not a fan of that particular bow, but really like your midnight blue shawl collar dinner jacket. How often do you find an occasion to wear it?

 

[Luftwaffles]

Any time I go out somewhere really nice, say, the Melting Pot or something of similar prestige.

 

[dh66]

Very sharp Luftwaffles. Exceptional jacket!