Footwear to go with our jackets

[Ayeteael]

I used to shy away from suede bc I mistakenly believed I had to baby it, but now I’m all in. It doesn’t develop character like traditional leather, but it’s incredibly low maintenance and so comfortable. No polishing required, ever. Just a little brushing and occasional waterproofing spray.

 

[Harris HTM]

but easily 2-3 times the price (WL´s are very good value for Money, but if you want Horween leather, they upcharge you)

I agree - except for the price. I own 3 pairs of WL's, the one of them made from horween cxl. I just checked my old emails (september 2016):
107F field boot
10 eyelet leg height
Horween leather - No.8 Chromexcel
Full Vibram commando rubber sole
Total cost incl. postage to the NL: 216,9 pounds.
I guess now the prices are higher but probably more near 1.50 times the Aero price.

 

[Harris HTM]

I used to shy away from suede bc I mistakenly believed I had to baby it, but now I’m all in. It doesn’t develop character like traditional leather, but it’s incredibly low maintenance and so comfortable. No polishing required, ever. Just a little brushing and occasional waterproofing spray.
View attachment 275600

Absolutely. I was eyeing the Alden Indy in snuff suede but Alden's are extremely expensive in the EU. I found, however, a pair of Crockett and Jones chukka's in snuff suede with a big discount (sometimes being small and wearing a small size in a country of big fella's is an advantage) and I'm really enjoying them.

 

[Ayeteael]

Absolutely. I was eyeing the Alden Indy in snuff suede but Alden's are extremely expensive in the EU. I found, however, a pair of Crockett and Jones chukka's in snuff suede with a big discount (sometimes being small and wearing a small size in a country of big fella's is an advantage) and I'm really enjoying them.

That's awesome. I've had the inverse experience. I long wanted a pair of C&J Marlows and Conistons, but there are few stockists in the states (unless you want RL branded ones) and sizing is tricky. Alden is a worthy American cousin to the fine Northampton makers.

 

[Harris HTM]

That's awesome. I've had the inverse experience. I long wanted a pair of C&J Marlows and Conistons, but there are few stockists in the states (unless you want RL branded ones) and sizing is tricky. Alden is a worthy American cousin to the fine Northampton makers.

Yes I know, I own 3 pairs of them in Shell Cordovan, I got one from Alden Madison while at NYC and the rest two I got them a couple of years ago when the prices were more reasonable. One of the reasons that US shoes are so expensive here is the reaction of the EU to the "trade war": the US imposed extra import duties to many EU products (so the US products will be more attractive to the US consumers); EU responded by doing the same to a couple of products, including leather shoes with leather soles (go figure why...).

 

[Ayeteael]

Yes I know, I own 3 pairs of them in Shell Cordovan, I got one from Alden Madison while at NYC and the rest two I got them a couple of years ago when the prices were more reasonable. One of the reasons that US shoes are so expensive here is the reaction of the EU to the "trade war": the US imposed extra import duties to many EU products (so the US products will be more attractive to the US consumers); EU responded by doing the same to a couple of products, including leather shoes with leather soles (go figure why...).

Tit for tat trade wars are asinine and lead to mutual destruction. It's insane how Shell Corodovan prices skyrocketed within the past few years. The Alden rare shell game/pricing on the second-hand market is even crazier. I've actually got a pair of shell on order from Alden Madison. They're great to work with.

 

[Edward]

Edward, not sure I can add much to your as always very thorough analysis. As for the term "Monkey Boot", the explanation I was given was purely that the sole was so "non-slippery" that you can actually climb the trees like a monkey...

That wold make sense - Grafters with the original sole:

I agree - except for the price. I own 3 pairs of WL's, the one of them made from horween cxl. I just checked my old emails (september 2016):
107F field boot
10 eyelet leg height
Horween leather - No.8 Chromexcel
Full Vibram commando rubber sole
Total cost incl. postage to the NL: 216,9 pounds.
I guess now the prices are higher but probably more near 1.50 times the Aero price.

I've not bought any recently, but when I last looked WLs and the Aeros were around the same price, like for like. Don't know who in Northampton makes the Aero boots now; pre-Jarrow, they had a run of boots make by WL, but they didn't carry them for very long.

It's interesting that most folks who've had wear issues with the Aeros it was the leather sole - quite likely why they brought out the Dainite as those are known for hard wear. I like too that they have a genuine period authenticity. I'm also not particularly a fan of commando soles on my boots (except, oddly, on a nice country brogue).

Absolutely. I was eyeing the Alden Indy in snuff suede but Alden's are extremely expensive in the EU. I found, however, a pair of Crockett and Jones chukka's in snuff suede with a big discount (sometimes being small and wearing a small size in a country of big fella's is an advantage) and I'm really enjoying them.

I've long promised myself a pair of Alden Indys, but could never bring myself to spend £400 o a pair of boots that I know sell in the US for £250. One day, when the pound isn't so weak, I'll go to the US again and buy a pair there. For now I do have a pair of the Wested copy, which are surprisingly nice for the money. Less 'hefty' than my Iron Rangers, but dressier and very nice to wear. Certainly sturdy enough given heavy wear, even if just round town - I've never gone through the Amazon or India in mine, so....

 

[Harris HTM]

Tit for tat trade wars are asinine and lead to mutual destruction. It's insane how Shell Corodovan prices skyrocketed within the past few years. The Alden rare shell game/pricing on the second-hand market is even crazier. I've actually got a pair of shell on order from Alden Madison. They're great to work with.

And ofcourse it is always the customer and the retailer that has to pay the price... Which model did you order?

 

[Ayeteael]

NST Tanker boots in Color 8 with commando soles.

 

[Harris HTM]

NST Tanker boots in Color 8 with commando soles.

nice!

 

[Tom71]

I agree - except for the price. I own 3 pairs of WL's, the one of them made from horween cxl. I just checked my old emails (september 2016):
107F field boot
10 eyelet leg height
Horween leather - No.8 Chromexcel
Full Vibram commando rubber sole
Total cost incl. postage to the NL: 216,9 pounds.
I guess now the prices are higher but probably more near 1.50 times the Aero price.

I stand corrected.

Base Price of WL is great. Base-leather not so much. I was really disappointed with my first order, so I enquired about special leather. I don´t really remember the discussion, only that I did not follow through on that route.

Full disclosure: Viberg and Dundas are not outrageously pricey per se but only so due to the import taxes.

 

[Jin431]

Good colour match.



Nice. It amuses me how the term monkey-boot has really stuck from the originals and onwards, yet I cannot for the life of me find an explanation for the name anywhere.... maybe it was to do with the mix of close-fit and very grippy sole design, thus giving the agilitiy of monkey feet? For years I thought it was due to the characteristic 'M' stitched on the sides of the dominant brand in the UK, but seeing pictures of period originals that seems to have been a design choice of that brand alone, not something original to the Czech boot. Their origin is a matter of dispute - not everyone buys the "WW2 Czechoslovakian army" story owing to the shift from producing Czechoslovakian-design military equipment to German-designs, though it does at least seem that Czechslovakia was indeed the source origin of the boots, at least those that made it to the UK. Over here, there were very much a sixties Mod-into-Skinhead thing, worn by punks in the late seventies and then skinheads again in the eighties. What intrigues me is how the monkey boot then travelled the Atlantic to the punk and hardcore scenes of the 80s and skate kids in the 90s; the lace-to-toe design there of course having a long pedigree with designs by Chippewa and such that - as I understand it - go back to the thirties at least.

I have a pair of CATs I got on sale years ago in a lace to toe design, and I've come to really enjoy it. I'm tempted by a pair of the 'original' Grafters monkey boots (still made in the same factory, still only GBP35) for walking the dog in the wet (those grippy, tractor-style soles....). The Chippewa lace to toe boots look amazing, though the dressier sole option from ModShoes also appeals for a dressier style for the office....

Good blog, btw, on the fashion evolution of the monkey boot from a British perspective here, even if it doesn't have much to say about their use on the UK 70s punk scene (a lot of things now thought of as skinhead overlapped with punk - boots and Harrington jackets especially): https://creaseslikeknives.wordpress.com/2017/12/26/do-the-monkey-eastern-bloc-boots-for-east-end-kids/#:~:text=In Poland, people colloquially called,they were originally made for”.&text=Alan from London, who was,Grafters monkey boots look today.



Very nice.




Fair analysis. I have the same, except mine are in brown, and leather soled. As a general rule, I find Dainite soles are a bit more hard-wearing than the leather, though with most leather soled shoes I fairly quickly have my cobbler add a rubber over-sole, just a thin, stick-on layer, to prevent excess wear. The quality comparison to the RedWings is fair. I have similar boots from William Lennon and Sanders, and RedWing Iron Rangers. The RWs are comparable quality to the Aeros, though I would say that the Aero is more of a dressier boot. I wouldn't be afraid of getting it mucky, but if I was taking the dog out for a Winter walk in the park, I reach for the RedWings rather than the Aeros. The Aeros are cracking for about town and the office; if you want a slightly more casual option, go for the Jarrow boots. The best way to put it, I think, is that whereas the RWs & the Jarrows are the sorts of boot you might wear to go and work in the factory, the Town boot is perhaps more what you'd expect the foreman to wear overseeing the floor. (That said, the Jarrows are a touch more refined than the IRs, more like RW's gentleman traveller or the Alden Indy boot in that sense.)

The Aero Town boots I have also compare favourably to my Sanders and William Lennon. THe WLs have the advantage of customisation (mine are based on their B9 ww1 Tommy boot, but in shiny black leather with a triple thickness sole, really solid), but they can take some time; the Aero is a great to-go boot, immediately ready. I'm in the process of clearing out a lot of shoes, under the Direction of a Higher Power (the wife). I did manage to amass seventy odd pairs (apart form a few hidden in the office) over the years, so now it's time to cut that way back, keep only the really good stuff, and then build up again with stuff I'll wear and less doubling. On the 'buy' list is definitely a pair of Jarrow boots in cordovan. The Jarrows are a touch chunkier by design. The really nice thing about them - knowing someone who has worn a pair long term - is how they mould to the foot. The basic shape doesn't look that special in the photos (they're actually instantly much nicer in person), but the way they evolve and develop that lovely, vintage-style heel shape and so on is very nice indeed.

I'm also always on the lookout for Aero doing a pair of nice, American-style engineer boots. Based on my experience with owning the town boots and having handled the Jarrows, I am of the opinion that Aero could produce something very nice that could match Wesco levels if specc'ed right. Course, Aero know whether they have a market for that, but I have my fingers crossed...

Don't know how accurate it is but they said linemen used similar lace to toe boots to climb electrical poles, thus the term monkey boots? Anyways that's interesting history how different groups of people came to enjoy this particular style of footwear. I see the appeal to it though as it is very easy wearing and not too difficult to dress up or down. I'm sure it can also take abuse by the elements. The Chippewa lace to toe boots look cool, I'm waiting for the indigo version to be put out again.

Thanks for the interesting read!

 

[Ayeteael]

I stand corrected.

Base Price of WL is great. Base-leather not so much. I was really disappointed with my first order, so I enquired about special leather. I don´t really remember the discussion, only that I did not follow through on that route.

Full disclosure: Viberg and Dundas are not outrageously pricey per se but only so due to the import taxes.

Vibergs are great and all but boy have they gotten expensive. They've captured the market for service boots and are insanely popular, but they charge an arm and a leg. Their newest shell makeups run $1450 and their finishing leaves much to be desired.

 

[Edward]

Don't know how accurate it is but they said linemen used similar lace to toe boots to climb electrical poles, thus the term monkey boots? Anyways that's interesting history how different groups of people came to enjoy this particular style of footwear. I see the appeal to it though as it is very easy wearing and not too difficult to dress up or down. I'm sure it can also take abuse by the elements. The Chippewa lace to toe boots look cool, I'm waiting for the indigo version to be put out again.

Thanks for the interesting read!

It's definitely intriguing to wonder how the Eastern European boot was inspired - did it take a nod from the US boots, or was it a case of two different cultures coming up with the same idea independently? I can see how when tool were more primitive and shaping a boot by hand required a lot more work (with inevitably more variation but not in a bespoke, top of the market way - the 'normal people' wear these' way), a lace-to toe approach could have allowed for a much better fitting boot without providing different widths and such. (Which could in part also be why it was popular in the East Bloc, where there typically was less money to go around).

 

[Turnip]

I wear those Aero boots for work, white collar meanwhile, Leather Soled Town Boots in dry weather, Dainite Town Boots in wet weather and Dainite Jarrow Marchers in cold conditions.

For working out on the floor I have never and will never wear some fancy fewhundred bucks boots to be honest, beside that most don’t have steel toes which are at least required for being permitted to be worn.

Still got my last steel toe boots I wore a total of ten years so far working blue collared in heavy steel construction industry. These were 65,- bucks a pair and will for sure outlive me, no new soles needed so far...

 

[Harris HTM]

For working out on the floor I have never and will never wear some fancy fewhundred bucks boots to be honest, beside that most don’t have steel toes which are at least required for being permitted to be worn.

Absolutely. In specific industries, as yours, your boots much meet specific perfomance levels, defined by Standards. Whenever I'm on project location or bridge inspections I also have to wear these specific safety boots.
By "workboots" I don't mean the safety boots for industry, but rather the bulkier type of boot (indy, william lennon, red wing, etc) that you can wear while working at your backyard as opposed to a dress boot (C&J, Edward Green, Carmina, etc).
For any type of manual labour that might cause any type of injury (to yourself or to your fancy boots haha) then I only use and strongly recommend safety boots of class S3 according to EN ISO 20345.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Legendary save.

I hope it worked.

 

[Jin431]

It's definitely intriguing to wonder how the Eastern European boot was inspired - did it take a nod from the US boots, or was it a case of two different cultures coming up with the same idea independently? I can see how when tool were more primitive and shaping a boot by hand required a lot more work (with inevitably more variation but not in a bespoke, top of the market way - the 'normal people' wear these' way), a lace-to toe approach could have allowed for a much better fitting boot without providing different widths and such. (Which could in part also be why it was popular in the East Bloc, where there typically was less money to go around).

Definitely interesting and I'm pleased it's making a comeback. I noticed how popular it is especially in the Asian market. I have a black one in order and hope to receive it by end of the month.

 

[lina]

^^Flat sole lace to toe boots in the US (like the Chippewas) were generally considered roofers’ boots. I think linemen would normally have had heels. Not sure if the roofing is somehow related to the “monkey” designation for the boots, but maybe. Names are tricky though and often really hard to trace. Even when something seems like a reasonable explanation it may well be wrong.

 

[Jin431]

^^ the heels make sense so one don't slip off the electrical pole. Never tried a roofer boot before but it's cool to me. Yep, I hear you seems like its just whatever sticks.